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WWwter  Family  Library  of  Veterinary  Medteine 

Cummings  School  of  Veterinary  Medidne  m 

Tufts  University 

200  Westt)oro  Road 

MQrtHQiata.MA01«e 


HORSE  SENSE. 


A  PRACTICAL  TREATISE 


HORSE  BREEDING— SELECTION  OF  STALLIONS  AND   BROOD  MARES— CARE 
AND  HANDLING  OP  STALLIONS-CARE  OP  BROOD  MxVRES-DIFPERENT 
TYPES  OF  HORSES  AND  THEIR  USES-PROPER  ROAD  TO  IMPROVE- 
MENT-GOVERNMENT    OWNERSHIP     OF     STALLIONS-CARE 
AND  FEEDING  OF  HORSES  TO  KEEP  THEM  WELL  -NAT- 
URAL   LAWS    GOVERNING    THE     ACTION    OF    THE 
HORSE-EARLY  EDUCATION  -CORRECTING  BAD 
HABITS-GOOD    AND    BAD    SHOEING-  MIS- 
CELLANEOUS RECIPES  -VETERINARY 
QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWERS. 
ETC.,  ETC.,  ETC. 


BY  J.  C.  CURRYER,  M.  D. 


Fourder  of  the  "Mianesota  Horseman";  Author  of  the  "Stallion  Register";  Assistant  Super- 

intendcnt  of  Minnesota  Farmer's  Institutes;  Member  of  the  Minnesota  State 

Board  of  Agriculture;  Superintendent  of  the  Horse  Department 

of  the  Minnesota  State  Fair,  Etc, 


MINNEAPOLIS,   MINN. 
FARM,  STOCK  Si  HOME  COMPANY. 


COPYKIGHT,    1900,   BY  THE 

FARM,  STOCK  &  HOME  COMPANY. 


ODE  TO  THE  HORSE. 

"Who  does  not  love  a  noble  horse, 

So  trusty  and  so  kind? 
He   serves  his   master  part   in   fear 

And  love  and  faith  combined. 

He  is  not  only  man's  best  friend, 

But  man's  best  servant,  too: 
Whether  treated  good,  or  treated  ill, 

He  is  faithful,  kind  and  true. 

He  plows  the  ground  and  plants  the  grain, 

He  reaps  and  rakes  and  mows; 
And  draws  the  heavy  harvest  wain 

From  morn  till  evening's  close. 

He  treads  the  course  with  lightning  speed, 

Though  often  much  abused: 
And  strains  each  nerve  with  powerful  will, 

That  man  may  be  amused. 

Then  let  the  hand  that  guides  the-  rein 

Be  ever  kind  and  true: 
For  the  horse  is  God's  creation.  n\>\. 

As  much  as  I  or  you." 

— Mrs.  S.  E.  Currver,  wife  of  the  author. 


PREFACE. 


It  is  now  quite  a  number  of  years  since  my  friend,  Mr.  Woodworth, 
made  a  suggestion  that  1  have  since  tried  to  follow.  He  said  to  me 
(after  seeing  the  manner  in  which  I  handled  a  wild  and  nervous  horse): 
"if  you  will  note  down  from  day  to  day  what  your  experience  justifies, 
in  a  few  years  you  will  be  able  to  give  us  a  book  on  the  horse  that  will 
be  just  what  we  need."  I  hope  this  friend  is  still  living,  and  if  he  will 
write  me  his  criticism  of  the  work,  it  will  be  taken  as  a  special  favor. 

This  book  has  been  written  at  the  suggestion  of  many  strong  per- 
sonal friends,  and  at  the  earnest  solicitation  of  hundreds  of  others  by 
letter. 

It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  work  has  been  done  at  odd  mo- 
ments and  after  the  manner  suggested  above,  consequently  some  may 
criticise  it  for  the  many  repetitions  or  too  much  stress  being  laid  on 
principles,  natural  laws  and  unerring  -methods,  but  it  is  the  author's 
firm  conviction  that  these  very  things  will  serve  as  monuments  to  his 
memory,  with  those  who  will  read  the  book  and  comply  with  its  sug- 
gestions. 

For  the  want  of  a  better  name  (at  the  suggestion  of  a  personal 
friend),  it  is  christened  HORSE  SENSE,  and  it  is  the  most  sincere 
desire  of  the  author  that  the  work  or  book  fully  justifies  so  good  a  name. 

The  questions  and  answers  in  the  veterinary  department  are  designed 
to  meet  the  wants  of  many  who  are  not  favored  with  having  the  veter- 
inary surgeon  at  easy  call,  but  it  should  be  understood  that  where  com- 
petent veterinary  skill  can  be  had,  the  seriously  sick  horse  should  be 
in  his  hands. 

A  grateful  acknowledgement  is  hereby  offered  to  those  who  have 
assisted,  encouraged  and  sustained  the  author  in  what  they  are  pleased 
to  call  a  commendable  labor  for  mankind,  our  horses  and  the  country 
generally. 

J.  C  CURRYER. 


AUTOBIOGRAPHY. 


It  was  not  my  good  fortune  to  have  been  born  in  a  palace,  nor  with 
a  "gold  spoon  in  my  mouth,"  but  in  a  humble  log  cabin  on  a  farm  in  the 
forest,  one  mile  south  of  Palestine,  Shelby  county,  Ohio,  November  7th, 
1837.  My  baby  cradle  was  a  sugar  (sap)  trough,  and  my  advantages 
were  such  as  nature  furnishes  in  the  timber.  School  sessions  were  of 
short  duration  and  the  teachers  of  the  "beach-gad"  order.  My  parental 
grand  parents  emigrated  from  near  White  Hall,  Baltimore  county,  Mary- 
land, about  1810,  to  Ohio,  and  my  maternal  grand  parents  came  from 
Vermont.  My  association  with  and  attachment  for  the  horse,  began 
very  early  in  life.  Father  being  a  stock  dealer  in  horses,  cattle,  sheep 
and  hogs,  I  frequently  accompanied  him  in  gathering  and  taking  his" 
purchases  to  market. 

I  remained  upon  the  farm  until  twenty-five  years  of  age,  when  I  stud- 
ied medicine  and  dentistry  ai-id  practiced  the  latter  for  nearly  a  quarter 
of  a  century,  but  during  all  the  time,  was  never  without  from  one,  to 
Over  one  hundred  head  of  horses.  With  the  exception  of  about  five 
years  of  all  time,  I  have  been  closely  connected  with  the  farm,  in  breed- 
ing horses,  cattle  and  hogs,  but  principally  the  first,  as  my  interest  nat- 
urally centered  on  the  horse. 

During  1887  I  was  prevailed  upon  to  aid  in  the  establishment  of  Min- 
nesota Farmers'  Institutes,  with  which  I  have  been  connected  ever  since. 
My  first  work  in  this  respect  was  in  representing  the  horse  interests  on 
the  institute  platform,  in  relation  to  breeding  and  educating  the  horse. 
And  as  our  work  was  new  to  the  people,  more  or  less  prejudice  ex- 
isted against  it.  I  volunteerd  to  handle  any  unbroken  horse  during  the 
noon  hour  to  show  the  intelligence  of  the  horse  and  how  much  could 
be  taught  him  in  one  hour.  Out  of  one  hundred  and  fifty-three  horses 
handled  in  this  way,  but  one  was  made  warm  enough  to  sweat.  The 
streets  during  these  exhibitions  were  generally  crowded  with  the  people 
of  the  town  and  country  to  see  what  they  pleased  to  term  "the  fun,"  but 
they  were  often  disappointed  in  this  respect,  as  it  was  the  invariable  rule 
to  first  gain  the  confidence  of  the  horse,  and  the  balance  was  so  easy 
that  there  was  but  little  or  no  excitement  about  it. 

Much  of  my  life  lias  been  spent  in  studying  breeding  questions  and 
the  means,  and  especially  the  methods  of  controling  our  horses  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  natural  laws  governing  their  actions,  with  a  view  of 
aiding  owners  and  handlers  in  getting  along  with  their  horses  with  the 
least  trouble  and  punishment,  as  well  as  to  relieve  the  faithful  horse  of 
much  suffering  from  abuse. 


INTRODUCTION. 


Horse  Sense  is  the  result  of  nearly  a  lifetime's  association  with  the 
horse,  in  observing  his  character,  the  laws  of  reproduction,  adaptation  of 
his  conformation  and  nerve  force  for  die  varied  uses  required  and  the 
natural  laws  that  govern  all  his  actions. 

The  character  of  horses,  like  that  of  men,  is  as  varied  as  ancestral 
endowment  and  environment  can  make  their  impressions  on  the  organi- 
zation. That  the  horse  is  an  intelligent  animal  there  can  certainly  be 
no  doubt  in  the  present  development  and  training  of  the  animal.  That 
he  is  also  endowed  with  propensities  (it  not  sentiments)  very  similar  to 
those  of  man,  there  is  ample  proof  sufBcient  to  satisfy  the  most  incredu- 
lous. The  evolution  of  ihe  horse  demonstrates  that  by  a  strict  conformity 
to  the  laws  of  reproduction — "like  begetting  like  or  the  likeness  of  some 
ancestor" — that  we  are  able  to  produce  the  varied  types  of  horses  for 
the  specific  uses  for  which  each  is  by  nature  best  adapted. 

While  the  character  and  breeding  of  horses  is  of  great  importance, 
that  of  a  useful  education  is  ol  equal,  if  not  more,  value.  Has  it  ever 
occurred  to  the  reader  that  every  duty,  service,  performance  and  require- 
ment of  the  horse  for  our  benefit,  is  the  result  of  his  education?  Like 
his  owner  or  handler,  he  must  first  be  shown,  taught,  and  have  explained 
in  an  intelligent  manner,  how  to  perform  the  required  duties,  before  he 
can  reasonably  be  expected  to  execute  them  well.  He  must  not  only 
be  taught  what  to  do,  but  how  to  do  it,  and  we  all  know  from  personal 
experience,  that  we  often  have  to  practice  a  long  time  after  we  know 
what  to  do,  before  we  can  perform  the  duty  well.  Then,  should  we 
not  have  great  patience  with  the  horse  in  his  education.  When  we  stop 
to  consider  that  the  horse  is  a  mute  (not  able  to  talk),  and  that  his 
services  require  intelligence  and  education  to  be  able  to  do  them  well, 
does  not  the  situation  in  its  broad  sense  appeal  to  the  sympathy  and 
superior  ability  of  man.  to  educate  this  most  valuable  servant  of  hu- 
manity in  the  best  possible  manner? 

Horse  Sense  is  intended  to  appeal  to  the  good  "common  sense"  of 
men  in  all  they  have  to  do  with  horses,  and  especially  in  relation  to  the 
"natural  laws"  which  govern  all  the  actions  of  horses.  Unless  we  com- 
prehend these  laws  and  comply  with  them,  we  will  make  a  dismal  failure 
of  handling  horses.  Kindness,  patience,  perseverance,  consistency  of 
method,  practical  applicatiow  of  means  of  control,  and  a  close  observ- 
ance of  the  nature  of  the  horse  to  be  dealt  with,  will  produce  surprising 
results.     But  if  wc  opperate  in  opposition  to  these   natural   laws   and  we 


Vlll  INTRODUCTION. 

consider  the  horse  only  a  "brute"  to  be  yanked,  kicked  and  beaten,  at  the 
pleasure  or  passion  of  the  handler,  the  good  "common  sense"  of  any 
man  would  naturally  decide  that  the  results  would  be  equally  surprising 
in  an  opposite  direction,  viz.:  that  an  unreliable,  dangerous  and  pos- 
sibly viscious  animal  was  made  so  by  his  trainer,  instead  of  a  good, 
serviceable,  trusty,  faithful  and  reliable  horse.  One  of  two  things 
should  be  done  for  the  good  of  our  horses.  They  should  be  taught 
in  established  schools  for  their  education,  as  we  have  for  our  children's 
training,  or  everybody  who  expects  to  handle  horses  should  study  the 
horse;  study  his  character;  study  the  natural  laws  that  govern  his  ac- 
tions; work  in  conformity  with  these  laws  instead  of  against  them,  as 
when  we  put  a  halter  on  a  colt's  head  and  then  expect  to  pull  him  after 
us  without  resistance.  Everyone  who  ever  "broke"  a  colt  to  the  halter 
knows  what  the  colt  will  do  if  the  halter  is  pulled  upon.  He  knows 
he  will  go  backwards,  but  how  many  men  ever  stopped  and  candidly 
considered  what  made  him  pull  backwards'*  The  colt  thinks  he  has  got 
his  head  into  some  kind  of  a  trap  and  he  knows  but  one  way  out  of  it, 
and  that  is  to  go  backwards  and  pull  it  out.  This  lesson  alone  should 
be  sufificient  to  demonstrate  to  us  that  we  were  working  at  the  wrong 
end  of  the  colt — in  part  at  least — for  we  find  when  we  attach  something 
to  the  rear  end  of  his  body,  he  as  naturally  goes  forward.  Then  is  it 
not  good  "common  sense"  as  well  as  Horse  Sense,  to  operate  on  the 
rear  end  for  forward  movements  and  use  the  halter  for  direction?  The 
pivotal  point  of  the  horse's  action  is  the  center  of  his  body  in  opposite 
direction,  and  the  sooner  we  learn  this  and  always  keep  it  in  mind,  the 
better  we  will  get  along  with  our  horses. 

My  attention  to  the  capabilities  of  the  horse  in  an  educational  way, 
was  when  only  a  lad  of  ten  years,  with  a  strawberry  roan  mare  that  I 
used  for  driving  the  cows  to  and  from  pasture.  The  mare  soon  demon- 
strated that  she  had  an  interest  in  driving  these  cattle,  as  she  seemed 
to  watch  their  movements  very  closely  and  was  on  the  alert  for  any 
"breaks"  that  any  of  them  might  make.  She  would  stand  and  hold 
the  cattle  while  the  bars  were  being  let  down,  and  if  any  one  of  them 
offered  to  move  out  ot  the  way  she  was  right  after  them.  She  was 
always  rewarded  for  her  services  with  sugar,  which  she  soon  learned  to 
relish.  She  would  sidle  up  to  the  fence  for  me  to  mount  upon  her  bare 
back,  ard  she  soon  learned  to  stand  with  her  front  feet  upon  the  largest 
boulders  to  be  found,  and  some  wee  very  large  along  the  route. 

When  about  thirteen  years  of  age  I  accidentally  discovered  what  has 
since  proved  to  my  entire  satisfaction,  the  natural  laws  governing  the 
actions  of  our  horses,  and  it  is  surprising  that  it  has  not  been  well  es- 
tablished long  ago,  when  the  facts  are  so  apparent  to  every  handler 
and  trainer,  that  the  horse  always  acts  just  the  reverse  from  what  is 
generally  expected,  and,  notwithstanding  this,  almost  all  horsemen  still 
persist  in  working  along  the  same  old  lines,  in  opposition  to  this  natural 
law  and  then  wonder  why  horses  do  as  they  do. 

I  have  worked  many  years  in  farmers'  institutes  along  this  line,  and 
from  the  many  kind  greetings  and  the  hundreds  of  letters  received  com- 


INTKODrCTlON.  iX 

mending  n:y  efforts  and  constantly  urging  me  to  compile  my  work  of 
the  Minnesota  Horseman,  Farmers'  institute  annuals  and  such  other  mat- 
ter as  would  make  a  ready  reference  book,  is  what  has  stimulated  mc  in 
the  preparation  of  Horse  Sense,  with  the  sincere  hope  that  those  who 
will  study  its  pages  carefully  and  comply  with  the  "law,"  will  be  benefited 
many  times  its  cost. 

The  indulgence  of  the  reader  is  solicited  for  the  many  repetitions, 
crudeness  of  style,  plain,  simple,  method  and  idiosyncrasy  of  the  author, 
as  no  attempt  is  made  towards  a  scientific  classical  or  professional  pro- 
duction, but  a  work  of  preventions  rather  than  cures,  that  can  be  made 
beneficial  to  the  farmers  (who  raise  the  horses)  and  those  who  handle 
horses,  and  especially  for  the  comfort  that  may  be  rendered  the  noble 
horse  by  better  understanding  him.  ;(nd  thereby  giving  better  treatment 
to  man's  greatest  animal  servant— the  horse. 

J.  C  CURRYER. 


FORMER  HORSE-BREEDING  ESTABLISHMENT  OF  DR.  J.  C. 

CURRYER  &  SONS,  3).;  MILES  SOUTHEAST  OF 

LAICE  CRYSTAL,  MINN. 

This  beautiful  location  was  selected  many  years  ago  by  the  author 
and  his  devoted  wife,  as  a  fitting  place  for  the  enjoyment  of  farm  life, 
the  proper  environments  for  bringing  up  a  family  of  boys,  and  devoting 
our  future  years  to  stock  raising.  Groves  were  planted,  many  wells 
for  stock-water  sunk,  buildings  erected,  paddocks  and  pastures  arranged, 
and  the  growth  and  development  of  the  trees  and  stock  were  greatly 
enjoyed  up  to  the  financial  panic  of  1893,  when  the  horse  business  came 
to  a  "stand  still" — the  very  "bottom"  of  the  enterprise  "fell  out,"  a  dis- 
astrous business-house  fire,  and  other  embarrassments,  put  a  sudden 
check  to  many  of  our  cherished  ambitions.     But  while  the  depreciation 


MINNESOTA'S  (PAST)  HOME  OP  THE  WILKES, 


in  values  were  great,  the  losses  heavy,  the  disappointment  a  severe  blow, 
fondest  hopes  almost  faded,  nothing  apparently  "coming  our  way"  for  a 
long  time,  yet  at  last  a  "bright  star"  of  hope  is  now  seen  farther  north- 
ward, and  we  have  secured  what  will  serve  our  purpose  better,  where  the 
grasses  grow  more  luxuriantly,  running  water  and  plenty  of  it,  timber 
for  buildings  and  fencing  on  the  place,  and  located  just  half  way  be- 
tween the  two  great  cities  of  the  northwest,  with  the  advantage  of  two 
railroads. 

The  illustration  gives  the  reader  a  good  idea  of  the  cherished  old 
farm,  its  groves,  fields,  buildings,  wind-mills  and  stock,  where  we  so 
often  greeted  our  friends  and  greatly  enjoyed  life.  But  it  is  still  our  sin- 
cere desire  and  cherished  hope  that  we  may  in  the  future  as  in  the  past, 
welcome  our  friends  to  our  new  location  (near  Hinckley,  ]\Iinn.),  our 
fir^^'de  and  farm  table. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Scientific  Breeding — Special  Breeding  for  Uniformity  of  Conforma- 
tion— Laws  Controlling  Service  Stallions — Nature's  Law,  "Like 
Produces  Like,"  the  True  Principle — Horse  Breeding  and  Defi- 
nite Object — An  Ideal  Product  Should  be  Desired — Mental  and 
Physical  Characteristics — Defects  are  Transmitted — Adherance  to 
Type    I 

CHAPTER  n. 

Conformation  of  Legs — Deformities  of  Front  and  Hind  Legs — The 
Feet  and  Legs — Legs  of  Horses,  Right  and  Wrong — Rear  View 
of  Feet  and  Legs — Side  View  of  Hind  Quarters  and  Legs 5 

CHAPTER  in. 

Types  or  Horses — A  Typical  Arabian — English  Thoroughbred — War 
Horses  and  Famous  Chargers — The  Morgan  Horse — Potency  in 
Morgan  Blood — Green  Mountain  Morgan  2nd — Ideal  Light  Har- 
ness Horse — Security — Conquer  Star — American  Saddle  Horse — 
Saddle  Horse  and  Change  of  Gait — Black  Squirrel  2nd — General 
Purpose  Horse — All  Purpose  Stallion — All  Purpose  Brood  Mare 
— Rose  Chief — American  Carriage  Stallion — The  Carriage  Brood 
Mare — Comparison  of  Blocd  Lines — Coach  Horse  Types — 
French  Coach  Horse — American  Bred  Light  Road  Team — Pilot 
Boy  and  Amelia — American  Bred  Heavy  Carriage  Horses — 
American  Coach  or  Carriage  Team — The  Draft  Horse — Clydesdale 
Stallion — Crossing  of  Breeds— Clydesdale  Brood  Mare — Percher- 
on    Stallion — Gilbert    the    Winner — Percheron    Brood    Mare   and 

Colt    10 

CHAPTER  IV. 

Judging  Horses 32 

CHAPTER  V. 

Examining  Horses — Sound  Horses — Temporary  Unsoundness — At 
Rest  and  in  Motion— Watch  For  Habits — The  Horse's  Head — 
Discerning  Defects — To    Examine  the    Horse's   Body 36 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Examination  Fcr   Lameness— Find   Cause — Where   it  .A.fifects 39 


Xii  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Selecting  the  Stallion— Size  and  Form  for  Purpose  Required— Indi- 
viduality of  Type  Considered— Crossing  Jack  and  Mare— Cross- 
ing Thoroughbred  and  Jenny. 43 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Wintering  Stallions— Condition  for  Wintering— The  Feet— Exercise- 
Stallion  Barn  and  Lot — Harness  or  Saddle  Work — Winter  Food 
—Watering— Salt— Cleanliness— ^Management    45 

CHAPTER  IX. 
The  Stallion  in   Season— Regulating  Services— Feeding— Handling- 
Artificial  Impregnation   5° 

CHAPTER  X. 
Government  Ownership  of  Stallions— Breeders"   Associations 53 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Selection  and  Care  of  Brood  Alare— Conformation — Pedigree — In- 
Breeding— Haphazard  Breeding — The  Brood  Mare  and  Stallion 
—Time  to  Breed— Early  Grass — Examination  of  Womb— Trying 
the  Mare — Treatment  of  Mare  in  Foal — Food  For  Mare  in  Foal 
— Time  of   Foaling — Care   of  Young   Foal 54 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Hereditary  Traits  of  Horses — Plabi'.s    63 

CHAPTER  XIII. 
Horses   in   the   United   States— The    Number   and   Valuation   of— En- 
couragement to   the   Breeders    65 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Farmers  as  Horse  Breeders— The  Stallion  Half  the  Herd— Mixing 
Breeds— The   Farm   Horse — Draft  Horses  for  the   Farm — Power 

—Draft   Brood  Mare   66 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Intelligence  of  the  Horse— Education— ^vlemory— Sugar  for  the  Nerv- 
ous Horse— The  Horse  and  His  Instructor— Examples  of  Intelli- 
gence and  Thought    69 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Horse  Education — Horses  are  Naturally  Timid  and  Sensative — The 
Horse  a  Slave  to  Humanity— The  Horse  Considered  Only  a 
Brute — The  Horse  Naturally  Submissive— The  Horse  is  Endowed 
with  Intelligence  and  Passions— Useful  Every-day  Lessons  Rather 
Than  Tricks— Representative  Heads  of  Horses — Extent  of  the 
Horse's  Capacity  for  Learning — Fidelity  of  the  Horse  to  His 
Master— Remembrance  of  Wrongs— Right   Treatment— Underly- 


CONTENTS.  Xlll 

ing  Principles — To  Catcli  tiic  Young  Foal— Handling  the  Young 
Colt   74 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Horse  \'ocabulary   80 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 
Get  the  Confidence  of  Little  Colts 83 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Fisrt  Lessons  in  Harness — The  Old  Horse  Teacher — Harsh  Bits — 
The  Kindergarten — Driving— Early  Lessons — .\rrangement  of 
-Attachments  of   Colts    87 

CHAPTER   XX 

Home  Made  Cart — For  Driving  Colts  or  Unruly  Horses — For  Hand- 
ling the  Runaway  or  Kicker — For  Learning  to  Turn  Round 91 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

Controlling  Horses  Through  the  Mouth — Safety  Bridle — The  Bow- 
Bow-Line  Knot — Adjusting  Safety  Bridle— Don't  Drag  or  Saw 
the  Rope  Through  the  Horse's  Mouth— The  Yankee  Bridle — 
Single  or  Double — Teaching  Horse  to  Hold  Head  Low  to  be 
Bridled — Treating  Horse  with  Sore  Neck — The  Hard-Bitted 
Horse — Different  Forms  of  Rope  to  Head — Teaching  Colt  to 
Yield  up  His  Feet   93 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

Combinations  of  Three — Three  Lessons — Three  Tortures — Three 
Conditions  of  Feet — Three  Enemies  to  Feet — Three  Points  in 
Care — Three  Factors  in  Condition — Three  Points  in  Getting  the 
Good  Will — Three  Causes  of  Fear — Three  Safeguards — Unreliable 
Horses — To  Catch  the  Horse — Grooming  the  Horse — Standing 
When  Hitching  Up — Stand  After  Hitching — Nervous  After 
Hitched — After  a  Hard  Drive  102 

CHAPTER   XXIII. 

Use  and  Abuse  of  Over-head  Check — As  Nature  Made  Us — Grace 
and  Beauty  Spoiled — A  Lesson  in  Contrast — Applied  as  Punish- 
ment to  Criminals — Horses  Suffered — A  Sermon  to  Horse  Own- 
ers      105 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

A   Good   Mouth — Tender  Mouth — Tongue-Lolling — Crossing  Jaws- 
Effects  of  Bad  Mouths— Bridle  Bits— Carefully  Select  the   Bridle 
and  Horse — The  Teeth — Caps  of    Temporary       Teeth — Wearing       of 
Teeth    109 


XIV  CONTEXTS. 

CHAPTER   XXV. 

Fitting  Collar  to  Horse— Each  Horse  Should  Have  His  Collar — 
Large  Collars — Form  of  Collar — Adjustment  of  Hame-Tug — 
Soaking  Collars — Hame-Straps— Clean  Shoulders  and  Collar 114 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Natural  Foot  of  Horse — The  Frog  and  Sole  Protect  the  Foot — 
Ground  Surface  of  Good  Feet — Ground  Surface  of  Contracted 
Feet — Ground  Surface  and  Wall  of  Foundered  Foot — The  Colt's 
Feet    118 

CHAPTER  XXVn. 

Shoeing  and  its  Efifects  i^i 

CHAPTER  XXVni. 

Feeding  Horses— Variety  of  Food— Too  ]Much  Hay — Must  be  Fed 
with  Care — Rations  for  Horses  in  London — Feeding  Cavalry 
Horses — Mortality  from  all  Causes — Aluscle-Making  Food  and 
Exercise  for  Colts — Idleness  and  Fat — Ration  for  Weanling 
and  Older  Colt — Bran  and  Bran-Mashes 127 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Fattening  Horses  for  Market— Corn— Glauber  Salts— Oil  Meal — 
Floating  the  Teeth — Stuffing  Process — Feeding  Work  Horses — 
Water  Before  Feeding — Over-Feeding — Idle  Horses — An  Ex- 
periment— Economic  Feeding — Feeding  and  Health — Feeding 
Little  Colts — Grow  Frame-work  of  Colts — Weanling  Colts  and 
Water — Exercise  the  Colts — Weaning  Colts — Skim  Milk 131 

CHAPTER   XXX. 

Devices  for  Controlling  Horses — Education  in  the  Stall — The  Halter- 
Puller — A  Mere  String — Kicking  and  Pawing — The  Horse  Shack- 
eled  in  His  Stall — Backing  the  Horse  138 

CHAPTER  XXXL 

Controlling  Horse  by  His  Tail — Run-away  in  a  Circle — Poling  the 
Horse — Fastening  Tie-Strap  to  Tail — Tying  Halter-Strap  to  Tail 
— Making  Horse  Familiar  with  Objects — Shackeling — Tieing 
Legs    14^ 

CHAPTER  XXXII. 

Picketing    Horses — Controlling     Hind    Feet    in     Shoeing — Inducing 

Horse  to  Hold  Leg  Up — Position  in  Shoeing 153 

CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

Handling  Mature  Horses — Handling  by  the  Head — Stallion  Bridle — 
Manner  of  Adjusting— A  Good,  Cheap  Riding  Bridle— Handling 
Umbrella  on  Horseback 15& 


CONTENTS.  XV 

CIIAI'II'.R  XXXIV. 

Power  of   Man   Over   Horse — Laying   the    Horse    Down — Makinp   a 

Circingle  with  Rope — The  Horse  in  Tronble — In  Greater  Trouljle   164 
CHAPTER  XXXV. 

HancUing  by  the  Legs — Reins  to  Legs  Better  Than  to  Bits — Applied 
to  Kicker — Hitching  Kicker  to  Wagon — Driving  Kicker  Douljle 
— The  Vicious  Kicker — Kicking  Attachment  for  Single  or  Doul)le 
Harness— Halter  Attachment  for  Kicker,  Trotter,  Pacer  or  Run- 
away        1 73 

CHAPTER  XXXVI. 
Switcher   and    Rein-Catcher    185 

CHAPTER  XXXVII. 
T!ie  Balky  Horse— How  to  Treat  Him 188- 

CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

Mischief  in  the  Stomach — Too  Aluch  Water  After  Feeding — Water  in 
the  Field — Too  Much  Water  at  a  Time — Dieting  Horses — Rest 
When    Ailing — Drenching    Horses — The   Horse   and   Injection — 

Watch  the  Feet— The  Hay  Manger— Where  to  Feed  Grain 194. 

CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

'  Miscellaneous  Receipts — For  Colic — Flatulent  Colic — Diarrhoea — 
Scours — Scours  in  Young  Foal — Slavering — Expttlsion  of  Bots — 
Indigestion — Worms — Pin  Worms— Dry  Cough — Chronic  Cough 
— Bran-Mash — Cough  Mash — Sprains  and  Old  Swellings — 
Swelled  Legs — Foot-Sore  Horses — Fevered  Legs — Cracked  Heels 
— Removal  of  Warts — Body  Wash — Disenfectants  for  Wounds — 
Charcoal  Tar — Sugar  as  an  Antiseptic — Fence  Wire  Cuts — 
Scratches — Wash  for  Old  Sores — Wash  for  Mange — Grease  Heel 
— Thrush — For  Splint — Itching  Humor — Lice — Galls— Carriage- 
Top  Dressing — Kerosene  Emulsion  for  Harness — Old  Straps 
Made  Soft — Care  of  Harness   200 

CHAPTER  XL. 

Questions  and  Answers  at  Farmers'  Institutes — Questions  Answered  by 
the  Author — Hitching  Horse  by  Tail  in  Fly  Time — When  to 
Break  Colt — To  Harness  and  Drive  the  Colt — To  Handle  Vis- 
cious  and  Tricky  Horses — Why  Have  Horses  Bad  Legs? — Treat- 
ment for  Scours — Care  of  Colt's  Feet — Cutting  Frog  and  Sole- 
Rasping  Horn  of  Hoof — Spring  T.  vs.  Straight  Pasterns — Stalls 
Check-Rein  and  Blinders — Why  Use  Over-Head  Check  Tight? — 
Biting — Crowding  Keeper  in  the  Stall — Make  Horse  Hold  up 
H';'?-!— Preventing  "Bucking" — Teaching  to  Back — Tieing  Head 
and  T^il — The  Halter-Puller — Handling  the  "Broncho" — Calts  at 
Weenir.g  T^me— Colts  the  First  Winter— Wild  Hay  for  Horses— 


XVI  CONTEXTS. 

Ground  Barley— Water  when  Warm— Raising  Colts  at  a  Profit— 

A  Frightened  Horse   ^ 210 

CHAPTER    XLI. 

Questions  Answered  by  Dr.  M.  H.  Reynolds — Grain  Rations  for  a 
Working  Horse — For  an  Idle  Horse — Hay  for  Horses — Kick  on 
Hock  Cap — Colts  Dying  Soon  After  Birth — To  Kill  Lice  on 
Horses — Heaves — Cure  for  Poll-Evil — Colts  and  Lice — Oat 
Straw  for  Idle  Horses — Colic — Moon-Eyed  Horses — Is  Cob  Meal 
and  Oats  for  Horses — Millet  Hay  for  Work  Horses — Barley  for 
Colts — Barley  Straw  for  Horses — Should  Hay  or  Grain  be  Fed 
First? — Bleeding  Tumor  on  Foot  near  Fetlock — Sampers — Con- 
dition Powders — Watering  While  Warm — Ring-Bone  and  Spav- 
ins— Incipient  Spavin — Cooked  Food  for  Horses — Feeding  Work 
Horses — Paralysis — Collar  Galls — Mange — Stocked  Legs — Knaw- 
ing  Feed  Boxes — Feeding  Salt — Chronic  Grease  Heel — Feeding 
Mare  in  Foal — Bit  for  Hard  Mouth — Lice  on  Colt — Sore  Eyes — 
What  is  the  Cause  and  Cure — Rubbing  tails 215 

CHAPTER  XLII. 

Questions  Answered  by  Dr.  S.  D.  Brimhall — Contracted  Feet — 
Sweeney — Ring-Bone — Heaves — Glanders    200 

CHAPTER   XLIII. 

Questions  Answered  by  Dr.  R.  M.  Dodds — Ulcerated  Tooth — Puffed 
and  Swollen  Shoulder — Azoturia — Barb  Wire  Cut — PufTs  on 
Hock  Joint — Puff  on  Pastern  Joint — Bog  Spavin — Running  Sore 
on  Horse's  Neck — Sweeney — Splints — Scratches — Shoe  Boil — 
Wind-Galls — Warts — Grease  Heel — Ring-Bone — Bone-Spavin — 
Quarter-Crack — "Prick"  of  the  Sole — Hoof-Bound  Feet — Stom- 
ach Worms 222 

APPENDIX. 

KINDERGARTEN  WORK  FOR  LITTLE  COLTS.— Betsy  Teh 
Used  for  Object  Lessons — Natural  Laws  of  Animal  Life — Age 
to  Begin  Training  the  Colt — Horse  Intelligence — Horse's  Won- 
derful Memory— When  and  How  to  Begin  With  the  Colt— Han- 
dle the  Colt  All  Over — Secure  the  Colt's  Entire  Confidence — 
Educating  the  Colt  to  the  Halter — Educating  the  Colt  to  Back — 
Driving  the  Young  Colt  With  Lines — Educating  the  Colt  to  Stop 
— Laying  the  Young  Colt  Down — Teach  the  Colt  Useful  Lessons 
Only — A  Choice  Vocabulary  for  the  Colt — Specific  Words  for 
Definite  Actions — A  Ten  Word  Horse  Vocabulary — Confusion 
Must  Be  Avoided — Make  Lessons  of  Short  Duration — No  Sud- 
den Movements — Never  Frighten  theColt — Use  and  Abuse  of  the 
Whip — Never  Whip  and  Jerk  at  the  Same  Time — Mutual  Under- 
standing       227 


CHAPTER  I. 

SCIENTIFIC  BREEDING. 

Science  involves  methods  of  acquiring  knowledge;  methods  of  or- 
ganizing knowledge  acquired  with  experience.  Methods  demonstrate 
the  digested  experience  of  men  and  result  in  what  is  known  as  "com- 
mon sense."  the  accumulation  of  which  can  properly  be  called  knowledge 
arranged  in  order-science. 

Common-sense  breeding  is  as  nearly  applied  science  as  we  can  de- 
fine the  subject.  Webster  says,  applied  science  is  a  knowledge  of  the 
facts  or  phenomena  as  produced  by  means  of  causes  or  laws.  The  laws 
of  generation,  in  the  very  nature  of  things,  are  not,  and  can  never  be, 
reduced  to  a  mathematical  science.  Scientific  breeding,  therefore,  is 
simply  keeping  within  the  lines  possessing  the  strongest  demonstrated 
inheritance  of  all  tlie  qualities  desired  in  the  offspring,  and  when  we 
come  to  understand  the  matter,  there  will  be  nothing  regarded  as  mys- 
terious about  scientific  breeding.  It  is  common-sense  breeding,  or  the 
production  of  what  is  wanted  fiom  animals  possessing  the  desired  char- 
acteristics for  many  generations  back  with  the  least  variation. 

SPECIAL  LINE  BREEDING  FOR  UNIFORMITY  OF  CONFOR- 
MATION. 

Two  hundred  and  fifty  years'  breeding  (never  out-crossing)  from 
the  survival  of  the  fittest  in  the  running-horse  line,  has  demonstrated 
that  we  have  attained  the  greatest  degree  of  perfection  that  the  world 
has  ever  known,  both  in  quality  of  animals  and  production  of  speed; 
and  when  we  consider  the  development  of  the  American  trotter  and 
oacer,  and  the  close  application  of  that  great  natural  law  of  "like  pro- 
ducing like,"  our  production  of  performers  is  simply  an  astonishment 
to  all  other  countries — and  all  this  has  been  accomplished  practically 
within  the  past  quarter  of  a  century.  But  if  the  question  is  asked, 
what  particular  horse  was  able  to  transmit  this  wonderful  inheritance? 
no  one  is  to  be  found  who  is  able  to  answer  satisfactorily.  Yet  the 
accumulative  force  along  the  same  line  increases  in  its  onward  course, 
as  the  little  brook  in  its  wanderings  towards  the  mighty  ocean  becomes 
a  great  river.  To  make  further  improvement  in  size,  style,  action,  color, 
or  any  other  desirable  quality,  the  same  rules  and  common  sense  must 
be  complied  with,  within  the  type,  line  of  performance,  or  breed.  Cross- 
ing any  of  the  diftercnt  types  or  breeds  with  a  view  of  scientific  improve- 
ment is  tampering  with  uncertainties,  and  should  be  characterized  as  at- 


2  HORSE   SENSE. 

tempted  science  witliout  sense,  logic  without  reason;  a  move  backwards, 
instead  of  forwards:  a  tearing  dow^n  of  the  work  of  improvement  that 
those  before  have  labored  for  generations  to  establish.  Very  serious, 
if  not  irreparable,  damage  is  often  done  by  one  injudicious  out-cross. 
Then  how  important  it  is  that  we  should  have  some  systematic  way  of 
investigating   all    of   our    breeding    problems. 

STATE    OR   GOVERNMENT   LAWS   CONTROLLING   SERVICE 
STALLIONS. 

If  the  principles  of  common-sense  breeding  cannot  be  maintained 
by  mutual  consent,  through  a  state  breeders'  association,  or  other  so- 
cieties, tlien  we  should  have  an  enactment  of  law  that  will  prohibit  the 
us  of  any  but  the  best  of  sires  for  public  service.  The  public  demands 
horses  of  size,  style,  substance,  action,  symmetry  of  conformation,  with 
as  nearly  perfect  feet  and  legs  as  possible,  and  how  are  we  to  comply 
with  this  demand  unless  we  make  a  strenuous  effort  to  breed  what  is 
wanted?  To  do  this,  no  unsound,  blemished,  ill-shaped,  irregular-gaited 
or  bad-dispositioned  stallion  should  be  permitted  public  service.  We 
have  enough  good  sires  and  dams  to  make  a  great  showing,  if  they  were 
selected  and  brought  together  in  their  proper  relation;  but  so  long  as 
the  force  of  this  matter  is  not  fully  considered,  the  crossroads,  nonde- 
script stallion  will  be  used,  and  the  country,  as  well  as  the  individual, 
must  suffer  the  irremediable   consequence. 

NATURE'S   LAW  OF   "LIKE  PRODUCING  LIKE."  THE  TRUE 
PRINCIPLE. 

That  fundamental  natural  law  of  "like  begetting  like,  or  the  like- 
ness of  some  ancestor,"  must  never  be  lost  sight  of  in  any  of  the  lines 
of  breeding.  The  most  common  error  committed  is,  that  the  remote 
ancestral  inheritance  is  lost  sight  of  by  most  breeders;  they  confine 
themselves  to  an  examination  of  the  immediate  ancestors  only,  when 
an  acquaintance  with  the  remote  progenitors  is  of  much  greater  im- 
portance in  what  they  are  trying  to  accomplish. 

If  the  progeny  would  always  take  after  the  immediate  parents,  then 
the  question  of  breeding  w-ould  be  easy,  and  almost  anyone  could  make 
progress.  But  when  we  see  the  produce  taking  back  after  some  remote 
ancestor  possessing  undesirable  qualities,  then  it  is  that  we  often  hesitate, 
and  even  doubt  our  own  observations. 

HORSE-BREEDERS    MUST    HAVE    A    DEFINITE    OBJECT   IN 
VIEW. 

Breeders  to  be  very  successful  must  know  positively  all  about  the 
breeding  animals  that  ihey  are  using,  and  to  do  this  successfully  they 
must  be  familiar  with  the  records  and  performance  of  these  animals. 
Many  a  breeder,  from  neglect  to  register  his  animals,  has  lost  untold 
advantages  to  himself  and  others  who  would  like  to  use  his  breeding 
stock.  The  registry  is  the  only  safe  means  of  perpetuating  the  good 
qualities  of  the  breeds,  and  is  the  only  safe  guide  to  purchasers  in  tracing 
the  antecedents  of  their  own  or  others'  animals;  and  until  we  direct  our 


HOKSK     SENSE.  6 

attention   to  this,  as  well   a^  to  tlic   merits   of  the  individual,  we  will   be 
making  but  little  headway  in  inii>r()\  inj;  any  of  our  breeding  stock. 

"Biology  treats  of  living  matter,  and  the  study  of  living  tissue.  It 
has  to  do  with  the  origin,  structure,  development,  function  and  dis- 
tribution of  animals — the  science  of  life  in  its  widest  acceptation — scien- 
tific inquiries  into  the  first  origin  of  life  and  the  changes  it  has  under- 
gone from  the  earliest  traceable  neriod  until  now;"  consequently  the 
importance  of  the  breeder  knowing  just  what  he  is  doing. 

AN   IDEAL  PRODUCTION    .SHOULD   BE    KEPT   IN   MIND. 

The  breeder  should  luive  ;i  definite  object  in  view.  He  should  have 
an  ideal  production  in  his  mind,  and  every  move  he  makes  should  con- 
form to  that  object  ami  the  law  of  reproduction.  To  breed  horses  suc- 
cessfully, we  must  bring  applied  science  (common  sense)  to  our  aid  and 
direction.  When  the  laws  of  horse  breeding  are  fully  understood,  we 
will  have  fewer  "offs"  than  we  now  have  perfections;  it  will  be  just  as 
easy  to  distinguish  the  difTerent  breeds  of  horses  as  it  is  now  the  several 
types  of  cattle — as  the  Shorthorn,  Devon,  Holstein  or  Jersey. 

MENTAL  AS  WELL  AS  PHYSICAL  CHARACTERISTICS  MUST 
BE   MAINTAINED. 

There  is  this  difference  between  horse  and  cattle  breeding:  The 
horse,  in  addition  to  his  physical  constitution,  has  a  mental  organiza- 
tion that  must  be  studied  and  maintained  in  relation  to  his  education 
and  duties.  I'  is  much  easier  to  improve  the  bodily  defects  than  those 
of  the  mental  characteristics. 

The  foundation  rock  upon  which  to  build  a  permanent  improvement 
in  horse  breeding  must  be  based  on  soundness  in  all  breeding  animals, 
both  near  and  remote,  for  the  strong  reason,  that  all  defects  or  unsound- 
ness are  just  ab  transmissible  as  the  meritorious  qualities. 

DEFECTS    AND    WEAKNESS    ARE    TRANSMITTED    TO    THE 
OFFSPRING. 

At  breeding  time  the  sire  and  dam  should  be  most  scrutinizingly  ex- 
amined for  defects,  conformation,  size,  style,  color,  gait,  coat,  skin, 
mane  and  tail,  character  of  feet  and  legs,  muscular  power,  digestive  ca- 
pacity, stam.ina  and  intelligence.  Each  and  every  part  should  be  care- 
fully weighed,  and  if  not  foimd  to  be  well  adapted  to  each  other,  then 
look  further  for  breeders,  as  it  will  not  pay  to  produce  undesirable,  un- 
salable, good-for-nothing  animals.  The  weak  places  or  parts  should 
be  strengthened,  rather  than  to  try  to  make  the  strong  ones  stronger. 
Weakness  of  a  similar  character  in  both  sire  and  dam  is  almost  sure  to 
be  still  weaker  in  the  ofifspring. 

SELECT  A  SPECIAL  TYPE  AND  STAY  WITH  THAT  TYPE. 

Now,  to  sum  the  whole  matter  up  in  a  "nutshell:"  Select  the  type 
of  horses  desired,  and  then  choose  the  strongest  of  the  type,  all  things 
considered,  and  confine  your  operations  to  the  type  decided  on.  If  it 
is   runners,   take  the   best   of  the  thcroughbreds,   and  stay  by   them.       If 


4  HORSE     SENSE. 

it  is  trotters  and  pacers,  there  are  plenty  to  make  selections  from,  and 
stay  there.  Il  it  is  draft  horses  of  any  of  the  established  breeds,  you 
can  make  good  and  careful  selections  out  of  them,  and  confine  your  breed- 
ing to  that  class.  If  your  choice  happens  to  be  with  the  coachers,  you 
can  possibly  find  those  that  will  fill  the  bill,  and  reproduce  themselves: 
but  this  last  is  the  hardest  to  maintain,  as  the  fashions  are  constantly 
changing  with  the  fastidious  people  who  are  the  buyers.  Saddle  horses 
will  in  time  become  a  luxury,  and  they  will  not  be  hard  to  find,  as  they 
are  well  established  in  their  gaits,  and  breed  with  great  uniformity;  but 
they,  too,  must  be  kept  within  their  line  and  breeding,  for  improve- 
ment. 

HORSE  BREEDING  SHOULD  INTEREST  EVERYBODY. 

Reader,  will  you  kindly  consider  this  breeding  subject  in  its  true 
light,  and  from  now  on  give  it  the  attention  that  it  justly  deserves,  for 
the  interest  you  have  in  it,  the  interest  your  neighbor  has  in  it,  the  in- 
terest your  country  has  in  horse  improvement,  and  also  the  great  ad- 
vantages that  will  accrue  to  the  country  if  we  can  attract  foreign  buyers. 


WAKE  UP. 


"Wake  up,  you  dormant  breeders. 

Who've  been  sleeping  for  past  years. 
Strike   out   anew — the  night   has  passed — 

The  morning  light  appears. 
The  times  have  changed;   cash   buyers   now 

Are  scouring  east  and  west, 
Ready  to  lay  their  ducats  down 

For  horses  of  the  best. 
The  horse  with  size  and  action, 

Well  formed,  with  color  right, 
Is  hard  to  find,  but  when  he's  found 

The  price  they  will  not  fight. 
The  scarcity  of  horses  soon 

Will  open  up  your  eyes; 
The  prices  that  the  fine  ones  bring 

Will  fill  you  with  surprise. 
There's  money  in  horse-breeding  now; 

By  the  time  your  colt  is  five 
You'll  find  he's  'lasses  in  the  jug, 

And  honev  in  the   hive." 


CHAPTER    II. 

RIGHT    AND    WRONG  COXFORAIATION  OF    THE    HORSE'S 
LEGS. 

The  feet  and  legs  of  the  liorse  hold  about  the  same  relation  to  his 
general  usefulness  that  the  "running  gear""  does  to  the  wagon.  If  the 
axles  are  sprung,  the  wheels  dished,  and  one  wheel  docs  nut  follow  an- 
other (don't  track,  as  it  were),  the  wagon  will  run  heavy,  is  not  strong, 
and  is  really  a  failure  for  the  purposes  intended;  and  it  is  just  about  the 
same  with,  a  horse  that  has  deformed  legs,  or  if  they  are  hung  to  the  body 
in  a  twisted  condition.  He  will  move  awkwardly;  he  is  always  interfer- 
ing, or  is  not  strong  and  durable.  The  illustrations  represent  the  differ- 
ent conditions  better  than  we  can  describe  them  in  cut  Xo.  i.  Numbers 
I  and  8  show  how  the  front  and  hind  legs  should  be  attached  to  the  body. 


\z 


?^-#- 


13  14 


10  11 

Cut  No.  I. 
SIMILAR  DEFORMITIE.'^  OF  BOTH  FRONT  AND  HIND  LEGS. 


6 


HORSE     SENSE. 


Numbers  2  and  9  show  the  knees,  hocks  and  ankles  too  close  together. 
Numbers  3  and  10  show  the  legs  nearer  in  line,  but  twisted, — toeing  out 
behind  and  in  front.  Numbers  6  and  13  show  that  the  feet  are  too  wide 
apart,  and  the  horse,  of  necessity,  must  be  a  sprawling  mover.  In  num- 
bers 7  and  14  the  knees  and  hocks  are  bent  outwardly  and  the  feet  in- 
ward. All  these  conditions,  except  numbers  i  and  8,  are  to  be  avoided 
where  improvement  in  breeding  is  aimed  at,  and  the  less  of  any  of  these 
deviations  from  the  right  and  true  formation  the  better  for  usefulness  of 
the  animal. 

In  other  words,  any  deviation  from  the  best  form  is  to  be  regarded 
with  suspicion,  and,  to  be  fully  comprehended,  the  following  illustrations 
will  serve  as  object  lessons,  in  the  comparison  of  mares  and  stallions, 
with   a  view   of  mating  for   improvement. 

THE   FEET   AND   LEGS  OF  THE   HORSE   CONSTITUTE  THE 
RUNNING  GEAR. 

As  the  feet  and  legs  of  our  horses  constitute  their  "running  gear," 
their  means  of  locomotion,  we  will  first  take  a  look  at  the  front  legs, 
in  which  cut  No.  2  shows  five  sets  of  legs;  only  one  set  of  which  should 
be  regarded  as  of  good  form. 


JK  jy  \j  ^hi 

U.y 

'if   1 

'  n  1 

!! 

y  111  A 

Pig.  1.  Fig.  2.  Fig.  3.  Fig.  1  Fig.  5. 

Cut  No.  2. 
LEGS  OF  HORSES  Sll.'iW  IXG  RIGHT  AND  WRONG. 
Fig.    I    (one   the  left    side)    drop  true   from   the   body,   knees   and  toes 


HOKSK     SKNSE.  7 

square  to  tlio  front,  and  alxun  tlic  sanu'  clistanco  apart  on  the  inside,  at 
the  arms  and  at  tiic  ankles. 

Fig  2  is  where  llie  lues  inrn  in,  whieh  generally  produces  an  awkward 
Tnovement  and  inclination  to  "forge"  or  strike  the  hind  shoes  against 
the  front  feet  or  shoes  in  trotting. 

Fig  3  shows  the  feet  wide  apart,  which,  also,  makes  an  awkward 
mover,  and  a  like  disposition  to  "forge"  and  also  to  "stumble." 

Fig.  4  represents  the  toes  turning  out,  the  twist  in  the  leg  being 
at  the  knee.  This  is  a  Iiad  conformation  in  movement,  and  the  liability 
to  interfere  at  the  ankles. 

Fig.  5  shows  a  l:ke  deformity  to  that  of  Fig  4,  only  worse,  as  the 
twist  is  at  the  elbow  instead  of  at  the  knee,  and  when  the  legs  are  close 
to-gether  (and  they  generally  are),  the  ankles,  tendons  and  knees  sufTer 
from  interference,  and  can  only  be  remedied  by  "boots."  Many  of  our 
speedy  trotting  and  pacing  horses  "toe  out,"  and  as  a  consequence,  w^e 
see  them   "booted"  from  hoof  to  elbow  for  protection. 

BE  SURE  OF  SPRINGY  PASTERNS,  WHEN  EITHER  LONG  OR 
SHORT. 

The  front  legs  should  stand  well  under  the  horse,  from  both  a  side 
and  front  view,  and  there  should  be  a  nice,  easy  spring  at  the  "pastern." 
Straight  "pasterns"  (from  a  side  view)  are  objectionable  on  account  of 
the  jar  to  the  supporting  column  of  bones.  The  illustration,  Cut  No.  3, 
shows  the  side  view  with  a  line  running  in  the  center  of  the  fore  leg  to 
the  ground  just  at  the  heel.  The  dotted  line  running  through  the  cen- 
ter of  the  foot  and  pastern,  gives  about  the  proper  angle  for  sufficient 
spring  in  the  pastern  to  save  the  jars  to  the  column  of  bones.  It  had 
better  be  more  rather  than  less  springy. 


Cut  No.  3. 

A— OUTSIDE  OF  SOLE  AND  FROG.  B— INSIDE  OF  SOLE  AND 

FROG.     C— PROPER  ANGLE  OF  PASTERN  AT  SIDE  VIEW. 

Ilhistration  A.  cut  No.  3.  shnws  the  outer  sole  and  frog,  width  of  the 
foot  and   general   appearance   when  fitted  with  a  plain  shoe. 


8 


HORSE     SENSE. 


Illustration  B,  gives  a  very  good  idea  of  the  appearance  of  the  inside 
of  the  horny  wall,  floor  or  sensitive  sole  and  frog. 

C,  shows  a  side  view  of  the  foot,  pastern,  ankle  and  cannon.  The 
perpendicular  line  thro'.igh  the  middle  of  the  cannon  or  front  leg,  shows 
where  it  should  come  in  contact  with  the  ground  for  the  best  results. 
The  dotted  line  shows  that  the  angle  of  the  foot  and  pastern  are  about 
the  same — =o  degrees. 


g.  6.  Fig.  r.  Fig.  8.  Fig.  9. 

Cut  No.  4. 
REAR  VIEW  OF  THE  HIND   LEGS  AND  FEET. 


Cut  4  shows  four  sets  of  hind  legs  from  the  rear  view,  none  of  which 
could  be  properly  termed  perfect. 

Fig.  6  shows  the  toes  turned  outward,  which  indicates  not  only  a 
weakness,  but  the  action  cannot  be  smooth  and  easy.  Fig.  7  is  a  case 
where  the  toes  are  turned  inward,  which  also  makes  an  awkward  moving 
animal,  with  a  tendency  to  "forge,"  (except  the  body  of  the  horse  is 
very  long).  Fig.  8  shows  the  hind  legs  too  close  together,  which  gives 
a  tendency  to  "interfere"  at  the  ankles,  as  also  to  "forge."  Fig.  9  is  a 
case  where  the  hind  feet  are  too  far  apart,  which  not  only  makes  an  awk- 
ward mover,  but  the  tendency  is  to  work  the  back  too  much  in  traveling, 
and  consequently  the  animal   soon  gets  tired. 


Cut  5  shows   I'liur  ? 
we  would  call  poifoct. 


nOKSK     SENSE.  9 

I   liiiul  ligs  from  a  sitic  view,  none  of  whicli 


Fig.  10. 


Fig.  13. 


Fig.  11.  Fig.  le. 

Cut  No.  5. 
SIDE  VIEW  OF  THE  HIND  QUARTERS  AND  HIND  LEGS. 

Fig.  10  shows  an  unbalanced  conformation;  the  legs  are  too  far  back 
of  the  body,  which  makes  an  extra  strain  on  the  back,  and  the  hind 
legs  are  dragged  after  the  horse,  rather  than  serving  as  propellers.  Fig. 
II  is  nearly  as  bad  a  conformation  as  the  former  (Fig.  10),  and  stands 
too  straight  on  his  pasterns.  He  will  not  drag  his  hind  legs  cjuite  as 
much  as  the  other,  but  he  will  almost  drive  his  hind  feet  into  the  ground 
in  trotting,  which  gives  a  terrible  jar  to  the  bones  of  the  legs.  Fig.  12 
is  a  case  where  the  legs  are  well  under  the  body,  but  so  straight  through- 
out that  the  m.ovcment  can  neither  be  easy  or  springy.  Fig  13  is  the 
best  poise  of  the  hind  legs  for  the  support  of  the  body,  but  they  are 
also  too  straight  to  wear  well  or  glide  over  the  surface  smoothly.  The 
pasterns  in  all,  are  too  straight  even  if  the  legs  were  properly  joined  to 
the  bodv. 


CHAPTER  III. 

DIFFERENT    TYPES    OF    HORSES    AND    THEIR    GENERAL 
CHARACTER. 

In  treating  of  the  different  types  of  horses  here,  it  must  be  borne  in 
mind  that  only  a  passing  notice  can  be  given,  but  enough  to  give  the 
reader  a  definite  idea  that  there  is  a  great  difference  and  that  each  have 
their  place  for  the  duties  required.  We  must  select  the  type  best  suited 
for  the  work  to  be  performed  with  the  least  wear  and  tear  on  the  con- 
stitution of  the  animal,  and  as  our  very  best  and  greatest  improvements 
in  the  equine  race  started  with  the  horses  of  the  desert — the  Arabian, 
it  is  only  justice  to  this  noble  animal,  that  we  begin  here. 

THE  ARABIANS  HAVE  QUALITY,  INTELLIGENCE,  ACTIVITY 
AND  ENDURANCE. 

The  foot  of  the  Arab  horse  is  round  and  large,  with  a  hard,  tough 
wall.  The  bones  of  the  pastern-joint  are  fine,  oblique  and  springy.  The 
cannon-bones  are  short  and  fine  in  proportion  to  the  back  sinews,  but 
have  never  been  known  to  break  down.  The  knees  and  hocks  are 
broad,  clean  cut  and  very  strong.  The  shoulders  are  well  clothed  with 
muscle,  but  the  hind  quarters  are  much  narrower  than  in  our  horses. 
The  line  of  the  hind  quarter  is  finer,  action  freer  and  the  upper  thigh 
longer  than  the  English  thoroughbred.  In  body  the  Arab  is  much 
like  the  thoroughbred  (the  .source  of  the  latter)  e.xcept  shorter  in  the 
back  and  possibly  higher  at  the  croup,  the  tail  "coming  out  high  up. 
The  barrel  is  round,  deep  at  the  girth,  with  shoulders  as  good  as  any 
horse,  and  forearms  standing  out  with  unusual  prominence.  The  head 
of  the  Arabian  horse  looks  larger  than  that  of  the  thoroughbred,  chiefly 
on  account  of  the  depth  and  spread  of  the  jowl-width  between  the  jaw 
bones,  giving  plenty  of  room  for  the  windpipe  and  an  easy  poise  and 
freedom  of  motion  to  the  head.  The  forehead  is  prominent,  the  muzzle 
fine  and  eyes  large,  and  very  mild  in  expression.  The  ears  are  fine  and 
beautifully  shaped,  though  not  what  would  be  called  small.  The  neck 
of  the  x\rab  is  light  and  fine,  with  the  head  attached  at  a  different  angle 
from  the  thoroughbred.  The  style  of  the  Arab  horse  is  something  very 
striking,  with  head  and  tail  carried  with  such  grace  and  character  that 
must  be  seen  to  be  appreciated.  The  pure  bred  Arabian  is  a  low,  easy 
gaited  horse,  and  is  good  at  the  walk,  trot  or  gallop,  but  the  trot  is  but 
little  indulged  in  with  the  Arab.  In  disposition,  the  Arabian  horses 
are  gentle   and   affectionate— familiar  to  almost     the     degree     of     being 


HOK  si- 


ll 


troublesome-.  Tlicy  have  no  fear  ui  man  whatever,  for  they  do  not  un- 
derstand thai  they  are  to  be  hurt.  This  extreme  gentleness  and  courage 
is  inherited,  and  the  yming  colt  never  thinks  of  getting  on  the  other 
side  of  it?  dam  for  protection,  as  ours  often  do. 


Cut  Xo.  0. 
A  TYPICAL  ARABIAN. 

This  fine  illustration  of  a  typical  Arabian  horse  gives  a  good  idea  of 
what  fine  quality  this  race  of  horses  possess.  No  wonder  there  is  so 
much  said  about  reinforcing  the  blood  of  our  horses  by  a  return  to  the 
Arab,  and  we  can  here  readily  see  why  all  breeders  are  so  proud  to  be 
able  to  trace  the  lineage  of  their  horses  to  that  of  the  Arabian-Breeders 
of  all  classes  of  horses  strive  to  trace  theirs  back  to  this  noble  race. 

The  Arabian  horse  in  his  native  country,  is  never  viscious,  shies  or 
shows  signs  of  fear,  nor  wince  at  fire  arms.  In  these  respects  they  are 
very  different  from  other  horses.  The  colts  are  handled  by  the  chil- 
dren and  played  with  from  birth.  They  are  ridden  by  the  boys  of  light 
weight  at  one  year  old,  and  this  assists  in  making  them  very  kind  and 
gentle.  The  only  objection  that  can  possibly  be  brought  against  the 
Arabian  horse  is  his  size.  He  is  small,  but  their  strength  and  endur- 
ance is  almost  beyond  comprehension,  as  they  igo  surprisingly  long  dis- 
tances  under   heavy  weights   without  tiring.       They   may  be  ridden  day 


12  HORSE     SENSE. 

after  day,  with  only  grass  for  feed  and  yet  they  do  not  lose  courage  or 
condition,  and  are  ready  to  gallop  at  the  end  of  a  long  journey. 

The  Arabs  never  ride  stallions  when  in  war,  as  they  are  more  apt 
to  neigh  and  apprize  the  enemy  of  their  location  or  presence. 

The  principle  colors  are  bay,  grey,  chestnut,  brown  or  black.  Roan, 
piebald,  duns,  cream  and  calico  are  not  to  be  found  among  the  pure 
Arabians. 

In  conclusion,  let  it  be  fully  understood  that  inch  for  inch,  the  Arabian 
liorses  are  superior  to  any  other  type  lor  the  uses  to  which  they  are  by 
nature  adapted. 

The  description  of  the  Arabian  horses  will  apply  well  to  that  of  the 
others  to  follow,  with  the  exceptions  of  size  and  development  for  the 
duties  to  be  performed.  The  Arabian  standing  at  the  head  in  intelli- 
gence, quality,  endurance,  courage  and  docility,  he  is  naturally  placed 
at  the  head  of  the  list  of  types  of  horses. 

Tradition  states  that  Ishmael,  the  son  of  Abraham,  who,  when  he 
was  turned  out  of  his  father's  tent,  captured  a  mare  that  he  found  run- 
ning wild  and  made  her  his  companion,  which  gave  him  the  honor  of 
being  the  first  tamer  and  trainer  of  horses. 

Represented  in  cut  No.  6,  is  a  typical  Arab  horse,  which  the  reader 
will  do  well  to  examine  carefully  and  compare  with  the  description. 

GENERALS     OF     EUROPE     FORMERLY     RODE     ARABL\N 
HORSES. 

"In  the  wars  of  the  first  Napoleon,  the  French  officers  captured  the 
most  valiant  of  their  battle  steeds  from  the  Arabs.  Napoleon's  most 
famous  charger  was  a  pure  white,  pure  bred  Arabian  stallion.  Alarengo, 
the  famous  white  horse  that  Napoleon  rode  at  Waterloo,  was  a  pure  bred 
A''abian.  This  is  the  war  horse  that  the  great  artist  Vernet  represents 
the  great  Corsican  as  riding,  in  his  immortal  painting  of  "Napoleon 
Crossing  the  Alps.'  But  there  are  no  more  Marengoes  in  Arabia  today. 
The  race  is  fast  dying  out  with  the  degeneracy  of  the  Arabs. 

ENGLISH  THOROUGHBRED. 

This  type  of  horses  has  been  bred  for  many,  many  generations  for 
the  specific  purpose  of  running  a  given  distance  in  the  shortest  possible 
tim.o,  and  have  never  been  outcrossed.  They  are  bred  from  the  survival 
of  the  fitest  only,  and  whenever  a  reinforcement  of  the  blood  is  required, 
the  original  .Arabian  or  Ba'-b  sire  is  resorted  to.  The  thoroughbred  is 
never  crossed  with  the  Morgan,  Hambletonian,  Mambrino  Chief,  Hack- 
ney, French  coach,  or  draft  breeds  witii  a  thought  of  improving  the 
speed  of  the  runner. 

FORM  FOR  A  SPECIFIC  PURPOSE. 

Form  for  the  purpose,  together  with  nerve  force  and  the  actual  per- 
formance at  running,  are  the  requisites  of  the  breeder  of  thoroughbreds. 

The  illustration  of  "Imported  Glencoe,"  the  Greyhound  dog,  "Min- 
neapolis," and  the  fighting  cock.  "Jack,  the  Ripper"  (Cut  No.  7).  make 


HORSK     SKNSH.  13 

tlirec   of  a   kind — all    s-'anu-stt.  rs   1)uill    on    a    'plan    for    active    work,     and 
the  rcadtr  will  nnu>  the  similarity  -vf  fonii  in  horse  and  dog. 


Cut  No.   7. 

"Imp.  Glencoe,"  "Minneapolis."  and  rooster,  "Jack,  the  Ripper." 

THREE  OF  A  KIND,  ALL  GAMESTERS. 

Many  of  these  horses  have  become  noted  on  the  turf  as  well  as  on 
the  fields  of  battle. 

WAR   HORSES   AND   FAMOUS   CHARGERS. 

At  the  battle  of  Waterloo,  the  duke  of  Wellington  rode  that  great 
thoroughbred  horse,  "Copenhagen,"  and  Lord  Cardigan,  mounted  on 
the  chestnut  thoroughbred,  "Ronald,"  led  the  charge  of  the  famous 
"600"  at  Balaklava.  But  where  are  the  "Copenhagens"  and  "Ronalds" 
of  today?     Echo  answers,  all  dead. 

Gen.  Grant's  favorite  horse,  "Cincinnati,"  Gen.  Lee's,  "Telegraph," 
and  the  fated  Gen.  Custer's  "Frog  Town,"  all  carried  a  large  percent- 
age of  thoroughbred  blood. 

THE  MORGAN  TYPE  OF  HORSES  POSSESSED  MANY  VALU- 
ABLE CHARACTERISTICS. 

Morgan  horses  in  the  United  States  (their  native  home)  for  a  long 
time  in  the  history  of  the  country,  and  especially  in  the  New  England 
states,  stood  out  prominently  as  next  to   the  Arabian  horse  in  courage. 


14 


HORSE     SENSK 


intelligence,  style  and  endurance,   but   like   the  Arab   horse,  the  greatest 
objection  was  his  size. 

POTENCY  OF  ^lORGAN  BLOOD  SHOWS  MERIT  IN  BREED- 
ING. 

The  prepotenc}-  of  the  ]\iorgan  blood,  shows  itself  as  prominently 
down  through  many  generations  of  outcrossing  as  that  of  any  other  type 
of  our  horses.  The  characteristics  of  form,  style,  prompt  action  and 
endurance  is  still  manifest  more  particularly  in  the  admixture  with  the 
descendents  of  old  Messenger,  the  remote  fountain  of  the  trotting  horses 
of  today.  A  combination  of  Hambletonian,  lo,  Mambrina  Chief,  ii,  and 
almost  any  branch  of  the  Morgan  families,  gives  compactness  of  form, 
rapid  aciion,  level  head,  good  finish  and  graceful  carriage.  By  careful 
analysis  of  many  of  our  best  pcformers  in  harness  races  of  today,  will 
be  found  the  combination  above  represented,  added  to  this  will  be  found 
the  thorousfhbred   blood,   of   many   different   strains. 


Cut  No.  8. 
GREEN  MOUNTAIN  MORGAN  2ND. 
The  illustration  of  the  general  appearance,  compactness  of  form, 
style  and  conformation,  etc.,  is  best  shown  in  cut  No.  8,  of  Green  ]\Ioun- 
tain  Morgan  2nd,  of  which  this  is  said  to  be  an  excellent  likeness,  and 
was  sired  by  Gififord  Morgan,  by  Woodbury  Morgan,  by  old  Justin 
Morgan:  dam  by  Woodbury  Morgan,  by  old  Justin  Morgan.  He  was 
an  inbred  Morgan,  and  one  of  the  handsomest  of  the  race;  foaled  1834, 
14^  hands  high,  and  weighed  i.ioo  pounds. 


HORSE     SENSE. 


IDEAL  LIGHT  HARNESS  HORSE. 


15 


W'liile  the  cut  No.  8'/^  gives  a  good  idea  of  the  type,  it  does  not  do 
the  individual  justice.  This  house  was  owned  by  the  author  until  more 
th?.n  twenty-five  years  old,  and  a  more  perfect  or  ideal  form  for  the 
purpose,  better,  more  intelligent  and  safer  individual  would  be  almost 
impossible  to  find.  He  is  registered  in  Wallace's  first  volume  of  the 
American  Trotting  Register,  under  the  name  of  Security,  and  he  was 
rightly  named.  Like  David  Harum's  horse,  a  "woman  could  drive 
him  as  well  as  a  man."     But  unlike  his  horse,  he  never  balked.       The 


Cut  No.  814. 

SECURITY. 

Beauty,  quality  and  character  combined. 

wife  of  the  author  preferred  to  drive  him  to  any  other  of  fifty  or  more 
horses  on  the  farm,  as  he  w^as  absolutely  safe,  day  or  night.  He  was 
all  that  could  be  desired  in  ideal  form,  road  qualities  and  character;  but 
he  was  not  bred  right  to  be  able  to  perpetuate  these  very  meritorious 
qualities.  He  was  the  result  of  two  very  different  prepotent  types  of 
horses,  and  he  had  taken  on  the  good  qualities  of  both,  but  was  un- 
able to  transmit  to  his  progeny,  what  he  himself  had  inherited.  He 
was  a  cross  of  the  Morgan  and  thoroughbred  types  and  his  colts  were 
never   equal   to   the    sire.       Out   of   fifty   or   more   of  our    own    raising, 


16 


HORSE     SENSE. 


scarcely  any  two  were  of  the  same  type.  One  going  towards  the  thor- 
oughbred, and  another  to  the  Morgan,  and  so  on,  which  made  his  work 
as  a  sire  very  unsatisfactory,  and  still  he  got  many  good  horses,  but  of 
no  specific  type.  He  was  greatly  enjoyed  by  the  family  as  a  grand 
good  horse,  but  a  disappointment  as  a  breeder. 


Cut  No.  9. 
THE  PURE-BRED  ORLOFF  TROTTING  MARE  BAJADERKA. 
This  fine  specimen  of  the  Orlofif  breed  shows  indications  of  the  care 
in  which  the  Russians  have  maintained  the  color  and  general  type  of  the 
grey  Arab  while  increasing  the  size.  This  class  of  horses  is  prized  very 
highly  in  their  native  country,  and  many  of  them  are  great  trotters. 


HORSE     SENSE. 


i"; 


THE  RUSSIAN  OR  ORLOFF  TYPE  OF  HORSES. 

These  elegant  horses  of  Russia,  are  from  carefully  preserved  descend- 
ents  of  the  pure  bred  Arabian  sires,  taken  to  Russia  for  the  improve- 
ment of  their  light  carriage  and  saddle  horses,  and  are  worthy  of  notice 
here.  They  are  much  improved  in  size  without  losing  much  of  the 
quality  and  beauty  of  the  Arabian.  For  an  object  lesson,  the  reader  is 
referred  to  cut  No.  9,  which  speaks  for  itself  better  than  words  can 
describe. 

NATURE'S  LAW  OF  SELECTION  VERIFIED. 

Here  is  an  illustration,  cut  No.  10,  of  what  the  American  trotting 
family  of  horses  should  be  brought  to — horses  of  size,  style,  symetry, 
substance  and  action — and  when  they  have  the  desired  speed,  they  will 
bring  all  the  money  one  has  the  conscience  to  ask.  If  they  lack  the 
speed,  then  we  may  have  the  grand  carriage  horses  demanded  in  the 
markets  at  long  prices.  If  they  have  neither  the  speed  or  fancy  style, 
they  will  make  excellent  roadsters  or  splendid  farm  horses  of  the  active 
type. 


Cut  No.   10. 
CONQUERER    STAR    (2:23),    BY    NELSON    (2:09). 


18  HORSE     SENSE. 

If  the  American  people  had  given  the  attention  to  this  type  of  ani- 
mals, rather  than  to  speed  without  regard  to  type,  then  we  would  have 
today  ideality  in  form,  grandure  in  style,  intelligence  almost  human,  size 
to  suit  the  varied  tastes  and  poetry  of  motion.  Cut  No.  lo  is  a  good 
representation  of  Conquerer  Star,  two-year-old  record,  2:2;^ — sired  by  the 
great  Nelson,  record  2:09  trotting.  His  dam.  Bright  Star,  by  Star- 
light. His  grand  dam,  Violet,  by  Volunteer.  His  great-grand  sire, 
Tom  Rolfe.  a  son  of  the  famous  Pocahontas,  that  took  a  pacing  record 
to  wagon  nearly  fifty  years  ago  of  2:i7li.  We  have  here  a  combina- 
tion of  Hambletonian,  Mambrino  Chief,  and  Morgan  blood,  with  the 
pacer  added,  which  today  is  so  harmoniously  intermingled  with  the 
trotting  strains,  that  by  the  form  of  the  animal  there  is  no  telling  whether 
the  gait  will  be  of  the  trot  or  pace.  It  may  be  either  or  both,  with  a 
good  prospect  of  additional  speed  added.  The  two  gaits  of  today  are 
interchangable. 

AMERICAN  SADDLE  HORSE. 

That  this  high  class  of  special  creation  of  American  origin  is  des- 
tined to  become  very  popular  among  the  wealthy  classes  there  is  no 
question. 

The  American  saddle  horse  is  one  of  the  very  best  organized  ani- 
mals of  the  different  types,  all  things  considered,  and  is  a  creation  of 
beauty  in  outline,  graceful  in  movement,  intelligent  akin  to  human, 
and  more  capable  in  the  use  and  action  of  his  legs  than  all  others  of 
the  equine  race. 

AMERICAN    SADDLE   HORSE'S  ABILITY    TO    CHANGE    OF 
GAITS. 

The  use  of  the  legs  in  going  different  gaits,  is  more  remarkable  with 
the  saddle  bred  horse  than  any  other.  He  seems  to  be  endowed  with 
the  ability  of  instantly  changing  from  one  gait  to  another  without  hinder- 
ance  or  falter  in  movement.  With  the  best  specimens  of  saddle  bred 
horses,  the  different  gaits  are  clear  and  distinct,  and  free  from  friction. 
The  plain  walk  is  flat-footed  and  smooth;  the  fast  walk  (running  walk, 
or  fox-trot)  is  easy  and  without  constraint;  the  trot,  is  a  line  movement; 
the  'rack,  is  steady  and  free  from  what  would  be  called  force,  and  with- 
out a  pacing  movement;  the  canter,  is  slow  and  clear,  without  shufHe 
and  performed  with  either  foot  in  the  lead.  The  quality  of  the  horse 
is  fine,  substance  tseosonable,  weight  in  proportion  to  height,  with  evi- 
dence of  endurance'',and  good  manners;  much  of  the  latter  acquired  by 
a  proper  education,  which  is  only  a  demonstration  of  ability  to  go  the 
different  gaits  and  the  instructor,  to  show  when  and  how  they  should 
be  performed.  Illustration  seen  in  cut  No.  11,  is  that  of  Black  Squirrel 
2nd,  and  shows  a  typical  animal  of  the  type.  Strong  at  every  point, 
style  fi-ont  and  rear,  with  a  faultless  "running  gear" — feet  and  legs — 
which   insures   safety    of   seat,  fearlessness   in   action,   with   courage    and 


HORSK     SENSE. 


19 


horse  sense,  sufficient  to  make  the  rider  enjoy  horse-back  riding-  to  any 
other  way  of  going. 


Cut  No.  II. 

BLACK  SQUIRREL  2ND. 

Champion  Purse  Winner. 

GENER.^L   PURPOSE   PIORSE  A   RARE  SPECIMEN    OF  ANY 
BREED  OR  TYPE. 

The  general  purpose  horse  is  more  of  an  ideal  animal  than  a  reality. 
"We  have  been  trying  for  many  generations  to  produce  this  much  covet 
type  of  horses,  with  now  and  then  an  individual  animal  that  seemed 
to  just  fill  the  bill,  but  when  we  have  endeavored  to  build  upon  this  prin- 
ciple, failure  has  met  us  at  every  hand  and  we  must  content  ourselves 
with  the  individuals  to  be  found  among  the  different  types. 

Cut  No.  12  shows  the  stallion  of  all  work,  and  a  close  inspection  will 
satisfy  the  majority  that  he  is  large  enough  (1.300  pounds),  and  when  his 
breeding  is  known,  none  will  deny  but  that  he  is  possessed  with  action 
sufificient  for  the  general  purpose  horse.  He  shows  strong  at  every 
point,  level  headed,  and  to  those  looking  for  this  class,  he  no  doubt  will 
fill  the  bill.  This  is  a  very  good  likeness  of  Red  Wilkes,  1749,  by 
George   Wilkes,  519,   by   Hambletonian,    10: 


20 


HORSE     SENSE. 


Red  Wilkes  is  the  sire  (at  this  writing)  of  145  trotters  and  pacers, 
with  records  from  2:06^  to  2:30.  He  has  "jj  sons,  that  have  sired  357 
trotters  and  pacers  from  2:ooj4  to  2:30.  He  has  62  daughters,  that 
are  the  dams  of  94  trotters  and  pacers  with  records  of  2:30  and  below, 
and  yet  the  casual  observer  would  say  to  himself  that  he  looks  more 
like^he  would  sire  common  work  horses  than  those  for  racing  purposes. 
Here  again  we  have  the  combination  of  Hambletonian,  10,  Mambrino 
Chief,  II.  and  the  Morgan  strains,  and  we  get  compactness  of  form, 
size  and   substance   to   suit   the   most   critical. 


Cut  No.  12. 
ALL  PURPOSE  STALLION. 


Cut  13  represents  a  brood  mare  that  will  mate  well  with  the  stallion 
for  good  serviceable  horses  of  all  work.  She  has  well  sprung  pasterns, 
good  feet,  and  legs  well  under  her.  She  has  an  excellent  digestive  de- 
partment, with  roomy  pelvis.  She  is  muscular,  has  plenty  of  courage, 
and  a  mare  of  strong  individuality.  Examine  this  stallion  and  mare, 
point  by  point  for  mating. 

This  is  Rose  Chief,  by  Brown  Chief,  5016,  by  Mambrino  Chief,  11, 
dam,  Lady  Nichols,  by  John  Dillard,  by  Indian  Chief,  832,  by  Blood's 
Black  Hawk.  This  all-purpose  mare  bred  to  this  all-purpose  stallion, 
produced  Prince  Wilkes,  with  a  trotting  record  of  2:14)4  under  old 
methods  and  high  wheels. 


HORSE     SENSE. 


21 


THE  STRICTLY  CARRIAGE  HORSE  MAY  BE  FOUND  IN  SEV- 
ERAL BREEDS. 

The  carriage  horse  is  in  great  demand,  not  only  in  this  country,  but 
for  exportation.  He  must  have  size,  style  and  action.  While  we  have 
had  many  importations  of  stallions  to  mate  with  our  American  mares 
to  supply  this  want  in  carriage  teams  so  iar,  they  have  not  filled  the 
expectations  of  importers  or  breeders.  The  law  of  like  begetting  like 
applies  to  the  blood  lines  in  both  stallion  and  mare  to  be  bred  together 
as  well  as  in  general  conformation;  consequently,  all  cross  breeding 
must  be  considered  to  a  great  degree  as  experimental,  and,  remember, 
experiments  are  always  attended  with  more  or  less  failures  before  per- 
fection is  attained. 


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Cut  No.  13. 
ALL  PURPOSE  BROOD  MARE. 


The  French  Coach  and  Hackney  sires  imported  to  this  country 
might  prove  very  valuable  if  we  possessed  the  mares  adapted  to  their 
blood,  but  up  to  the  present  time  their  services  on  our  native  mares 
has  been   too   disappointing   for   recommendation. 

Cut  14  shows  the  American  coach  horse,  with  speed  enough  to  satisfy 
any  carriage  road  rider,  1,250  pounds,  sired  by  a  son  of  Hambletonian, 
10,  dam  bv  a  son  of  Mambrino  Chief,  11. 


22 


HORSE     SENSE. 


THE  CARRIAGE  BROOD  MARE   OF  AMERICAN   BLOOD. 

This  class  of  mares  also  must  be  of  our  American  breeding  or  from 
imported  stock  that  trace  in  the  same  blood  line  channels. 

The  fact  that  matched  teams  of  typical  carriage  horses  bring  the 
highest  prices  of  any  other  class  in  the  markets  of  the  world,  should 
encourage  the  breeder  who  is  the  possessor  of  mares  capable  of  supply- 
ing this  demand,  to  devote  time,  care  and  money  in  the  selection  of 
stallions  to  mate  them  with  to  this  end,  remembering  that  breeding 
is  as  essential  as  conformation  for  uniform  results. 


Cut  No.  14. 
:  AMERICAN  CARRIAGE  STALLION. 

COMPARISON  OF  BLOOD  LINES  AS  NECESSARY  AS  THAT 
OF  CONFORMATION. 

Comparison  of  the  mares  with  stallions  in  conformation  is  with  the 
view  of  correcting  weaknesses  and  constitutional  defects,  but  a  com- 
parison of  blood  lines  is  equally  necessary  where  an  improvement  or 
even  the  maintainance  of  the  general  characteristics  is  desired. 

Cut  IS  is  to  illustrate  the  character  of  a  matron  to  be  bred  to  this 
class  of  stallions;  compare  the  two,  point  by  point,  for  the  duties  of  the 
carriage  for  active  work. 

This  mare  is  a  member  of  the  Clay,  Pilot,  Jr.,  Manibrino  Chief  and 
Morgan  families. 


HORSE     SENSE. 


COACH  HORSE  TYPES  CONSIDERED. 


23 


From  time  immemorial,  the  tj'pe  designated  as  the  coach  horse,  has 
been  the  ambition  of  breeders  to  supply  the  fastidious  people  of  wealth 
and  fashion  with  carriage  and  coach  teams,  but  up  to  the  present  time 
they  have  had  to  depend  largely  on  the  selection  of  individual  animals 
(from  any  source)  to  meet  the  wants  of  fashion  rather  than  the  estab- 
lishing of  a  typical  and  uniform  breed  or  family  of  this  high  class  of 
horses. 


Cut  No.  15. 
AMERICAN   CARRIAGE  BROOD  MARE. 

SIZE,  STYLE,  ACTION  AND  COLOR  AIMED  AT. 

To  get  the  desired  size,  together  with  style  and  action,  has  required 
a  crossing  of  specific  types  of  the  heavy  and  light  horses,  relying  in 
the  beginning  on  Arabian  sires  for  form,  style  and  spirit,  and  dams 
of  some  of  the  larger  types  of  horses,  and  later,  with  the  English  thor- 
oughbred sires  and  dams  of  the  heavier  stock,  but  the  stifif-kneed  action 
of  the  running  horse  has  so  often  failed  to  get  the  desired  action  that 
there  have  been  many  disappointments  in  the  results.  As  to  the  color 
of  coach  horses,  probablj'  the  bay  has  a  more  universal  standing,  but 
people  differ  so  widely  in  taste,  that  what  is  fashionable  this  year  may  be 
off-color  next  year.  Some  want  solid  colors  and  others  want  white 
markings.  | 


24 


HORSE    SENSE. 


ALMOST  ALL  COUNTRIES  TRYING  TO  GET  THE  POPULAR 
COACH  HORSE. 

While  all  countries  are  and  have  been  trying  to  evolve  just  the  desired 
animal  for  the  coach  department,  it  seems  such  a  difficult  problem  that 
none  have  yet  demonstrated  to  the  entire  satisfaction  of  any  country 
that  it  ^i  based  on  a  solid  foundation. 


The  illustration,  cut  No.  i6,  is  a  good  specimen  of  the  hackney  type; 
but  we  should  ever  deplore  and  forcibly  condemn  the  practice  of  cutting 
ofT  the  tail — nature's  wise  provision  to  the  horse  for  protection  against 
his  insect  pests. 

HACKNEY  TYPE  OF  COACH  HORSE. 

This  is  an  old  type  of  animal  of  any  breed  that  was  considered  valu- 
able for  all  purposes,  or  in  other  words,  a  "hack  about"  horse  of  Eng- 
land; and  generally  a  cross  bred  animal.  But  of  late  years  the  best 
specimens  have  been  selected  and  bred  together  for  the  desired  pur- 
pose with  good  results  for  their  native  country.  It  has  been  proven 
that  the  native  stallions  of  this  country  of  predominating  Morgan  blood. 


HORSE     SENSE. 


25 


crossed  witli  the  Inckney  marts  oi  Jilnglaiul,  do  far  ln'tter  than  the 
Knghsh  staUions  have  shown  with  American  mares.  Many  importa- 
tions of  stallions  of  this  type  have  been  used  in  this  country,  but  up  to 
date  they  have  not  met  the  mares  that  would  enable  them  to  establish  a 
fixedness  of  form,  color,  action  and  character  thai  was  expected  gener- 
ally. Many  grand  specimens  of  individuality  can  be  found  in  England^ 
but  in.  this  country  they  have  proved  more  or  less  disappointing  with 
our  American  bred  mares,  as  we  have  not  the  same  tyi)e  of  animals  to 
breed  them  to,  and  cross  breeding  is  always  attended  with  uncertainties. 


Cut  No.  17. 

FRENCH  COACH. 

Cut  No.   17  i.s  a  three-quarter  front  view  of  a  splendid  specimen   of 

the  imported  French  coach  horse,  but  like  the  English  hackney,  he  has 

been  mutilated  at  the  rear  end.  and  deprived  of  nature's  protection  against 

his  insect  enemies,  a  senseless  and  barbaric  practice. 

FRENCH  COACH  HORSE  IN  A  FAIR  WAY. 

While  the  French  Coach  horse  cannot  be  said  to  be  more  potent 
away  from  home,  he  is  certainly  on  the  high  road  to  success  in  the  es- 
tablishment of  a  specific  type  in  his  own  country,  owing  to  the  interest 
the  French  government  is  taking  in  their  development,  by  selecting  the 


26  HORSE     SENSE. 

very  best  specimens  for  breeding  purposes  and  controlling  the  breeding 
animals  for  the  best  results.  This  is  the  only  manner  of  obtaining  a 
true  type  of  animals,  and  eventually  they  will  gain  their  point  of  pro- 
ducing a  coach  horse  of  merit. 

AMERICAN  BREEDERS  NOT  IN  THE  BACKGROUND. 

With  the  many  noble  specimens  of  the  Arab,  thoroughbred,  and 
Morgan  strains  of  horses  we  have  had  in  this  country,  and  the  hard 
work  in  the  development  of  the  American  trotter,  we  have  no  doubt 
now  the  very  best  material  for  the  foundation  of  the  typical  coach  horse, 
and  as  soon  as  we  turn  our  undivided  attention  in  that  direction  we 
will  astonish  the  world  in  being  able  to  get  all  the  required  essentials 
demanded. 

Had  we  given,  as  much  attention  to  the  development  of  the  coach 
horse  as  we  have  to  the  speedy  animal,  we  would  have  been  at  the  top 
in  form,  style,  action  and  possibly  size  and  color,  before  this  time.  The 
introduction  of  the  foreign  coach  stallions  so  far,  has  not  seemed  to 
work  well  with  the  mares  of  this  country,  and  about  twenty  years'  ex- 
perience demonstrates  that  from  such  stallions  as  have  been  imported 
and  bred  to  the  mares  of  the  country,  we  can  find  but  very  few  speci- 
mens that  meet  the  demands  of  the  coach  markets. 


Cut  No.  i8. 
PILOT  BOY  AND  AMELIA,  2:0934. 

The  outline  sketch  here  presented,  cut  No.  18,  is  that  of  Pilot  Boy, 
2:09^4,  and  Amelia,  2:09^4,  both  by  Pilot  Medium.  1597,  by  Happy  Me- 
dium, 400,  by  Hainbletonian,  10.  The  dam  of  Pilot  Medium  was  Tackey, 
by  Pilot,  Jr.,  12.,  grand-dam,  Jenny  Lind,  by  Bellfounder. 


HORSE     vSENSE, 


27 


AMERICAN    BRED    LIGHT   ROAD    HORSES. 

The  light  road  horses  of  America  excel  every  other  country,  and  are 
acknowledged  to  be  the  best  in  the  world  for  the  purpose.  While  the 
coach  and  heavy  carriage  horses  are  expected  to  have  high  action,  that 
of  the  typical  every  day  road  horse  must  be  of  the  low  gaited  order  and 
should  not  be  too  heavy.  Weight  beyond  the  necessities  of  the  load 
to  be  carried,  is  just  so  much  dead  weight  to  be  carried  by  the  horses 
themselves,  to  say  nothing  of  the  extra  amount  of  feed  of  support  for 
the  extra  live  weight  to  be  sustained. 


Cut  No.  ig. 
AMERICAN    COACH    OR    CARRIAGE    HORSES. 

The  illustration  here  shown,  cut  No.  19,  is  that  of  a  team  of  half 
brothers,  bred  in  about  the  manner  indicated,  and  were  owned  by  a 
friend  of  the  author,  and  are  very  hard  to  surpass  in  many  particulars. 

AMERICAN  BRED  HEAVY  CARRIAGE  HORSES. 

Wherever  the  trotting  bred  horses  of  this  country  have  attained  the 
size  and  possess  the  style  and  finish  required,  they  come  nearer  meet- 
ing the  wants  of  the  park  and  city  riders  and  drivers  than  anything  that 
has  yet  been  imported  from  other  countries.  They  possess  the  intelli- 
gence, spirit,  endurance  and  speed,  to  satisfy  the  most  critical  buyers. 

From  the  fact  that  our  attention  has  been  attracted  to  that  of  speed 
rather  than  style  and  size,  is  the  principal  reason  why  we  have  so  few 


28  HORSE     SENSE. 

high  class  carriage  horse?.  Whenever  we  turn  our  attention  to  the 
carriage  horse  specifically,  then  we  will  attract  the  attention  of  every 
other  country  in  this  class  of  home  production. 

THE  DRAFT  HORSE  IS  A  WONDERFUL  TYPE  OF  SEVERAL 
BREEDS. 


?«=^ 


^*t 


Cut   Nn.  20. 
DRAFT  STALLION  (Clydesdale). 

Cut  20  shows  a  draft  stallion  of  the  type  (not  necessarily  the  breed) 
that  is  demanded  in  the  markets.  He  has  a  strong  organization,  a  good 
feeder,  level  headed,  and  shoulder  that  the  collar  can  be  made  to  fit  well. 
His  carriage  is  quite  high,  but  it  is  at  the  expense  of  his  back,  he  is  a 
little  down  there.  He  has  a  good  "dinner  basket,"  consequently  good 
digestion  with  ample  exercise. 

Any  of  the  draft  breeds  (Percherons,  French  Draft,  Clydes, 
Shires,  Belgians,  or  English  Draft),  with  the  required  size,  sound  and 
level  headed,  meet  with  a  ready  sale  in  the  markets. 

THE  BREEDING  OF  ANCESTRY  SHOULD  BE  IN  HARMONY 
WITH  THE  INDIVIDUAL. 

What  we  wish  to  particularly  impress  upon  the  mind  of  the  reader 
is,  that  the  selection  of  the  type  of  animals  for  a  special  purpose  is  of 
the  utmost  importance  and  be  sure  that  the  breeding  of  the  ancestry 
is  in  harmony  with  the  selection  of  the  particular  type  for  many  gen- 
erations back.       Combine  thtse  two  and  then  there  is  but  little  specula- 


IIOKSE     SENSE. 


29 


tion  as  to  the  results  in  the  production  and  maintainance  of  that  type,  all 
other  things  being  equal. 

CROSSING  OF  BREEDS  OR  FAMILIES  SHOULD  BE  OF  THE 
SAME  GENERAL  TYPE. 

While  we  would  always  advocate  the  adherance  to  the  selected  breed, 
if  crosses  are  to  be  made,  our  advice  would  be  to  keep  in  the  line  of 
the  type,  i.  e.,  if  the  selection  is  for  drdft  purposes,  cross  Shires  with 
Clydesdales;  Percherons  with  French  Draft;  SufYoik  Punch  with  Bel- 
gians,, for  the  best  results,  but  any  of  these  will  be  far  preferable  with 
one  another  than  to  cross  any  of  these  with  the  Hambletonians,  Morgans, 
Mambrino  Chiefs — any  of  the  road  types  or  thoroughbreds,  must  be  de- 
plored as  tending  to  a  loss  of  identity  of  both  types  for  breeding  pur- 
poses with  the  offspring. 


Cut  No.  21. 
DRAFT  BROOD  MARE  (Clydesdale). 

Cut  21  represents  the  draft  mare  suitable  to  mate  this  Clydesdale  stal- 
lion. She  is  strong  at  every  point,  and  if  the  breeding  and  character- 
istics of  both  their  antecedents  are  of  the  same  order,  good  results  for  the 
market  of  draft  stock  would  likely  follow. 

While  we  have  many  mo.'^t  excellent  Clydesdale  horses  in  this  coun- 
try from  the  best  selected  imported  animals,  there  are  others  that  are 
a  disgrace  to  any  country:  lacking  quality,  conformation  and  constitu- 
tion.     Don't  let  us  pin   our  faith  to  any   breed  or  type  unless  the  re- 


30 


HORSE     SENSE. 


quisites  of  good  horses  are  to  be  found  in  the  animals.  We  must  de- 
vote the  required  time  and  attention  to  sum  up  the  whole  matter  in  horse 
production.  The  "happy  go  lucky"  style  will  never  do  to  follow 
throughout. 

DRAFT  STALLION  (Percheron). 

This  Percheron  stallion,  cut  No.  22.  is  one  of  the  best  specimens  of 
the  breed  that  is  to  be  found.  He  was  imported  by  the  late  Leonard 
Johnson,  of  Nortbfield.  Alinn.,  and  took  the  first  prize  at  the  state  fair 
until  he  was  barred,  and  at  many  other  fairs  where  he  was  shown.  While 
he  weighed  about  a  ton,  he  was  as  light  a  mover  as  the  ordinary  1,200 
pounder.  He  is  almost  perfect  at  every  point  and  shows  what  may 
be  done  by  careful  selection  in  the  breeding  relation. 


Cut  No.  22. 
GILBERT  (Percheron). 

The  devotees  of  the  respective  draft  breeds  make  strong  claims  for 
their  preference,  but  a  close  observation  of  many  years  reveals  the  fact 
that  good  and  bad  are  to  be  found  in  both  the  Percheron  and  Clydesdale, 
and  the  "kickers"  against  either  breed  are  generally  prejudiced.  Let 
us  always  be  frank  and  recognize  the  good  horse  as  an  individual,  of 
whatever  breed  he  may  be,  and  discard  the  seriously  defective. 

DRA.FT  BROOD  MARE  (Percheron). 

This  Percheron  brood  mare,  cut  No.  23,  like  the  stallion,  is  about  as 
near  the  right  form,  style  and  finish  as  any  one  could  ask.  She  is  not 
only   strong  and  vigorous,  but   she  shows   quality  and   her   foal   at  foot, 


HORSE     SENSE. 


31 


shows  licr  ability  as  a  breeder.       Pcrlection  in  I'orni  and  ability  in  nerve 
force  are  essentials  that  never  should  be  overlooked  in  the  brood  mare. 


Cut  No.  23. 
PERFECTION  AND  FOAL. 

The  article  on  the  selection  of  the  brood  mare,  to  be  seen  in  Chapter 
XIII.,  deals  with  this  subject  at  sutScient  length,  to  give  the  student  aw 
insight  to  the  subject  for  comparative  observations:  the  only  method' 
of  arriving  at  sound  conclusions.  Facts  are  what  we  want,  one  of 
which,  when  fully  demonstrated,  will  overturn  all  the  theories  opposedl 
thereto. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

JUDGING  HORSES. 


Cut  No.  24. 
THE  SIDE  VIEW. 

Three  positions  are  required  to  show  the  horse  to  the  best  advantage. 
From  the  side  view,  cut  No.  24,  we  show  his  length,  height,  style  and 
side  appearance  of  the  legs  and  feet. 

The  front  view,  cut  No.  25,  shows  the  breadth  of  forehead,  width  of 
chest  and  extension  forward  of  breast  bone,  width  of  forearms,  breadth 
of  knees,  size  and  form  of  feet,  whether  they  toe  in  or  toe  out,  and 
whether  the  front  legs  are  too  close  together  or  too  far  apart. 

The  rear  view  is  equally  important  to  show  the  formation  of  croup, 
with  width  and  strength  of  quarters  and  gaskins,  the  relative  position 
of  the  hind  legs,  etc. 

The  views  herewith  given  are  of  a  three-year-old  imported  Clydes- 
dale stallion,  weighing   1,700  pounds. 


HOKSE     SENSE. 


33 


Cut  No.  25. 
THE  FRONT  AND  REAR  VIEW. 

SCORE    CARD   FOR    JUDGING    DRAFT    HORSES    ON    A   SCAX.E    OF   100 

POINTS. 

GENERAL  CHARACTERISTICS.      15  POINTS. 

Height— Hands   high,    measured   or   estimated,   16   hands   the    mini- 

mum^   2  

Weight— Weighed  or  estimated,   1,500  pounds   the  minimum    2  

Form— Symmetry,    smooth,   massive,   legs  well   under   body    3  

Quality— Firm  flesh,  dense  bones,  large  tendons,  hair  and  skin  fine..  3  

Temperament— Good  disposition,   courageous,   active  for   size    3  

Color- Bay,  black,  sorrel,  gray,  roan  and  cream  2  


—  15 
FEET     AND     LEGS-"RUNNING     GEAR"-MEANS     OF     LOCOMOTION. 

45  POINTS. 
Feet— Large,     uniform  size,     smooth,   dense    horn,     concave    sole, 

strong  bars,   large  ela.stic  frog,   wide  upright   heels    4       

Pasterns— Sloping,  strong  and  springy,  never  upright  or  straight..  4       

Fetlocks— Wide  and  straight,   never  turning  toes  in   our  out  3        

Cannons— Short,    clean    and    wide,    with    strong  tendons    3        

Knees— Wide,  well  defined,  strong,  straight,  and  square  to  front  ..  3        

Hocks— Wide,   straight,    strong  and  clear  of  "puffs"    4        

Forearms— Medium    length,    heavy    muscled    and     well     braced    at 

chest     3        

Gaskins— (Lower  thighs)  wide  and  heavy  muscled  inside  and  out  ..  3        

Arms- Short  and  rather  straight,  strongly  supported  at  shoulder  ..  3       


34  HORSE    SENSE. 

Thighs— Deep   and   muscular,   well   filled   in  angle   3       

Shoulders— Rather  straight,  heavy  muscled  into  back  3        

Quarters— Wide  and  massive  for  lifting  heavy  loads 3       

Hips— Smooth,   wide  and  level,  neither  higher  than  the  other 3       

Croup— Wide  and  muscular,  tail,  strongly  set  and  well  carried 3        

BODY— (MIDDLE    PIECE)— SOURCE  OF   HEAT    AND 
POWER.     15    POINTS. 

Chest— Wide  and  deep,  extending  well  forward,  large  girth 4       

Ribs— Well  sprung,  horizontally  from  spine  and  close  together 3        

Back— Short,   straight   and   heavily   muscled 3       

Loin— Wide,  deep  and  smooth,  may  be  a  little  arched 3        

Underline— Long,  but  low  at  the  flank 2        

—  15 

HEAD  AND  NECK-SEAT   OF   INTELLIGENCE,    SPIRIT   AND 
STYLE.     20  POINTS. 

Head— Lean  and  straight,  jaws  strong,  wide  and  well  spread 3       

Forehead— Wide   between    the   eyes,    but    not    "dished" 3        

Eyes— Large  and  full,  clear  and  bright,  but  mild 4       

Ears- Medium  size,   pointed,   well  set   and  active 3        

Muzzle— Fine,   nostrils  good  size,   lips  thin  and  compressed 3        

Neck— Broad  and  muscular,  not  too  thick  at  shoulder,  good  crest..    4        

—  20 

PERFORMANCE— ABILITY  TO  DO  REQUIRED  WORK  WITH 

EASE.    5   POINTS. 
ACTION— Strong,  vigorous  walk,  strong  line  movement  at  the  trot    5       

—  100 
NOTE.— After  the  student  has  made  himself  well  acquainted  with  the 
several  parts  of  the  horse,  he  may  then  group  each  division  and  arrive  at 
practically  the  same  result  very  rapidly.  A  general  knowledge  of  horses  is 
good,  but  it  is  very  important  that  each  part  be  studied  in  detail,  noting 
their   strength   as  well   as  their  relative   value   to   other  parts. 

SCORE  CARD  FOR  JUDGING  I>TGHT  HORSES  ON  A  SCALE  OF  100 
POINTS. 
GENERAL   CHARACTERISTICS.    15  POINTS. 

Height— Hands  high,   measured   or  estimated,  16  hands   the  limit..    2       

Weight— Weighed  or  estimated,  1,200  pounds  being  the  limit 2        

Form— Symmetry,  smooth,  stylish  and  legs  well  under  the  body...    3        

Quality— Firm  flesh,  dense  bones,  strong,  well  defined  tendons,  half 

and  skin  fine  and  soft,  yielding  to  the  touch 3        

Temperament— Good    disposition,    courageous   and    active    but    not 

nervous  3       

Color— Bay.  chestnut,  black,  brown,  sorrel,  roan,  gray  and  cream..    2       

—  15 
FEET   AND   LEGS— "RUNNING    GEAR"— MEANS    OF 

LOCOMOTION.    45    POINTS. 
Feet— Good  size  with  upright  walls,  dense,  smooth  horn,  concave 

sole,   strong  bars,  large  elastic  frog,  wide  upright  heels 4       

Pasterns— Sloping  about  45  degrees,  never  upright  or  straight 5       

Fetlocks— Ankles  wide  and  straight,  not  turning  the  toes 3       

Cannons— Short,  clean  and  wide,  showing  strong  tendons  and  cords    2       

Knees— Wide,  strong,  clean,  deep,  straight  and  square  to  front 3       

Hocks— Wide,  clean  cut,  moderate  angle  and  free  from  "puffs"....    3        

Forearm— Long,  well  muscled,  wide  and  well  graced  at  chest 3        

Gaskins— (Lower  thighs)   wide  and  muscular  inside  and  out 3        

Arms- Short,  and  sloping  to  the  front,  well  muscled 3        

Thighs— Long,  deep  and  muscular,  well  spread,  leaving  open  angle    3        

Shoulders— Sloping,  smooth,    muscular,  extending   into   back 3        


HORSE     SENSE.  35 


Quarters— Wide,  deep  and  heavily  muscled,  propelling  power 3       

Hips— Smooth,   wide  and  level,   neither  higher  than   the  other 2       

Croup- Long,    wide   and  muscular,   not  r.teep   or   too   tlat 3        

Tail— Well  supplied  with  hair,  carried  high  and  straight 2       

—  45 

BODY— (MIDDLE   PIECE)-SOURCE    OF   HEAT   AND   POWER. 
l.'^  POINTS. 

Chest— Deep  and  wide,  extending  well  to  the  front,  large  girth 4       

Ribs— Long,  well  sprung,  close  together  and  close  to  hips 3       

Back— Short,   straight   and   muscular,   broad 3       

Loin— Wide,  deep  and  smooth,  may  be  a  little  arched 3       

Underline— Long  and  well  down  at  the  tianli 2       

—  15 
HEAD  AND   NECK-SEAT   OF  INTELLIGENCE,   SPIRIT  AND 

STYLE.     20  POINTS. 

Head— Lean  and  straight  (not  Roman),  jaws  wide  and  well  spread  3  

Forehead— Wide  between  the  eyes  and  full— not  dished 3  

Eyes— Large,  full,  clear  and  bright,  and  of  dark  or  hazel  color 4  

Ears— Medium  size,  slim,  fine  pointed,  carried  erect  and  active 3  

Muzzle— Fine  nostrils,  large  and  thin,  lips  thin,  even  and  firm 3  

Neck— Muscular,  high  crest,  fine  at  throat,  wind  pipe  large 4  

—  20 
PERFORMANCE— ABILITY     TO     MOVE     WITH     STRENGTH, 

EASE  AND  GRACE.    5  POINTS. 
Action— Strong,   spirited  walk,  rapid,  bold  and  frictionless  trot  In 
line  movement— no  "paddling,"   "fanning"  or  "cuffing"  in  front 
or  behind,  nor  "rolling"   motion 5       

—  5 

100 

NOTE.— The  two  score  cards  given  will  Illustrate  the  critical  examina- 
tions that  horses  undergo  in  the  markets,  as  well  as  the  nice  distinctions 
which  are  made  at  fairs  or  in  the  selection  by  breeders.  By  this  method  of 
judging,  the  horse  is  scanned  point  by  point,  and  all  details  of  the  several 
pans  are  carefully  estimated  as  to  strength  and  proportion,  and  when  these 
are  well  understood  then  they  can  be  rapidly  grouped. 


CHAPTER   V. 

EXAMINING    HORSES    FOR    SOUNDNESS,    BY    GOOD    AU- 
THORITY. 

SOUND  HORSES. 

Absolute  soundness  rarely,  if  ever,  exists.  This  being  the  case,  we 
have'  to  be  contented  with  "practical  soundness,"  which  is  the  nearest 
approach  to  a  pe'-fectly  sound  horse. 

A  sound  horse  is  one  that  is  free  from  all  disease  and  has  nothing- 
about'iiini  that  interferes  or  is  likely  to  interfere  with  his  usefulness, 
or  depreciate  his  value. 

PRACTICALLY  AND  SERVICEABLY  SOUND  HORSES.       \ 

As  practical  soundness  is  what  we  have  to  deal  with  in  examining  a 
horse,  it  must  appear,  first,  that  he  is  free  from  all  disease  that  renders 
him  unable  to  do  his  kind  of  work  as  a  sound  horse  should;  second, 
that  certain  conditions  are  not  present  which,  in  a  longer  or  shorter 
time,  may  render  him  unfit  to  do  the  work  of  a  sound  horse;  third,  that 
nothing  exists  that  tends  to  depreciate  the  value  of  the  animal  as  com- 
pared to  a  sound  horse.  •  ' 

How  is  it  best  to  proceed  to  examine  the  animal?  We  must  bear 
in  mind  that  a  horse  may  be  temporarily  unsound  or  permanently  un- 
sound. 

TEMPORARY   UNSOUNDNESS    CONSIDERED. 

Temporary  unsoundness  may  include  certain  diseases,  of  which,  after 
the  animal  has  recovered,  little  or  no  trace  remains;  it  also  includes 
certain  forms  of  lameness,  as  interfering,  slight  sprains,  etc.,  which  sub- 
side in  a  short  while.  In  examination  it  is  necessary  to  look  for  dis- 
ease, malformations,  etc.,  and  not  for  soundness. 

EXAMINATION  AT  REST  AND  IN  MOTION. 

The  horse  to  be  examined  should  be  seen,  first,  at  rest,  in  and  out 
of  the  stall;  second,  in  motion,  both  when  warmed  up  and  when  cooled 
off. 

WATCH  THE  HORSE  CAREFULLY  IN  THE  STALL  FOR  HAB- 
ITS. 

Ascertain  how  the  animal  feeds,  while  at  rest  in  the  stall — if  he  cribs, 
sucks  wind  or  weaves.      Notice  his  position  of  standing  and  watch  him 


HdRSK     SENSE.  37 

while  backing:  out  of  the   stall,  to  see  whether  there  is  dragging  of  the 
feet,   or  other   peculiar  actions. 

On  the  floor,  have  nothing  on  but  a  halter.  Take  a  general  glance 
at  the  animal,  noting  the  position  of  the  extremities,  color,  size,  and 
general  outline.  Then  proceed  to  examine,  part  by  part,  commencing 
at  the  head,  not  forgetting  to  compare  one  side  with  the  other  as  the 
examination  progresses.  Nothing  should  be  overlooked,  and  when  the 
examination   is   completed,   a   definite   conclusion   is   easily  arrived   at. 

EXAMINATION   OF   THE   HORSE'S   HEAD. 

In  examining-  the  head  note  the  shape,  the  conditions  of  the  bones 
of  the  face,  the  shape  and  condition  of  the  eyes,  the  pupils,  the  ears, 
the  mucous  membrane  of  the  nasal  cavity  (noting  the  color  and  looking 
for  ulceration,  growths,  etc.);  then  examine  the  contents  of  the  mouth, 
the  age,  shape,  size  and  wearing  surfaces  of  the  teeth,  and  examine  the 
bars  for  fractures;  and  then  pass  to  the  inter-maxillary  space,  feeling  the 
pulse,  the  conditioii  of  the  lower  jaw,  whether  thickened  or  thinned; 
examine  the  glands  in  this  region,  then  the  poll,  the  throat,  the  condi- 
tion of  the  glands,  not  forgetting  to  cause  the  animal  to  cough  and  re- 
membering the  kind  of  cough;  pass  along  the  neck,  nots  the  condition 
of  the  mane,  the  jugular  grove,  the  trachea. 

EXAMINATION      FOR       FRACTURES,      HERNIA,      TUMORS, 
CURBS,  SPAVINS,  ETC. 

Look  over  the  shoulders  for  marks  of  setons,  wasting  of  muscles; 
the  elbows  for  capped  elbow;  the  knee  for  fractures,  inflammation,  etc.; 
the  shin  bones  for  splints;  the  tendons  for  their  condition;  the  fetlock 
for  fractures,  swellings,  scars  of  neurotomy,  etc.;  then  look  for  side 
bones,  ring  bones,  etc.;  and  finally  the  general  outline  of  the  feet,  as 
regards  size,  shape,  etc.,  and  in  particular  the  toe  cracks,  quarter  cracks, 
results  of  laminitis,  navicular  disease,  etc. 

EXAMINATION  OF  THE  HORSE'S  BODY. 

Next  take  the  body  under  observation,  remembering  to  examine  both 
sides;  first  the  withers,  looking  for  marks  of  setons,  swellings,  etc.;  then 
the  condition  of  the  ribs;  test  the  heart  and  lungs;  look  at  the  abdomen 
for  hernia;  the  flank,  noting  the  respirations,  whether  quickened,  slow, 
irregular  and  the  like. 

EXAMINE   FROM   THE    REAR   FOR   HIP   FRACTURES,   TAIL, 
STIFLES,  ETC. 

Next  stand  behind  the  animal  and  examine  the  hips  for  fractures 
and  swellings;  then  the  hip  joints  (remembering  to  compare  one  side 
with  the  other):  examine  the  tail  to  see  if  false;  look  under  the  tail  for 
tumors;  the  flank  for  hernia  and  tumors;  the  stifles  for  swellings,  dis- 
locations; the  hocks  for  spavins,  thoroughpins,  curbs;  then  pass  down- 
ward,  noting  the  condition  of  the  parts  in  the  front  limbs. 


38  HORSE     SENSE. 

EXAMINATION     FOR     LINE     MOVEMENT    AT     DIFFERENT 

GAITS. 

Have  the  animal  trotted  by  the  halter  in  as  straight  a  line  as  possible 
in  a  slow,  easy  trot,  allowing  the  horse  about  one  foot  of  rope,  so  as 
not  to  interfere"  with  the  action.  The  animal  should  be  trotted  away 
from  the  examiner,  at  which  time  the  movements  of  the  hind  legs  may 
be  noted,  and  when  trotted  towards  him  the  movements  of  the  front 
legs. 

EXAMINE  WHEN  THE  HORSE  IS  WARM  AND  THEN  WHEN 
COOL. 

When  the  animal  is  warmed  up,  lameness  may  not  be  shown;  while 
if  cooled  off,  it  manifests  itself,  and  vice  versa.  Next  have  the  animal 
galloped  to  test  his  wind;  see  if  the  breathing  is  fast,  irregular  or  noisy. 
D  onot  forget  to  examine  the  eyes. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

EXAMINATION  FOR  LAMENESS. 

FIND  CAUSE  OF  LAMENESS. 

Among  the  causes  of  lameness  are  weak  conformation  of  bones,  mus- 
cles, etc.,  tissues  being  too  frail  to  stand  the  strain;  the  fetlock  may  be 
too  long,  causing  an  extra  stram  on  the  tendons;  the  hock  may  be  too 
angular,  predisposing  the  animal  to  curb,  or  too  straight  up  and  down, 
predisposing  to  ^pavin;  the  hoof  may  show  too  high  a  heel,  favoring 
contraction:  or  too  low  a  heel,  favoring  corns,  puncture,  bruises,  in- 
ferior shoeing — that  is,  fitting  a  shoe  while  too  hot;  having  the  shoe 
press  upon  the  sole  instead  of  the  walls;  overtaxing  muscles,  tendons 
and  ligaments  by  pulling  a  heavy  load  over  rough  and  muddy  roads; 
constant  jerking  and  blon-s  from  the  wagon  pole  and  harness — all  of 
these  are  causes  of  lameness. 

FIND  WHERE  AND  HOW  THE  HORSE'S  LAMENESS  AF- 
FECTS HIM. 

How  to  discover  a  horse  is  lame  or  where  he  is  lame  is  not  so  easy 
a  matter  as  some  may  imagine.  It  is  best  to  observe  the  animal  first 
standing.  If  the  horse  points  persistently — that  is,  places  the  foot  in 
front  of  the  normal  position— the  lameness  is  very  apt  to  be  below  the 
fetlock.  If  the  knee  is  effected  it  is  often  kept  in  a  bent  condition,  while 
in  shoulder  and  fetlock  lameness  the  toe  generally  rests  upon  the  ground. 
After  examining  the  horse  standing,  allow  him  to  go  in  a  slow  trot  to 
and  from  the  observer,  holding  the  halter  strap  about  a  foot  and  a  half 
from  the  head. 

WATCH  THE  HORSE'S  HEAD  AND  EARS  WHEN  IN  MOTION. 

Watch  carefully  the  animal's  head  and  ears  while  he  is  trotting  to- 
ward you.  He  will  attempt  to  protect  the  lame  leg  by  throwing  the 
most  of  his  weight  on  the  sound  one,  and  if  the  lameness  is  in  front  will 
nod  his  head  when  the  weight  is  thrown  upon  the  sound  one. 

WATCH  HOW  HE  PROTECTS  THE  LAME  LEG. 

When  the  animal  trots  away  from  you.  if  the  lameness  is  behind,  he 
will  attempt  to  protect  the  lame  leg  by  throwing  his  weight  heavier  on 
the  sound  ore. 


40  HORSE     SENSE. 

Having  determined  which  leg  is  lame,  the  next  thing  is  to  locate  the 
seat  of  the  lameness. 
WHEN  IN   DOUBT,  MOVE  A  SOUND  HORSE  WITH  THE 
LAME  ONE. 

If  there  is  any  doubt  about  whether  the  animal  is  using  its  legs  prop- 
erly, take  a  sound  animal  and  trot  it  up  and  down,  and  compare  its 
actions  with  those  of  the  lame  one 

SHOULDER    LAMENESS   DETECTED   BY   LIMITED   ACTION. 

Shoulder  lameness  is  evident  by  limited  action  of  the  entire  shoulder. 
The  animal  seems  anxious  to  keep  stationary,  and  in  bringing  the  leg 
forward  does  so  by  an  outward  swinging  motion.  The  horse  that  is 
kne^lame  aims  to  keep  the  knee  as  stifT  as  possible,  and  in  moving 
the  leg  forward  bring  the  shoulder  muscles  into  play.  The  leg  is  ad- 
vanced in  a  dragging  manner,  the  tot^  is  hardly  leaving  the  ground  and 
the  leg  is  bent  as  little  as  possible. 

JERKY  ACTION  IS  MANIFEST  IN  FETLOCK  LAMENESS. 

Fetlock  lameness  is  manifested  by  a  short,  jerky  step,  the  animal  step- 
ping on  the  toe  or  often  hopping  on  three  legs.  Lameness  caused  by 
sore  or  enlarged  tendons  is  similar  to  shoulder  lameness,  and  is  best 
examined  with  the  animal  at  rest,  as  then  the  swelling,  heat  or  pain  is 
generally  detected  along  the  course  of  these  parts. 

GREAT  CARE  IN  EXAMINING  FOR  FOOT  LAMENESS. 

It  is  more  difficult  to  diagnose  foot  lameness.  The  best  thing  is  to 
pick  up  the  foot  and  tap  it  lightly  with  a  hammer  and  notice  the  flinch- 
ing when  the  sore  spot  is  touched.  If  the  animal  is  nervous,  it  will 
require  great  care  to  distinguish  between  the  actual  pain  and  the  nerv- 
ousness. 

HOPPING  MOTION  IS   SEEN  IN   HIP  LAMENESS. 

Hip  limeness  is  known  by  a  peculiar  hopping  gait.  The  animal, 
while  trotting,  turns  the  hock  of  the  lame  leg  in  and  stifle  out. 

DRAGGING   MOTION   IN    STIFLE   LAMENESS. 

Stifle  limeness  shows  itself  by  the  difficulty  the  animal  experiences 
in  elevating  this  part  and  bringing  it  forward,  which  is  usually  done  in  a 
dragging  fashion.  The  stifled  animal  either  has  the  lame  leg  stretched 
out  behind  or  stands  firmly  on  the  sole.  In  the  first  case  he  cannot 
back,  and  in  the  latter  he  cannot  move  the  lame  leg  forward. 

There  are  so  many  phases  of  lameness  and  so  much  difiference  in 
horses  about  withstanding  injury  and  pain,  or  yielding  to  the  slightest 
infliction,  that  it  makes  the  subject  of  the  examination  for  lameness  a 
most  difficult  task  to  meet  all  c.ises.  There  is  so  much  ignorance,  preju- 
dice and  egotism  connected  with  the  examination  of  the  horse  for  lame- 
ness that  the  following  is  given  as  an  offset,  and  to  somewhat  relieve  the 
mind  of  the  reader: 


HOKSH     SKNSK.  41 

A  CHAT  ON  LAMENESS. 
By   My   Old   Frienr'.    Dr.   Wm.   Dickson. 

I  could  give  you  more  than  one  technical  definition  ot  what  himcncss 
is,  but  '"a  rose"  we  are  told,  "by  any  other  name  would  hUiell  as  sweet," 
and  as  a  lame  horse  to  his  owner  means  a  iiorse  he  cannot  use.  that  de- 
scription will  fill  tlie  bin  as  well,  or  better  tiian.  any  other.  I  liave  no 
intention  of  wanderinii  into  a  disciuisition  on  the  '"isms"  and  ""ologies," 
and  involving  myself  and  yi-u  in  a  mist  of  unintelligable  technicalities. 
I  heard  a  lecture  the  other  day  on  "Scientific  Ventilation,"  and  I  have  been 
tired  of  abstruce  science  ever  since.  The  lecturer  was  excessively  learned, 
and  never  used  a  simple  term  when  a  scientific  one  would  do.  His  point 
was  to  show  the  hurtful  eiYect  of  carbonic  acid  gas,  which  he  styled 
C-O-2,  on  animal  life — the  animal  experimented  on  being  a  cat.  Warm- 
ing with  his  subject,  the  professor,  a  man  of  very  imposing  appearance, 
by  the  way.  fairly  revelled  in  a  mist  of  chemical  technicalities — disap- 
peared to  his  boots,  in  a  cloud  of  scientific  formulas,  and  all  the  ordinary 
mind  carried  home  with  it  was  the  fact  that  a  certain  amount  of  C-O-2 
would    kill    C-A-T! 

Now,  I  don't  propose  to  fall  into  any  such  a  trap  as  this.  We,  none 
of  us,  want  lame  horses,  of  course;  but  we  are  all  of  us  liable  to  get  them 
once  in  a  while. 

When  you've  got  a  lame  horse,  the  first  thing  to  determine  is  which 
leg  he  is  lame  on;  and  this  is  not  always  as  easy  as  it  looks,  except  in 
cases  of  severe  lameness.  Ninety  per  cent  of  all  lameness  occurs  in  the 
feet.  Itinerant  horse  c-anks,  whose  natural  prey  the  confiding  farmer 
seems  to  be,  usually  have  some  favorite  and  oftentimes  unlikely  locality 
to  which  they  ascrible  all  lameness.  Why  it  should  be  so,  I  don't  know, 
but  the  most  common  is  the  shoulder.  Now,  this  is  just  the  last  place 
I  look  for  lameness,  unless  signs  are  particularly  diognostic.  Actual 
shoulder  lameness  is  easily  told  fro--:!  any  other — the  horse  invariably 
advances  his  leg  semi-circularly.   as   a   man   does  his   wooden  leg. 

The  sense  of  touch  which  can  detect  any  unnatural  heat  is  the  best 
means  of  locating  trouble. 

FOOT   FOUNDER, 

Or  Larniniiis  and  Navicular  disease,  are  largely  responsible  for  the 
abominable  practice  of  cutting  out  the  sole  and  paring  the  frog  on  (?) 
approved  principles  in  the  latter;  as  well  as  the  barbarous  practice  of 
nailing  on  a  shoe  two  sizes  two  small,  and  then  chopping  off  the  foot  to 
fit   it.     Does   inflammation    occur   in    the    hind   feet? 

It  is  most  common  in  the  front  feet,  but  sometimes  it  occurs  in  all 
four  feet.  If  it  is  severe  you  can  readily  detect  it  by  trying  to  back  up 
the  animal,  and  you  will  find  that  he  moves  very  reluctantly. 

Are  aloes  a  good  remedy  for  this  disease? 

A  violent  purgative  would  be  apt  to  leave  you  without  any  necessity 
for  further  treatment  and  also  without  a  horse. 


42  HORSE     SENSE. 

RING  BONES  AND   SIDE  BONES. 

Ring  bones  are  the  result  of  disease  of  the  bony  structure  and  side 
bones  of  the  fibro-elastic  cartlages,  whose  office  it  is  to  prevent  undue 
expansion  of  the  feet  at  the  heels. 

Can  ring  bone  be  cured?  Sometimes  they  are  cured.  That  is  to 
say,  the  lameness  disappears.  The  best  place,  however  to  have  ring- 
bones or  spavins  is  on  another  man's  horse.  "Cranks"  will  modestly 
admit  their  inability  to  cure  either  one  or  the  other,  but  they  can  "kill" 
them,  every  time.  This  is  as  a  rule,  absolute  nonsense.  Lameness  from 
spavin  is  often  got  over  in  young  horses,  but  rarely  in  old  ones.  Rest 
is  the  main  factor  in  the  cure.  Firing  and  blister  will  expedite  the  cure. 
Anchylosis  or  growing  of  the  joint  solid  is  what  happens.  Some  of  the 
gliding  motion  of  the  lower  portion  of  the  hock  is  lost,  but  the  horse  is 
practically  as  good  as  ever.  I  use  one  ounce  of  biniodide  of  mercury  to 
eight  of  lard  as  a  blister.  There  are  a  heap  of  things  that  a  farmer  can 
do  for  himself,  but  when  an  animal  is  really  ill,  always  get  the  best 
qualified  man  available  to  treat  it;  and  when  you  get  his  advice  and  pay 
for  it,  follow  it;  don't  keep  a  dog  and  do  the  barking  yourself. 

SPLINT. 

What  do  you  say  about  a  splint  that  does  not  lame  a  horse?  Take 
my  advice  and  leave  it  alone.  Never  hold  a  funeral  until  the  corpse  is 
read. 

What  liniment  is  good  for  sprains?  A  very  simple  lotion  for 
sprains  and  also  for  flesh  wounds,  is  one  ounce  of  sugar  of  lead  and  six 
drams  of  sulphate  of  zinc,  in  a  quart  of  water. 

WOLF-TEETH. 

Do  wolf-teeth  cause  blindness?     No,  sir;  they  do  not. 

BOTS. 

Bots  rarely  harm  the  horse,  his  stomach  is  their  natural  winter  resi- 
dence. 

CURB. 

A  curb  is  not  a  bone  disease  at  all.  It  is  a  sprain  o.f  a  ligament, 
usiially  it  lames  only  young  horses.  Rest  and  a  high  heeled  shoe  with  a 
cooling  lotion  in  the  inflamatory  stage.  Hand  rubbing  or  a  blister  will 
remove  the  thickening  of  the  parts,  after  inflammation  subsides. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

SELECTING  THE  STALLION. 

As  a  public  teacher  in  farmers'  institutes  for  the  past  thirteen  years,  I 
have  been  very  careful  to  treat  this  subject  in  so  plain  and  careful  a 
manner  that  it  would  not  be  misleading.  My  advice  always  is,  to  first 
decide  upon  the  type  or  class  of  horses  to  be  produced,  and  then  start 
out  with  the  full  determination  of  finding  the  ideal  individual  as  near  as 
possible  in  every  particular,  remembering  always  that  the  sire  is  con- 
sidered one-half  of  the  herd. 

SIZE  AND  FORM  FOR  THE  PURPOSES  REQUIRED. 

He  should  have  the  desired  size,  form,  style  and  carriage  to  meet  the 

requirements  expected. 

PROPER  DEVELOPMENT  OF  FIRST  CONSIDERATION. 

He  should  have  the  very  best  of  feet  and  legs,  and  above  all,  they 
should  be  hung  to  the  body  properly  for  easy  and  frictionless  move- 
ment (see  the  points  in  examination  of  the  feet  and  legs  illustrated  in 
Chapter  II.)  lie  should  be  large  around  the  girth  (vital  powers)  with  a 
good  middle-piece  (^digestive  capacity),  broad,  strong  loin,  muscular 
quarters,  broad  gaskins  and  broad,  clean  hocks.  Flis  back  should  be 
short  in  comparison  with  length  of  the  underline.  His  shoulders  mus- 
cular and  well  defined,  fore-arms  well  muscled  and  the  front  legs  not  too 
wide  apart  nor  too  close  together.  Flis  neck  should  be  of  good  length 
and  width,  but  not  too  thick.  His  head  clean  and  set  on  the  neck  at  a 
graceful  angle,  with  the  jaw-bones  well  spread,  giving  free  room  for  the 
wind-pipe.  The  eyes  should  be  full  and  clear,  with  a  kind  expression. 
The  ears  fair  length,  slim,  erect  and  active.  The  nostrils  large,  thin  and 
dilating.  The  lips  thin,  shapely  and  compressed.  His  action  should  be 
easy,  graceful  and  without  apparent  efifort  and  a  line  mover. 

INDIVIDUALITY  OF  THE  TYPE  MUST  BE  CONSIDERED. 

All  these  are  important  as  an  individual,  but  for  a  sire,  the  stallion's 
breeding  must  be  as  closely  studied  as  his  individuality,  and  for  several 
generations  back,  if  we  expect  him  to  be  successful  in  producing  what 
we  desire.  The  law  of  '"Ativism,"  "Reversion,"  ''Breeding  Back,"  etc., 
is  so  well  established  that  we  cannot  afitord  to  ignore  it,  and  no  matter 
how  fine  the  individual  may  be,  if  his  ance.>tors  did  not  possess  these  de- 
sirable characteristics,  disappointments  must  naturally  be  looked  for,  as 
they  are  about  as  sure  to  fclLpw  as  the  daj'' succeeds  the  night. 


44  HORSE     SENSE. 

SHOULD  BE  BRED  STRONGLY  IN  THE  TYPE  HE  REPRE- 
SENTS ON  BOTH  SIDES. 
The  sire  should  be  so  strongly  bred  in  a  definite  line  of  performance 
that  he  will  be  able  to  control  the  general  external  characteristics  and 
the  dam  sufficiently  well  bred  to  give  the  nerve-force,  endurance,  vigor 
and  constitution.  In  other  words,  we  must  adhere  to  a  line  of  uni- 
formity in  both  sire  and  dam  for  the  purpose  of  improvement  in  the 
breeding  relation. 

CROSS  WITH  THE  JACK  AND  THE  MARE. 

As  an  illustration  in  out-crossing  to  show  the  natural  law  of  the  sire 
controlling  the  external  characteristics  and  the  dam  the  internal,  we 
would  call  the  reader's  attention  to  that  of  the  jack  and  the  mare,  and  in 
this  cross  we  would  ask,  who  ever  saw  a  mule  that  closely  resembled  its 
dam?  Now,  use  the  thoroughbred  stallion  with  the  jenny,  and  we  have 
a  perfect  little  horse  in  external  characteristics  in  every  particular,  as 
much  so  as  that  of  the  jack  and  the  mule,  and  the  produce  in  either  case 
are  not  generally  breeders,  but  hybrids.  In  the  case  of  the  thoroughbred 
mare  and  the  jack,  we  have  the  nerve  force  of  the  thoroughbred  in  the 
mule,  which  makes  Kentucky  and  Missouri  the  famous  mule  producing 
districts. 
CROSS  WITH  THE  THOROUGHBRED   HORSE  AND  JENNY. 

In  the  case  of  the  thoroughbred  sire  and  the  jenny,  we  get  a  very 
small  animal  and,  like  its  dam,  scarcely  has  ambition  enough  to  go  in 
out  of  the  storm,  and  consequently,  comparatively  worthless.  This  same 
law  applies  to  the  crossing  of  all  animals  and  whenever  the  sire  is  the 
result  of  a  cross  of  any  kind,  he  is  almost  certain  to  be  a  failure.  He 
must  be  bred  in  a  definite  line  for  generation  after  generation,  to  be  able 
to  correct  the  external  defects  of  the  mares  he  is  bred  to.  Please  remem- 
ber that  the  selection  of  the  sire  is  of  the  most  vital  importance,  when 
it  is  considered  in  its  true  light  and  must  not  be  treated,  as  is  too  often 
the  case,  in  the  line  of  an  experiment.  We  cannot  afiford  to  be  con- 
tinually and  always  in  the  experimental  stage  with  our  horse  breeding. 
We  must  establish  principles  and  rules  of  practice  that  will  serve  as  a 
guiding  star,  to  the  unborn  horse  breeders  of  the  country. 


CHAPTER   VIII. 

WINTERING  SERVICE  STALLIONS. 

The  wintering  of  service  stallions  is  a  matter  of  more  importance  than 
it  is  usually  considered  to  be.  The  successful  wintering  of* stallions  is  the 
preparatory  stage  for  the  reproduction  of  the  species  the  next  season, 
with  a  prospect  of  improvement  of  the  race,  and  improvement  is  in- 
sured by  storing  up  and  maintaining  all  the  vigor  and  endurance  of  our 
stallions  that  the  term  implies.  The  successful  race-horse  is  made  by 
development  of  muscle,  nerve-force,  lung  power,  speed,  game  and  endur- 
ance, which  requires  time,  work,  patience  and  perseverance  by  his  trainer. 
The  successful  livery  horse  requires  as  careful  preparation  to  make  him 
prohtable  to  his  owner,  and  the  draft  horse  has  to  have  a  like  preparation 
to  withstand  the  strains  in  pulling  great  loads,  while  the  stallion,  to  be 
successful  in  the  stud  for  the  spring  season,  must  be  properly  wintered, 
if  we  would  approach  the  improvement  of  the  equine  race  that  is  aimed  at. 

CONDITION   FOR  WINTERING. 

The  stallion  should  go  into  winter  quarters  with  a  moderate  coat  of 
flesh,  not  fat,  nor  thin.  His  shoes,  if  any,  should  be  removed  and  his 
hoofs  trimmed  down  just  even  with  the  natural  untrimmed  sole  and  the 
edges  rounded  nicely  to  prevent  breaking. 

THE  I'EET  OF  THE  STALLION  REQUIRE  GREAT  CARE. 

The  stallion's  feet  should  be  cleaned  out  every  day  with  a  foot-hook 
to  prevent  foul  matter  from  collecting  about  the  frog  of  the  feet  and 
producing  "thrush,"  from  which  the  feet  become  diseased,  which  some- 
times renders  him  worthless.  The  stallion  should  have  a  roomy  box-stall 
warm  and  well  ventilated,  and  if  he  cannot  be  driven  daily,  he  should 
have  a  lari;:e  exercising  lot  in  connection,  in  which  he  can,  at  will,  run  in 
the  open  jiir.  Exercise  is  just  as  necessary  as  food  and  water  for  the 
maintainar.ee  of  activity  of  muscles,  digestion  and  nerve  force.  And  the 
stallion  thji.t  has  plenty  of  exercise,  with  kind  treatment,  will  not  become 
vicious  or  likely  to  contract  bad  habits;  but  the  stallion  confined  in  a 
dark  stable  is  very  likely  to  contract  bad  habits  and  become  troublesome 
in  some  w>y  and  useless  as  an  important  sire. 

EXERCISING  LOT  FOR  THE  STALLION  WHEN  NOT  AT 
WORK. 

The  exercising  lot  should  be  long  and  rather  narrow,  so  that  the 
stallion  wil    not  be  likely  to  run  in  a  circle,  slip  and  fall  and  injure  him- 


46 


HORSE     SENSE. 


self.  With  the  long  lot  he  will  have  a  chance  to  extend  himself,  and 
when  near  the  end  of  the  lot,  will  stop  with  his  feet  all  under  him.  which 
is  not  so  liable  to  injure  him  as  if  he  were  running  in  a  circle. 

STALLION   YARD  FENCE  OPEN  SO  HE  CAN  SEE  HIS  SUR- 
ROUNDINGS. 

The  writer  has  used  this  character  of  a  stallion  yard  and  fence  for 
years,  and  prefers  it  to  any  other,  for  the  reason  that  it  gives  the  stallion 
an  opportunity  to  see  all  that  is  going  on  around  him  and  prevents  him 
from  getting  lonesome  and  nervous  from  the  noises  round  about  him 
for  which  he  cannot  see  the  cause.  The  high,  tight  fence  is  a  veritable 
prison  to  the  ambitious  stallion  and  frequently  keeps  him  fretting  and 
worrying  to  the  extent  of  losing  in  vigor,  instead  of  maintaining  what 
he  already  has.  This  exercising  lot  should  be  separate  and  apart  from 
all  other  horses,  and  the  wide  door  of  the  stable  should  open  out  into 
this  lot  for  both  the  convenience  of  the  keeper  and  the  benefit  of  the 
stallion. 


Cut  No.  26. 
STALLION  BARN  AND  EXERCISING  LOT. 
The  '■eader  will  please  note  that  in  Cut  No.  26  the  fence  is  tight  one- 
half  its  height  (4  or  5   feet)   and   slat   fencing  above,   so  that   the   stallion 
can  see  all  that  is  going  on  outside. 

HARNESS   OR  SADDLE  WORK  FAR   PREFERABLE  TO  THE 
EXERCISING  LOT. 

While  the  exercising  lot  as  here  described  is  far  better  than  anything 
we  have  ever  used  for  voluntary  exercise,  it  must  be  remembered  that 
there  is  nothing  so  good  for  the  stallion  and  his  offspring,  as  every-day 
work  in  the  harness  or  under  the  saddle.  When  the  day  comes  that 
the  stallion,  to  get  patronage,  must  show  harness  marks  and  other  indi- 
cations that  he  is  strong  and  hardy  by  work,  then  we  will  be  on  the  high 
road  to  success  in  hcrse-breeding. 


HOKSE     SENSE.  4< 

FOOD  THROUGH  THE  WINTER. 

The  food  of  the  stallion  through  the  winter  should  be  in  keeping  with 
the  amount  of  exercise  taken;  some  stallions  will,  of  their  own  accord, 
take  ten  times  the  work  that  others  will,  and  if  he  is  driven,  the  feed 
must  correspond  to  his  work.  Don't  get  him  fat,  nor  let  him  run  down 
in  flesh.  Oats  and  bran,  with  some  corn,  if  he  suffers  with  the  cold,  will 
be  found  excellent;  corn  is  a  good  heater. 

Roots  may  also  be  given  to  advantage  in  small  quantities,  twice  or 
three  times  per  week,  but  good,  nourishing  foods,  given  often,  and  at 
regular  intervals,  in  small  quantities  at  a  time,  will  be  found  to  be  the 
best  for  the  great  drain  on  the  system  during  service  season,  of  which 
the  wintering  of  the  stallion  is  the  preparatory  stage. 

KEEP  THE  STALLION  STRONG  AND  VIGOROUS. 
If  the  stallion  is  allowed  to  run  dowm  in  flesh  and  lead  a  life  of  abso- 
lute idleness  through  the  winter  and  then  the  preparation  for  the  sea- 
son's work,  when  it  is  almost  upon  us,  is  attempted,  we  will  make  a 
great  mistake.  There  is  no  tax  upon  the  animal  economy  that  calls  into 
play  all  the  energies  and  activity  of  the  whole  system  like  that  of  each 
service  during  the  whole  season,  and  unless  the  stallion  is  well  prepared 
for  this  work,  how  can  we  reasonably  expect  him  to  be  sure  in  service 
or  improve  the  character  of  his  offspring?  We  might  as  well  expect  to 
start  in  a  racing  campaign  with  a  few  days  or  weeks  preparation,  or  to 
catch  up  the  green,  unbroken  draft  colt,  put  him  into  hard  work  at  once 
and  expect  him  to  do  as  well  as  the  old  seasoned,  well  broken  stand-by. 
It  is  frequently  observed  that  the  stallions  that  are  in  the  harness  every 
day  at  work,  are  the  surest  foal  getters,  and  further,  that  the  young 
foals  are  stronger  and  more  vigorous  than  those  of  stallions  that  have 
had  a  life  of  what  is  termed  good  care  and  feed  (shut  in  a  stall  with 
all  they  will  eat).  This,  alone,  should  be  a  lesson  to  the  observing  and 
they  should  make  exercise  a  very  important  matter  with  the  service 
stallion  in  winter  as  well  as  summer.  We  want  to  impress  the  importance 
of  exercise  as  one  of  the  most  essential  requisites  in  the  wintering  of  the 
stallion.  To  exercise  we  must  add  the  feed  required  to  keep  up  his 
vigor  and  then  we  will  have  a  stallion  in  the  spring,  that  can  go  on  the 
stand  and  do  good  service  to  his  patrons,  make  a  reputation,  and  bring 
"ducats"  to  his  owner.  The  work  of  the  stallion  should  not  be  of  the 
extremely  exhausting  character,  but  enough  to  encourage  a  good  appetite 
and  make  strong  muscles,  send  vitalizing  blood  through  his  arteries 
with  renewed  energy  and  render  his  disposition  happy  and  cheerful. 

WE   PAY   DEARLY   FOR   NEGLECT   OF   THE   STALLION    IN 
WINTER. 

The  horse  being  an  animal  of  utility,  and  his  value  being  largely  esti- 
mated by  his  activity  and  strength,  how  important  it  is  that  we  preserve 
the  strength  and  action  of  our  service  stallions  during  their  period  of 
vacation  for  renewed  service  in  the  coming  season.  This  is  a  matter  we 
cannot  ignore  with  impunity,  without  paying  dearly  for  our  negligence, 


48  HORSE     SENSE. 

in  the  confinement  of  our  stallions  during  the  winter  season.  If  we  are 
keeping  stallions,  let  us  keep  them  in  such  condition  that  they  will  be  a 
benefit,  an  improvement  to  the  future  living  horses,  or  let  us  castrate 
them  and  put  them  to  work  to  earn  the  food  they  eat,  and  thereby  reduce 
the  number  of  weakling?,  bad  dispositions  and  natural  born  cripples  now 
sired  every  season,  largely  from  the  effects  of  improper  wintering  and 
want  of  preparing  the  stallions  for  the  important  service  work  they  are 
expected  to  perform. 

ROUGH  FEED  FOR  THE  STALLION. 

The  rough  feed  of  the  stallion  during  winter,  may  be  well  cured  hay 
or  corn  fodder,  but  it  should  not  be  given  in  large  quantities  at  a  time. 
It  is  very  bad  practice  to  keep  a  manger  full  of  hay  before  the  stallion  all 
the  time,  as  it  tempts  him  to  keep  his  stomach  distended  with  innu- 
tritions food,  which  is  too  apt  to  make  him  dull  and  inactive;  to  say  noth- 
ing of  the  derangement  of  both  stomach  and  bowels  that  is  frequently  en- 
gendered by  such  a  course.  Small  quantities,  twice  a  day,  are  enough  to 
act  as  a  vehicle  for  the  more  concentrated  foods  given,  and  will,  thereby, 
aid  digestion,  whereas  too  much  rough  feed  will  be  a  hindrance  to  activity 
and    muscular    growth — the^  essential    conditions    aimed    at. 

WATERING  THE  STALLION  OF  GREAT  IMPORTANCE. 

Watering  the  stallion,  for  health  and  vigor,  is  a  matter  of  more  im- 
portance than  is  usually  considered.  The  stomach  of  the  horse  is  com- 
paratively small  (holding  about  three  and  one-half  gallons)  and  a  pailful 
or  more  of  cold  water  will  arrest  the  action  of  digestion,  instead  of 
aiding  it;  therefore,  it  is  far  better  practice  to  water  the  stallion  before 
feeding  and  give  time  enough  for  the  animal  heat  of  the  body  to  warm 
the  water,  when  it  will  pass  out  of  the  stomach  into  the  bowels  before 
giving  him  his  ration  of  grain.  If  the  stable  is  warm,  and  the  weather 
not  very  cold,  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  is  usually  sufficient  for  a  vigor- 
ous horse  to  warm  the  quantity  of  water  he  should  drink  at  one  time. 
Water  the  stallion  often,  and  give  small  quantities  at  a  time.  Because 
others  have  done  dififerently  and  their  stallions  did  not  die,  or  contract 
serious  difficulties,  is  no  argument  that  the  above  course  is  not  an  im- 
provement on  the  hap-hazard  way  of  feeding  and  watering  stock.  The 
amount  of  food  saved,  the  improvement  in  health  and  vigor,  together 
with  the  success  in  the  stud,  encourages  us  to  try  to  impress  the  import- 
ance of  this  matter  of  watering  the  stallion  before  feeding. 

SALT    FOR   THE   STALLION   AT   ALL  TIMES. 

Keep  a  piece  of  rock  salt  in  some  convenient  place  where  the  stallion 
can  have  access  to  it  as  often  as  he  may  like,  or  give  small  quantities, 
twice  a  week  regularly,  for  the  health   of  the  prospective   sire. 

PLENTY   OF   EXERCISE  AND   CLEANLINESS. 

While  the  stallion  shield  (to  prevent  self-abuse)  may,  in  some  cases, 
be  neces.sary,  we  are  strongly  inclined  to  the  opinion  that  plenty  of  exer- 
cise is  the  most  satisfactory  practice  to  avoid  their  ever  contracting  the 


HORSE     SENSE.  49 

habit:  but  when  once  acquired,  it  may  be  necessary  to  use  the  shield; 
still,  we  are  confident  that  exercise  will  do  more  to  regulate  this  pernici- 
ous habit  than  all  other  remedies  combined.  We  have  a  number  of 
stallions,  and  also  have  two  or  three  shields,  but  we  rarely  ever  use  eithe*" 
of  them,  for  the  reason  that  whenever  we  have  given  the  stallions  plenty 
of  exercise,  we  have  seen  no  need  for  the  use  of  a  shield. 

Keep  the  stallion  stall  scrupulously  clean,  for  a  stable,  and  you  will 
have  done  very  much  towards  the  health  and  comfort  of  the  stallion.  His 
bedding  should  be  clean  and  there  should  be  plenty  of  it,  that  he  may 
he  down  and  enjoy  a  good  night's  rest,  without  his  joints  coming  in  con- 
tact with  the  hard  floor  or  damp  ground. 

FIRM  BUT  KIND  MANAGEMENT. 

Stallions  should  be  treated  firmly,  but  kindly,  and  should  never  be 
teased  or  fought.  To  go  into  a  fight  with  a  stallion,  is  a  very  danger- 
ous and  grave  undertaking,  and,  although  you  come  out  victorious  at  the 
tim.e,  the  chances  are  that  it  is  only  a  question  of  a  little  time  when  he 
will  get  the  better  of  you,  and  may  endanger  your  life;  whereas,  if  you 
are  on  good  terms  with  liim,  he  will  not  have  the  inclination  to  take 
any  advantage  of  you.  We  must  not  for  a  moment  conclude  that  the 
stallion  has  not  his  likes  and  dislikes,  which  we  are  bound  to  respect,  and 
if  we  do  not,  we  are  apt,  sooner  or  later,  to  learn  to  our  sorrow,  that  we 
are  mistaken.  The  stallion  appreciates  good  treatment  as  much  as  any 
other  animal;  and  it  is  prudent,  at  least,  for  every  groom,  owner,  or 
driver  to  learn  this  lesson  early  in  the  life  of  the  young  stallion,  for  the 
benefit  of  both. 

We  could  give  many  more  details  in  the  handling  and  care  of  the 
stallion,  but  if  what  we  have  here  indicated  is  carefully  carried  out  with 
the  best  stallions  of  the  land,  we  will  see  a  great  improvement  in  the 
future  generations  of  our  horses. 

W-E  MUST  COMPLY  WITH   THE  LAWS   OF   PRO-CREATION. 

Successful  procreation  is  governed  by  immutable  laws,  and  if  we 
would  reap  the  full  benefit,  we  nmst  certainly  comply  with  them,  and  if 
disregarded  we  are  the  losers  in  consequence  of  the  violations.  It  is  not 
certain,  but  what  the  mental  and  physical  condition  of  the  stallion  and 
mare  at  the  time  of  service,  may  not  control  that  of  the  ofifspring  in  like 
character.  Then  with  the  mental  and  physical  conditions  right  at  the 
breedmg  period,  we  can  more  certainly  look  forward  with  favorable 
prospects  in  the  foal  to  be,  than  if  we  are  fighting  the  stallion  and  mare, 
arousing  all  the  latent  antipothies  to  man  (comparatively  dormant 
through  domestication)  and  say  we  are  surprised  that  the  produce  is  a 
veritable  devil  in  disposition. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

CARE  OF  THE  STALLION   IN  SEASON. 

The  breeding  stallion,  during  the  service  season,  requires  special  at- 
tention for  the  best  results  to  those  patronizing  him.  It  must  be  taken 
for  granted  that  he  has  been  well  wintered;  been  worked  or  had  plenty 
of  exercise  every  day;  that  he  is  strong  and  muscular  at  the  beginning 
of  the  season;  but  because  he  is  waiting  for  patronage,  don't  conclude 
he  must  not  be  exercised,  but  kept  in  the  stable  and  fed  all  kinds  of 
nostrums  to  stimulate  the  sexual  function,  which  would  be  all  wrong 
and  must  not  be  tolerated  under  any  circumstance.  While  it  is  not  best 
to  exercise  the  stallion  to  the  point  of  actual  fatigue,  it  is  of  the  greatest 
importance  that  he  has  his  daily  work,  to  keep  him  in  the  height  of  con- 
dition. Exercise  and  good  nourishing  food  is  all  that  is  necessary  for  the 
stallion  that  has  been  properly  wintered. 

REGULATING  THE  SERVICES  OF  THE  STALLION. 

The  regulation  of  the  services  of  the  stallion  is  a  feature  that  is  very 
hard  for  everyone  to  understand.  Some  stallions  that  are  strong  and 
recuperative  force  active,  can  do  twice  the  business  to  advantage  that 
others  are  capable  of.  But  the  nicst  important  feature  of  the  stallion's 
work  for  the  season  is  in  the  beginning.  Too  many  services  the  first 
week  may  ruin  him  for  the  whole  season.  One,  two  or  three  services  for 
the  first  and  four  or  five  the  next  week,  is  the  safest  and  surest  kind  of 
a  beginning,  and  afterwards  one  a  day  may  be  indulged  in,  but  never 
more  than  two  can  be  counted  on  as  profitable;  and  let  this  be  as  seldom 
as  possible.  The  stallion  that  has  led  a  life  of  idleness  through  the 
winter  cannot  do  justice  to  more  than  about  two  a  week  through  the 
season.  But  the  stallion  that  has  worked  every  day  and  been  well  fed, 
can  do  far  more  and  better  business,  to  both  his  owner  and  patrons. 

WATER,  FEED  AND  HAY  FOR  THE  STALLION. 

Water  the  stallion  before  feeding,  or  whenever  he  would  relish  a 
moderate  drink,  except  it  be  within  two  hours  after  feeding  grain.  Feed 
oats,  corn,  bran  and  a  little  oil-meal,  either  in  mixture  or  separately  and 
regularly,  four  or  even  five  times  per  day,  and  quantity  in  proportion  to 
the  weight  of  the  stallion  and  his  digestion.  Except  the  stallion  is  sick, 
let  the  condition  powders,  drugs,  nostrums  and  medicines  alone.  Salt 
and  ashes  kept  (or  salt  alone)  where  the  stallion  has  access  to  it,  is 
sufficient,  but  important.     If  the  stallion  is  sick,  do  as  you  would  if  you 


HORSE     SENSE.  51 

were    sick,    get   the   best    medical   adviser   obtainable   and   carry   out   his 
instructions. 

The  hay  for  the  stallion  should  be  of  the  best  and  cleanest,  but  should 
not  be  fed  in  large  quantities,  as  the  services  of  the  stallion  are  of  a 
character  that  requires  activity,  energy  and  pressure  on  the  abdominal 
visera.  Twelve  to  sixteen  pounds  of  hay  in  twenty-four  hours  is  suiH- 
cient  for  the  largest  stallion,  and  much  less  for  smaller  ones.  Too  much 
hay  has  a  tendency  to  make  the  stallion  dull,  short-winded  and  uncom- 
fortable in  his  services. 

HANDLING    THE    STALLION    FOR    SERVICE. 

This  is  a  much  more  important  matter  than  most  people  will  prob- 
ably concede,  but  it  is  nevertheless  true,  that  the  quieter  and  least  an- 
noyingly  the  stallion  can  be  handled,  the  better  for  the  future  ofifspring. 
No  stallioneer  should,  under  any  circumstances,  have  a  fight  with  his 
charge.  Neither  should  he  use  a  whip  in  handling  the  stallion  for  serv- 
ice. It  tends  to  make  the  horse  nervous,  timid  or  more  often  vicious; 
all  of  which  must  have  its  influence  with  the  progeny.  The  stallion  or 
safety  bridle,  represented  elsewhere,  is  all  that  is  necessary  in  handling 
any  stallion,  both  for  the  control  of  the  horse  and  preventing  rough 
teasing  of  the  mare.  He  can  be  prevented  from  biting  his  keeper  or  the 
mare  without  any  trouble.  Never  give  the  stallion  pain  when  in  close 
contact  with  him,  but  if  he  is  headstrong,  let  him  have  his  head  and 
when  at  the  length  of  the  stallion  bridle  (twenty  feet  rope)  "pinch"  him 
promptly  and  he  will  have  business  with  his  keeper  in  order  to  get  relief, 
Avhich  should  never  be  neglected.  Always  give  the  horse  comfort  when 
he  is  near  by  and  when  he  acts  on  his  own  volition,  is  the  time  to  get 
him  to  understand  that  his  groom  is  his  best  friend. 

The  stallion  should  not  be  allowed  to  tease  the  mare  long  or  roughly, 
but  as  soon  as  it  is  determined  that  she  is  ready  is  the  time  that  the 
stallion  should  be  allowed  to  serve  her. 

Most  stallioners  have  some  specific  methods  of  their  own  about  how 
the  stallion  should  cover  the  mare,  but  all  of  this  depends  largely  upon 
how  the  horse  has  been  educated  to  service.  Some  allow  the  stallion 
to  come  up  from  immediately  behind.  Well  this  will  do  if  hobbles  are 
always  used  on  the  mares,  but  otherwise  this  is  a  dangerous  procedure 
and  the  stallion  may  be  seriously  injured.  The  approach  of  the  stallion 
from  the  side  or  even  as  far  forward  as  the  shoulder  of  the  mare,  is  the 
safer  method  if  the  stallion  is  properly  educated. 

The  attendant  of  the  mare  should  be  instructed  to  be  ready  to  elevate 
the  mare's  head  just  as  the  stallion  goes  to  mount,  and  then  there  is 
much  less  danger  of  her  kicking  him,  as  she  cannot  get  both  ends  up 
very  well  at  the  same  time.  In  dismounting,  the  heads  of  both  stallion 
and  mare  should  be  pulled  together,  which  will  throw  their  hind  quarters 
away  from  each  other  and  avoid  injury  from  kicking.  Never  try  to 
force  a  service  where  the  mare  is  decidedly  opposed  to  the  embrace  of  the 
stallion,  as  the  results  will  not  be  satisfactory  generally.  And  a  service 
when  the  mare  is  not  in  condition  is  a  service  thrown  away. 


52  HORSE     SENSE. 

ONE   SERVICE  AS   GOOD   AS   ANY    NUMBER. 

Many  mare  owners  have  a  "notion" — it  is  nothing  more — that  two 
'or  three  services  are  better  than  one.  But  when  it  is  positively  known 
that  there  is  sufficient  vitalizing  power  in  one  service  for  seven  or  eight 
mares  (as  that  many  mares  have  been  artificially  impregnated  from  the 
one  service)  is  certainly  sufficient  to  satisfy  the  most  incredulous,  that 
one  service  is  all  that  is  necessary  if  conditions  are  all  right. 

ARTIFICIAL  IMPREGNATION   BY  INJECTION. 

It  is  far  better  where  a  stallion  has  a  heavy  run  of  business,  to  arti- 
ficially impregnate  all  those  over  and  above  the  number  that  would  over- 
tax the  stallion.  Keep  the  stallion  vigorous  and  then  a  large  number 
of  his  patrons  may  be  artificially  impregnated.  It  has  been  success- 
fully demonstrated  that  the  seed  or  vital  fluid  can  be  extracted  from 
the  mare  after  service,  kept  as  long  as  five  hours,  divided  among  as 
many  as  seven  mares,  injected  into  their  wombs  and  the  whole  eight 
get  in  foal.  That  is  the  first  served  by  the  stallion  and  the  other  seven 
by  artificial  impregnation.  This  last  method  is  the  only  outlet  for  get- 
ting the  very  best  stock  and  not  have  the  sires  overtaxed,  minimize  the 
service  fees  and  have  more  good  colts. 


CHAPTER   X. 

GOVERNMENT  OWNERSHIP  OF  STALLIONS. 

The  question  of  government  ownership  of  all  service  stallions  deserves 
more  than  passing  notice.  What  France  has  done,  and  is  still  doing,  in 
that  line,  is  well  worth  pondering  over.  By  a  decree  of  Dec.  9,  i860, 
subsidies  or  prizes  of  from  100  to  600  francs  each  (according  to  the  breed- 
ing and  quality)  were  authorized  to  be  given  to  approved  mares  with 
colts  by  government  stallions.  Besides  this,  large  sums  are  given  in 
prizes  at  the  annual  exhibitions.  May  5,  1870,  the  department  of  agri- 
culture appointed  a  director  general,  eight  inspectors,  twenty-six  sub- 
directors,  ten  superintendents  and  twenty-six  veterinaries.  The  work 
of  this  department  was  so  satisfactory  that,  in  1874,  the  number  of  stal- 
lions owned  by  the  government  throughout  France  was  ordered  in- 
creased 200  per  year  until  they  should  number  2,500,  and  the  appropria- 
tions necessary  for  prizes  awarded  to  breeding  animals  should  reach 
1,500,000  francs  per  annum. 

WHAT  THE  FRENCH  GOVERNMENT  IS  DOING  FOR  HORSE- 
BREEDING. 

In  this  organization  by  the  French  government  there  has  been  one 
central  object  constantly  kept  in  view;  that  is,  the  encouragement  of  the 
people,  by  every  means  possible,  to  adopt  a  higher  standard  of  breeding. 
In  order  that  this  purpose  might  be  accomplished,  the  choicest  stallions 
of  the  different  breeds  and  types  were  introduced  into  each  locality,  and 
offered  for  use  to  the  mare  owners  at  a  nominal  fee  for  service.  To 
further  prevent  the  use  of  inferior  animals,  a  decree  was  issued  in  1885 
excluding  from  public  service  all  stallions  not  authorized  by  the  govern- 
ment. 

In  1S87  the  government  owned  2,460  stallions,  and  exported  34,518 
horses  from  France  during  the  same  year,  as  shown  by  statistics,  which 
demonstrates  the  appreciation  other  countries  have  for  French  horses. 

WHAT  THIS  COUNTRY  MIGHT  DO  IF  UNDERTAKEN. 

This  country  could  accomplish  far  more  under  a  similar  system,  from 
our  vast  extent  of  territory  and  abundance  of  cheap  feed.  But  as  long 
as  every  individual  is  determined  to  breed  just  what  his  peculiar  whims 
may  suggest,  just  so  long  will  we  fail  to  have  a  uniformity  of  our  horses 
in  the  different  types. 

BREEDERS'  ASSOCIATIONS. 

If  the  various  breeders'  associations  of  the  country  can  accomplish 
the  work  of  breeding  from  only  the  sound  stallions  and  in  uniform  lines, 
we  may  yet  see  great  results,  but  it  looks  as  though  nothing  short  of 
government   control   will   bring   about  the   desired   results. 


CHAPTER  XL 

SELECTION   AND    CARE   OF   BROOD-MARES. 

Selection  of  Brood-AIares. 

The  breeder's  selection  of  his  brood-mares,  must  depend  on  the  uses 
he  intends  the  produce  for.  Without  a  definite  object  in  view  from  the 
beginning,  more  or  less  failures  will  naturally  follow;  and  to  be  more 
fully  understood.  We  will  describe  what  we  verily  believe  to  be  the  points 
of  greatest  merit  in  the  selection  of  the  brood-mares  for  any  type  of 
breeding. 

SIZE. 

The  size  of  the  brood-mares  will  depend  on  the  class  of  animals  de- 
sired in  the  offspring.  If  draft  stock  is  the  object,  then  the  brood-mares 
must  of  necessity  be  large,  for  the  desired  results.  If  it  is  to  be  coachers; 
then  she  must  be  the  required  size,  style  and  lofty  action  desired  by  the 
fanciers  of  that  type.  If  for  the  road,  then  she  must  not  be  large,  or  her 
progeny  will  be  too  apt  to  have  so  much  weight  that  they  will  give  out 
in  the  legs  or  feet. 

STYLE. 

The  style  of  brood-mare  should  always  correspond  with  the  best 
of  the  type  to  which  she  belongs.  Style  in  the  carriage  of  the  head  and 
tail,  as  well  as  that  of  the  action  of  our  road  and  carriage  horses,  is  of 
the  utmost  importance  to  the  breeder.  Size,  style,  ranginess  and  finish 
in  all  of  our  pleasure  horses  arc  the  requisites  that  bring  the  profits  to 
the  producer,  and  unless  the  brood-mare  possesses  these,  it  will  be  a 
difficult  matter  for  the  offspring  to  manifest  it. 

QUALITY. 

The  general  character  of  all  brood-mares  should  be  much  the  same  in 
many  respects,  viz:  fine  of  the  class  to  which  they  belong;  i.  e.,  fine 
dense  material  in  the  feet;  fine  dense  bones  with  strong  clean  joints;  fine, 
soft  hair;  fine  grained,  pliant  skm;  bright,  expressive  eyes;  fine  heads; 
fine,  well  set  upright  ears  and  fine  hair  in  the  mane  and  tail. 

NERVE  FORCE  OF  MOTIVE  POWER. 

This  force  is  equally  applicable  to  all  classes  of  brood-mares  in  pro- 
portion to  the   anticipated  work  of  their  descendants. 

Even  the  slow  work  of  the  draft  horse,  should  manifest  itself  in  a 
vigorous  walk  of  the  brood-mare;  but  too  much  of  it  makes  a  very  un- 
pleasant draft  horse,  and  a  want  of  it  makes  a  drone  that  nobody  wants 
for  any  purpose,  if  he  understands  himself. 


HORSE     SENSE.  t)0 

The  more  active  duties  to  be  performed,  the  more  nerve  power  is 
needed.  The  coacher  want?  sufficient  nerve  force  to  enable  him  to  always 
hold  his  head  up,  and  to  step  off.  as  ihough  he  was  fully  alive  to  all  the 
surrounding.s,  but  not  of  the  character  that  would  Midicate  that  there 
was  danger  of  running  away  at  any  instant  and  endangering  life  and 
limb.  The  genuine  roadster  is  so  full  of  it  that  the  end  of  the  journey  is 
reached  at  any  distance  without  apparent  fatigue,  and  the  reliable  trotter 
cannot  have  too  much  of  it,  if  the  instinct  to  trot  is  strong  enough  to 
keep  at  the   required  gait. 

So  much  is  dependent  on  the  education  of  our  horses  that  we  fre- 
quently have  difficulty  in  determining  whether  the  manifested  vitality  is 
natural,  or  acquired  from  the  manner  in  which  the  animal  is,  or  has  been 
handled.  If  it  is  natural,  it  will  be  lasting  as  a  never  failing  spring  of 
water;  but  if  from  bad  handling,  it  will  die  out,  or  be  manifest  in  ?arly 
decay.  Too  much  stress  cannot  be  laid  on  the  character  of  the  nerve 
force,  or  motive  power.  This  power  may  be  known  by  the  prominence 
and  brightness  of  the  eye,  quick  moveinents  of  the  ears,  prompt  and  elas- 
tic movements  in  gait  and  action  generally,  as  well  as  fully  alive  and 
ready  to  all  surroundings. 

The  careful  breeders  of  today  are  probably  paying  more  attention  to 
the  nerve  force  of  their  breeding  stock  than  to  any  other  qualification; 
as  so  inuch  is  dependent  on  this,  for  begetting,  maturing,  developing  and 
maintainmg  a  useful  career  that  it  must  not  be  lost  sight  of. 

CONFORMATION. 

The  brood-mare  should  have  a  good  deep,  capacious  body,  with  plenty 
of  lung  room;  broad  across  the  loin  and  deep  from  loin  to  flank;  strong, 
short  back  and  long  under  the  belly;  a  broad,  roomy  pelvis  (rump)  to  in- 
sure easy  delivery;  a  rather  slim  neck  and  not  too  close  ribbed  (to  insure 
her  to  be  a  good  milker);  a  clean  cut  head,  with  upright,  active  ears; 
prominent,  but  mild  eyes;  large,  thin,  expansive  nostrils,  and  thin,  com- 
pressed lips;  her  bones  should  be  of  good  size  for  the  general  makeup 
of  the   animal,   with   smooth,   clean   cut  joints. 

Her  muscular  system  should  be  well  developed  in  every  particular; 
especially  the  loin,  shoulders,  quarters,  forearms  and  gaskins.  The  ten- 
dons generally  must  be  of  good  size,  well  defined  and  of  the  "whip  cord" 
order;  remembering  always  that  these  will  vary  with  the  size  and  quality 
of  the  mare,  as  well  as  the  type  or  breed  to  which  she  belongs. 

CHARACTER  OF  THE  BROOD-MARE. 

The  character  of  a  brood-mare,  both  for  constitution,  soundness,  dis- 
po.=ition,  habits  and  regular  breeder,  together  with  motherly  inclinations 
and  a  good  milker,  are  essential  features  that  no  one  versed  in  the  busi- 
ness  will   overlook. 

PEDIGREE. 

The  pedigree  of  the  brood-mare  is  of  far  more  importance,  than 
three-fourths  of  our  breeders  even  imagine.  Her  blood  lines  should  be 
carefully  investigated,  to  ascertain  if  there  has  been  no  impure  or  mongrel 


56  HORSE     SENSE. 

blood  introduced  into  the  breeding  of  her  antecedents,  that  will  be  a 
damage  in  the  results  to  be  attained;  "as  the  sins  of  the  fathers  shall  be 
visited  to  the  third  and  fourth  generations." 

PARALLEL  BLOOD  LINES. 

By  parallel  blood  lines  we  have  reference  to  those  bred  in  the  same 
general  family  or  of  the  same  type  of  animals.  In  other  words,  adhere 
as  closely  to  the  desirable  family  characteristics,  as  is  possible  for  the 
best  results.  Cross-breeding  must  be  condemned  as  impracticable  in  this 
age  of  improvement.  We  must  make  as  few  mistakes  as  the  development 
of  the  science  of  breeding  will  permit.  With  all  the  care  we  can  be- 
stow, there  will  be  more  or  less  culling  to  be  done  from  time  to  time,  to 
keep  up  the  standard  of  excellence  that  should  be  desired. 

IN-BREEDING. 

While  we  do  not  strongly  advocate  in-breeding,  we  are  strongly  op- 
posed to  cross-breeding.  No  true  type  of  animals  can  be  maintained  by 
cross-breeding;  on  the  other  hand,  all  types  of  animals  have  been  made 
and  maintained,  by  strictly  adhering  to  the  best  selections  of  the  same 
family,  as  is  borne  out  in  the  investigations  of  the  improvements  of  our 
best  breeders.  If  we  want  draft  horses  we  must  adhere  to  the  principle 
of  breeding  only  typical  draft  mares  to  our  best  draft  stallions,  road 
mares  to  our  best  trotting  stallions;  coachers  to  the  type  of  stallions  that 
will  bring  us  coachers,  etc.,  etc.,  etc. 

HAP-HAZARD  BREEDING. 

The  hap-hazard  breeding  that  has  been  going  on  for  many  years, 
makes  it  imperative,  that  every  breeder,  making  a  choice  of  brood-mares, 
should  use  the  utmost  care  in  his  selections  for  any  class,  to  prevent 
getting  just  what  he  may  be  trying  to  avoid  in  the  offspring  he  is  aiming 
to  produce.  Blood  and  good  quality  will  tell  at  every  breeding,  and  an 
undesirable  infusion,  is  possible  to  give  you  an  amount  of  trouble,  that 
many  years  of  painstaking  will  not  enable  you  to  eradicate.  In  breed- 
ing stock,  mdividual  excellence  in  connection  with  the  best  inherited 
characters,  is,  of  course,  desirable  in  all  cases;  but,  when  it  is  impossible 
to  secure  this  combination  of  cjualities,  the  breeder  should  not  lose  sight 
of  the  fact  that  the  greatest  perfection  in  the  individual,  will  not  com- 
pensate for  ancestral  defects  that  have  been  frequently  repeated,  as  the 
latter  will  in  all  probability  have  a  predominant  influence  upon  the  ofif- 
spring. 

THE   BROOD  MARE   IN  RELATION  TO  THE  STALLION  TO 
BE  USED. 

After  the  selection  of  the  brood-mare  for  the  purpose  designed,  then 
an  equally  important  choice  is  the  selection  of  the  stallion  to  which  she 
is  to  be  bred.  Remember  that  absolutely  perfect  mares  or  stallions  in 
every  particular  is  the  next  thing  to  an  impossibility;  hence  to  improve 
in  the  offspring,  is  to  select  a  stallion  that  is  certainly  strong  in  any  par- 
ticular in  which  the  mare  may  be  wanting.     If  both  have  weaknesses  of 


HORSE     SENSE.  0<^ 

the  same  character  and  arc  bred  together,  then  these  weaknesses  are  too 
apt  to  be  intensified  in  the  progeny  and  general  degeneracy  as  a  natural 
result  will  follow. 

Another  essential  feature  th.at  should  never  be  forgotten,  is  that  the 
weakest  point  in  the  brood-mare  or  stallitm  is  the  measure  of  his  or  her 
power,  the  same  as  the  "weakest  link  in  the  chain  is  the  estimate  of  the 
strength  of  the  chain."  In  other  words  the  back  cannot  do  the  work  of 
the  legs,  or  vice  versa.  Consequently  the  importance  of  carefully  exam- 
ining both  sire  and  dam  for  weaknesses  before  mating.  The  strong  points 
will  take  care  of  themselves  as  will  the  dollars,  if  we  take  care  of  the 
pennies.  If  the  stallion  and  mare  are  the  counterpart  of  each  other  in 
an\'  natural  defects,  then  you  will  be  acting  judiciously  to  look  farther 
before  breeding. 

PREPOTENCY. 

We  wish  to  be  understood  by  prepotency  in  the  brood-mare,  that  she 
possesses  the  power  through  her  ancestral  inheritance,  to  transmit  to  her 
progeny  the  strong  characteristics  of  her  family;  and  by  her  being  bred  to 
a  sire  in  the  same  line  of  breeding,  her  produce  will  be  of  great  value  in 
the  perpetuation  of  the  qualities  of  the  type;  whereas  if  she  is  not  pre- 
potent, then  you  have  to  rely  on  the  power  of  the  sire  altogether. 

FECUNDITY  OF  THE  BROOD-MARE. 

By  fecundity  we  understand  that  the  brood-mare  is  fruitful,  or  in 
other  words,  she  is  a  regular  breeder.  And  to  determine  before  trial 
what  she  is  likely  to  be  as  a  regular  producer,  it  is  very  essential  to  in- 
quire into  the  history  of  her  family.  If  her  dam  was  a  regular  breeder 
and  her  mother  before  her,  as  well  as  their  sires  sure  foal  getters,  and  if 
they  were,  then  you  are  quite  safe  that  she  will  be  profitable. 

INHERITED   PRE-DISPOSITION. 

Inherited  pre-disposition  to  disease  or  other  defects  in  the  brood-mare 
may  not  show  in  herself;  if  there  has  been  any  in  her  ancestors  it  is  al- 
most certain  to  be  manifest  in  some  of  her  offspring,  without  the  great- 
est care  is  manifest  in  the  selection  of  the  sire  to  which  she  is  bred. 

We  must  stop  with  points  of  selection  for  fear  we  shall  discourage 
the  young  breeder  with  details;  but  we  must  unhesitatingly  say  that  the 
more  experience,  observation  and  study  we  have,  the  more  we  see  that 
it  is  by  no  means  guess-work.  Breeding  has  become,  to  a  great  degree, 
a  science,  and  the  more  we  conform  to  the  laws  of  the  science,  the 
greater  progress  we  are  likely  to  make.  While  we  feel  that  we  are  by 
no  means  through  with  the  matters  of  importance  in  selection,  we  must 
proceed  with  the  care  of  the  brood-mare. 

CARE  OF  THE  BROOD-MARE. 

The  care  of  the  brood-mare  for  the  best  results,  can  be  summed  up  in 
this:  that  the  highest  state  of  vigor  and  activity  through  her  whole  or- 
ganization will  be  mainly  what  will  be  required. 

But  the  question  will  naturally  be  asked,  how  can  this  condition  be 
best  acquired?     Our  answer  is:  feed  regularly  good  nutritious  food  of  not 


58  HORSE     SENSE. 

a  highly  carbonaceous  character,  but  sufficient  to  keep  the  mare  in  fair 
condition,  yet  by  no  means  fat.  Fat  is  at  all  times  a  detriment  to  vital 
actions.  The  food  should  be  generous  but  should  not  be  given  to  the 
degree  of  gormandizing.  Only  moderate  rations  at  the  proper  times 
should  be  indulged  in.  Foods  of  bone  forming  constituents  can  be  used 
liberally  to  advantage;  such  as  bran,  oilmeal  in  small  quantities,  and  oats 
with  corn  and  cornfodder,  but  always  in  connection  with  plenty  of  ex- 
ercise. Brood-mares  should  be  turned  out  for  exercise  every  day.  Large 
quantities  of  innutritious  food,  such  as  straw  and  poor  hay,  is  a  detri- 
ment to  brood-mares  heavy  in  foal. 

BEST  TIME  TO  BREED. 
Nature  almost  always  indicates  the  proper  time  to  commence  breed- 
ing. Frequently,  if  the  weather  in  this  north  latitude  is  warm  in  March 
or  April,  mares  are  very  sure  to  come  in  heat;  but  our  experience  is  that 
where  one  mare  gets  in  foal,  three  or  four  will  fail  when  bred  before  the 
middle  of  May  or  June.  However,  where  you  are  supplied  with  your 
own  stallion,  the  breeding  might  be  commenced  at  any  time  and  con- 
tinued indefinitely,  if  very  early  colts  are  desired  in  the  spring  or  late 
in  the  fall  or  even  winter.  But  the  chances  are  so  much  against  the 
practice,  that  it  will  not  be  successful  in  the  long  run  to  make  it  a  busi- 
ness with  public  sires.  People  generally,  who  have  not  had  much  ex- 
perience, are  too  apt  to  lay  the  failure  at  the  door  of  the  stallion,  when 
the  condition  of  the  mare  is  far  more  at  fault  than  the  stallion. 

PECULIAR  NOTIONS  ABOUT  WHEN  TO   BREED. 

There  are  a  great  many  peculiar  notions  about  the  particular  stage 
of  the  heat  to  breed;  and  especially  in  relation  to  the  sex  of  the  antici- 
pated offspring.  We  have  made  many  observations  in  this  relation,  and 
"have  come  to  this  conclusion:  that  the  very  best  time  to  breed  is  when 
the  mare  is  at  the  height  of  the  heat.  And  if  at  that  time,  the  stallion 
is  in  the  height  of  vigor  and  the  mare  is  somewhat  debilitated  or  fatigued, 
the  prospects  are  more  favorable  for  colts  than  fillies,  and  vice  versa. 
Still,  you  must  not  construe  the  manifestation  of  vigor  to  a  sprightly 
action  alone.  The  one  recovering  the  most  rapidly  from  fatigue,  has  the 
advantage  in  controlling  the  sex.  Stallions  kept  at  active  exercise,  but 
not  to  the  point  of  fatigue  will  get  a  majority  of  horse  colts;  and  those 
given  but  a  limited  amount  of  exercise  are  generally  apt  to  get  more  fil- 
lies than  colts,  if  the  mares  are  strong  and  vigorous.  But  there  are  so 
many  varying  conditions  that  even  this  cannot  be  relied  upon. 

CONDITION  OF  THE  MARE  WHEN  BRED. 

Probably  the  most  important  consideration  at  the  breeding  time,  is 
to  know  that  your  mares  are  in  a  healthy  state,  in  relation  to  their  gen- 
erative organs. 

Mares  that  have  worked  hard  and  been  exposed  to  inclement  weather 
through  the  winter,  are  often  troubled  with  leucorrhea  or  whites,  known 
hy  a  copious  discharge  from  the  parts;  frequently  taken  for  the  height 
■of  the  heat.     This  is  a  tenacious  mucous  that  will   act  as   a  hindrance 


HORSE     SENSE.  59 

rather  than  an  aid  to  impregnation,  and  it  will  be  of  no  advantage  to 
breed  the  mare  although  she  is  in  heat. 

jNIares  troubled  this  way,  will  remain  in  heat  much  longer  than  those 
in  a  healthj'  condition.  The  disease  acts  as  a  local  irritant  and  keeps  up 
the  excitement.  The  treatment  of  this  difficulty,  consists  in  cleansing 
the  parts  by  a  thorough  syringing  with  warm  water  and  best  English 
castile  soap,  and  then  follow  with  an  injection  of  an  infusion  of  Witch 
Hazel  leaves  (Hamamelis).  a  half  an  ounce  of  leaves  to  a  quart  of  boil- 
ing water;  let  stand,  covered,  until  only  blood  warm,  then  use  with  a 
syringe  as  before.  This  cleansing  process  should  be  continued  daily 
until  the  mare  is  well,  when  she  may  be  bred  with  success. 

EARLY  GRASS  NATURE'S  RENOVATOR  OF  THE  SYSTEM. 
Early  grass  is  Nature's  great  renovator  of  the  system,  and  for  this 
reason,  mares  are  more  certain  to  conceive  after  grass  comes  than  be- 
fore. Many  advocate  fall  breeding,  but  there  is  where  the  difficulty 
comes  in;  if  the  mare's  generative  organs  are  healthy,  it  is  all  right;  but 
too  many  are  badly  debilitated  from  a  hard  summer's  work,  to  make  it 
anything  like  a  sure  business  generally. 

EXAMINATION  OF  WOMB. 

If  mares  are  kept  fat  during  the  winter,  it  is  important  to  make  an 
examination,  to  ascertain  that  the  mouth  of  the  womb  is  open;  and  if 
closed  (which  fat  often  does)  it  should  be  gently  dilated  before  she  is 
bred,  or  there  is  little  or  no  use  of  the  service.  The  fingers  coated  with 
belladonna  ointment  will  serve  to  aid  in  the  dilitation.  Some  use  the 
soft  rubber  impregnitator,  which  remains  in  place  during  copulation 
(service)  and  aids  the  seed  in  being  carried  to  the  proper  place. 

TRYING  THE   MARE. 

There  is  but  little  trouble  in  determining  when  the  mare  is  at  the 
proper  stage  of  the  heat  for  successful  breeding;  she  will  plainly  indicate 
it  w-ithout  the  excessive  teasing  and  annoyance  usually  gone  through 
with.  No  doubt  many  of  the  irritable  dispositions  of  our  horses  could 
be  traced  to  the  terrible  ordeal  their  dams  went  through  with  at  the 
teasing  rack.  Don't  allow  your  mares  to  be  "chewed  up"  at  the  "try 
pole."  Take  them  to  some  other  horse,  rather  than  have  them  seriously 
annoyed  by  a  stallion  in  the  hands  of  thoughtless  or  careless  grooms. 
You  are  laying  the  foundation  for  future  generations  of  horses  and  it 
behooves  you  to  have  nothing  interfere  with  the  successful  beginning. 
As  little  excitement  with  both  mare  and  stallion  before  and  at  time  of 
service,  we  believe  to  be  the  best  for  the  progeny.  If  the  mare  can  be 
left  for  a  time  in  sight  and  hearing  of  the  stallion,  it  is  preferable,  if  she 
is  naturally  nervous. 

RETURNING  THE  MARE  FOR  TRIAL. 
If  the  mare  was  bred  at  Ihe  proper  time,   she  should  be  returned  in 
twenty-one  days,  and  if  she  then  refuses,  don't  tease  her,  but  return  in 


60  HORSE     SENSE. 

one  week,  then  the  second  week,  and  so  on,  till  the  fourth  or  fifth  week, 
and  if  she  still  refuses  she  is  almost  certainly  in  foal. 

TREATMENT  OF  THE  MARE  WHILE  IN  FOAL. 
The  mare  in  foal  should  have  daily  exercise,  but  not  of  too  exhaust- 
ive a  character,  nor  too  sudden  and  rapid.  If  a  draft  mare,  she  should 
not  be  pulled  too  hard,  and  if  a  trotter,  she  should  not  be  trotted  too  far 
or  very  fast,  after  the  middle  of  the  term  of  utero-gestation.  But  regu- 
lar exercise  is  absolutely  essential  for  ihe  best  results. 

FOOD  FOR  THE  MARE  IN  FOAL. 

The  best  food  for  the  mare  in  foal  is  bone  and  muscle  making  food, 
such  as  oats,  bran,  some  corn,  a  little  oil-meal  cake  and  carrots;  corn 
fodder  and  good  hay  in  small  quantities.  Concentrated  food  is  the  best 
where  there  is  tendency  to  relaxation  of  the  bowels.  A  large  quantity 
of  feed  given  at  any  time  in  connection  with  vigorous  exercise,  is  liable 
to  bring  on  a  miscarriage;  oats  or  flax  straw  in  large  quantities  may 
produce  diarrhoea,  and  abortion  follow.  Regular  exercise  and  good 
nourishing  food  in  moderate  quantities,  is  always  the  sure  road  to  suc- 
cess with  the  mare  in  foal. 

PERIOD  OF  UTERO-GESTATION. 

The  mare  usually  carries  her  foal  about  eleven  months;  but  the  time 
will  vary  so  greatly  sometimes,  as  to  give  room  for  doubt  of  all  being 
right  with  the  mare  or  her  foal,  yet  when  we  know  that  the  time  may  be 
shortened  even  five  weeks,  or  extended  six  weeks,  it  is  not  best  to  enter 
into  special  interference  without  there  is  evident  trouble  with  the  mare. 
Large  and  slow  maturing  mares  are  more  liable  to  carry  the  foal  longer 
than  the  close  built  mares  of  early  maturity;  yet  this  may  vary  in  either 
case  from  the  character  of  the  food  or  from  some  accident  that  will  bring 
on  foaling  sooner  than  otherwise. 

TIME  OF  FOALING. 

At  the  time  of  foaling,  the  mare  should  have  all  her  surroundings  as 
quiet  and  as  comfortable  as  your  circumstances  will  at  all  permit. 

If  the  weather  is  warm  and  pleasant  the  paddock  or  field  is  the  best 
place;  otherwise  a  good  roomy  box  stall  will  do  very  well,  in  which  case 
it  will  pay  well  to  keep  a  close  watch  of  her  movements,  and  as  soon  as 
you  find  that  she  is  in  pain,  you  should  stay  with  her  until  the  foal  is  on 
its  feet  and  taking  its  nourishment  properly. 

Don't  be  officiotis  and  try  to  hurry  matters  along  before  there  is  good 
and  sufficient  reason  for  your  interference.  IMany  a  good  mare  and  foal 
has  been  destroyed  by  what  is  called  scientific  delivery,  an  ofificious  in- 
terference. Nature  will  do  her  work  v.'ell,  if  you  have  done  yours  prop- 
erly in  the  feed  and  care  of  the  mare  beforehand.  Sometimes  the  foal 
may  be  so  large  and  the  mare's  pelvis  so  small,  that  the  labor  may  be 
prolonged  until  the  mare  is  very  much  exhausted,  when  your  help  may 
be  a  great  advantage,  both  in  assistance  in  delivery  and  in  sustaining 
the  mare  afterwards. 


HORSE     SENSE.  61 

When  the  head  and  front  feet  have  appeared  and  the  shoulders  re- 
main a  long  time,  with  hard  trials  and  sufficient  intervals  for  rest,  then, 
and  not  until  then,  will  it  be  prudent  to  render  your  assistance,  which 
will  be  by  taking  hold  of  the  legs  and  pulling,  only,  when  the  mare 
makes  an  effort  at  expulsion. 

If  the  mare  has  had  a  hard  labor,  she  may  be  so  prostrated  that  she 
will  be  unable  to  rise  after  foaling,  in  which  case  it  will  be  of  great  ad- 
vantage (and  may  save  the  life  of  your  mare)  to  have  ready  some  warm 
oatmeal  gruel  (very  thin)  to  give  her  from  a  pail  or  bottle. 

WRONG  PRESENTATIONS. 
Whenever  other  than  the  natural  presentations  are  present  (which 
are  very  unusual)  you  should  lose  no  time  in  securing  the  best  vet- 
erinary skill  that  you  can  get,  before  it  is  too  late.  Whatever  you  do, 
don't  go  at  the  mare  as  though  you  expected  to  get  the  foal  away  in  a 
minute.  Remember  that  you  are  dealing  with  muscular  and  serous  tis- 
sues, as  well  as  nerves  in  a  highly  wrought  state,  and  it  is  necessary  to 
move  deliberately  and  cautiously,  for  the  success  of  both  dam  and  foal. 

AFTER  FOALING. 

The  mare  should  be  watched  carefully  to  see  that  she  is  kept  warm 
enough,  as  a  chill  may  be  the  cause  of  serious  difficulties  that  will  re- 
quire great  skill  to  recover  from.  Her  food  should  be  of  the  laxative 
character,  and  only  given  in  very  moderate  quantities  for  several  days, 
when  it  may  be  increased  as  the  foal  becomes  strong  enough  to  take 
and  digest  it  well.  Many  mares  are  inordinately  thirsty  after  foaling, 
and  if  indulged  to  their  satisfaction,  both  dam  and  foal  are  apt  to  get 
into  trouble.  If  she  drinks  large  quantities  of  cold  water  it  is  liable  to 
derange  her  digestion,  and  the  foal  will  have  diarrhea;  when  as  a  rule, 
the  majority  of  people  begin  dosing  the  foal,  whereas,  if  the  attention  is 
given  to  the  mare,  in  the  reduction  of  the  water  drank  one-half,  and  a 
reduced  ration  of  food,  the  mare  and  foal  both  will  soon  be  well,  with- 
out any  medicine  v/hatever.  As  soon  as  the  mare  is  strong  enough 
and  the  weather  will  permit,  both  she  and  her  foal  should  have  plenty 
of  exercise  daily,  and  if  her  food  is  in  proper  quantity  and  quality,  both 
mare  and  foal  will  do  well  until  weaning  time,  when  the  colt  will  be 
treated  under  a  separate  chapter. 

We  have  dwelt  at  apparent  length  in  some  particulars  in  this  article, 
but,  we  fully  realize  that  the  horse  business  is  daily  improving  and  we 
must  make  the  best  of  it,  if  we  meet  the  sharp  competition  of  the  future 
on  an  equal  basis  with  the  foremost  breeders  of  the  land.  Generalities 
are  good  for  general  observation,  but  when  we  wish  to  fathom  the  depths 
of  any  business,  we  must  then  go  into  the  details. 

CARE  OF  THE  YOUNG  FOAL. 

After  the  foal  is  up  and  around  it  should  have  a  free  operation  of  the 
bowels.  If  it  should  not  you  will  notice  that  it  is  uneasy;  it  will  switch 
its  tail,  draw  up  at  the  flanks,  breath  short  and  strain  more  or  less.  It 
is  time  now  to  prepare  an  injection  of  slippery  elm  water,  flgx  seed  water 


62  HORSE     SENSE. 

or  even  castile  soap  suds  and  inject  it  into  the  bowels  freely,  until  the 
large  bowels  are  emptied;  to  be  repeated  if  found  necessary.  But  don't 
resort  to  physic,  without  you  are  compelled  to.  Better  depend  on  laxa- 
tive food  for  the  dam,  than  to  derange  the  stomach  of  the  little  fellow  by 
medicines  that  irritate. 

If  the  mare  refuses  to  own  her  foal  she  should  be  tied  both  ways  in 
her  box  stall  and  shackled  all  around. 


CHAPTER   XII. 

HEREDITARY  TRAITS  IN  HORSES. 

Hereditary  entailment  is  not  confined  to  deformity.  It  is  now  cer- 
tain that  all  defects  are  transmissible,  and  that  accidental  deformities 
frequently  become  perpetuated  in  the  progeny.  But  it  is  not  alone 
physical  deformity  that  may  be  entailed.  Habits,  peculiarities  of  tem- 
per and  behavior,  and  many  singularities  are  transmitted  with  unerring 
certainty. 

MARE  WEAVING  IN  HER  STALL. 

A  well-known  mare  had  a  habit  of  weaving, — swaying  her  head  back 
and  forth  in  her  stall, — and  at  the  same  time  raising  one  foot  and  then 
the  other  about  an  inch  from  the  ground.  She  had  three  colts,  and  the 
habit  was  transmitted  to   each. 

MARE  NEVER  KNOWN  TO  LIE  DOWN  IN  HER  STALL. 

A  mare  that  was  never  known  to  lie  down.  This  mare,  for  thirteen 
years,  was  never  seen  ofif  her  feet  except  to  roll,  and  she  foaled  a  filliy 
which  inherited  the  same  peculiarity. 

.MARE  THAT  WAS  BOSS  OF  THE  YARD. 

The  mare  that  takes  her  own  part  in  the  field  and  bosses  the  yard, 
will,  in  all  probability,  produce  a  foal  that  will  be  equally  domineering. 

MARE  THAT  WOULD  NOT  STEP  OVER  AN  OBSTRUCTION. 

We  know  of  a  mare  that  will  not  step  over  an  obstruction  a  foot  high, 
and  the  bars  must  all  be  let  down  to  the  bottom  before  she  will  leave 
the  field,  and  one  out  of  five  of  her  produce  evince  the  same  disposition. 

HABIT   OF   SCRAPING  BACK   THE   BEDDING. 

The  habit  of  scraping  the  bedding  back,  and  piling  it  up  in  the  rear 
of  the  stall,  is  certainly   hereditary. 
MARE  THAT   COULD   NOT  BE  TURNED  OUT  TO  PASTURE. 

A  friend  has  a  mare  that  cannot  be  turned  out  to  pasture  because  of 
her  propensity  to  jump  fences.  A  filly  out  of  this  mare  has  developed 
this  same  propensity  in  a  marked  degree. 

A   STALLION  THAT   HELD   UP   ONE   FOOT  WHILE  EATING 
HIS  GRAIN. 

A  prominent  sire  that  we  knew  very  well  had  the  habit  of  holding 
one  front  foot  off  the  floor  while  eating  his  oats,  and  this  habit  was 
transmitted  to  many  of  his  offspring. 


64  HORSE     SENSE. 

A  STALLION  THAT  WAS  VERY  DAINTY  ABOUT  HIS  DRINK- 
ING WATER. 

A  sire  that  was  very  dainty  about  the  drinking  water  offered  him, 
produced  the  same  characteristic  in  his  progeny,  while  another,  that 
drank  very  rapidly  and  unhesitatingly,  transmitted  a  similar  disposition 
to  many  of  his  get. 

THE  OLD  MARE  THAT  WAS  HANDY  ABOUT  OPENING 
DOORS  OR  GATES. 

The  old  mare  that  could  open  the  stable  door,  get  into  the  grain  bin, 
etc.,  is  very  apt  to  impart  a  similar  disposition  to  some  of  her  descend- 
ants. 

HEREDITY   OF    GAIT    IS     NOT    ALWAYS  TRANSMISSABLE 
UNIFORMLY. 

A  few  trotting  sires  or  trotting  dams  produce  speed  uniformly,  but 
the  trotting  instinct,  and  the  disposition  to  do  nothing  but  trot,  is  not 
so  strongly  hereditary  in  a  large  proportion  of  the  progeny  that  the  ab- 
sence forms  the  exception  to  the  rule. 

LOOK  OUT  FOR  HEREDITARY  TRANSMISSION   OF  OBJEC- 
TIONABLE FEATURES. 

The  heredity  of  straight  pasterns,  small  knees  and  hocks,  tied  in  be- 
low the  knee  and  hock;  toeing  out,  toeing  in,  interfering,  too  high  or 
too  low  gaited,  and,  in  fact,  everything  or  anything  that  is  not  desira- 
ble, must  be  observed  and  avoided,  because  the  law  of  heredity  is  bound 
to  be  manifest  for  good  or  evil,  and  it  is  our  place  to  avoid  the  bad 
and   preserve   the    good    characteristics   of   our   horses. 

The  whole  problem  of  heredity  presents  the  most  interesting  phe- 
nomena. The  lessons  that  are  being  learned  from  the  wonders  it  pre- 
sents in  the  material  universe  are  of  incalculable  value  to  the  scientific 
breeder.  To  him  heredity  has  a  wide  significance.  He  takes  advantage 
of  the  hereditary  tendencies  toward  good  qualities,  and  works  from  those 
that  bring  bad  forms  and  compromising  progeny. 


CHAPTER   XIII. 

THE  NUMBER  AND  VALUATION  OF  THE  HORSES  OF  THE 
UNITED   STATES. 

The  highest  number  ever  reached  by  our  horses  was  in  1893,  when 
they  counted  up  to   16,206,802,  and  were  valued  at  $61.22  per  head. 

The  highest  valuation  ever  placed  upon  our  horses  was  in  1884, 
when  it  was  put  at  $74.64  per  head,  and  then  they  numbered  11,169,683. 

The  lowest  valuation  ever  placed  upon  our  horses  was  in  1897,  when 
it  was  $31.51  per  head,  and  they  numbered  14,364,667. 

The  total  valuation  of  our  horses  in  1892  was  $1,007,593,636,  and  five 
years  later,  in  1897,  the  valuation  had  fallen  ofif  $554,944,240,  over  half  a 
billion  dollars.  Is  it  any  wonder  that  we  thought  the  bottom  had  fallen 
out  of  the  horse  business?  While  we  have  gained  $58,425,417  in  valu- 
ation in  the  last  two  years,  on  a  losing  basis  of  699,360  horses,  if  we  had 
only  held  our  own  in  numbers,  the  increased  total  valuation,  instead  of 
the  amount  just  mentioned,  would  have  been  $84,564,387,  showing  that 
we  are  getting  back  to  the  old  standard  of  prices  as  rapidly  as  we  can 
reasonably  expect. 
ENCOURAGEMENT  TO  THE  BREEDERS  OF  THE  PRESENT. 

If  the  above  is  not  encouraging  to  the  farmers  who  have  good  brood 
mares,  I  am  frank  to  confess  I  do  not  know  what  would  stimulate  them 
to  action. 

The  greatest  point  with  the  breeders  (and  they  are  the  farmers)  of 
today  is,  that  they  must  see  to  it  that  they  exercise  more  care  in  the 
selections  of  breeding  stock.  The  standard  of  size,  quality,  symmetry 
and  action  is  getting  higher  and  higher,  and  to  be  "in  it"  you  must  be 
"in  it"  for  all  there  is  "in  it." 

Foreign  countries  are  now  looking  to  America  for  their  war  horses 
as  well  as  drivers  and  drafters,  and  there  is  every  indication  that  we  will 
be  unable  to  supply  their  demands  over  and  above  the  requirements  of 
our  own  country,  notwithstanding  the  great  laudation  of  the  automobile 
to  the  displacement  of  the  noble,  faithful  and  reliable  equine  race. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

FARMERS  AS  HORSE  BREEDERS. 

We  want  the  farmers  who  have  good  brood  mares  to  fully  understand 
that  the  future  promises  a  greater  demand  for  horses  of  high  quality, 
\n  any  of  the  established  types,  than  for  many  years,  notwithstanding  the 
trolley  cars,  automobiles,  bicycles,  etc.  The  decrease  in  the  number 
of  horses  in  the  United  States  was  nearly  300,000  head  within  the  past 
year,  yet  the  total  valuation  (even  with  this  heavy  loss)  has  increased 
$32,712,417,  regardless  of  the  hue  and  cry  by  the  newspaper  writers  that 
"the  horseless  age  is  upon  us." 

FARMERS  BREED  AND   RAISE  NEARLY  ALL  THE  HORSES 
OF  THE  COUNTRY. 

Now,  don't  forget  that  the  very  large  majority  of  all  our  horses  are 
bred  and  raised  by  farmers.  Then  should  not  all  the  farmers  who  have 
brood  mares  of  high  quality  fully  understand  the  true  situation?  It  is 
from  the  best  brood  mares  that  we  must  expect  to  get  the  character  of 
horses  demanded  by  the  buyers.  Unless  we  have  brood  mares  of  good 
quality,  we  will  fall  far  short  of  our  expectation  in  the  produce,  no  mat- . 
ter  how  much  quality  is  possessed  by  the  sire. 

THE  STALLION  CONSIDERED  HALF  THE  HERD. 

While  it  is  a  trueism  that  should  never  be  forgotten,  that  the  sire 
is  half  the  herd,  and  we  must  look  to  him  to  make  improvements  in 
conformation  to  a  great  degree,  it  is  also  as  important  that  the  brood 
mare  possess  the  quality,  stamina,  nerve  force,  endurance  and  intelligence 
necessary  to  enable  her  to  transmit  these  essential  characteristics  to  her 
produce. 

MIXING    OF   BREEDS    IS    FOLLOWED    WITH    DISASTROUS 

RESULTS. 

There  is  another  thing  the  horse-breeeding  farmer  should  clearly 
understand,  and  that  is,  we  can  never  mix  our  several  breeds  and  types 
of  horses  in  the  breeding  relation  without  great  danger  of  losing  some 
of  the  best  qualities  possessed  by  sire  or  dam,  whereas  when  we  adhere 
to  the  same  class,  our  chances  are  much  better  for  improvement.  When 
we  cross-breeed  we  often  lose  the  identity  of  both  breeds,  and  the  mix- 
ture in  the  ofifspring  (if  a  filly)  will  require  several  generations  to  eradi- 
cate by  the  most  careful  methods. 


HORSE     SENSE.  67 

THE  FARM  HORSE. 

Besides  raising  horses  for  market,  it  will  be  wise  for  breeders  to  con- 
sider the  right  kind  of  horse  to  raise  for  the  farmer.  There  are  hun- 
dreds of  thousands  of  horses  used  on  the  farms  of  this  country,  and  this 
number  must  be  renewed  in  part  every  year.  The  farmer  is  really  the 
greatest  factor  in  the  horse  market  today,  and  a  little  consideration  of  his 
needs  is  necessary. 

ACTIVITY   AND    PROMPTNESS    ESSENTIAL    IN   THE    FARM 
HORSE. 

Strength  is  not  the  sole  requisite  in  a  farm  horse.  The  true  farmer's 
horse  is  one  equally  serviceable  in  pulling  the  plow  or  trotting  to  market 
with  a  light  wagon.  The  farm  horse  should  thus  be  a  medium  between 
the  draft  and  road  horse,  and  may  be  of  the  light  draft  stock  or  of  the 
heavier  of  the  road  types.  Courage,  determination,  and  quickness  in  tak- 
ing hold  of  loads  are  very  important  qualities  in  this  kind  of  horse. 
Animals  weighing  i,ioo  pounds,  with  these  qualities,  will  often  be  more 
serviceable  than  the  team  that  weighs  hundreds  of  pounds  more.  A 
quick,  steady  walker  is  very  essential.  Did  you  ever  stop  to  compute 
how  many  days'  work  you  could  save  in  plowing  a  field  with  a  quick 
walking  team  as  compared  with  a  slow  one?  The  team  that  gets  over 
the  ground  rapidly  saves  time  and  money  to  the  owner. 

Farm  horses  should  have  good  lung  power  and  good  feet  and  legs 
for  the  farm.  The  farmer  who  attempts  to  raise  colts  for  his  own  use 
should  be  careful  to  select  good  breeders,  that  will  produce  progeny  of 
the  desired  type.  Very  often  the  farm.er  can  raise  his  own  horses  bet- 
ter than  some  professional  breeder. 

DRAFT  HORSES  FOR  THE  FARMER. 

The  advantages  to  the  fanner  in  breeding  draft  horses  is  that  they 
require  less  care  in  handling  and  training,  because  they  are  not  so 
hot  blooded  as  the  carriage  and  road  horses  generally,  and  will  there- 
fore go  to  market  with  less  preparation.  Then,  again,  slight  injuries 
from  wire  fences  and  trifling  blemishes  through  accidents,  reduce  the 
market  value  less  than  in  the  more  highly  finished  types.  The  demand 
for  the  production  of  horses  of  first  quality  of  all  types  is  slowly  but 
surely  improving,  and  every  farmer  who  has  brood  mares  tending 
towards  the  draft  type,  should  not  fail  to  select  the  best  draft  stallions 
obtainable  to  breed  to.  It  costs  no  more  to  raise  a  well-formed,  mus^ 
cular,  strongly-constituted  horse  than  a  nondescript,  weakling  good- 
for-nothing. 

VALUE  OF  THE  HORSE  IN  HIS  MOVING  POWER. 

The  intrinsic  value  of  our  horses  is  in  their  moving  power,  and,  as  a 
consequence,  the  horse  is  valueless  when  standing  still;  therefore,  the 
closest  attention  should  be  given  to  producing  animals  with  the  best  of 
feet  and  legs.     Associate  with  these  a  good  digestive  organization,  with 


68  HORSE     SENSE. 

strong  muscular  development,  and  we  have  greatly  improved  the  work- 
ing value  of  our  horses, — and  this  is  the  end  sought  by  the  breeder, 
feeder  and  handler. 

THE  UNDERSIZED,  DEFECTIVE  DRAFT  SIRES  GELDED. 
Keep  the  matter  of  soundness,  size,  symmetry,  quality,  perfection  and 
disposition  constantly  in  mind,  and  pass  the  ill-formed,  blemished,  un- 
dersized stallions  by,  never  using  any  of  them,  and  they  will  soon  be 
gelded  and  set  to  menial  labor,  and  the  country  will  be  thousands  upon 
thousands  of  dollars  richer;  but  if  we  continue  to  use  them  as  sires,  we 
will  be  growing  poorer  every  year. 

SIZE  OF  THE  DRAFT  BROOD-MARE  VERY  IMPORTANT. 

To  get  size  in  what  we  produce,  we  must  have  large,  roomy  brood 
mares,  and  we  should  give  as  much  attention  to  soundness  and  quality 
in  the  brood  mare  as  in  the  stallion.  We  must  conform  to  the  great 
natural  law  of  "like  begetting  like"  if  we  ever  make  the  desired  im- 
provement. If  it  is  size  we  want,  this  should  be  carefully  observed  in 
both  sire  and  dam.  Add  quality,  symmetry,  constitution  and  disposition 
to  both,  and  we  will  make  great  improvement  but  disregard  all  these, 
and  then  we  are  sure  to  conclude  horse-raising  don't  pay.  We  should 
study  this  question  more  thoroughly,  and  then  we  will  have  greater  suc- 
cess and  fewer  failures. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

INTELLIGENCE  OF  THE  HORSE. 

A  great  deal  has  been  said  and  written  about  the  intelligence  of  ani- 
mals, and  almost  all  agree  that  dogs,  monkeys  and  elephants  are  highly 
endowed;  but  some  believe  the  horse  is  about  the  dumbest  of  all 
animals. 

EDUCATION  OF  THE  HORSE  VERY  IMPORTANT  IN  RELA- 
TION TO  HIS  WORK. 

The  great  reason  for  believing  the  horse  a  dumb  brute  is  that  edu- 
cators have  had  the  least  patience  with  the  horse,  owing  to  the  fact  that 
an  iron  bit  is  used  in  his  mouth,  and  he  is  by  this  means  forced  to  do  his 
master's  will,  without  understanding  just  what  is  desired  of  him.  The 
difference  in  the  manifestations  of  intelligence  is  due  m.ore  to  the  edu- 
cator than  the  animal  to  be  educated. 

WONDERFUL  MEMORY  OF  THE  HORSE. 

There  is  certainly  one  point  decidedly  in  favor  of  the  horse  in  re- 
spect to  his  education,  and  that  is,  that  whatever  he  learns  and  under- 
stands he  never  forgets;  and  this  cannot  be  truthfully  said  of  all  men. 
Horses,  like  people,  have  strong  likes  and  dislikes,  and  where  one  edu- 
cator succeeds,  another  will  fail.  It  is  all  in  the  horse  and  man  thor- 
oughly understanding,  or  not  understanding,  each  other,  and  by  mutual 
consent  being  friends   or  enemies. 

VALUE  OF  SUGAR  FOR  THE  NERVOUS  WILD  HORSE. 

That  through  the  medium  of  the  stomach  is  the  surest  road  to  the 
aflfections  of  the  horse,  there  can  be  no  question,  when  associated  with 
otherwise  kind  treatment.  Sugar  being  a  little  sweeter  than  the  dam's 
milk,  man  may,  by  the  use  of  this  tempting  morsel,  divert  the  affections 
of  the  young  colt  from  its  dam  to  himself,  and  thereby  make  a  lasting 
and  faithful  friend  of  the  horse  when  matured.  We  know  of  no  other 
one  thing  that  has  so  m.uch  to  do  in  gaining  the  attention  and  good  will 
of  the  nervous  wild  horse  as  small  quantities  of  sugar,  fed  from  the  hand 
of  man,  in  the  spirit  of  kindness  and  affection.  By  this  treatment  and 
education,  the  valuable  and  trusty  animal  is  made;  and  the  reverse  treat- 
ment makes  him  unreliable  and  dangerous. 

THE     HORSE    AND    HIS     INSTRUCTOR     SHOULD     UNDER- 
STAND EACH  OTHER. 

The  earlier  we  begin  the  education  of  our  horses,  the  more  valuable 
servants  they  make,  and  the  more  money  they  will  bring  in  the  market. 


70  HORSE     SENSE. 

The  horse  appreciates  kind,  intelligent  treatment  as  well  as  man,  and 
when  the  horse  and  his  tutor  fully  understand  each  other,  it  is  astonish- 
ing how  rapidly  the  horse  acquires  his  education. 

The  domestication  and  education  of  the  horse  was  undoubtedly  first 
practiced  in  Asia,  next  in  Europe  and  Africa,  and  afterwards  in  America, 
Australia  and  New  Zealand.  Even  among  the  natives  of  the  latter 
country,  they  practice  one  of  the  most  humane  and  absolutely  safe 
methods  (though  very  crude)  in  training  and  quieting  the  wild  horse 
than  probably  any  others  in  the  world,  appealing  wholly  to  horse  sense 
and  familiarity. 

A  HORSE  THAT  REGULATES  HIS  OWN  HOUSEHOLD. 

My  attention  was  recently  called  to  a  case  of  almost  human  intelli- 
gence in  a  horse.  The  animal  is  Trusty  Gun,  owned  by  Mr.  G.  L. 
Harmon,  Machias,  Maine.  He  is  a  dark  bay  gelding,  15. i  hands,  and 
weighs  1,050  pounds.  He  was  sired  by  Parker  Gun,  a  son  of  Jay  Bird, 
by  George  Wilkes.  His  dam  was  Aunt  Rhoda,  by  Trusty  Boy,  son  of 
Mambrino  Patchen. 

When  very  young  this  horse  showed  rare  intelligence,  and  now 
some  of  his  regular  habits  are  little  less  than  marvelous.  He  has  been 
furnished  two  box  stalls,  one  adjoining  the  other,  and  connected  with 
a  door.  One  of  these  rooms  has  its  floor  covered  with  about  four  inches 
of  mill  sawdust,  and  is  used  by  the  animal  as  a  bedroom.  The  sawdust 
is  renewed  but  twice  a  year,  and  only  then  because  of  the  dust  that  is 
brought  in  on  the  colt's  feet. 

"The  room  adjoining  this  sleeping-room  is  used  as  a  living-room. 
In  one  corner  is  an  iron  feed  dish,  below  which  is  a  crib  for  hay.  An- 
other corner  is  used  by  the  horse  for  his  excraments.  At  one  side  of 
the  room  is  a  box,  20x30  inches,  which  is  used  as  a  urinal,  and  never 
since  this  box  was  built  has  the  horse  used  any  other  part  of  the  room 
for  this  purpose.  The  box  is  kept  filled  with  sawdust,  which  is  renewed 
often.  The  blanket  which  the  colt  wore  was  spotless,  and  not  so  much 
as  a  stain  has  ever  found  its  way  to  either  cover  or  horse. 

THE   STOLEN   HORSE  KNEW  HOW  TO   OPEN   HIS   STABLE 
DOOR. 

A  gentleman  in  Vermont  had  a  favorite  ]\Iorgan  horse  stolen,  and 
four  years  after,  he  saw,  in  his  native  town,  a  horse  that  he  thought  was 
the  one  he  had  lost,  and  told  the  man  so  who  had  him,  but  the  man  as- 
cured  him  that  he  came  rightfully  by  the  horse  and  had  paid  his  hard 
earned  cash  for  him,  and  was  not  willing  to  hear  of  another's  claim  to  his 
favorite  animal.  The  man  who  had  lost  the  horse  said:  If  you  will 
drive  up  in  the  alley  back  of  my  barn,  and  let  the  horse  have  his  own 
way,  and  if  he  does  not  go  straight  to  my  stable  door,  pull  out  the  wooden 
pin  that  fastens  the  door,  push  the  door  open  and  go  directly  to  the  third 
stall  from  the  end  of  the  barn  and  take  his  place  there,  I  will  feel  cer- 
tain that  he  is  not  mine,  but  if  he  does,  then  you  should  be  convinced 
that  he  has   been   there   before  by  his   own  efforts.     The   man   who   had 


HORSE     SENSE.  71 

the  horse  thought  tlie  offer  a  fair  one  and  agreed  to  do  so.  When  the 
horse  was  unhitched  and  left  to  go  his  own  way  he  went  straight  to  the 
stable  door,  pulled  out  the  pin,  pushed  open  the  door  and  took  his  place 
in  the  third  stall,  as  predicted  by  his  former  owner.  The  man  said,  that 
is  a  very  clever  feat,  and  shows  that  the  horse  must  have  been  here  be- 
fore, but  it  is  not  sufficient  proof  that  you  are  the  present  lawful  owner. 
When  the  neighbors  all  testified  that  the  horse  had  been  stolen  from  the 
owner  of  the  place,  and  that  they  felt  sure  that  the  horse  was  the  same, 
the  man  very  reluctantly  gave  up  the  ownership,  even  though  he  said 
he  would  rather  part  with  $250. 

A  HORSE  THAT  KNEW  BUSINESS  FROM  PLEASURE. 

James  P.  Barton,  Scranton,  Pa.,  owns  Kittie  D.,  a  great  grand- 
daughter of  Hambletonian  10.  He  says:  "I  use  the  mare  for  light  driv- 
ing, also  for  delivery  purposes,  and  she  will  not  miss  one  of  my  two 
hundred  or  more  customers  without  a  word  from  me.  I  can  take  her 
from  the  delivery  wagon  and  hitch  her  to  my  road  rig,  and  if  she  ofYers 
to  stop  at  a  single  one  of  my  customers,  I  will  make  any  one  a  present 
of  her." 

A  HORSE  THAT  FULLY  APPRECL\TED  HIS  PRESERVER. 

"An  incident  which  showed  intelligence  in  a  most  emphatic  manner 
occurred  at  the  recent  big  lire  at  Waukegan,  111.  It  has  been  related  how 
George  Sells  rescued  his  horse  at  great  peril  to  himsejf,  but  it  was  not 
stated  how  the  animal  appreciated  its  master's  services.  After  entering 
the  burning  barn,  Mr.  Sells  merely  untied  the  horse.  Exhibiting  little 
or  no  excitement,  the  animal  stuck  its  head  over  its  master's  shoulder, 
gently  rubbing  its  head  against  his  face.  Mr.  Sells  walked  out  hurriedly 
and  the  horse  followed  meekly  after  him,  retaining  the  position  men- 
tioned. Mr.  Sells  tied  the  horse  to  a  fence  and  was  standing  watching 
the  progress  of  the  fire,  when  suddenly  he  felt  something  rub  against  his 
face,  and,  looking  up,  there  stood  his  horse  again  gently  and  affection- 
ately rubbing  its  head  against  his  cheek,  as  if  to  express  its  appreciation 
of  its  master's  rescuing  it  from  the  flames.  The  dumb  brute  had  broken 
the  halter  with  which  it  had  been  tied  in  order  to  walk  to  its  master's 
side  to  further  express  its  feelings.  Mr.  Sells  led  the  animal  away  and 
tied  it  again,  but  with  a  whinney,  it  endeavored  to  persuade  him  not  to 
>eave  it  alone." 

A  LAME  HORSE  THAT  KNEW  WHERE  TO  GO  FOR  RELIEF. 
A  horse,  after  having  been  shod  at  a  certain  shop,  went  lame,  and 
the  next  day,  as  soon  as  his  owner  turned  him  lose,  the  horse  imme- 
diately went  to  the  shop  where  he  had  been  shod  and  took  his  place  on 
the  floor  where  the  shoe  had  been  nailed  on.  While  the  smith  tliought 
strange  of  the  horse  doing  so,  he  drove  him  out  of  the  shop  with  a  slap. 
and  as  the  horse  limped  ofT  he  thought  no  more  of  the  incident.  The 
next  day  the  horse  was  still  worse,  and  the  owner  turned  him  out  of  the 
stable  as  before,  and  he  went  straight  to  the  shop  again,  took  his  posi- 
tion on  the  floor,  and  held  his  lame  foot  up,  when  the  smith  took  ofif  the 


72  HORSE     SENSE. 

shoe  and  found  that  one  nail  had  split,  and  a  portion  had  entered  the 
sensative  tissue.  This  gave  relief  and  the  horse  went  away  and  did  not 
return. 

A  HORSE  THAT  KNEW  HE  WANTED  TO  BE  SHOD. 

A  large  gray  horse  belonging  to  J.  W.  Watkins,  known  as  Old  Sam, 
visited  the  blacksmith  shop  so  often  that  he  was  led  out  two  or  three 
times  during  the  day.  Sunday  morning  early  he  took  his  stand  in  front 
of  the  shop,  and  there  he  remained  all  day  in  the  hot  sun,  never  leaving 
except  when  led  away  by  his  owner.  Monday  evening,  as  soon  as  un- 
hitched, he  left  his  feed,  which  had  been  placed  in  the  wagon  box,  and 
again  took  up  his  stand  in  front  of  the  blacksmith  shop.  By  this  time  a 
considerable  crowd  had  gathered  at  Webster's  store,  and  it  was  sug- 
gested that  Old  Sam  wanted  shoeing.  The  blacksmith  was  sent  for,  and 
on  opening  the  shop  door  Old  Sam  walked  in  and  stood  perfectly  still, 
without  bridle  or  any  one  holding  him  while  the  shoes  were  being  nailed 
on.  As  soon  as  the  job  was  completed  he  went  back  to  his  feed  and  has 
not  visited  the  shop  since. 

A   HORSE  THAT  KNEW  HOW  TO  AID   HIS   MASTER   IN 
TROUBLE. 

A  Norwegian  farmer  fell  from  his  horse,  and  being  severely  hurt  by 
the  fall,  and  unable  to  extricate  his  foot  from  the  stirrup,  he  was  almost 
helpless.  The  horse  tried  to  raise  his  master  by  laying  hold  of  the  brim 
of  his  hat,  but,  the  hat  coming  ofif,  this  attempt  failed.  The  horse  then 
"laid  hold  of  the  collar  of  his  coat,  and  raised  him  by  it  so  far  from  the 
ground  that  he  was  enabled  to  draw  his  foot  out  of  the  stirrup.  After 
resting  awhile  he  regained  the  saddle  and  reached  his  home." 

A     HORSE     THAT     REALIZED     THE     CONDITION     OF    HIS 
MASTER. 

A  friend  of  the  author,  and  one  who  can  be  relied  on  for  the  truth 
of  his  statement,  was  away  from  home  on  a  Christmas  evening  on  horse- 
back (with  his  favorite  horse)  to  a  supper  on  the  frontier,  and  got  the 
worse  for  the  sparkling  beverages  provided  liberally  for  the  guests. 
When  he  decided  to  go  home  (against  the  earnest  solicitations  of  his- 
friends),  he  had  to  be  assisted  on  his  horse,  but  when  mounted  he  and 
his  friends  thought  all  would  result  favorably.  But  when  within  about 
half  a  mile  of  home  and  his  horse  was  feeling  a  little  playful  (not  realiz- 
ing his  master's  comparative  helplessness)  roached  up  his  back  and 
kicked  up,  and  his  master  went  over  his  head,  sprawling  in  the  road. 
The  jar  from  the  fall  and  his  condition  rendered  him  immovable  for  the 
time  being;  but  the  horse  stopped  suddenly  and  seemed  to  wonder  what 
had  happened.  He  began  very  cautiously  to  nose  his  master's  whiskers, 
and  then  rub  his  lips  over  the  face  of  his  prostrate  human  friend,  when 
the  man  partially  rolled  over  on  his  side.  The  horse  viewed  the  situa- 
tion for  a  few  minutes,  and  then  taking  the  man's  overcoat  at  the  collar 
(as  well  as  the  underclothing)  carefully  in  his  teeth,  he  raised  the  man 
on  his  feet  and  held  him  there  until  his  master  had  got  a  firm  hold  with 


HORSIi     SENSE.  i6 

both  hands  into  the  heavy  llowing  inane,  and  then  tlic  horse  began  nn)v- 
ing  slowly  towards  home,  supporting  and  half  carrying  his  human  com- 
panion to  his  own  door.  This  portion  of  the  trip  involved  the  crossing 
of  the  ]\Iusselshell  river,  in  Montana,  on  the  ice,  which  was  done  with  the 
greatest  care. 

AN  EQUINE  COON  HUNTER. 

]Miner  Yocumb,  of  Westphalia.  Ind..  has  a  bay  mare  that  has  devel- 
oped a  strange  propensity  for  an  animal  of  the  equine  species.  She 
hunts  'coons.  The  mare  can  ""tree"  a  'coon  as  well  as  the  best  trained 
'coon  dog.  She  can  track  one  by  scent  alone  as  accurately  and  as  truly 
as  a  hound.  When  the  animal  trees  a  raccoon  she  will  neigh  and  paw 
around  the  tree  until  Mr.  Yocumb  arrives  to  capture  the  'coon.  When 
going  through  the  woods  the  mare  ^will  stop  and  smell  a  tree,  and  if 
there  is  a  'coon  in  it  she  will  neigh  until  assistance  comes.  Mr.  Yocumb 
often  rides  out  on  his  "'coon  mare,"  and  never  fails  to  return  with  two 
or  three  'coons  strapped  across  the  back  of  his  saddle.  The  mare  seems 
to  delight  in  hunting.  When  she  strikes  a  train  she  will  drop  her  nose 
down  to  the  ground  and  start  ofif  at  a  dog-trot.  When  approaching  the 
game  she  pricks  up  her  ears  and  shows  by  her  frisking  that  she  is  near- 
ing  a  'coon.     Mr.   Yocumb  would  not  part  with  the  mare  at  any  price. 

As  this  Hoosier  story  is  so  far  out  of  the  usual  sphere  of  the  horse,  it 
will  be  looked  upon  with  doulit.  but  it  is  certainly  not  beyond  the  capac- 
ity of  some  of  the  equine  race,  and  Mr.  Yocumb's  friends  assure  me  that 
it  is  all  true. 

We  could  cite  many  more  instances  to  demonstrate  the  intelligence  of 
the  horse,  but  we  feel  that  every  one  who  is  associated  with  this  greatest 
of  man's  animal  friends,  has  observed  enough  to  know,  that  those  who 
treat  their  horses  the  kindest  and  try  to  teach  them  what  their  duties  are 
without  fighting  them,  are  well  convinced  of  what  we  are  trying  to  im- 
press on  their  minds. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

HORSE  EDUCATION. 

More  than  fifty  years'  experience  in  handling,  training,  breeding  and 
care  of  horses,  should  entitle  one  to  an  opinion  as  well  as  a  knowledge 
of  the  intelligence  and  susceptability  of  the  horse  to  a  useful  education, 
notwithstanding  many  people  contend  that  the  horse  is  about  the  least 
capable  of  our  domestic  animals. 

HORSES  ARE  NATURALLY  TIMID  AND  SENSATIVE. 

The  timidity  and  natural  fear  of  the  horse  is  no  doubt  the  result  of 
environment,  and  he  has  from  time  long  past  depended  on  flight  rather 
than  battle  to  avoid  his  enemies. 

THE  HORSE  A  SLAVE  TO  HUMANITY. 

The  horse  from  time  immemorial  has  been  hunted,  captured  ,  and 
forced  into  servitude  for  the  convenience  of  man.  While  the  flesh  of 
many  other  animals  has  been  used  as  food;  the  horse  has  had  to  serve  out 
a  life  of  drudgery,  torture  and  humility,  until  death  relieved  him  from 
human  bondage. 

THE    HORSE   CONSIDERED    ONLY   A    BRUTE. 

Far  too  many  of  the  horse's  captors,  owners  and  drivers  have  con- 
sidered him  only  a  "brute"  to  be  yanked,  kicked,  pounded  and  neg- 
lected to  man's  passion,  indifference   and  sometimes  pleasure. 

THE  HORSE  NATURALLY  SUBMISSIVE. 

Were  it  not  for  the  fact  that  the  horse  is  naturally  submissive,  when 
dealt  with  in  accordance  with  the  laws  of  his  organization,  he  would  re- 
sent the  punishment,  scorn  the  indignities  of  being  tied  up  by  the 
head,  and  exposed  to  the  cold  blasts  of  winter  to  a  hitching  post  without 
a  blanket,  while  his  master  was  enjoying  the  comforts  of  a  fire  and  the 
companionship  of  friends,  as  well  as  many  other  sufferings  that  he  is 
subjected  to,  by  thoughtless,  indifferent,  careless  or  cruel  hands. 

LAWS    OF    THE    HORSE'S    ACTIONS    NOT    WELL    UNDER- 
STOOD. 

Many  books  on  training  have  been  printed,  many  horse  trainers  have 
traveled  the  country  over,  and  many  devices  have  been  used  to  take  ad- 
vantage of  the  horse's  muscular  strength,  with  the  sole  idea  of  subduing, 
conquering,  overpowering  and  punishment.  But  the  true  principles  and 
natural  laws  that  govern  the  horse's  actions   for  easy  and  natural  com- 


HORSE     SENSE.  75 

pHance  with  the  wishes  of  man,  have  been  ignored,  unknown,  or  mis- 
understood. And  in  too  many  instances  the  very  means  that  were  in- 
tended to  aid  in  the  management  of  the  horse,  have  proved  added  tor- 
tures to  him,  from  a  non-compliance  of  the  natural  laws  governing  the 
actions  of  the  horse.  Nearly  all  the  bad  actions  of  our  horses  are  the 
results  of  misplaced  confidence,  confusion  and  a  misunderstanding  of  his- 
nature,  abuse  from  his  handler  or  trying  to  force  him  to  do  what  he 
does  not  understand.  We  should  always  work  according  to  the  laws 
governing  the  horse's  actions  and  above  all,  be  sure  the  horse  fully  un- 
derstands what  we  want  him  to  do,  and  at  the  same  time  treat  him  with 
the  utmost  kindness,  then  he  will  appreciate  what  we  do  for  him  and  in 
turn,  do  for  us  all  he  is  capable  of  without  complaint. 

THE    HORSE    IS    ENDOWED    WITH    INTELLIGENCE    AND 
PASSIONS. 

If  we  are  not  willing  to  grant  that  the  horse  is  capable  of  great  in- 
telligence, we  are  sure  that  he  is  endowed  with  much  the  same  passions 
that  we  are,  and  when  both  man  and  horse  get  angry  at  the  same  time, 
resentment,  destruction  and  revenge  are  often  manifest,  and  as  the 
horse  has  a  very  retentive  memory,  he  is  often  made  a  dangerous  ani- 
mal, where  he  might  have  been  a  docile  and  useful  friend. 

USEFUL  EVERY-DAY  LESSONS  RATHER  THAN  TRICKS. 

It  should  be  our  duty  in  the  education  of  the  horse  to  confine  our- 
selves to  the  every-day  practical  lessons,  which  will  make  him  more  use- 
ful in  his  duties,  rather  than  to  educate  him  to  such  tricks  as  only  show 
his  degree  of  intelligence,  which  are  seen  at  the  circus  and  other  ex- 
hibitions. 

The  capabilities  of  the  horse  for  a  useful  education  is  greatly  depend- 
ent on  the  size,  quality  and  development  of  the  brain,  the  same  as  with 
man. 

It  is  the  universal  practice  everywhere  to  look  at  the  head  and  face 
of  man  to  form  any  idea  of  his  character,  and  while  but  few  are  experts 
in  reading  human  character,  everybody  intuitively  forms  their  opinions, 
from  this  portion  of  the  human  anatomy  ihstead  of  some  other,  and 
there  is  no  question  but  the  horse's  head  and  face  is  as  good  an  index  to 
his  character  as  that  of  man  to  the  human  family. 

The  page  cut  No.  27,  of  heads  of  horses  is  something  of  a  study  for 
the  reader,  from  the  performances  of  the  horses  and  their  reputation. 
While  they  show  in  some  respects  many  points  of  resemblance,  there  are 
others  of  striking  differences.  Fig.  i  at  the  top,  represents  the  heads  of 
President  McKinley's  favorite  carriage  team.  Defiance  and  Selim,  the 
latter  on  the  ofif  side.  They  are  1634  hands  high,  both  chestnut,  strip  in 
faces,  right  front  and  both  hind  feet  white;  very  stylish  and  tractable  and 
can  be  rode  at  a  2:40  clip,  and  said  to  be  the  most  beautiful  and  stylish 
pair  ever  owned  at  the  White  House.  They  were  bred  by  Geo.  Warren 
&  Sons,  Laurel  Hill  stock  farm.  Fox  Lake,  Wis.  They  are  six  years  old, 
and   descendents   of   the   fine   Arab   stallion.    Linden   Tree,,   presented   to 


HORSE     SENSE. 


Cut  No.  27. 
REPRESENTATIVE  HEADS   OF  HORSES. 


HORSE     SENSE.  77 

President  Grant,  by  the  Sultan  of  Turkey,  while  on  his  trip  around  the 
world.  These  heads  are  models  in  outline  and  should  be  studied. 
Length  from  base  of  ears  to  eyes  shows  brain  power.  Fig.  2  is  that  of 
Merchaison,  a  Clydesdale  stallion,  and  fig.  3,  of  Guy,  the  famous  pacer, 
record  2:06^4.  These  should  be  studied  in  contrast,  as  both  were  un- 
wieldy to  the  rein,  both  heavy  headed,  but  very  difYerent.  Figs.  4,  5  and  6 
should  be  studied  together  as  they  are  all  noted  horses  and  have  a  nation- 
al reputation.  All  good  heads,  but  somewhat  different  in  some  respects. 
Fig.  4,  John  R.  Gentry,  record,  pacing  2:005/^  is  a  splendid  business 
head  and  with  proper  treatment  is  very  reliable  in  character.  Fig.  5, 
Robt.  J.,  pacing  record  2:oiJ^,  shows  a  cheerful  active  brain  and 
naturally  playful.  Fig.  6,  is  a  model  outline,  shows  great  brain  power, 
determination,  courage  and  fidelity  to  his  human  master  when  well 
treated.  Fig.  7,  Flying  Gib.  pacing  record  of  2:04,  shows  a  nervous 
organization,  and  while  intelligent,  is  naturally  eratic,  and  when  pressed 
too  hard,  becomes  treacherous  and  very  unreliable.  Fig.  8  is  Fred, 
a  very  intelligent  horse  belonging  to  a  friend.  He  has  a  wonderful  mem- 
ory, and  while  he  is  timid,  he  is  pleasant,  affectionate  and  always  cheer- 
ful. Fig.  9,  McDonald,  mare,  playful,  kind,  cheerful,  quick  and  active. 
The  face  line  should  be  nearly  straight,  and  wide  between  the  eyes.  Ro- 
man nose  and  "dish-faced"  horses  are  generally  objectionable. 

EXTENT  OF  THE  HORSE'S  CAPACITY   FOR  LEARNING. 

Dr.  Key  has  gone  so  far  with  his  horse  Jim  Key  as  to  teach  him  the 
entire  alphabet  as  well  as  many  other  things,  which  is  still  more  con- 
vincing that  horses  only  want  to  knov/  what  we  desire  of  them  and  they 

are  ready  and  willing  to  comply  v/ith  our  wishes. 

FIDELITY  OF  THE  HORSE  TO  HIS  MASTER. 

There  are  many  instances  on  record  to  prove  the  fidelity,  interest 
and  patience  horses  have  for  those  who  have  treated  them  kindly.  There 
are  also  many  others  to  demonstrate  that  the  horse  distinctively  remem- 
bers the  many  wrongs  he  has  suffered  from  his  master  and  when  the 
opportunity  ofifers  he  seeks  revenge. 

We  remember  well  an  old  man  (when  we  were  mere  boys)  who  would 
go  to  town  and  imbibe  so  freely  that  he  was  unable  to  mount  his  favorite 
mare,  but  when  assisted  to  get  on  her  back,  the  old  mare  would  take 
great  pains  in  trying  to  keep  him  in  position,  by  weaving  back  and  forth 
to  keep  under  her  master  as  he  got  out  of  balance,  and  if  he  chanced  to 
suddenly  get  so  far  over  to  one  side  that  she  could  not  save  him  and 
he  fell  ofif,  she  would  stay  with  him  until  some  one  came  along  to  get 
him  on  her  back  again,  when  she  would  try  again  to  get  him  home. 
The  old  man  often  said  his  mare  was  the  most  faithful  friend  he  had  and 
she  should  be  well  cared  for,  as  long  as  he  lived.  Within  the  last  few 
months  a  friend  who  had  what  was  thought  to  be  a  very  high  lifed  and 
dangerous  horse,  insisted  on  going  home,  a  distance  of  about  six  miles 
when  it  was  very  dark,  was  found  dead  the  next  morning  by  the  road- 
side where  the  buggy  had  upset  and  killed  him;  but  this  spirited  horse 


78  HORSE     SENSE. 

still  stood  there  and  had  not  moved  from  the  place  where  the  accident 

had  happened. 

REMEMBRANCE  OF  WRONGS  STORED  UP  BY  THE  HORSE. 

David  Harum  said  "Ev'ry  hoss  c'n  do  a  thing  better  'n'  spryer  if  he's 
been  broke  to  it  as  a  colt."  We  perfectly  agree  with  David  and  wish  to 
impress  this  fact  on  every  one  who  raises  horses.  The  early  impres- 
sions of  the  right  character  made  on  the  colt  are  of  the  first  importance, 
and  all  of  those  of  a  bad  character  are  equally  dangerous;  for  whatever 
the  colt  learns  either  good  or  bad  will  be  distinctly  remembered.  He 
never  forgets. 

CONSIDERATION      FOR     RIGHT     TREATMENT     OF     OUR 
HORSES. 

We  cannot  be  too  careful  to  do  the  right  things  with  the  colt  and  as 
carefully  avoid  everything  that  is  not  for  the  best.  Kindness  and  dainty 
morsels  fed  from  the  hand,  together  with  the  means  of  control,  are  the 
surest  and  safest  methods. 

UNDERLYING  PRINCIPLES  MUST  BE  UNDERSTOOD. 

We  must  first  understand  the  underlying  principles  or  natural  laws 
governing  the  actions  of  our  animals.  If  the  horse  is  secure  at  one  end 
of  the  body  only  he  is  sure  to  go  in  the  opposite  direction  for  relief. 
Fasten  him  at  the  front  end  of  the  body  and  he  naturally  goes  back- 
wards to  free  himself.  If  fastened  at  the  rear  end  only,  he  as  naturally 
goes  forwards  to  get  away  from  the  object  of  attack.  These  natural 
laws  are  instinctively  and  constantly  complied  with  in  the  actions  of  our 
horses,  and  whatever  we  have  to  do  with  them,  must  be  in  accordance 
with  these  laws,  if  we  desire  safe,  reliable  and  enduring  animals. 

HOW    TO    CATCH    THE     YOUNG     FOAL    AND    MAKE    NO 
MISTAKE. 

The  first  act  on  our  part  towards  the  young  foal  is  to  catch  it  and 
hold  it  without  hurting  it  in  any  way.  And  we  must  not  forget  the  law 
by  which  it  will  be  influenced  in  its  action.  Instead  of  catching  it 
around  the  neck  and  make  it  run  backwards,  as  it  naturally  will  and  as 
naturally  go  forwards  if  we  catch  it  at  the  rear  end;  then  does  it  not  as 
naturally  follow,  to  make  a  success  of  catching  the  little  colt,  we  should 
catch  it  at  both  ends  at  the  same  time?  By  putting  one  hand  under  its 
neck  at  the  chest  and  the  other  back  of  its  hams  or  catch  it  by  the  tail, 
we  can  hold  the  little  thing  without  difficulty — can  at  the  age  of  an  hour 
or  day  old  even  lift  it  ofif  the  ground.  In  catching  it  in  this  way,  it  will 
try  to  go  forwards  when  we  press  the  hardest  at  the  rear  end  and  back- 
wards when  we  make  the  greatest  pressure  at  the  front  end. 

HOW  THE  YOUNG  COLT  SHOULD  BE  HANDLED. 

As  soon  as  the  colt  gets  quiet,  which  it  will  as  soon  as  we  have  de- 
monstrated our  superior  power  without  giving  it  pain,  then  we  should 
begin  making  ourselves    acquainted    with    every    part    of    its    body;  by 


HORSE     SENSE.  79 

handling  its  legs,  bring  our  hands  in  contact  with  every  part  of  its  body 
with  the  utmost  gentleness.  About  the  ears,  back  of  the  fore  legs  and  at 
the  flank,  it  is  specially  sensative;  but  if  handled  carefully  for  one  or  two 
minutes  it  becomes  accustomed  to  the  touch  and  does  not  mind  it. 

SHOW    THE    YOUNG    FOAL    THAT    WE    ARE    AS    GOOD    A 
FRIEND  AS  ITS  MOTHER. 

While  the  colt  will  recognize  our  superior  power — as  among  them  the 
stronger  rule,  the  weaker — we  must,  before  leaving  the  little  fellow,  show 
it  that  notwithstanding  we  have  caught  it  and  held  it,  handled  it  all  over 
without  giving  it  pain,  yet  we  are  as  good  friends  to  it  as  its  dam,  and 
this  we  must  demonstrate,  by  taking  a  little  granulated  sugar  in  the  palm 
of  the  hand  and  press  it  between  the  colt's  lips,  by  passing  the  hand 
across  its  mouth  and  take  the  hand  away,  when  its  tongue  will  come  in 
contact  with  the  sugar,  which  is  a  little  sweeter  than  the  dam's  milk. 
Repeat  this  several  times  until  the  colt  realizes  where  the  sweet  comes 
from,  and  the  remainder  is  easy. 

Everything  that  loving  kindness  and  ingenuity  can  devise  should  be 
done  to  impress  upon  the  colt's  mind  thus  early  in  life,  that  man  is  his 
natural  protector  and  friend,  between  whom  intimate  companionship  has 
been  ordained  by  beneficent  nature,  which  insures  that  he  shall  be  pro- 
tected and  cherished  while  he  serves.  Ah,  me!  if  all  colts  could  have  such 
treatment,  how  few  vicious  horses  we  should  see,  and  how  much  greater 
in  the  aggregate,  would  be  the  happiness  which  life  would  bring  to  them 
and  man.  The  Arab  regards  the  colt  as  one  of  his  household,  next  in 
rank  and  importance  to  his  children.  His  food  and  often  his  bed  is 
shared  with  his  horses,  and  the  very  young  things  are  always  treated  with 
the  utmost  kindness  and  afifection;  and  such  things  as  blows  and  kicks. 
are  not  known  to  them. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

HORSE  VOCABULARY. 

The  vocabulary  of  words  to  be  used  in  our  relations  with  the  horse, 
should  be  very  carefully  arranged,  so  that  no  two  words  have  a  similar 
sound  and  never  use  more  than  one  short  word  for  any  one  action.  We 
should  be  very  choice  in  the  selection  of  the  words  which  we  use  in 
handling  our  horses,  and  we  would  strongly  urge  that  every  horseman 
who  reads  this  book,  will  feel  as  we  do  in  this  matter,  and  adopt  the 
vocabulary  here  devised,  in  the  hope  that  everybody  will  eventually  adopt 
the  same,  and  then  our  horses  will  understand  the  language  of  every 
horseman — it  being  the  same. 

CHOICE  WORDS  FOR  OUR  HORSES. 

As  a  large  majority  of  those  who  handle  horses  have  no  particular 
choice  in  the  words  used  with  their  horses,  and  often  use  a  combination 
of  words  that  even  the  intelligent  human  being  can  rarely  comprehend, 
is  it  any  wonder  that  our  horses  have  no  better  understanding  of  what 
is  said  to  them?  Then  as  no  two  horsemen  have  any  well  established 
vocabulary  for  their  communications  with  the  horse,  is  it  not  time  some- 
one made  up  a  list  of  words,  for  a  beginning  at  uniformity? 

There  seems  to  be  a  general  understanding  that  the  word  whoa  is  to 
be  used  when  we  wish  to  stop.  This  is  a  very  good  word  and  we 
would  not  change  it,  but  would  emphasize  the  matter  that  it  should 
never  be  used  except  when  we  wish  to  stop  still,  and  not  use  it  to  slacken 
the  pace  or  fcr  any  other  action.  The  word  back  is  also  a  good  word  for 
the  purpose,  and  should  be  used  only  when  the  backward  movement 
is  desired,  and  never  in  connection  with  any  other  word,  as  is  too  often 
heard  "whoa-back,"  as  this  would  certainly  be  confusing. 

We  should  be  as  choice  in  our  commands  to  our  horses,  as  the  officers 
of  an  army  are  to  their  men;  and  when  everybody  consents  to  the  use  of 
certain  definite  words  for  specific  actions,  then,  and  not  until  then,  can 
we  buy  and  sell  or  trade  horses  and  have  them  understand  what  we  say 
to  them,  which  is  the  only  rational  manner  of  having  the  horse  under- 
stand what  we  desire  him  to  do. 

KIND  WORDS  BETTER  THAN  HARSH  BITS. 

We  are  all  aware  that  many  will  say  that  the  bit  is  the  only  means  of 
controling  and  directing  our  horses,  and  "with  the  whip  in  one  hand  and 
the  lines  in  the  other,  we  can  force  him  to  do  our  bidding."  Yes,  this 
can  be  done  only  to  a  limited  degree,  but  to  have  the  best  service  of  your 
horse,   he   should  understand   what   is   wanted   of  him   and  then   he    will 


HORSE    SENSE.  81 

gladly  and  willingly  comply.     But  if  we  rely  only  on  the  lines  and  whip 
then  we  will  have  horses  that  are  not  to  be  trusted. 

ONLY  A  TEN  WORD  VOCABULARY. 

A  uniform  vocabulary  of  only  ten  words,  if  universally  adopted,  would 
be  of  inestimable  value  to  both  horses  and  horsemen,  and  if  carefully 
considered  in  its  true  light,  it  seems  there  should  be  no  trouble  to  estab-  ^ 
lish  'it.  Others  may  suggest  a  better  formula,  but  as  these  have  no 
similarity  in  sound  and  to  the  human  mind  have  their  meaning,  as  un- 
derstood or  by  common  usage;  it  is  as  good  as  any  other  we  can  think 
of,  and  find  from  long  experience,  that  the  horse  readily  learns  what  is 
expressed  and  does  not  seem  confused  in  their  use. 

In  starting  the  horse,  we  like  to  be  able  to  gather  up  the  lines  and 
draw  them  tight  enough  to  straighten  them  out,  without  the  horse  mak- 
ing a  movement,  and  then  before  giving  him  the  word  for  the  forward 
movement,  we  want  to  let  him  know  that  we  are  ready  and  then  tell  him 
to  go  ahead.  Many  of  the  accidents  with  horses  are  the  result  of  horses 
starting  before  the  driver  was  ready.  A  large  majority  of  horse  hand- 
lers allow  the  horses  to  start  as  soon  as  the  lines  are  touched — ready  or 
not— and  some  drivers  encourage  the  team  in  starting  while  the  team- 
ster is  climbing  into  the  wagon.  This  is  all  wrong,  and  should  be 
severely  condemned. 

SHORT  VOCABULARY  TO  BE  USED  WITH  OUR  HARNESS 
HORSES. 

ALREADY — is  a  good  word  to  let  the  horse  know  that  you  are  about 
to  give  him  a  command,  and  as  soon  as  he  knows  what  is  meant  he 
will  fix  himself  for  it,  let  it  be  of  whatever  character  desired,  and  if 
not  repeated  in  too  rapid  succession,  he  will  act  with  precision  and 
human-like. 

START — is  an  excellent  word  for  the  forward  movement  from  a  stand 
still,  but  should  not  be  used  except  at  the  beginning,  to  start. 

HURRY — will  answer  to  increase  the  gait  at  the  walk  if  repeated  at  long 
intervals,  and  will  do  at  the  trot  or  pace,  by  repeating  in  rapid  suc- 
cession— hurry,  hurry,  hurry,  etc. 

RUN — cannot  be  beat  when  the  highest  rate  of  speed  is  desired,  and  the 
horse  will  comprehend  just  what  is  wanted,  and  by  the  association  of 
the  whip  at  the  same  time  that  the  word  RUN  is  used,  he  will  in- 
stinctively break  from  any  other  gait  into  the  run  and  if  repeated  with 
emphasis,  he  will  do  his  best. 

STEADY — is  a  very  good  word  to  use  when  the  gait  is  to  be  main- 
tained or  slightly  decreased  and  must  be  associated  with  a  very  steady 
pull  on  the  lines,  and  the  word  used  in  a  soothing  tone,  in  degree  as 
you  desire  him  to  maintain  or  decrease  his  speed. 

SLACKEN — indicates  just  what  is  wanted  and  in  association  with  the 
pressure  on  the  bit,  will  answer  the  purposes  intended  and  in  a  very 
short  time  the  word  alone  will  answer  the  purpose. 

WHOA — is  about  the  most  important  word  in  the  vocabulary,  and 
should  never  be  used  except  a  positive  halt  is  desired,  as  so  much  may 


82  HORSE    SENSE. 

depend  on  the  prompt  compliance  with  the  command,  that  we  cannot 
afford  to  have  the  horse  misunderstand  it,  and  if  he  has  been  well 
trained  to  it,  he  will  instinctively  stop  at  the  sound  of  that  word,  and 
often  prevent  a  variety  of  accidents. 
BACK — this  is  an  important  word  to  teach  the  horse,  as   often  much 
'.kpends  on   his   understanding  just  how   to  perform   the  work   of  a 
backward   movement   with   a   load.      He    should   first  be   taught  this- 
lesson  out  of  the  harness,  as  is  described  elsewhere  in  a  very  simple 
manner,  in  accordance  with  the  equine  law. 
HAW — this  is  the  word  of  our  fore-fathers  who  used  but  one  line   in 
driving  one  to  eight  horses,  and  by  a  pull  of  this  line,  and  using  the 
word  HAW,  the  horses  would  turn  to  the  left. 
GEE — this  is  also  the  word  of  our  fore-fathers  and  was  used  in  con- 
nection with  a  slight  jerk  on  the  one  line  and  meant  a  turn  to  the 
right. 

To  the  average  boy  of  today  these  last  two  words  HAW  and  GEE 
mean  comparatively  nothing,  but  the  horse  can  be  made  to  soon  un- 
derstand just  what  is  wanted  and  as  readily  turn  in  the  direction  desired 
as  he  will  at  the  word  WHOA  or  BACK.  So  the  reader  can  see  that  the 
horse  may  be  directed  by  the  word  in  all  required  movements,  without 
the  use  of  line  or  bit  in  the  usual  way. 

Horses  well  instructed  to  the  use  of  the  single  line  system  make  the 
most  reliable,  intelligent  and  useful  of  our  horses. 


CHAPTER   XVIII. 

GETTING  THE  CONFIDENCE  OF  THE  LITTLE  COLTS. 

Everyone  familiar  with  the  importance  of  having  no  mistakes  made 
in  the  early  education  of  our  horses,  will,  no  doubt,  be  sufficiently  at- 
tracted by  our  handling  to  keep  our  company  a  few  moments  while  we 
explain,  in  as  plain  and  simple  a  manner  as  possible,  what  we  believe  to 
be  the  fundamental  principle  of  procedure,  as  well  as  cheap  and  practical 
devices  for  the  purpose. 

No  one  who  has  studied  the  character  and  disposition  of  our  horses 
will  deny  but  what  we  must  first  get  the  confidence  of  our  pupil  before 
we  can  make  much  headway  in  his  education.  But  how  to  get  that  con- 
fidence and  maintain  it,  is  the  first  question  to  be  solved.  We  firmly  be- 
lieve that  the  best  possible  time  is  when  the  young  foal  is  but  one  hour 
to  one  day  old.  And  the  best  method  is  to  feed  the  young  thing  gran- 
ulated sugar  from  the  hand,  by  first  rubbing  it  between  its  lips  until  it 
knows  where  to  find  it,  as  well  as  where  to  get  the  milk  from  its  mother, 
which  it  also  has  to  learn.  As  soon  as  the  young  colt  realizes  that  it 
can  get  as  sweet  food  from  the  master's  hand  as  from  the  udder  of  its 
dam  it  as  readily  goes  to  one  as  the  other.  As  soon  as  the  colt  realizes 
this  fact,  it  has  confidence,  and  our  word  for  it,  that  confidence  will 
never  be  wanting  unless  we  deceive  it  in  some  way. 

As  soon  as  the  colt  will  come  to  you  and  eat  sugar  from  the  palm 
of  your  hand  (See  cut  No.  28.)  without  apparent  fear,  you  can  begin  to 
handle  and  restrain  it.  Be  sure  you  touch  every  part  of  its  body  with 
your  hands.  Handle  it  as  gently  and  kindly  as  you  would  a  baby — which 
it  really  is,  and  sensitive,  too. 

Keep  this  up  from  day  to  day,  until  it  will  really  look  lor  your  com- 
ing as  a  period  of  comfort,  enjoyment  and  relish. 

As  it  grows  stronger  and  more  familiar  with  you,  it  will  be  well  to 
assure  it  that  you  are  stronger;  but,  while  you  may  hold  it,  it  is  not  to  be 
hurt  or  punished  in  consequence,  but  on  the  contrary,  it  is  to  be  caressed, 
petted  and  even  given  sugar,  which  goes  farther  to  satisfy  it  that  there  is 
no  harm  meant  than  anything  else  that  mortal  man  can  do  for  it. 

TRAINING  TO  THE  HALTER. 

When  the  colt  is  about  ten  days  or  two  weeks  old  is,  probably,  the 
test  time  to  educate  it  to  the  legitimate  use  of  the  halter.  While  you 
have  really  had  no  trouble  up  to  this  time,  there  is  great  danger  that 
right  here  you  and  the  young  equine  will  have  a  disagreementTr-a  falling 
out— a  misunderstanding— and  possibly  a   lasting  grudge   at   each  other. 


84 


HORSE     SENSE. 


But  if  you  will  bear  with  us  patiently  and  follow  closely  the  instructions 
we  will  endeavor  to  make  plain,  you  will  soon  realize  how  easy  it  is  to 
educate  a  little  colt  to  the  halter. 

Of  course,  if  you  have  done  the  first  part  properly — got  the  colt's  con- 
fidence— you  will  have  no  trouble  in  putting  a  halter  on  its  head.  But 
because  you  had  no  trouble  in  getting  the  halter  in  place,  don't  think  for 
a  moment  that  you  will  have  no  trouble  in  leading  it,  because  you  will, 
ninety-nine  times  out  of  a  hundred,  and  this  is  just  what  you  must  avoid. 
Please  mark  well  what  we  have  to  say  about  the  further  procedure. 


Cut  No.  28. 


FEEDING  THE  YOUNG   COLTS. 


FASTENING  THE  COLT  AT  BOTH  ENDS. 

After  the  halter  is  nicely  adjusted  to  the  colt's  head,  take  about  ten 
or  twelve  feet  of  rope,  clothes-line  size,  and  tie  a  ring  in  one  end  or  form 
a  loop  in  the  end  to  make  a  slip-noose;  then  place  this  rope  around  the 
colt's  body — right  around  the  loin  and  flank,  running  the  rope  through 
the  ring  or  noose  on  the  under  side  of  the  body;  then  pass  it  between 
the  forelegs  and  up  under  the  jaw-strap  or  nose-band  of  the  halter  as 
shown  in  the  cut  No.  29. 

JUST  READY  FOR  THE   FIRST   HALTER  LESSON. 

Now,  and  not  until  now,  are  you  really  ready  for  business  without 
danger  of  a  mistake,  and  if  you  follow  instructions  you  will  be  well  paid 


HORSE     SENSE. 


85 


for  the  time  and  trouble  of  reading  this  article,  if  you  are  not  already  in 
possession  of  a  better  method. 

Now,  take  the  strap  of  the  halter  in  one  hand,  and  the  small  rope  in 
the  other;  take  a  position  at  a  slight  angle  with  the  body  of  the  colt,  (but 
not  so  much  as  is  shown  in  the  cut)  and  begin  to  gently  pull  on  the  hal- 
ter; you  will  observe  that  the  colt  has  an  inclination  to  resist  you — go 
back  on  you  for  the  first  time — but  just  as  it  is  about  to  do  so  give  a 
sudden  and  positive  pull  on  the  rope,  and  both  you  and  it  will  be  sur- 
prised at  the  result — you  will  both  find  you  are  very  near  to  each  other, 
and  j-ou  should  recognize  the  close  proximity  by  caressing  it,  and  assur- 
ing it  that  you  are  still  its  friend,  and  that  no  harm  was  meant. 


Cut  No.  29. 


If  it  is  excited  or  confused  by  this  new  deal,  don't  push  the  matter 
farther  until  it  is  quiet,  and  satisfied  with  the  new  situation;  then  again 
get  into  position  and  repeat  as  before,  and  continue  until  the  young  thing 
will  lead  about  wherever  you  may  want  to  go.  The  halter  education,  as 
w^e  term  it,  by  this  method  will  require  only  from  five  to  fifteen  minutes, 
whereas,  by  the  other  method — pulling  on  the  head  alone — you  have 
but  little  idea  where  the  end  of  trouble  is. 

By  this  improved  method,  you  can  readily  see  that  you  really  have 
the  colt  hitched  at  both  ends,  and,  by  the  proper  manipulation, in  ac- 
cordance with  the  laws  of  its  nature,  the  little  thing  is  trying  to  get  to 
you,  instead  of  away  from  you — an  important  point. 


86  HORSE     SENSE. 

HALTER— PULLERS     ARE     OFTEN     MADE     WHEN      FIRST 
HALTERED, 

The  first  few  times  tying  it  up,  use  the  rope  around  its  body  just 
the  same,  only,  after  passing  the  rope  through  the  ring  or  tie-hole  in  the 
manger  and  tying  it  to  the  manger,  carry  back  to  the  ring  or  jaw  strap 
of  the  halter  and  tie  there,  leaving  only  about  two  feet  of  double  rope 
from  the  head  to  the  manger.  This  hitch  prevents  the  colt  pulling  back 
on  the  halter  (as  the  halter  strap  is  not  tied  at  all)  swinging  the  head  and 
throwing  itself.  Many  of  our  halter-pullers  are  made  by  their  breaking 
loose  the  first  few  times  being  tied  up.  The  same  method  just  given 
(except  a  stronger  rope)  is  the  right  treatment  for  the  halter  puller.  See 
Chapter  XXHL 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


FIRST  LESSONS  IN  HARNESS  AS  WEANLINGS. 

When  the  colts  are  weaned  and  tied  up,  they  must,  of  necessity,  have 
exercise,  and  the  best  possible  method,  in  our  opinion,  is  to  drive  them, 
instead  of  turning  them  loose  and  taking  the  chances  of  their  becoming 
nervous,  wild,  and  getting  hurt. 

We  have  studied  this  matter  a  great  deal,  and  tried  to  get  at  the  fun- 
damental principles  of  a  rational  equine  education.  For  simplicity, 
cheapness  and  expediency,  the  method  herein  illustrated  is  the  best  we 
have  ever  seen  or  devised.    See  illustration  No.  30;  hitched  for  the  start. 


Cut  No.  30. 
THE  OLD  HORSE  TEACHING  THE  WEANLING  COLTS. 

The  association  of  the  young  with  the  old,  reliable  and  experienced 
horse,  is  of  vast  importance  in  the  beginning.  This  is  genuine  "kinder- 
garten"  school   work   and   is   simply  wonderful   in  its   influence   with  the 


88  HORSE     SENSE. 

little  equine  "urchins!" — they  readily  learn,  by  precept  and  example,  how 
to  conduct  themselves  in  the  harness,  without  restraint  by  harsh  bits  in 
their  young,  tender  mouths,  irritating  their  lips  and  lascerating  their 
tongues  and  gums. 

NO  HARSH  BITS  USED  IN  THE  COLTS  MOUTHS— ONLY 
VvEAR  THEIR  HALTERS. 
The  colts  are  guided  and  restrained  by  their  halters  only;  and  mother, 
aunt,  uncle  or  friend  "stability,"  well  harnessed  to  the  cart,  directs  the 
way  through  the  means  of  lines  in  the  hands  of  a  considerate  driver. 
When  the  Kindergarten  teacher  starts,  they  are  shown  the  way  as  well 
as  compelled  to  go  along.  When  the  word  whoa!  calls  for  a  positive 
stop,  all  hands  stop  at  once,  as  per  the  force  of  the  old  horse  and  the 
method  of  fastening.  Use  the  select  words  for  all  movements  and  it  will 
be  surprising  how  much  actual  education  your  colts  will  get  in  one  week. 

THE  KINDERGARTEN  TEACHER  HAS  FULL  CONTROL  OF 
THE  COLTS. 
With  one  hour  a  day,  one,  two,  three  or  four  can  be  handled  at  one 
time  and  require  no  more  effort  than  the  driving  of  the  old  reliable  horse, 
who  really  controls  the  colts  without  pain  or  excitement — the  real  basis 
of  true  horsemanship. 

HAVE  THE  HORSE  WAIT  FOR  THE  WORD  OF  COMMAND. 
The  colts  should  be  taught  to  stand  until  all  is  ready  for  the  start; 
when  ready,  give  the  word  "start"  to  the  old  horse,  and  the  colts  will 
soon  "catch  on."  Start  ofif  quietly  every  time.  Teach  them  to  walk, 
trot  or  pace,  and  run.     See  illustration  cut  No.  31. 


Cut  No.  31. 
DRIVING  ON  THE  ROAD. 

Stopping  occasionally  to  get  ofY  the  cart  and  go  to  them  for  a  friendly 
recognition  with  a  little  sugar,  sweet  apple,  cookie  or  other  relished 
morsels. 


HORSE     SENSE.  89 

DRIVE  IN  BAD  PLACES.  ACROSS  BRIDGES  AND  CARRY  AN 
UMBRELLA. 

Drive  through  muddy  places,  streams,  over  plowing,  deep  furrows, 
high  weeds,  small  brush  and  bridges;  meet  teams  and  other  obstruc- 
tions; carry  an  umbrella  which  takes  the  place  of  the  top  carriage;  to 
get  them  used  to  having  objects  seen  behind  them;  but  whatever  you  do, 
don't  hurt  them. 

COLTS   HELD   IN    POSITION    BY   CROSS-BAR,   STRAPS   AND 
JOCKY-STICKS. 

You  will  see,  by  close  examination  of  cuts,  Nos.  30  and  31,  that  the 
colts  are  held  in  position  by  straps  running  from  a  crossbar  on  long 
shafts,  to  their  halters — serving  as  tugs  or  traces,  and  guided  at  the  head 
by  "jocky"sticks  from  each  shaft  to  their  halters  to  keep  them  from 
crowding  the  old  horse. 

All  the  fastenings  are  with  snaps,  at  the  ring  of  each  ones  halter;  re- 
quiring three  snaps  at  each  halter.  The  shafts  can  be  made  of  two  poles 
each  about  fourteen  feet  long  and  fastened  to  the  axle  and  wheels  of  a 
carriage  or  wagon.  The  cross-bar  behind  the  colts,  to  which  they  are 
fastened  with  straps  or  ropes,  should  be  attached  to  the  shafts  just  in 
front  of  the  wheels,  which  will  leave  a  considerable  space  between  the 
colts  and  this  cross-bar  when  they  are  all  up  in  position,  which  will  give 
them  plenty  of  room  for  backward  and  forward  movements  in  their  edu- 
cation. 

EARLY  LESSONS  MADE  EASY,  ACCIDENTS  AVOIDED  AND 
IMPRESSION  LASTING. 

A  few  drives  in  this  manner  will  do  more  for  the  colts  towards  a 
useful  life  in  all  future  work,  than  several  months  after  they  are  fully 
grown.  The  old  horse  is  strong  enough  to  hold  them  in  place  and  carry 
them  along  or  restrain  them  under  any  and  all  circumstances,  which  is 
the  very  foundation  of  their  future  usefullness.  To  make  Valuable 
horses  they  must  sooner  or  later  learn  these  lessons,  and  the  earlier  in  life 
it  is  done  the  better,  and  especially  when  there  is  so  little  danger  of  mak- 
ing mistakes,  which  are  often  made  by  their  superior  strength,  when 
fully  grown. 

ARRANGEMENTS  OF  THE  ATTACHMENTS  FOR  THE  COLTS. 

The  jockey  sticks  are  made  of  two  good  fork  handles  or  other  mate- 
rial of  sufficient  strength,  and  fastened  to  the  ends  of  the  shafts,  so  they 
will  have  suiificient  motion  for  movements  up  and  down  backwards  and 
forwards.  It  will  be  observed  that  a  cross  strap  is  used  between  the 
colts  with  a  ring  in  the  middle,  to  receive  the  snap  of  the  strap  or  rope 
going  between  the  colts  back  to  the  crossbar,  which  will  pull  equally  on 
both.  There  is  also  an  additional  strap  from  the  inside  colts  to  the 
shaft,  so  that  if  the  jockey  stick  should  become  detached  from  the  shaft, 
that  the  colts  cannot  pull  away  to  one  side.  Everything  should  be  made 
secure  and  then  there  is  no  danger  of  any  accidents  or  trouble. 


90  HORSE     SENSE. 

ANYONE  WHO    CAN    DRIVE   AN    OLD    HORSE   CAN   DRIVE 
FOUR  COLTS. 

By  this  method  (which  we  believe  is  original  with  us)  anyone  who 
can  drive  the  old  steady  horse  can  drive  four  colts.  All  there  is  in  the 
work,  is  to  keep  the  old  horse  going  until  you  wish  to  stop,  and  by  the 
-use  of  the  word  whoa!  a  full  stop  must  be  made  and  the  little  colts  in  a 
few  stops  understand  what  is  meant  by  whoa!  as  well  as  the  old  horse. 
They  should  never  be  started  in  any  other  way  than  by  the  word  and  if 
the  old  horse  is  well  trained,  the  little  colts  will  soon  learn  the  starting 
word  too. 

KINDERGARTEN     WORK     NEVER     APPRECIATED     UNTIL 
PRACTICED. 

Probably  no  one  will  ever  appreciate  the  full  value  of  the  kindergarten 
education  of  the  little  colts  until  it  is  practiced.  We  must  remember 
that  notwithstanding  the  horse  is  mute,  he  is  wonderfully  intelligent  and 
what  is  of  more  importance  to  know,  is  that  he  never  forgets  what  he 
has  learned,  whether  it  is  good  or  bad.  This  should  impress  upon  our 
minds  the  importance  of  having  our  horses  learn  only  the  good  lessons. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

HOME  MADE,  BUT  VALUABLE  CART. 

This  home  made  but  very  valuable  cart  (see  cut  No.  32),  is  made  with 
the  hind  wheels  and  axle  of  a  carriage  or  buggy,  and  two  long  poles 
(young  growth  hickory,  iron-wood  or  any  other  tough,  springy  wood), 
clipped  to  the  axle,  provided  with  a  crossbar  and  whippletree  and  a 
board  seat  at  the  rear  end,  with  wedge  shaped  pieces  under  the  back  part 
to  tip  the  seat  forward  for  easy  riding.  These  shafts  should  be  fourteen 
feet  long,  with  provision  at  the  ends  for  the  attachment  of  a  strap  across 
from  point  to  point,  to  prevent  the  horse  in  rearing  from  throwing  his 
front  leg  over  the  shaft,  as  when  so  provided  with  this  strap  the  horse's 
legs  striking  the  strap  and  he  goes  no  higher. 

A  VALUABLE  VEHICLE  FOR  DRIVING  COLTS  OR  UNRULY 
HORSES. 

This  cart  makes  a  very  valuable  vehicle  for  driving  colts  or  unruly 
horses,  as  they  are  hitched  so  far  ahead  of  the  wheels  that  they  do  but 
little  damage  in  kicking.  If  the  horse  throws  himself,  no  particular  in- 
jury is  done,  as  the  shafts  are  so  springy  that  there  is  but  little  danger 
of  breaking  and  if  the  horse  is  inclined  to  turn  around  suddenly,  he  is 
obliged  to  make  so  large  a  circle  that  he  gets  discouraged  before  he  ac- 
complishes his  object. 

A  GRAND  VEHICLE  FOR  HANDLING  THE  RUNAWAY   OR 
KICKER. 

If  the  horse  starts  to  run  away,  we  have  only  to  let  him  have  his  head 
for  an  instant  and  the  muscles  of  his  neck  will  be  so  relaxed  that  we  can 
instantly  pull  (by  one  rein)  his  nose  to  the  line  ring  of  the  saddle,  and 
he  must  stop  or  fall  broad-side. 

AN  EXCELLENT  MEANS  FOR  EDUCATING  THE  HORSE  TO 
TURN  AROUND. 

If  the  colt  does  not  answer  to  the  bit  in  turning  around,  we  should 
pull  gently  on  the  one  rein,  for  the  direction  desired  and  raise  up  on 
our  feet  and  carry  the  cart  around  which  will  point  the  colt  in  the  desired 
direction  we  wish  to  go;  the  long  shafts  answering  as  levers  to  turn  him 
around,  showing  him  that  we  can  turn  him  with  but  little  efifort  and  he 
soon  learns  what  is  meant  by  pulling  the  bit  in  his  mouth. 


92 


HORSE    SENSE. 


ATTACHMENTS  TO  THIS  VEHICLE  FOR  DRIVING   WEAN- 
LING COLTS. 

By  placing  the  draft  bar  across  the  shafts  of  cart  just  in  front  of  the 
wheels  and  clipping  there,  and  then  fastening  the  "T"  end  of  the  jockey 
sticks  to  the  points  of  the  shafts,  we  have  the  most  admirable  device  for 
driving  the  little  colts,  as  shown  in  cuts  30  and  31.  This  makes  a  com- 
bination that  cannot  well  be  dispensed  with  on  any  farm  where  colts  are 
raised,  as  it  costs  but  a  trifle  and  it  not  only  answers  a  variety  of  pur- 
poses, but  enables  us  to  manage  the  horse  with  so  little  trouble,  and  pre- 
vents many  mistakes. 


DRAFT    BA-R        9    Fr.  Long 


I      SNAP               -I  ''  SNAP  — ^— =r=^= 
JOCKEr^      STICK'       ^- —ZL 


Cut  No.  32. 
COMBINATION  CART. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

PRINCIPLES,    MEANS    AND    METHODS    OF    CONTROLLING 
HORSES  THROUGH  THE  MOUTH. 

The  main  principle  of  handling  the  horse  through  the  medium  of  the 
mouth  is  to  have  the  punishment  happen  at  a  distance  from  you  and  if 
he  does  not  come  to  you  for  relief,  you  should  go  to  him  and  relieve  him 
of  any  undue  pressure  that  has  been  brought  to  bear  on  his  mouth;  as- 
suring him  that  when  near  you  he  can  get  relief,  which  he  will  learn  in 
one  or  two  minutes  and  be  willing  to  follow  you  wherever  you  may  go. 
It  is  always  better  to  make  your  impression  on  his  mouth  when  he  is  at 
an  angle,  instead  of  in  front  of  him.  This  will  induce  him  to  turn  on  his 
hind  feet  and  advance  towards  you,  when  you  should  relieve  him  every 
time,  if  he  is  in  the  least  trouble. 

QUARTER  INCH  MANILA  ROPE  FOR  THE  SAFETY  BRIDLE. 

To  do  this  work  most  effectually,  a  small  manila  rope  is  the  best,  put 
on  in  the  form  illustrated  by  the  cuts  for  the  safety  bridle,  Nos.  ^;i  and 
34  here  presented.  First  take  the  rope  in  your  left  hand  about  sixteen 
or  eighteen  inches  from  one  end  and  lay  it  over  the  horse's  neck,  hold- 
ing on  with  the  left  hand;  then  reach  under  the  neck  with  the  right 
hand  and  grasp  the  rope  near  the  end. 

LEARN  TO  TIE  THE  VALUABLE  BOW-BOW-LINE  KNOT 

Form  a  loop  with  the  fingers  of  the  left  hand  so  that  the  portion  go- 
ing over  the  neck  shall  be  on  top  at  the  cross  (not  under),  then  pass  the 
end  of  the  rope  up  through  this  loop  (not  down  through),  and  draw 
down  so  as  to  encircle  the  neck  closely  with  the  rope;  now  pass  this 
end  all  the  way  around  the  main  rope  and  put  it  down  (not  up),  through 
this  loop  doubled,  and  grasp  this  doubled  portion  with  the  thumb  and 
finger  of  the  left  hand  and  pull  on  the  main  rope,  which  will  tie  a  very 
secure  knot  that  will  not  slip  and  one  that  is  very  eisaly  untied  by  pull- 
ing on  the  end,  the  same  as  you  would  untie  your  shoe  when  tied  in  a 
bow  knot.  This  is  a  very  convenient  and  secure  knot  for  the  purpose, 
and  may  be  called  the  bow-bow-line  knot.  See  illustrations  Nos.  33  and 
34- 

STUDY    THE    BOW-BOW-LINE    KNOT    CAREFULLY. 

The  next  step  is  to  put  the  left  hand  between  the  neck  and  rope  from 
the  front  and  pull  through  a  portion  of  the  rope  doubled,  taking  hold  of 
the  portion  attached  to  the  neck  with  the  right  hand,  bringing  it  on  the 


94 


HORSE     SENSE. 


oflf  or  right  side  of  the  horse's  mouth;  then  by  putting  the  thumb  of  the 
left  hand  in  the  horse's  mouth  and  making  gentle  pressure  with  the  soft 
portion  of  the  thumb  against  the  palate  or  roof  of  the  mouth,  the  horse 
will  open  his  mouth  readily,  when  you  can  pass  the  rope  through  the 
mouth  with  the  right  hand  and  grasp  it  with  the  left  on  the  near  or  left 
side  of  the  mouth,  when  the  slack  in  the  rope  can  be  taken  up  by  pulling 
on  the  main  rope  with  the  right  hand,  and  the  first  form  is  properly  ad- 
justed. 


Cut  No.  33 

PUTTING  FIRST  FORM   ON  THE  HORSE  BEFORE  REMOV- 
ING  THE    HALTER. 

One  of  the  valuable  features  of  the  safety  bridle  is  that  the  first  form 
can  be  put  on  the  horse  before  the  halter  is  taken  off  the  horse's  head, 
thereby  avoiding  any  danger  of  the  horse  dodging  or  getting  away  while 
the  bridle  is  being  put  on.  This  feature  alone  is  worthy  of  due  consider- 
ation in  handling  tricky  horses.  When  this  first  form  is  put  on,  the  hal- 
ter then  can  be  taken  off,  and  the  horse  is  secure  and  we  are  ready  to 
put  the  subsequent  form  in  position.     See  cut  No.  34. 


Cut  No.  34. 
FIRST  FORM  ON  UNDER  THE  HALTER. 

POSITIONS  TO  BE  TAKEN  WHEN  ADJUSTING  THE  SAFETY 
BRIDLE. 

Now  stand  with  your  face  towards  the  horse's  tail  and  take  hold  of 
the  rope  with  the  right  hand  about  one  foot  from  the  neck;  then  reach 


HOKSK     SENSE. 


95 


over  the  rope  (not  under)  wiili  tin-  left  hand  (back  up),  palm  down,  and 
grasp  the  rope  and  lay  up  over  the  horse's  head,  back  of  the  ears,  in 
half  hitch  form,  carrying  the  rope  held  in  the  right  hand  about  to  the 
base  of  the  cars;  pull  down  with  the  left  hand  to  take  up  all  slack  in  the 
rope;  then  change  hands  and  hold  this  portion  in  the  right  hand  under 
the  horse's  neck  and  again  open  the  mouth  as  before  with  the  left  hand, 
pull  the  rope  through  with  the  right  and  grasp  as  before,  with  the  left 
hand  at  the  mouth  on  the  left  side  and  take  up  all  slack  in  the  rope,  with 
the  right  hand,  by  pulling  on  the  main  rope,  and  we  have  the  best  stal- 
lion bridle  (or  for  other  use)  in  handling  horses  that  we  have  ever  seen 
or  used.  See  cut  No.  35.  It  operates  by  pulling  the  cheeks  of  the  horse 
between  his  teeth  and  will  prevent  him  from  biting. 


Pic;.  2.  FlG.  3. 

Cut   No.   35. 
SAFETY     BRIDLE. 

DON'T  DRAG  OR  SAW  THE  ROPE  THROUGH  THE  HORSE'S 
MOUTH. 
We  have  taken  a  great  deal  of  pains  to  describe  all  the  movements  in 
putting  this  form  of  bridle  on  the  horse,  so  that  there  will  be  no  sawing^ 
of  the  rope  through  the  horse's  mouth,  and  make  a  perfect  adjustment 
when  completed. 

WHEN  THE  HORSE  IS  IN  TROUBLE  KINDLY  GIVE  HIM 
RELIEF. 
It  must  be  strictly  borne  in  mind,  that  the  horse  is  not  to  be  abused 
with  this  bridle  by  harsh  usage,  but  whenever  the  horse  is  disposed  to  get 
away  or  be  unruly,  a  pull  on  the  rope  when  the  horse  is  away  from  you, 
and  then  relieve  him  when  he  comes  to  you — every  time — and  he  will 
very  soon  look  upon  you  as  his  friend  and  reliever  of  trouble.  But  if 
you  punish  him  without  relief,  he  will  have  no  respect  for  you,  and  you 
will  fail  in  its  intended  use.  The  principle  of  kindness,  associated  with 
powerful  means  and  the  method  of  use,  will  perform  wonders  in  the 
management  of  the  horse. 


96  HORSE    SENSE. 

USE    THE    SENSATIVE    HORSE   VERY    GENTLY    AND    THE 
DULL-HEAD  SHARPLY. 

The  sensative  horse  must  be  used  very  carefully,  and  the  willful  dull- 
headed,  can  be  handled  more  positively;  but  on  the  same  principle  of  re- 
lief when  near  you,  and  in  difficulty  when  away  from  you.  Keep  the 
principles  in  mind  and  success  will  follow. 

"YANKEE    BRIDLE"    OR   ANOTHER   MEANS   OF   CONTROL- 
LING  THE    HORSE   THROUGH   THE    MOUTH. 

This  character  of  rope  bridle  is  preferable  to  the  other  in  some  in- 
stances but  for  the  beginner  and  for  leading  the  horse  it  is  excellent. 

"YANKEE"  BRIDLE  CAPABLE  OF  MANY  USES. 

This  "Yankee"  bridle  can  be  used  in  many  forms  and  for  different 
purposes,  is  what  makes  it  valuable  in  very  many  cases.  It  is  made  of 
about  qaurter-inch  (like  the  former)  nianila  rope,  fifteen  or  twenty  feet 
long,  with  a  knot  tied  in  each  end  to  prevent  fraying  out.  Tie  a  fixed 
loop  in  one  end,  just  large  enough  to  be  put  in  the  horse's  mouth  over 
the  under  jaw  snugly,  and  when  made,  turn  the  knot  through  the  loop, 
drawing  the  main  portion  of  the  rope  through  sufficiently  to  put  over  the 
horse's  head,  with  the  knot  of  the  loop  on  the  ofif  or  right  side  of  the 
horse  (see  cut  No.  36);  then  proceed  to  place  the  loop  portion  into  the 
horse's  mouth  with  the  lose  portion  of  the  main  rope  on  the  near  or  left 
side  of  the  mouth.  See  fig.  i,  cut  No.  zi-  This  alone  will  make  a  good 
leading  bridle  for  any  horse. 

USED  IN  DOUBLE  OR  SINGLE  FORM  IN  THE  MOUTH  OR 
UNDER  UPPER  LIP. 

If  you  need  a  very  powerful  bridle  for  an  unruly  horse,  you  may 
stand  with  your  back  towards  the  horse's  tail,  holding  rhe  main  portion 
of  the  rope  about  one  foot  from  the  mouth  in  the  left  hand,  reach  over 
with  the  right  hand  and  grasp  the  rope  below  about  one  foot  and  turn 
with  your  face  towards  the  horse's  tail  and  lay  the  rope  on  top  of  the 
head  and  take  up  the  slack  in  the  rope;  then  take  hold  of  the  rope  just  at 
the  right  side  of  the  mouth,  raise  up  the  upper  lip  with  the  left  hand 
(see  fig.  2,  cut  No.  2l7^ :  and  pass  the  rope  across  above  the  upper  teeth 
and  hold  in  position  with  the  thumb  of  the  left  hand,  and  with  the  right 
hand  take  up  all  the  slack  of  the  main  rope  (see  fig.  3,  cut  No.  yj^ ;  and 
you  have  a  bridle  that  should  be  used  with  the  utmost  caution  with  the 
sensative  horse;  but  the  sulky  dull-head  will  readily  respond  to  its  in- 
fluence. It  should  always  be  used  with  gentleness  when  the  horse  will 
respect  it.  The  illustrations  (cut  No.  zi^,  show  in  their  order  how  it  will 
appear  when  adjusted  on  the  head  of  the  horse.  This  also  makes  a  good 
stallion  bridle  for  service  work. 

ONE  FORM  EXCELLENT  TO  TEACH  THE  HORSE  TO  HOLD 
HIS  HEAD  LOW  DOWN. 
If  you  have  a  horse  that  is  difficult  to  bridle,  put  this  on  in  its  first 
form,  and  instead  of  leaving  the  head  loop  just  back  of  the  ears,  you  will 


HORSE     SENSE. 


97 


pull  it  back  on  the  neclc  near  where  the  collar  rests;  you  now  have  the 
means  of  inducing  the  horse  lu  hold  his  head  very  low,  while  you  put  on 
the  bridle.  When  you  put  your  hand  up  towards  his  ears  and  he  throws 
his  head  up  you  should  pull  on  the  rope,  which  will  hurt  his  mouth  up 
there,  and  by  holding  steadily  on  the  rope,  he  will  very  soon  drop  his 


^aoTAy. 


Cut  No.  Z7- 
YANKEE  BRIDLE. 

head  a  little  for  relief,  and  if  he  will  let  you  handle  his  ears,  you  should 
loosten  the  tension  on  the  rope,  and  if  he  resists  you  and  throws  his 
head  up  again  be  sure  to  pull  on  the  rope  again,  and  hold  steadily  until 
he  drops  his  head  a  little,  when  you  can  try  to  get  him  to  let  you  press 
his  head  downwards  and  if  he  lets  you  depress  it,  you  must  be  sure  to  let 
the  rope  loose  or  in  other  words  show  him,  that  when  he  holds  his  head 
high,  it  hurts  his  mouth,  and  v/hen  he  holds  it  low,  he  gets  relief.     It  re- 


98  HORSE     SENSE. 

quires  less  time  to  accomplish  the  object  than  it  does  to  tell  how  it  is  to 
be  done.     The  three  forms  show  about  how  it  operates.     Cut.  No.  38. 

TEACHING  THE  HORSE  TO  HOLD  THE  HEAD  LOW  TO  BE 
BRIDLED. 


Cut  No.  38. 

USED  FOR  CONTROLLING  THE  HORSE  WHILE  TREATING 
A  SORE   NECK. 

This  form  is  also  excellent  in  treating  a  collar  sore,  on  the  top  of 
the  horse's  neck,  by  drawing  his  head  low  and  tying  in  a  half  hitch,  as 
shown  in  the  middle  picture  (training  school  cut,  No.  38),  and  the  horse 
has  so  little  use  of  his  head  that  you  will  have  but  little  trouble  in 
handling  the  sore  neck,  which  is  otherwise  really  dangerous,  with  a  very 
sensitive  horse. 

CAN  BE  USED  TO  ADVANTAGE   FOR  THE   HARD   BITTED 
HORSE. 

This  form  of  the  "Yankee"  bridle  to  have  the  horse  hold  his  head  low, 
is  also  very  useful  in  curing  the  "lugger,"  "puller,"  or  "hard  bitted"  horse 
by  putting  it  on  over  the  bridle,  before  attaching  the  lines  to  the  bit, 
and  have  it  long  enough  to  extend  back  to  the  vehicle,  driving  with  only 
a  gentle  pressure  on  the  driving  bit,  and  as  soon  as  the  horse  begins  to 
bear  hard  on  the  bit,  just  pull  on  the  rope,  which  will  draw  his  nose  in- 
wards, and  for  relief  he  will  have  to  hold  it  in  still  farther;  but  just  as 
soon  as  he  slackens  in  his  speed,  or  lets  go  of  the  bit,  don't  fail  to 
loosen  the  tension  on  the  rope.  We  have  often  cured  the  "'lugger'  in  this 
way  in  a  very  few  drives.     But  if  the  driver  will  encourage  the  horse 


HORSE     SENSE.  99 

in   bearing   hard   on   tlio    bit    ho    will    soon   become   a    "lugger,"   as   his 
moulh  becomes  numb  and  then  he  bears  the  harder. 

ALWAYS  GIVE  THE  HORSE  RELIEF  AS  SOON  AS  HE 
YIELDS  TO   PRESSURE. 

If  you  drive  with  a  light  hand  and  do  not  encourage  the  horse  to 
bear  on  the  bit,  but  bring  to  bear  the  pressure  of  the  "Yankee"  bridle, 
the  horse  will  soon  be  willing  to  go  as  you  wish.  Please  remem- 
ber, that  if  the  horse  will  go  with  an  easy  rein,  you  should  be  willing 
to  let  him,  and  if  he  is  bound  to  rush  into  the  bit,  that  you  will  use  the 
rope  instead  of  the  bit,  and  he  will  soon  make  up  his  mind  that  when- 
ever he  determines  to  bear  on  the  bit,  that  the  rope  is  there  to  get  in 
its  work;  otherwise  he  is  not  to  be  hurt.  The  principle  always  should 
be  to  give  the  horse  no  pain  or  inconvenience  when  he  complies  with 
your  wishes,  and  when  he  does  not,  that  there  is  a  method  and  a  de- 
vice that  will  get  him  into  trouble,  but  it  will  all  be  made  easy  just  as 
soon  as  he  realizes  its  effect  and  will  comply. 


Cut  Nil.  yj. 

TRAINING  SCHOOL,  OK  THE  DIFFERENT  FORMS  OF  ROPE 

TO  THE  HEAD, 

Cut  No.  39  embraces  all  the  different  forms  completed,  shown  in  cuts 
Nos.  33  lo  38  inclusive;  all  of  which  should  be  studied  well  by  those  who 
want  to  become  proficient   in  handling  the  horse  through   the   medium 


100 


HORSE    SENSE. 


of  the  mouth,  which,  for  cheapness,  convenience,  rapidity  and  practica- 
bility (when  the  natural  law  is  complied  with)  excels  any  other  method 
for  all  kinds  of  horses,  that  the  au'.lior  has  had  any  experience  with. 
Since  a  boy  of  ten  years  of  age,  twenty  feet  of  manila  rope — quarter- 
inch  size — placed  on  the  horse's  head  in  a  great  variety  of  forms,  has 
been  the  most  satisfactory  in  management  and  education  of  all  kinds  and 
dispositions  of  anything  yet  invented  for  handling  horses  through  the 
medium  of  the  mouth.  It  can  be  used  very  gently  with  the  sensiti\  e 
animal,  but,  if  at  any  time  the  horse  becomes  unruly,  excited  or  badly 
frightened,  by  this  means  he  can  be  easily  controlled;  and,  if  in  the 
excitement  he  gets  pinched  by  the  mouth  rope,  he  must  be  relieved 
at  the  very  first  opportunity,  which  gives  the  horse  confidence  that  he 
has  a  friend  in  his  instructor,  as  well  as  a  master  of  the  situation.  This 
cut.  No.  39,  is  a  half-tone  photograph  taken  from  the  large  canvas 
picture  (painted  by  himself)  that  the  author  has  used,  as  an  illustra- 
tion in   farmers'  institute  work  for  a  great  many  years. 


TEACHING  THE   HORSE  TO  GO  IN  A  CIRCLE. 

The  reason  ior  using  this  means  in  preference  to  a  common  bridle, 
is,  first,  it  fits  so  neatly  to  the  lips  and  mouth  that  the  colt  readily 
yields  to  its  pressure,  and  second,  it  does  not  chafe  and  bruise  the  mouth 
as  does  an  ordinary  bit,  and  third,  it  is  so  much  cheaper  and  more 
easily  adjusted,  that  it  is  far  preferable  to  any  bridle  for  handling  either 
colts  or  aged  horses. 

After  leading  the  horse  from  the  stable,  take  a  bow  or  buggy  whip, 
and  by  gently  tapping  him  on  the  hind  parts,  he  will  be  induced  to  go 
around  in  a  small  circle  (at  first)  as  shown  in  cut  No.  40. 


HORSE     SENSE.  101 

MAKING  ACQUAINTANCE  WITH   BOTH   ENDS   OF   THE 
HORSE  AT  A   DISTANCE. 

This  exercise  is  equivalent  to  driving  him  single,  and  he  can  soon  be 
taught  to  start  and  stop  at  the  word. 

He  should  first  be  taught  to  go  in  only  one  direction  until  he  luUy 
understands  what  is  wanted  of  him;  then  he  may  be  turned  in  the 
opposite  direction,  but  care  must  be  taken  that  he  does  not  become 
confused,  or  his  instructor  excited,  as  frequently  mistakes  and  mis- 
understandings occur  right  here.  Don't  undertake  too  much  in  one 
day.  Remember  that  one  thing  well  learned  is  worth  any  number  of 
things  half  learned. 

HANDLING  THE  LEGS  OF  THE  MATURE  HORSE  WITH 

EASE. 

Take  a  long  strap,  like  a  tie-strap,  with  a  ring  or  loop  in  one  end, 
put  it  around  the  hind  leg  about  the  hock  or  above,  run  the  end  through 
the  ring  or  loop  and  let  it  slip  down  between  the  fetlock  and  hoof, 
then  with  one  hand  holding  the  cord  at  the  head,  commence  pulling 
gently  on  the  strap  at  the  foot.  If  the  horse  will  yield  to  it,  let  it 
down  again  very  soon,  as  seen  in  cut  No.  41,  and  so  on  until  the  horse 
will  allow  any  one  of  his  legs  to  be  handled  without  resistance. 


Cut  No.  41. 

THE   OLD    FARMER   SHOWING  THE   COLT   HOW  HE 

SHOULD   YIELD   UP   HIS  FEET. 

If  he  does  resist  the  pressure  of  the  strap  on  his  leg,  you  should  at 
that  very  instant,  make  a  greater  impression  at  his  mouth  with  the 
rope,  and  he  will  soon  realize  that  the  one  governs  the  actions  of  the 
other,  and  will  permit  the  legs  to  be  handled,  if  done  gently,  as  that 
hurts  less  than  at  the  mouth  when  he  resists.  This  is  a  far  better 
method  than  to  try  to  take  up  the  feet  in  the  ordinay  way  the  first  tim.e. 
In  this  way  the  horse  has  more  freedom  in  the  vtse  of  his  legs  and 
he  must  first  learn  that  he  is  not  to  be  struggled  with,  and  then  he 
readib   yields  his  feet  to  your  wish. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

COMBINATIONS  OF  THREE  TO  BE  REMEMBERED. 

The  following  paragraphs  are  made  up  in  threes  to  be  easily  remem- 
bered and  to  be  adhered  to  or  rejected  as  desired. 

THREE  IMPORTANT  LESSONS  TO  TEACH  THE  HORSE. 

Three  of  the  most  valuable  lessons  to  be  taught  the  horse  are:  To 
start  at  the  word  of  command,  stop  at  the  word  of  command,  and  to 
back  at  the  work  of  command,  all  good  and  valuable. 

THREE  ANNOYING  TORTURES  TO  THE  HORSE. 

Three  of  the  most  annoying  and  painful  tortures  to  the  horse  are: 
The  abuses  of  the  whip,  the  suffering  from  harsh  bits,  and  the  painful 
pressure  of  badly  fitted  collars,  neither  of  which  should  ever  be  per- 
mitted. 

THREE  IMPORTANT   CONDITIONS   OF  THE   FEET. 

Three  essential  conditions  of  the  feet  are:  Strong  walls,  elastic 
frog,  and  unmolested  bars  and  sole,  which  can  be  had  with  care. 

THREE  GREAT  ENEMIES  OF  THE  FEET. 

Three  great  enemies  to  good  feet  are:  Long  toe  and  heel  calks, 
large  nails  driven  high  up  in  the  foot,  and  the  wall  rasped  off  to  fit 
the  shoe,  neither  of  which   should  be  permitted. 

THREE  POINTS  IN  THE  CARE  OF  THE  HORSE. 

Three  valuable  points  in  the  care  of  the  horses  are:  Water  before 
feeding,  and  moderate  quantities  of  grain  and  hay,  given  often  and 
with  regularity.     Fifty  years'  experience  proves  this  true. 

THREE   IMPORTANT    FACTORS    IN    KEEPING   THE    HORSE 
IN  CONDITION. 
The    horse,    to    work   hard    and    keep    in    good    condition,    must    be 
feiai'ted  ofif  in  his  work  moderately,  worked  steadily,  and  never  annoyed 
or  fretted.     Try  this  thoroughly  and  you  will  be  convinced. 

THREE  CONDITIONS  THAT  WEAR  THE  HORSE  OUT 
RAPIDLY. 

To  wear  the  horse  out  rapidly,  and  never  have  him  in  condition,  is 
to  feed  irregularly  (as  to  quantity  or  time),  water  whenever  convenient, 
rush  him  into  his  work,  and  keep  him  on  his  nerve  all  the  time.  Don't 
try  these. 


HORSE     SENSE.  103 

THREE  POINTS  IN  GETTING  THE  GOOD  WILL  OF  THE 
HORSE. 

Three  things  to  do  to  gain  the  good  will  and  respect  of  the  horse 
are:  To  feed  frequently  small  quantities  of  sugar  from  the  hand,  treat 
him  kindlj'  in  his  stall  or  at  work,  and  always  give  him  a  good  bed. 
If  you  don't  do  this,  you  may  rue  it. 

THREE  THINGS  THAT  WILL  CAUSE  THE  HORSE  TO  FEAR 

US. 

Three  things  to  do  if  you  want  the  horse  to  fear  and  disrespect  you 
are:  Slam  the  stable  door  every  time  you  enter,  speak  in  a  loud, 
harsh  voice,  and  give  him  a  thrashing  in  the  stall.  It  won't  pay  to  try 
these. 

THREE  THINGS  TO  SECURE  SAFETY  WITH  THE  HORSE. 

If  you  would  have  a  safe  horse,  harness  carefully,  hitch  securely, 
and  drive  with  good  judgment.     Don't  forget  to  do  these  things. 

THREE  CONDITIONS  FOR  UNRELIABLE  HORSES. 

If  you  prefer  insecure,  unreliable  horses,  harness  carelessly,  hitch 
indififerently,  and  allow  them  to  start  and  stop  when  they  please.  It 
don't  pay  to  be  careless. 

THREE  THINGS  NECESSARY  TO  RE  ABLE  TO  CATCH  THE 
HORSE  ANYWHERE. 

Jf  you  would  have  the  horse  easy  to  catch  in  the  yard  or  pasture, 
when  you  reach  him  give  him  a  little  sugar,  caress  him,  and  put  the 
bridle  bit  into  his  mouth  with  the  utmost  gentleness.  If  you  do  these 
he  will  come  to  you. 

THREE   ESSENTIALS   IN   GROOMING  THE   HORSE. 

To  groom  the  horse  perfectly  is  to  clean  his  coat  thoroughly, 
brush  his  mane  and  tail  with  greatest  care,  and  remove  all  accumulations 
from  the  bottoms  of  his  feet.     Don't  forget  the  feet. 

THREE   CONDITIONS    IN    INDIFFERENT    GROOMING. 

To  groom  the  horse  indifferently  is  to  scratch  him  a  little  in  one 
place  and  then  in  another,  neglect  the  mane  and  tail,  or  pull  the  hair  out 
with  the  curry-comb,  and  never  even  look  at  the  bottoms  of  his  feet. 
If  you  have  any  respect  for  your  horse,  don't  do  it  this  way. 

THREE  CONDITIONS  TO   INSURE  THE   HORSE   STANDING 
STILL  WHEN  HITCHING. 

If  you  would  have  the  horse  stand  quietly  while  being  hitched 
single,  buckle  and  take  the  lines  in  your  hand,  pull  the  shafts  in  place 
gently,  and  hitch  tugs,  hold-back  straps  and  girth  before  attempting  to 
start.    This  insures  safety  to  begin  with. 


104  HORSE     SENSE. 

THREE  THINGS  THAT  WILL  MAKE  THE  HORSE  RESTLESS 
WHILE  BEING  HITCHED. 

To  make  the  horse  afraid  of  the  vehicle  and  restless  while  being 
hitched,  is  to  leave  him  standing  alone,  go  after  the  vehicle,  and  sur- 
prise him  by  dropping  the  shafts  on  his  back,  or  punch  him  with  them 
in  the  thighs  or  ribs.     This  kind  of  work  never  pays. 

THREE  THINGS  NECESSARY  TO  HAVE  THE  HORSE  STAND 
AFTER   HITCHING. 

To  have  the  horse  stand  htill  after  hitching,  is  to  handle  the  lines 
very  carefully,  get  into  the  vehicle  quietly,  and,  when  you  are  ready, 
give  him  the  command  to  go  in  a  gentle  manner.  Please  remember 
these. 

THREE  THINGS  THAT  WILL  MAKE  THE  HORSE  NERVOUS 
AFTER  HITCHING. 

To  have  the  horse  impatient  after  hitching,  is  to  handle  the  lines 
carelessly,  get  into  the  vehicle  in  a  hurry,  and  hit  him  a  slap  with  the 
lines  as  you  get  in.     Please  don't  do  any  of  these  things. 

THREE  ESSENTIALS  IN   KEEPING  THE  HORSE  SOUND 
AFTER  A   HEATED   DRIVE. 

To  keep  the  horse  sound  and  limber  after  a  heated  drive,  give  him 
a  few  swallows  of  water  often,  keep  him  in  motion  while  slowly  cooling, 
and  then  take  good  care  of  him  in  the  stable.  A  faithful  friend  deserves 
attention. 

THREE  THINGS  IN  REGARD  TO  THE  HORSE'S  SHOULDERS 
AT  WORK. 

Have  perfect-fitting,  clean  collars,  wash  the  shoulders  at  noon  and 
night  when  at  very  hard  work,  and  never  use  sweat-pads  to  fill  up  any 
deficiences  of  the  collar.     All  explained  in  Chapter  XXVII. 

THREE   THINGS   TO   REMEMBER   IN    REGARD   TO   THIS 
BOOK. 

This  book  is  prepared  for  those  who  are  studying  or  want  to  study 
the  horse  from  the  standpoint  of  his  nature;  means  and  methods  to 
demonstrate  to  the  horse  that  man  through  these  means  and  methods 
is  stronger  than  he  and  can  control  him,  and  in  consequence  of  man's 
superior  manifestation  of  power,  the  horse  is  not  to  be  injured,  but,  on 
the  other  hand,  he  is  to  be  educated  and  treated  in  a  most  humane 
manner,  for  obedience  and  compliance  to  man's  wishes.  Reader,  examine 
ir  carefully  before  condemning.  It  is  written  in  the  interest  of  the  horse 
as  well  as  his  owner,  and  the  hope  of  the  author  is,  that  both  will  share 
alike  in  its  precepts.  Man's  inhumanity  to  the  horse  makes  countless 
thousands  suffer. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

USE  AND  ABUSE  OF  THE  OVERHEAD  CHECK-REIN. 

Very  much  has  been  written  about  the  abuse  of  the  over-head 
check-rein,  but  this  subject,  hke  ahnost  all  others,  has  its  friends  and 
enemies;  but  the  matter  will  be  treated  from  both  sides  of  the  question 
believing  that  it  has  a  valuable  use  as  well  as  its  abuse. 

THE  "KIMBLE  JACKSON"   CHECK-REIN. 

The  over-head  or  over-draw  check-rein  was  devised  and  first  used  by 
the  old-time  driver,  Hiram  Woodruff,  on  the  trotting  horse  Kimball 
Jackson,  and  was  called  for  a  long  time  the  "Kimball  Jackson"  check- 
rein.  It  was  used  to  prevent  him  from  getting  his  head  down  when  he 
made  a  break,  which  by  the  side-check  rein,  he  could  not  be  brought 
back  to  the  trotting  gait  again.  This  "Kimball  Jackson"  check  answered 
so  good  a  purpose  with  a  great  many  trotting  and  pacing  horses,  that 
its  use  has  become  almost  universal.  But  the  trainer  knows  that  it 
is  very  hard  on  the  horse  to  keep  his  head  drawn  up  high  for  any  great 
length  of  time,  and  so  he  does  not  check  him  up  high  until  he  is 
ready  to  speed  him,  and  then  as  soon  as  he  has  gone  the  short  distance 
of  one  or  two  miles,  he  does  not  fail  to  uncheck  his  charge  and  give 
relief  to  the  horse. 

ITS  USE  WITH  THE  RACE-HORSE  DRIVERS. 

This  check  was  intended  to  be  used  on  the  track,  where  the  surface 
is  about  as  smooth  as  a  floor,  and  only  for  a  short  time,  without  giving 
relief,  by  letting  the  horse  have  a  chance  to  rest  his  tired  neck. 

ITS  ABUSE  WITH  THE  ROAD  RIDERS  AND  DRIVERS. 

The  use  of  this  check  became  so  popular  with  the  trotting  horse- 
men that  everybody  thought  it  must  be  just  the  check  to  be  used  on 
every  horse,  and  for  any  length  of  time,  and  today  it  has  become  almost 
universal  with  all  classes;  but  the  poor  horse  is  a  great  sufiferer  on  ac- 
count of  it  being  drawn  tight,  and  left  for  so  long  a  time,  in  conse- 
quence of  which  we  see  the  horse  turning  his  head  from  side  to  side  for 
relief  whenever  stopping,  and  if  we  go  to  him  and  uncheck  him  he  will 
immediately  put  his  head  down  near  the  ground  for  relief,  just  as  we 
would  put  our  head  forward  and  rub  the  back  of  our  neck  if  we  had 
been  looking  up  at  the  stars  for  two  or  three  minutes. 

THE  HORSE'S  COMPLAINT  OF  HIS  MASTER  LEAVING  HIM 
CHECKED  TIGHT. 

THE  STORY  TOLD  BY  THE  HORSE. 

,    Oh,  cruel,  unthinking,  unfeeling,  forgetful  and  neglectful   master.     If 
you  could  have  realized  the  cramped  feeling  and  pain  you  have  caused 


106 


HORSE    SENSE. 


me,  by  that  cruel  over-head  check,  while  you  left  my  head  checked  so 
high  while  you  were  gone  for  three  hours,  I  am  sure  you  would  have 
either  lengthened  my  check-rein  or  unchecked  me  entirely.  I  have  been 
turning  my  head  from  side  to  side,  to  shorten  the  distance  from  my 
back  to  my  numb  mouth,  from  the  pressure  of  the  bit  and  check,  with 
little  or  no  relief;  and  had  you  not  come  to  my  relief,  I  am  afraid  I 
should  have  gone  crazy  and  broke  things  all  to  pieces.  I  was  becoming 
desperate,  and  am  thankful  that  you  have  decided  to  put  me  into  the 
barn,  and  not  keep  my  head  strained  up  here  any  longer.  I  think 
if  you  could  be  made  to  understand  that  the  continual  straining  of  my 
neck  by  that  check  into  an  unnatural  position,  and  keeping  it  there  for 
hours  at  a  time,  is  shortening  my  days  of  usefulness  (stock  in  trade)  to 
you.  If  you  would  watch  my  actions  carefully  in  going  down  hill, 
you  could  see  that  with  my  head  pulled  up  so  high  it  is  very  hard  on 
my  back,  straining  on  my  fore  legs,  jarring  to  my  feet,  and  if  the  road 
is  uneven  it  is  one  continual  jerk  on  my  tender  mouth  and  kinks  in 
my  neck,  or  if  there  is  much  of  a  depression,  in  which  I  happen  to  step 
(as  I  cannot  see  where  I  am  putting  my  feet)  then  it  is  a  terrible  wrench 
on  my  back,  similar  to  you  stepping  of?  a  descent  in  the  dark  when  you 
least  expect  it. 


Cut  No.  42. 


Cut  No.   48 


GRACE  AND  BEAUTY  SPOILED 
Cut  No.  15. 


AS  NATURE  MADE  US. 
Cut  No.  44. 


APPLlEIi  AS  PUNISHMENT  TO 

.'KIMINALS.  A  LESSON  IN  CONTRAST. 

THE  HORSE  CALLS  ON  HIS  MASTER  TO  OBSERVE  CLOSE« 
LY  THE  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Oh,  master,  look  at  these  illustrations  and  then  ask  yourself  how 
you  would  like  to  be  so  situated  that  you  had  to  submit  to  being  put 
into  these  unnatural  positions,  and  kept  there  for  hours  without  relief, 
and  then  vou  can  have  some  little  idea  how  your  willing  and  faithful 
horse    is    sufferintr    daily    from    your    lack    of    sympathy    and    attention. 


HORSE     SENSE.  107 

Kindly  remember  this  lesson,  and  hereafter  when  you  leave  me  lengthen 
out  my  check-rein  or  let  nie  have  the  use  of  my  head,  and  we  will  think 
more  of  each  other.  I  will  be  a  better  horse  for  you  and  we  will  both 
enjoy  each  other  more,  and  appreciate  the  comforts  of  life  to  a  greater 
degree. 

TO  THE  OWNERS  OF  FINE  HORSES. 

If  the  city  men  who  own  good  horses,  as  well  as  others,  will  take 
a  walk  through  their  streets,  or  even  in  samller  towns,  and  observe 
the  horses  hitched  along  the  w-alks  with  their  heads  checked  high  by 
this  cruel  over-head  check,  and  watch  them  turning  their  heads  from 
side  to  side  for  relief,  they  will  have  some  idea  what  a  punishment  it  is. 
and  how  much  unnecessary  punishment  the  horse  is  enduring  for  the 
want  of  a  little  consideration  for  his  comfort. 

DEMAND    FOR   RELIEF   IF   OWNERS   KNEW  THE   HORSE'S 
SUFFERINGS. 

If  the  owners  of  fine  turnouts  knew  that  their  coachmen  sitting 
on  the  seat  of  the  carriage,  whip  in  hand,  ready  to  punish  the  horses 
every  time  they  sought  relief  from  that  over-head  check  by  turning  their 
heads  while  standing  in  front  of  the  residence  where  the  ladies  are 
making  a  fashionable  call,  there  is  but  little  doubt  but  positive  instruc- 
tions would  be  issued  that  the  driver  should  get  down  and  imcheck 
the  horses  and  entertain  them  while  the  guests  were  enjoying  them- 
selves in  the  house,  even  if  the  call  is  not  longer  than  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes. 

LADIES  COULD  NOT  ENJOY  CALLS  IF  THEY  KNEW  HOW 
MUCH  THE  HORSES  SUFFER. 

If  the  ladies  only  realized  v.hat  suffering  their  fine  horses  are  endur- 
ing for  their  pleasure,  a  new  order  of  arrangement  would  be  enforced  at 
once,  and  the  horses  would  find  that  the  driver  would  have  to  relieve 
their  heads  every  time  they  stopped,  or  they  could  not  enjoy  their 
ride  or  visit.  Ladies  generally  are  far  more  sympathetic  than  men, 
and  they  can  do  much  for  the  relief  of  the  horse  from  the  cruel  over- 
head check-rein  as  well  as  in  other  respects. 

SERMON  TO  HORSE  OWNERS. 

On  a  certain  Sabbath  a  friend  of  the  author  was  passing  by  a  cer- 
tain church,  before  which  were  hitched  many  teams,  the  property  of 
affluent  Christians.  The  owners  and  their  families  were  inside,  listen- 
ing, no  doubt,  to  the  old,  old  story  of  loving  kindness,  man's  brother- 
hood, consideration  for  the  weak  and  lowly,  protection  to  the  helpless, 
etc. 

WHILE   THE    HORSE    SUFFERED     THEIR     OWNERS     WOR- 
SHIPPED. 

Those  Christian  horse-owners  were  probably  unctiously  seconding 
a  prayer  for  the  coming  of  that  kingdom  in  which  suffering  would  be 
tmkriown,    and    the    milk    of   human    kindness    Vvould    ceaselessly    flow; 


108  HORSE     SENSE. 

they  were  probably  contributing  liberally  to  the  work  of  lifting  out  of 
the  darkness  of  barbarism  and  up  into  the  shining  light  of  modern 
civilization  the  benighted  heathen  of  far  ofif  lands.  But  all  this  time  not 
a  few  of  the  horses  were  enduring  a  torture  more  refined  and  exquisite 
than  any  that  barbarous  heathens  could  invent.  The  heads  of  the  poor 
brutes  were  held  in  cruelly  unnatural  positions,  and  their  necks  were 
heartlessly  strained  and  tortured  by  that  infamous  device  of  fashion 
— the  over-head  check.  If  the  Father  is  mindful  of  the  sparrow  that 
falls,  should  not  His  worshippers  be  mindful  of  the  suffering  of  that 
noblest  asd  best  of  the  brute  creation,  the  horse? 

SATISFACTION   OF   THE   HORSES  AND  THEIR   FRIEND   IN 
TIME  OF  NEED. 

The  friend  unchecked  the  tortured  horses,  and  for  a  moment  en- 
joyed the  keenest  satisfaction  in  seeing  the  poor  animals  straighten, 
stretch  and  twist  their  necks  to  get  cords  and  muscles  into  their  nor- 
mal positions  once  more.  He  fancied,  too,  that  he  saw  thanks  and 
gratitude  in  the  eyes  of  the  relieved  semi-human  beasts.  He  passed 
on,  happier  for  what  he  had  just  done. 

SABBATH  DAY'S  RECORD  WITH  THE  RECORDING  ANGEL. 

In  auditing  the  final  accounts  of  the  inside  worshippers  and  the 
outside  philanthropist,  that  Sabbath  day's  record  will  appear  on  the 
books  of  the  recording  angel;  but  which,  think  you,  will  carry  with  it 
the  larger  credit,  those  of  the  disciples  of  empty  form  and  ceremony 
inside,  or  that  of  he  who  was  doing  the  Master's  work  outside?  "In- 
as  much  as  ye  have  done  it  unto  the  least  of  these  ye  have  done  it 
unto  me." 

Note — Let  this  be  a  lesson  to  be  remembered  by  all  church-going 
people,  and  those  who  heed  it  can  enjoy  the  service  better  by  knowing 
that  their  horses  are  comfortable  instead  of  suffering. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

IMPORTANCE  OF  A  GOOD  MOUTH  FOR  THE  HORSE. 

We  all  agree  that  there  is  no  point  in  connection  with  a  horse  that 
contributes  so  much  to  the  pleasure,  comfort  and  safely  of  either 
riijing  or  driving  him  as  what  might  be  called  a  responsive  mouth,  or 
cue  which  obeys  promptly  the  slightest  intimation  from,  rider  or  driver 
of  restraint  or  guidance.  A  good  mouth  is,  to  a  large  extent,  natural 
to  a  horse,  so  that  some  horses,  if  properly  handled,  can  have  their 
mouth  made  almost  perfect.  Such  horses  (of  a  team,  as  a  rule)  must 
have  their  heads  so  related  to  one  another  that  they  can  bend  their 
•heads  upon  their  necks  with  ease. 

TENDER  MOUTHS  THE  RESULT  OF  BAD  HANDLING. 

If  horses  so  formed  have  bad  mouths,  it  is  usually  the  result  of 
irrational  handling,  unless  they  happen  to  be  unduly  nervous  or  unin- 
telligent animals. 

Jointed  or  snaffle  bits  seldom  injure  the  branches  of  the  lower 
jaw,  but  sometimes  press  the  cheeks  against  the  anterior  molars,  and 
abrade  the  inner  surface  of  the  cheeks,  especially  if  these  molars  are 
rough.  Of  the  numerous  ill  results  of  soreness  and  discomfort  in 
connection  with  the  mouth,  we  may  mention  the  following  faults  and 
troubles  noticeable  when  riding  or  driving,  viz.: 

TONGUE  LOLLING,  CROSSING  THE  JAWS,  ETC.     IS  OFTEN 
FROM  BAD  xMOUTHS. 

Crossing  the  jaws,  keeping  the  mouth  more  or  less  open,  lolling  the 
tongue,  slobbering,  tossing  the  head  to  one  side  or  the  other,  pulling 
out  in  double  harness  or  crowding  in,  going  cornerwise,  sidelining,  not 
going  into  the  bit,  carrying  the  head  unsteadily,  pulling,  bearing  down, 
balking,  rearing,  plunging  or  rushing  when  starting  off  (especially  out 
of  the  stable),  restlessness  while  standing,  breaking  their  gait  (or 
going  unsteadily  in  harness  when  going  within  the  horse's  speed), 
mixing,  hitching  or  hopping  (either  in  front  or  behind),  interfering; 
and,  last  but  not  least  in  importance,  bridle  lameness.  If  one  con- 
siders for  a  moment,  he  can  realize  the  extreme  sensitiveness  of  these 
sores,  and  the  excruciating  pain  a  horse  must  suffer  when  facing  the 
bit  in  the  morning;  so  that  it  is  not  astonishing  that  some  horses  hang 
back  when  first  taken  out,  and  especially  if  they  are  predisposed  to  be- 
com.e  balkers.  The  high-couraged  horse,  though  he  may  hesitate  at 
first,    will,    as   soon    as    the  part   becomes    numbed,    begin   to   pull,    and 


110  HORSE     SENSE. 

show  evidence  of  the  discomfort  he  is  sufifering  in  the  many  ways  al- 
ready described— such  as  crossing  the  jaws,  going  with  the  mouth  open, 
head  to  one  side,  etc. 

IRREGULAR    GAITED    HORSES     OFTEN     CAUSED  BY  BAD 
MOUTHS. 

In  addition  to  the  discomfort  and  difficulty  of  driving  a  horse  with, 
a  bad  mouth,  as  well  as  the  danger,  especially  in  crowded  streets,  and 
the  unsightliness  of  his  carriage,  as  in  turning  the  head  in  and  out, 
etc.,  a  bad  mouth  is  apt  to  produce  irregularity  in  the  gait  and  impaired 
control  of  the  legs. 

HITCHING  AND  HOBBLING  OFTEN  FORM  BAD  MOUTHS. 
What  is  called  "hitching"  or  "hopping"  (generaly  of  a  hind  leg), 
although  also  due  to  weakness,  too  heavy  a  load,  driving  beyond  speed, 
heavy  shoes,  etc.,  is  not  infrequently  due  to  tenderness  or  soreness  o! 
the  mouth,  or  to  placing  the  bit  too  high  in  the  mouth.  There  is  no 
such  thing  as  a  congenital  "hitcher."  This  habit  is  always  the  result  of 
bad  management. 

HIGH   COURAGED   HORSES  SHOULD   HAVE  THE   MOUTHS 
TREATED   CAREFULLY. 

In  high-c5uraged  horses,  whose  mouths  have  become  permanently 
injured  from  the  bit,  it  is  a  difficult  matter  to  overcome  the  habit; 
but  if  the  mouth  is  allowed  to  heal  thoroughly,  the  bit  placed  as  low  in 
it  as  the  animal  will  stand  and  face  it  with  a  moderate  degree  of  firm- 
ness, and  not  put  his  tongue  over  the  bit,  the  fault  can  often  be  remedied. 

OFTEN   THE    UNSTEADY    GAIT    IS    FROM   A    BAD    MOUTH. 

Mixing  the  gait  is  usually  attributed  to  want  of  balance,  resulting  from 
an  improper  distribution  of  weight  in  shoeing,  and  no  doubt  this  is  the 
case  in  some  instances;  but  the  cause  should  be  more  frequently  at- 
tributed to  the  mouth.  You  will  generally  find  that  a  horse  inclined  to 
mix  in  gait  has  an  unsteady  mouth.  He  does  not  take  the  bit  with  the 
necessary  firmness,  and  keeps  retracting  his  tongue,  or  putting  his  tongue 
over  the  bit,  so  that  the  pressure  from  the  bit  comes  on  the  branches 
of  the  lower  jaw,  which  always  gives  rise  to  irritability  and  a  want  of 
confidence  in  the  animal's  manner  of  going. 

HORSE'S  GAIT  CONTROLLED  WITH  COMFORT  TO  THE 
TONGUE. 

The  tendency  to  mix  the  gait  can  usually  be  overcome  by  patient  and 
persevering  effort  to  get  the  tongue  accustomed  to  pressure.  The  bit 
should  be  placed  well  up  in  the  mouth,  and  be  as  comfortable  a  one  as 
possible.  Carelessness  in  the  position  in  which  the  bit  is  placed  in  the 
horse's  mouth  often  results  in  injury  to  that  very  sensitive  part  of  his 
organization. 


HORSE     SENSE.  Ill 

BRIDLE  BITS  FOR  DIFFERENT  HORSES. 

A  multitude  of  diffcretit  bits  have  been  devised  for  the  control  of 
the  various  and  peculiar  habits  of  our  horses,  most  of  which  have  been 
designed  to  punish  and  irritate  the  sensitive  and  responsive  medium  of 
communication  between  the  driver  and  the  faithful  horse. 


Cut  No.  46. 
STRAIGHT  BAR-BIT. 

Probably  the  straight  bar-bit  will  come  nearer  being  acceptable  to  the 
majority  of  horses  than  any  other  style  of  bit.  One  special  feature  of 
the  straight  bar-bit  is  to  get  one  just  the  right  length  for  the  horse's 
mouth.  A  great  many  of  these  bits  in  use  are  too  long,  and  occasion- 
ally we  find  one  that  is  too  short.  The  bit  should  be  smooth  and  swelled 
at  the  ends,  as  shown  in  Cut  No.  46 — and  they  should  always  be  kept 
clean. 


Cut  No.  47. 
JOINTED  OR  SNAFFLE-BIT. 

Some  horses  work  more  agreeably  in  this  character  of  bit  than  any 
other.     It    gives   more    room   for   the   tongue   and   the   pressure    is   more 
on  the  jaws  of  the  mouth  than  with  the  straight  bit.     Cut  No.  47  repre- 
sents a  very  good  pattern  and  one  that  many  horses  prefer  to  others. 
SEVERE   BITS  OFTEN  INCREASE  THE  DIFFICULTY. 

Punishment  bits  are  intended  to  overcome  the  mischief  already  done 
by  some  bungling,  unthinking,  unfeeling  and  careless  handler;  but  we 
are  sorry  to  say  that,  as  a  rule,  they  result  in  making  a  bad  matter 
worse. 

THE  HORSE  BETWEEN  TWO  FIRES. 

With  the  punishment  by  the  whip  at  the  rear  end  of  the  animal,  and 
a  harsh  and  mutilating  bit  at  the  front  end.  tlie  liorse  is  between  two 
fires;  and  if  he  docs  not  balk,  rear,  plunge,  and  run  away,  it  is  a  wonder. 


112 


HORSE     SENSE. 


CAREFULLY  SELECT  THE  BRIDLE  BIT  ADAPTED  TO  THE 
HORSE. 

In  the  commencement  of  the  harness  education  of  the  horse,  the 
selection  and  adjustment  of  the  bit  is  of  the  first  importance.  It  should 
be  of  the  smoothest  character,  and  adapted  to  the  width  of  the  mouth. 
Many  bits  are  too  long,  and  a  few  too  short.  The  bridle  should  be  so 
fitted  to  the  head  as  to  let  the  bit  rest  easy  in  the  mouth;  not  too 
long  nor  too  short.  The  bridle  should  not  be  so  long  in  the  headstall, 
■as  to  drop  the  bit  so  low  down  in  the  mouth  that  the  rings  of  the  bit 
-will  be  drawn  into  the  mouth;  nor  should  it  be  so  short  as  to  draw  the 
angles  of  the  mouth  upwards,  and  become  a  constant  source  of  annoy- 
ance to  the  animal. 

The  question  of  the  proper  bit  for  each  horse  is  one  that  can  only 
be  determined  by  trial,  and  if  several  changes  are  necessary  we  should  not 
be  discouraged.     Try,  try  again. 


Cut  No.  48. 
TONGUE-LOLLING    BIT. 

To  the  horse  that  is  nervous  about  keeping  his  tongue  under  the  bit 
and  constantly  trying  to  get  it  over  the  bit  and  let  it  hang 
out  at  one  side  of  the  mouth,  this  bit  shown  in  Cut  No.  48  is  well  adapted 
for  the  purpose,  and  is  just  as  easy  in  the  mouth  as  the  straight  bar-bit, 
except  the  annoyance  of  the  plate,  which  should  be  kept  loose  on  the 
bit  by  keeping  perfectly  clean. 

ATTENTION  TO  THE  HORSE'S  TEETH. 

The  teeth  of  the  equine,  like  the  human  race  in  civilized  life,  require 
close  attention.  Generally  the  dilliculty  in  the  human  family  is  in  cut- 
ting the  first  set  of  teeth,  but  with  the  horse  the  greatest  trouble  is  in 
getting  the  second  or  permanent  teeth;  and  as  the  horse's  mouth  is  a 
-dark  and  difficult  place  to  examine,  he  is  frequently  left  to  suffer  seri-, 
ously  before  proper  attention  is  given  to  his  condition. 

YOUNG  HORSES'  MOUTHS  REQUIRE  TO  BE  LOOKED 
AFTER  CAREFULLY. 

Young  horses'  mouths  should  be  looked  after  frequently,  to  see  that 
the  temporary  or  milk  teeth  are  shed  or  removed  at  the  proper  time,  so 
that  the  permanent  teeth  m.ay  come  in  regularly,  and  leave  the  grinding 


IIOKSE     SENSE.  113 

surtaces   of  the  Icctli  of   both   jaws  coming  together  as  they   should   for 
perfect  mastication. 

THE   CAPS   OF  THE   TEMTORARY  TEETH    MAY   NEED    RE- 
MOVING. 

If  the  caps  of  tlic  temporary  teeth  remain  too  long,  they  should  be 
removed  by  the  aid  of  forceps. 

THE  INSIDE  OF  THE  UPPER  AND  THE  OUTSIDE  OF  THE 
LOWER  TEETH   WEAR. 

It  will  be  observed  that  the  upper  jaw  is  wider  than  the  under  and, 
as  a  consequence,  the  greatest  wear  will  be  on  the  inner  portions  of  the 
upper  teeth  and  the  outer  of  the  lower,  which  often  leaves  rough,  jagged 
edges  of  upper  teeth  next  the  cheeks  (outside),  and  the  same  condition 
on  the  teeth  of  the  lower  jaw  next  the  tongue  (inside),  and  these  pro- 
jections .'^hould  be  smoothed  down  by  the  use  of  the  guarded  mouth 
rasp.  This  is  all  that  is  generally  needed  to  keep  the  horse's  mouth  and 
teeth  in  good  condition.  Anyone  can  do  this  work,  as  but  little  skill  or 
labor  is  required. 

LONG  TEETH  SHOULD  BE  CUT  OFF.  AND  DECAYED  ONES 
EXTRACTED. 

Sometimes  it  will  be  found  that  the  first  or  last  molars  are  too  long, 
and  then  it  will  be  necessary  to  have  a  veterinarian  cut  them  ofif,  or  dress 
them  down  level  with  the  other  teeth,  so  the  horse  can  masticate  his 
food  properly.  In  all  cases  where  the  horse  is  "quidding"  his  food, 
slobbering,  holding  his  head  to  one  side  while  chewing,  or  giving  any 
evidence  that  he  is  sufifering  pain,  a  careful  examination  should  be  made, 
and  the  trouble  remedied  at  once.  If  a  decayed  or  broken  tooth  is 
found,  it  should  be  taken  out.  If  there  are  any  too  long,  have  them 
cut  ofif,  and  all  projections  and  sharp  corners  dressed  down;  but  in  no 
case  have  the  grinding  surfaces  of  the  teeth  interfered  with,  except  as 
here   indicated. 

The  horse's  health  and  actions  often  depend  on  the  condition  of  the 
teeth,  consequently  it  is  a  good  plan  to  have  the  mouth  and  teeth  ex- 
amined at  regular  intervals,  and  if  anything  is  wrong  have  it  attended 
to  in  time  by  a  skillful  operator. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


FITTING   THE    COLLAR   TO    THE    HORSE. 

The  liarness  service  of  the  horse  is  largely  done  by  the  shoulders, 
then  from  the  vast  amount  of  work  he  docs  for  us,  all  will  agree  that  he 
justly  deserves  a  perfect  fitting  collar,  and  nothing  short  of  this  should 
satisfy  any  horse  owner,  and  like  a  bridle-bit,  perfectly  adapted  to  the 
mouth  of  the  horse,  is  a  perfectly  fitting  collar  to  the  neck  and  shoulders 
of  the  animal. 

THE  COLLAR  MANUFACTURER  SOAKS  THE  LEATHER 
BEFORE  STUFFING  THE  COLLAR. 

The  collar  manufacturer  stuffs  and  shapes  the  collar  over  an  inanimate 
form,  intended  to  represent  the  shape  cf  the  horse's  neck  in  breadth  and 
thickness,  the  material  being  thoroughly  soaked,  and  as  limp  as  a  rag. 
It  is  then  left  to  dry.  When  dry  the  collar  is  so  firm  and  stiff,  that  in 
many  cases  it  is  impossible  to  buckle  the  hames  tight  enough  to  bring 
the  collar  to  the  shape  of  the  horse's  neck,  and  the  shoulders  are  often 
compelled  to  adapt  themselves  to  the  collar,  rather  than  the  latter  to  the 
former. 

THE  COLLAR  SHOULD   FIT   THE   NECK  AND   SHOULDERS 
CLOSELY. 

The  necks  and  shoulders  of  no  two  horses  are  alike,  and  it  is  very 
seldom  indeed  that  the  shoulders  of  any  one  horse  are  exactly  the  same 
in  size  and  form.  The  collar  that  will  fit  a  horse  in  the  early  spring, 
when  he  is  fat,  will  generally  be  found  too  large  at  harvest  time,  and  the 
shoulder  of  the  fat  horse  is  different  in  form  from  what  it  is  when  he  is 
thin  in  flesh;  consequently,  the  importance  of  watching  the  adaptation  of 
the  collar  to  the  shoulders. 

EVERY  HORSE   SHOULD   HAVE   HIS  OWN   COLLAR. 

Every  horse  should  have  his  own  collar,  and  it  should  always  fit  close 
up  to  the  neck  along  its  entire  v/idth;  never  tight  at  the  points  of  the 
shoulder  and  loose  towards  the  top  of  the  neck,  nor  the  reverse.  Al- 
ways have  the  hame-straps  properly  adjusted  to  suit  the  form  of  the 
horse's  neck  at  the  top  and  bottom,  and  always  be  absolutely  sure  that 
the  lower  hame-strap  is  buckled  as  tight  as  the  thickness  of  the  neck  of 
the  horse  will  permit,  every  time  he  is  harnessed. 


HORSE     SENSE.  -    115 

ALMOST    ALL    DAMAGE    DONE   THE    HORSE'S    NECK   AND 
SHOULDERS  BY  LARGE  COLLARS. 

Loosely  fitting  collars  and  carelessness   in  adjustment  of  the  hames 
•do  great  mischief  to  our  horses'   shoulders.     See   Cut  No.  49. 


Cut  No.  49. 
A  GOOD  GENERAL  FORM  OF  COLLAR. 

ADJUSTMENT  OF  THE  HAME-TUG  MUST  BE  MADE  BY  THE 
DRIVER. 

The  adjustment  of  the  hame-tugs,  so  as  to  bring  the  draught  on  the 
shoulder  at  the  proper  place,  is  also  a  very  important  matter  that  de- 
serves the  closest  attention.  If  ihe  draught  is  too  low^,  the  movement 
of  the  shoulders  in  walking  gives  too  much  motion,  backw^ard  and  for- 
ward, to  the  collar,  and  is  almost  certain  to  cause  soreness,  both  at  the 
points  of  the  shoulder  and  at  the  top  of  the  neck;  and  if  the  draught  is 
too  high,  the  injury  will  be  equally  as  great.  There  is  just  a  proper 
place  (according  to  the  conformation  of  each  and  every  horse — see  cut 
No.  50)  for  the  draught  of  the  hame-tug,  and  the  owner  or  handler  should 
be  observing  enough  to  know  where  that  is,  as  no  rule  can  be  given  that 
will  be  sui^cient  for  all  horses;  it  must  be  left  to  the  good  judgment  of 
those  in  authority.  When  the  hame-tugs  are  just  at  the  proper  place  there 
will  be  but  very  little  motion  at  the  top  of  the  hames  as  the  horse  walks 
along;  but  when  too  low,  there  will  be  seen  a  weaving  back  and  forth 
of  the  hames  at  the  top.  which  shows  that  the  draught  is  too  near  the 


116 


HORSE     SENSE. 


point  of  the  shoulders,  and  the  collar  is  kept  in  a  constant  twist  one  way 
and  the  other,  which  is  very  injurious  to  the  shoulders  and  top  of  the 
neck.  This  is  generally  the  condition  when  the  top  of  the  neck  and 
points  of  the  shoulders  are  sore  at  the  same  time. 


Cut  No.  50. 
ADJUSTMENT   OF   HAME  TUG. 

Now,  we  have  represented  how  the  collar  should  fit  the  horse's 
shoulders,  and  also  told  you  in  what  condition  the  collar  is  made;  but 
have  not  yet  told  you  outright  just  how  to  get  a  perfect  fit  for  each  and 
every  horse,  which  must  be  done  or  you  will  have  a  right  to  feel  that  the 
subject  is  left  almost  where  it  was  started. 

TO  MAKE  COLLAR  FIT  NECK  AND  SHOULDERS. 

The  horse  collar  is  made  over  a  form  that  suits  the  taste  of  the  maker, 
and  while  it  is  thoroughly  wet.  Is  it  not  well,  then,  to  make  the  collar 
to  fit  the  form  of  the  neck  and  shoulders  of  the  horse  that  is  to  wear  it? 
To  do  this,  select  a  collar  of  the  size  and  general  form  best  suited  to 
the  horse,  wrap  it  with  thoroughly  wet  cloths  wound  round  it,  and  let  it 
remain  in  them  over  night.  In  the  morning  put  the  collar — new  or  old — 
(  n  the  horse,  and  with  the  hame  strap  draw  the  collar  snugly  to  sides 


HORSE     SENSE.  117 

WHEN  SOAKED,  THE  HORSE  CAN  ADAPT  THE  COLLAR  TO 
HIS  SHOULDER  BY  WORK. 

After  the  collar  has  been  soaked  and  fitted  to  the  neck  of  the  horse, 
by  means  of  the  hame-straps,  and  hame-tugs  properly  adjusted,  then 
work  the  horse  moderately  through  the  day,  and  the  collar  will  be  better 
fitted  to  that  particular  horse  and  to  every  inequality  of  his  shoulders 
than  the  best  expert  in  the  whole  country  could  do  over  an  inanimate 
form.  This  is  the  easiest,  the  best,  and  the  most  perfect  manner  of 
fitting  a  collar  that  we  have  ever  found,  and  dispenses  with  pads  and 
sore    shoulders    if    well    done. 

SOAK  THOROUGHLY  AS  OFTEN  AS  THE  COLLAR  IS 
FOUND  NOT  TO  FIT. 

If  you  have  fitted  collars  to  your  horses  by  this  method  in  the  spring, 
when  they  were  fat,  and  then  worked  them  down  thin  in  flesh,  it  will  be 
necessary  to  soak  the  collars  again  and  readjust  them  as  before,  and  in 
this  way  you  do  not  have  to  be  at  the  expense  of  pads,  which  have  a 
tendency  to  soften  the  shoulders  rather  than  toughen  them,  and  are  also 
an  addition  to  the  harness  that  is  entirely  unnecessary  if  the  collars  are 
properly  fitted. 

HAME-STRAPS  SHOULD  BE  BUCKLED  TIGHT. 

Always  see  to  it  that  the  hame-stramps  are  buckled  tight  enough  to 
draw  the  collar  close  up  to  the  sides  of  the  horse's  neck  its  entire  width, 
so  there  is  no  space  whatever  between  the  sides  of  the  horse's  neck  and 
the  collar.  If  the  horse  shrinks  in  flesh  this  matter  of  drawing  the  hame- 
straps  up  a  little  closer  is  of  the  utmost  importance  in  preserving  the 
good  condition  of  the  shoulders. 

THE  SHOULDER  AND  COLLAR  MUST  BE  KEPT  CLEAN. 

The  shoulders  and  the  collar  should  be  kept  scrupulously  clean  where 
the  horse  is  constantly  at  hard  labor,  and  a  weak  solution  of  salt  and 
water,  and  sometimes  a  decoction  of  white  oak  bark,  as  a  wash  for  the 
shoulders,  every  night  after  the  day's  work  is  done,  is  found  to  be  ex- 
cellent in  practice. 

BADLY  ADJUSTED  COLLARS  ONE  GREAT  CAUSE  OF 
BALKY  HORSES. 

There  is  but  little  question  that  the  horse  suffers  more,  and  many  of 
his  bad  habits  are  traceable  to,  the  abuse  of  his  mouth  through  the  agency 
of  torturing  bits  and  badly  fitting  collars  than  from  all  else  combined. 
Should  not,  therefore,  all  thinking,  feeling,  sympathizing  humanity  who 
have  anything  to  do  with  horses,  give  these  two  subjects  more  careful 
attention  in  the  future  and  thereby  relieve  much  of  the  torture  now  in- 
flicted upon  man's  best  animal  friend? 

NOTE.— If  this  little  book  serves  but  the  one  purpose  of  supplying 
all  horses  that  have  to  draw  loads  with  perfectly  fitting  collars,  the  au- 
thor will  feel  fully  compensated  for  the  time  and  labor  he  has  devoted  to 
the   subject   of  the   horse   and   his   friends. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 


NATURAL  FOOT  OF  THE  HORSE  AND  HOW  TO  PRESERVE 

IT. 

The  foot  of  the  horse  is  one  of  the  most  important  (and  least  under- 
stood) part  of  his  organization.  It  should  be  of  proportionate  size  to 
the  animal.  The  wall  should  be  more  or  less  upright,  smooth,  thick  and 
tough,  about  twice  the  length  at  the  toe  that  it  is  at  the  heel  (from  the 
hair  to  the  ground  surface),  and  well  spread  at  the  heel. 

THE  FROG  AND  SOLE  NATURE'S  PROTECTION  OF  THE 
FOOT. 

The  sole  should  be  concave,  and  provided  with  good  strong  bars 
(braces)  to  aid  the  frog  in  its  elastic  action.  The  frog  (nature's  heel 
cushion,  jar  protector  and  heel  spreader)  should  be  large,  smooth  and 
elastic. 

We  here  present  cuts  of  the  plantar  (or  bottom  surface)  of  several 
feet,  to  show  their  difference  in  conformation  and  appearance  to  the 
careful  observer. 


The  foot  reaift,-  fyr  the  shof, s/louinff 
froQ  fuui  fjors  as  thei/  should  be  I'e/i 


Sound  but  flcu  foot 


Cut  No.  51. 
GROUND  SURFACE   OF  TWO   FAIRLY  GOOD   FEET. 

Fig.  I  shows  the  healthy,  well-formed  foot,  ready  for  the  fitting  of  the 
shoe  without  the  use  of  the  "butrass,"  or  paring  knife,  leaving  the  frog, 


HORSE     SENSE. 


119 


bars  and  sole  in  their  natural  condition,  except  just  where  the  shoe  bear- 
ing comes  in  contact  with  the  foot.     Cut.  No.  51. 

Fig.  2  represents  a  sound  but  rather  flat  foot.  The  heel  is  well  spread, 
and  the  frog  is  large  and  elastic,  which  is  of  the  first  importance  to  the 
free  movement  of  any  horse.     Cut  No.  51. 


Cx)nira/:/£d  toot  Dn/ify^  rrmtmrfed  fhot 

Cut  No.  52. 
GROUND    SURFACE    OF   TWO    CONTRACTED    FEET. 

Fig.  3  shows  the  foot  which  has  been  shod  with  thick-keeled  shoes, 
keeping  the  frog  from  coming  in  contact  with  the  floor  upon  which  the 
horse  is  forced  to  stand,  or  the  hard  road  on  which  he  must  travel  in  his 
work.  In  this  case  the  foot  has  been  deprived  of  nature's  cushion  (the 
frog)  for  warding  off  a  part  of  the  jar  to  the  column  of  bones  above,  and 
also  nature's  heel-spreader,  the  result  of  which  is  to  bring  the  bearing 
upon  the  wall  of  the  foot  altogether,  which  produces  more  or  less  in- 
flammation, and  consequent  absorption  and  contraction  at  the  heel — the 
thinnest  part  of  the  wall.     Cut  No.  52. 


after  Haobner 

Cut  No.  53. 
GROUND   SPACE  AND   WALL  OF   FOUNDERED   FOOT. 


120  HORSE     SENSE. 

Fig.  4  represents  the  foot  in  a  very  badly  contracted  condition,  from 
a  similar  cause,  and  to*  such  a  degree  that  it  renders  the  horse  compara- 
tively worthless  in  his  work,  to  say  nothing  of  the  constant  suffering  he 
must  endure  from  the  violation  of  the  general  laws  to  which  he  has  been 
subjected  at  the  hands  of  his  owner,  groom  or  blacksmith.     Cut  No.  52. 

Figs.  5  and  6  show  the  sole  (or  plantar  surface)  and  wall  of  the 
foundered  foot.  This,  again,  is  no  inherent  fault  of  the  horse,  but  is 
usually  the  result  of  bad  handling,  hard  driving,  standing  when  hot,  ex- 
posed to  draughts  of  air,  drinking  cold  water  when  heated,  etc. 

The  front  feet  should  be  a  trifle  larger  than  the  hind  ones,  and  on 
no  account  should  one  be  permitted  to  grow  out  of  proportion  to  its 
mate.     Cut  No.  53. 

CARE   IN   THE   EARLY   LIFE   OF  THE   HORSE  IS   A    GREAT 
ADVANTAGE. 

Attention  to  the  horse's  feet  should  commence  in  very  early  colt- 
hood,  and  continue  through  life.  The  wall  of  the  foot  should  be  fre- 
quently rasped  down  even  with  the  sole,  and  kept  level,  to  maintain  per- 
fectly sound  feet  and  unblemished  limbs.  If  the  wall  of  the  foot  is  kept 
shortened  to  its  union  with  the  sole  there  will  be  no  necessity  for  cutting 
the  bars,  trimming  the  frog,  or  gouging  out  the  sole;  the  horse  will  have 
a  perfect  bearing  for  the  column  of  bones  of  every  limb,  stand  firm,  with 
his  feet  well  under  him,  and  move  off  unfalteringly. 

KEEP  THE  COLTS  FEET  LEVEL. 

The  colt's  feet  should  be  handled  from  the  day  of  foaling,  so  that  he 
will  have  no  more  hesitation  in  permitting  his  feet  handled  than  to  have 
the  halter  put  upon  his  head;  and  as  the  horse  without  good  feet  is  but  a 
poor  excuse  at  best,  then  why  should  not  this  m.ost  important  part  of  his 
anatomy  not  have  the  very  closest  attention,  particularly  when  his  feet 
can  be  trimmed  as  quickly  as  a  good  job  of  grooming  can  be  given  his 
body? 

TRIM  THE  COLTS  FEET  OFTEN. 

The  work  of  trimming  should  be  repeated  once  every  two  weeks,  and 
on  no  account  postponed  longer  than  a  month.  A  little  work  upon  the 
feet,  and  often,  will  be  more  readily  submitted  to  by  the  colt  or  horse 
(and  not  so  much  dreaded  by  his  owner)  than  if  let  go  until  the  horse  has 
almost  forgotten  that  he  ever  had  his  feet  trimmed;  and  the  owner  will 
not  be  worn  out  before  the  job  is  completed. 

The  horse  that  has  had  his  feet  properly  cared  for  in  early  life  will  re- 
quire less  shoeing  and  be  more  profitable  to  his  owner. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

SHOEING..  AND  ITS  EFFECTS. 

The  form,  construction  and  physiology  of  the  horse's  foot  certainly  in- 
dicate he  was  designed  by  nature  to  go  bare-foot,  but  if,  owing  to  the 
uses  to  which  we  put  him,  and  the  dry,  hard  roads  over  which  he  is  com- 
pelled to  travel,  the  wall  of  the  foot  wears  away  faster  than  it  grows, 
something  should  be  done  to  protect  that  part  of  his  anatomy;  and  this 
protection  should  be  continued,  both  for  the  comfort  of  the  horse  and 
profit  to  the  owner,  just  so  long  as  he  is  required  to  perform  such 
service,  and  no  longer. 

THE  UNSHOD  HORSE  SURER  FOOTED  THAN  THE  HORSE 
CONTINUALLY   SHOD. 

That  the  unshod  horse,  with  good  feet  and  of  mature  years,  that  has 
never  known  what  it  is  to  wear  iron  upon  his  feet,  is  surer  footed,  sounder 
in  his  action,  and  more  perfectly  gaited  than  the  horse  that  has  had  the 
benefit  of  the  experience  of  the  best  horseshoers,  there  is  no  question. 
Eut  as  circumstances  and  conditions  call  for  our  assistance  in  the  care 
of  the  animal  that  plays  such  an  important  part  in  our  civilization,  we 
must  consider  the  best  means  possible  for  his  protection  and  preserva- 
tion. 

REFERENCE  TO   OUR   LATE  FRIEND,  DR.  WILLIAM   DICK- 
SON. 

Owing  to  the  high  esteem  in  which  we  hold  the  sound  judgment  of 
our  late  lamented  friend  and  co-worker  of  former  years.  Dr.  William 
Dickson,  of  Litchfield,  Minn.,  on  this  important  subject,  we  shall  make 
frequent  reference  to  his  report  on  this  subject,  tew  the  bureau  of  animal 
industry,  as  our  views  were  in  such  perfect  accord.  We  feel  it  a  just 
tribute  he  so  fittingly  merits.     He  says: 

HORSE  SHOEING  AN  INJURY  TO  THE  HORSES'  FEET. 

'"The  system  of  horseshoeing  as  it  obtains,  even  in  the  most  skillful 
hands,  is  pregnant  with  mischief  to  the  foot,  which  no  one  who  is  con- 
versant with  the  facts  will  deny.  Each  time  a  horse  is  shod,  every  time 
a  nail  is  driven,  means  so  much  injury  to  the  foot.  The  better  the  job, 
the  less  the  injury. 

THE  HORNY  WALL,  SOLE  AND  FROG  SHOULD  NOT  BE 
MOLESTED. 

"The  horny  wall,  and  that  portion  of  the  sole  which  is  in  immediate 
contact  with  it,  on  which  the  shoe  should  rest,  are  the  only  portions  of 


122 


HORSE     SENSE. 


the  foot  to  be  interfered  with  in  preparing  it  for  the  shoe,  and  all  the 
trimming  that  is  necessary  can,  and  ought  to,  be  effected  by  means  of 
the  rasp.  The  frog  and  sole  should,  on  no  pretext  whatever,  be  meddled 
with,   save  to  the  extent  indicated. 

THE   KNIFE,    RASP   AND   LARGE   NAILS   ALL   INJURE   THE 
FEET  OF  THE  HORSE. 

"As  the  work  is  too  often  done,  all  over  the  country,  the  foot  is 
pared  to  such  an  extent  that  it  is  robbed  of  its  cushion,  its  natural  ex- 
pander; its  lateral  braces  (bars)  removed;  its  sole  mangled,  and  its  natural 
repair  arrested;  the  hair-like  fibres  which  make  up  the  horny  wall  crushed 
and  deflected,  and  their  nutritive  function  impeded  by  an  unnecessary 
number  of  nails.  Robbed  by  the  rasp  of  its  cortical  layer  of  natural 
varnish,  which  retains  the  moisture  secreted  by  nature,  the  strong  walls 
become  weakened,  and  the  foot  is  in  a  very  sorry  plight  indeed." 


Fig.  1. 


Fig.  3. 


Fig.  2. 

Cut  No.  54. 

ILLUSTRATION   OF   GOOD   AND   BAD   SHOEING. 

Fig.   I,   Cut  No.  54,  shows  the  foot  well  prepared  and  properly  shod. 

Fig.  2,  Cut  No.  54,  represents  the  wall  cut  down  in  front  to  make 
the  foot  fit  the  shoe. 

Fig.  3,  Cut  No.  54,  is  where  the  heels  have  been  cut  down  and  the 
toe  allowed  to  grow  entirely  too  long.     One  about  as  bad  as  the  other. 

RESULTS  OF  GOOD  AND  BAD  SHOEING. 

"Fig.  I,  Cut  No.  51,  shows  the  only  parts  v.hich  should  be  reduced 
■when  a  foot  is  properly  prepared  for  the  shoe.  Sufficient  care  is  not  al- 
ways given  to  shortening  the  hoof,  so  that  its  angle  should  conform  ex- 
actly to  the  inclination  of  the  limb.  It  would  be  misleading  to  lay  down 
any  arbitrary  degree  of  obliquity." 

THE  CHARACTER  OF  THE  WORKMAN  OF  VITAL  IMPORT- 
ANCE. 

Too  much  importance  cannot  possibly  be  attached  by  the  workman 
to  this  and  the  succeeding  step,  namely,  leveling  the  ground  surface  of 
the  foot,  as  the  slightest  departure  from  absolute  exactitude  here  renders 
whatever  amount  of  care  he  may  devote  to  the  completion  of  his  work 
worse  than  useless. 


HORSE     SENSE. 


123 


THE  SHOE  SHOULD  BE  AS  LIGHT  AND  NARROW  AS  POS- 
SIBLE  AT  THE   HEEL. 

"The  shoe  should  be  as  light  as  the  weight  of  the  animal  and  the 
nature  of  the  work  he  is  expected  to  perform  will  admit  of,  as  the  legiti- 
mate mission  of  the  shoe  is  to  prevent  undue  wear  of  the  wails,  and  a 
light  shoe  will  do  this  quite  as  well  as  a  heavy  one. 

"The  upper  surface  of  tiie  shoe  (the  part  that  comes  in  contact  with 
the  foot)  should  be  perfectly  level,  and  slioald  not  be  beveled  in  nor  out." 

THE  SHOE  MUST  BE  MADE  TO  FIT  THE  FOOT  AND  NOT 
THE  FOOT  TO  THE  SHOE. 
"It  would  seem  to  be  unnecessary  to  say  that  the  shoe  should  be  so 
shaped  as  to  conform  to  the  natural  tread  of  the  foot,  yet  a  very  common 
practice  obtains  of  using  a  shoe  of  uniform  shape  (often  less  in  circum- 
ference, if  such  a  term  is  permissible,  than  the  foot  on  which  it  is  to  be 
nailed),  and  then  rasping  down  the  foot  to  fit  it,  thereby  robbing  the 
walls  of  their  natural  covering,  and  permitting  the  escape  of  the  mois- 
ture of  the  foot  by  evaporation.  Disintegration  follows,  and  then  the 
wonder  is  why  the  foot  will  not  retain  a  shoe  as  in  the  beginning!  If 
the  shoe  fitted  as  it  ought  to  do,  the  use  of  the  rasp  would  be  next  to 
unnecessary,  except,  possibly,  a  very  little  under  the  clinches,  and  a 
small  gouge  would  be  better  for  that  purpose." 


Cut  No.  55. 
RIGHT  ANGLE,   BUT   BOTH   RIGHT   AND  WRONG  FITTING. 

Figs.  7  and  8.   Cut  No.  55,  show  correct  and  incorrect  fitting.  Fig.  7 
being  right  and   Fig.  8  wrong.     A  badly   fitting  shoe  is  to  the  horse  as 


124  HORSE     SENSE. 

painful  as  a  tight  fitting  boot  is  to  his  owner,  and  under  no  circum- 
stances should  shoes  be  permitted  to  remain  on  more  than  a  month,  or 
five  weeks  at  the  outside,  and  some  require  to  be  reshod  more  frequently. 

SMALL  SIZED  NAILS  AND  FEWER  OF  THEM  THE  BETTER. 

"The  nails  should  be  of  the  smallest  size  and  of  the  fewest  number  to 
insure  the  retention  of  the  shoe  the  required  length  of  time,  and  this  is  a 
rule  that  should  never  be  departed  from.  If  the  foot  has  been  properly 
leveled,  it  is  surprising  how  few  nails  will  hold  the  shoe  in  place,  and  as 
long  as  is  required;  but  if  the  fitting  has  been  carelessly  done,  it  will  be 
equally  surprising  how  shot  a  time  is  required  to  loosen  the  clinches  and 
the  shoe. 

"Two  of  the  commonest  errors  in  shoeing  are  the  use  of  too  many 
nails,  and  these  of  an  altogether  unnecessary  size,  and  then  driving  them 
too  high  up  into  the  walls." 

LONG  SHOES  AND  WIDE   HEELS   A   DECIDED   DISADVAN- 
TAGE. 

Too  many  blacksmiths  make  what  is  called  the  "over  heeled"  shoes; 
that  is,  shoes  with  straight  heels  or  calks  wide  apart  and  some  distance 
back  of  ihe  heel  of  the  foot  as  well  as  at  the  sides  near  the  heel,  and 
their  reasons  for  so  doing  is  always  in  error. 

NATURE  MAKES  NO   AIISTAKES  IN  RELATION  TO  THE 
FOOT  OF  THE  HORSE. 

Nature  makes  no  mistakes.  If  the  foot  had  needed  the  rear  support 
they  claim  for  it,  the  colt  would  have  been  foaled  with  that  extension  of 
the  foot  at  the  heel.  And  we  want  to  imitate  nature  all  we  possibly 
can  in  relation  to  the  foot  of  the  horse,  especially  at  and  near  the  heel. 
Everybody  seems  to  be  afraid  of  injury  to  the  horse's  foot  if  not  pro- 
tected in  some  way,  and  this  very  so-called  protection  is  doing  more 
harm  than  could  possibly  be  counted  on  if  left  in  its  natural  form.  Who 
ever  saw  corns  or  quarter-cracks  in  connection  with  the  foot  that  had 
never  been  shod? 

THE  CHARLIER  SHOE,   OR  TIP. 

M.  Charlier,  of  Paris,  France,  some  years  ago  invented  the  tip,  or 
short  shoe,  which  bears  his  name,  and  Joseph  Cairn  Simpson  (the  well- 
known  horseman  of  California),  as  well  as  many  others,  have  used 
modifications  of  this  shoe  to  their  entire  satisfaction. 

In  preparing  the  foot  for  the  shoe  and  sole,  the  frog  and  bars  are 
left,  as  they  ought  to  be,  absolutely  untouched,  and  a  groove  is  cut,  by 
means  of  a  knife  specially  designed  for  the  purpose,  in  the  wall,  not  high 
enough  to  reach  above  the  sole  level  and  the  thickness  of  the  wall  in 
depth.  Into  this  groove  a  narrow  band  of  iron  is  sunk,  and  nailed  to 
the  foot  by  means  of  four  to  six  conical-headed  nails,  the  heads  being 
countersunk   in   the   shoe. 


HORSE  .SENSE. 


125 


ADVANTAGES  OF  THE  TIP  OVER  THE  FULL  SHOE. 

The  advantage  of  this  method  of  shoeing  is  that  the  frog,  bars  and 
the  greater  portion  of  the  sole  come  to  the  ground  exactly  as  if  the  foot 
were  unshod,  and  one  and  ail  participating  in  weight-bearing,  as  it  was 
obviously  intended  thej  should,  while  the  wall  is  protected  from  wear  by 
the  small  rim  ol  iron  let  into  its  ground  surface.  When  the  foot  is  shod 
in  this  manner,  tlie  frog  obtains  pressure  to  the  extent  contemplated  by 
nature,  and  maintains  aU  of  its  elastic  action  almost  to  the  same  extent 
as  the  unshod  foot.  Cut  Xo.  56.  Fig.  9  is  a  side  view  of  the  foot  pre- 
pared for  the  tip.  or  short  shoe.  Fig.  10  represents  the  bottom  of  the 
foot  witii  the  tip  attached,  and  Fig.  i  1  s!iows  again  a  side  view  of  the 
appearance  of   the   foot   after   being  shod. 

REPRESENTATIONS  OF  THE  CHARLIER  TIP  OR  SHORT 
SHOE. 


Fool  prepar-ed.  ror  C/uirber  >ajj  y„al  shod  u;/h   rhar/u:r  b/, 

Cut  No.  56. 

NEVER  MOLEST  THE   NATURAL  COATING  OF  THE  HORN 

OF   THE   FOOT. 

'Tn  its  natural  .=tate  the  entire  hoof,  from  the  coronet  to  the  sole  level, 
is   covered   by   a   fine   coating   of   natural   varnish,    thickest   at   the   upper 


126  HORSE     SENSE. 

margin  and  gradually  becoming  thinner  as  it  descends.  In  a  very  dry 
atmosphere,  like  ours,  it  is  of  paramount  importance  that  this  beautiful 
shield  should  be  preserved  and  fostered,  and  no  name  is  bad  enough  for 
a  senseless  custom  which,  to  serve  no  good  purpose,  robs  the  foot  of  a 
necessary  protection  which  is  beyond  the  power  of  art  to  imitate  or 
replace." 

MANNER  OF  SHOEING  IN  WINTER  WHEN  IT  IS  A  NECES- 
SITY. 

Winter  shoeing  in  this  climate  is  almost  a  necessity,  where  heavy 
loads  are  to  be  drawn  over  wet,  slippery  or  icy  roads,  but  it  should  be  re- 
membered that  the  horse  accustomed  to  going  barefoot  will  maintain  his 
footing  better  from  the  use  of  the  elastic  frog  and  bars  of  the  foot  than 
the  horse  not  sharp  shod.  The  shorter,  smaller  and  sharper  the  calks 
of  the  shoe,  suf^cient  for  the  catch,  the  better  and  safer  for  the  horse. 
Long,  heavy  ties  and  calks  on  the  shoe  puts  the  horse  up  on  stilts,  and  as 
they  wear  unever,  more  or  less  trouble  ensues. 

THE  HORN  OF  THE  FOOT  AFFECTED  BY  SHOEING. 
The  horse  that  has  worn  shoes  for  a  good  long  time  is  very  apt  to  go 
lame  without  their  protection.  The  growth  of  horn  has  been  dimin- 
ished and  the  material  supplied  for  that  purpose  of  an  inferior  char- 
acter, and  as  the  horn  becomes  harder  (not  tough)  by  shoeing,  it  is  more 
rapidly  worn  away  on  hard  roads.  The  horn  of  the  natural  unshod  foot 
is  easily  cut  with  knife,  but  does  not  work  with  the  rasp  as  well  as  the 
hard  foot  of  the  horse  that  wears  shoes.  The  former  is  elastic  and  as 
pliable  as  a  piece  of  whalebone,  the  latter  is  brittle  and  about  as  lifeless 
as  the  hoof  of  a  dead  horse,  and  soaking  tubs  nor  poultices  or  oils  will 
bring  back  the  natural  condition.  The  thousands  of  minute  tubes  that 
carry  nourishment  to  the  entire  wall  have  been  cut  off  or  marred  by  the 
knife  and  nails. 

CONTRACTED  FEET  THE  RESULT  OF  BAD  SHOEING. 

As  before  stated,  the  outside  of  the  horn  is  covered  with  an  impervious 
enamel  and  retains  the  moisture  of  the  foot  when  unmolested  by  the 
rasp,  in  trying  to  make  what  is  called  a  finished  job  of  the  shoeing.  No 
wonder  we  behold  such  a  vast  array  of  contracted  feet.  When  we  see 
that  the  natural  unshod  foot  is  strong  and  elastic,  with  a  well  developed 
and  elastic  frog  of  wedged-shaped  form,  which  prevents  contraction, 
while  a  sole  that  sheds  off  its  old  growth  as  fast  as  the  new  is  formed, 
then  why  in  the  name  of  common  sense  should  we  deliberately  go  to 
work  and  rob  the  outside  protection  that  nature  has  so  wisely  provided? 

Nature's  "buffer" — cushion  for  the  foot — to  ward  off  a  part  of  the  jar 
to  the  column  of  bones  above,  as  well  as  to  the  foot  itself,  should  always 
come  in  contact  with  the  ground,  whether  the  horse  is  shod  or  not,  and 
on  no  account  should  the  smith  be  permitted  to  trim  and  carve  at  this 
important  elastic  body,  the  frog.  It  is  impossible  in  a  work  of  this  size 
and  character  to  take  up  the  different  phases  and  styles  of  the  shoeing 
question,  much  of  which  is  yet  in  its  experimental  stages. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

FEEDING  HORSES. 

The  amount  of  food  given  should  be  regulated  by  the  size  and  breed 
of  ihe  animal,  and  by  the  amount  and  kind  of  work  he  is  required  to  do. 
The  horse  has  a  small  stomach  in  proportion  to  his  size;  hence,  frequent 
feeding  when  under  hard  work  is  necessary. 

THE   HORSE  SUFFERS  MORE  FROM   HUNGER  THAN  MAN. 

The  human  stomach  can  bear  hunger  far  better  than  that  of  the 
horse.  If  when  driving  on  a  journey  you  feel  hungry,  you  may  be  sure 
your  horse  has  felt  it  before  you  did,  and  is  needing  his  feed  more  than 
you. 

Oats  and  hay  are  the  ideal  horse  foods  of  our  country,  but  because 
they  are  the  best  is  no  reason  why  they  should  be  exclusively  used. 

VARIETY   OF   FEEDS   IS  AS   MUCH   RELISHED    BY   THE 
HORSE  AS  BY  MAN. 

Variety  is  often  much  relished  by  the  horse,  and,  with  this  variety, 
cheapness  and  economy  may  be  introduced.  Good  timothy  hay,  early  cut 
and  well  cured,  is  the  best  hay  for  horses.  Timothy  hay  is  heavier  than 
that  of  other  grasses,  and  contains  a  larger  quantity  of  nutritive  matter 
in  a  small  bulk.  If  left  till  it  be  over-ripe,  it  becomes  hard  and  woody. 
It  is  more  digestible  when  cut  rather  on  the  green  side,  and  makes  better 
horse  feed. 

FARMERS,  AS  A  RULE,  FEED  TOO  MUCH  HAY. 

Many  farmers  feed  far  too  nnicli  hay  to  their  horses.  They  might 
very  well  take  a  few  lessons  in  this  matter  from  the  livery  men,  who 
find  that  their  horses  do  better  and  keep  healthier  on  a  small  allowance 
of  hay. 

AMOUNT   OF   HAY   FED   TO  RACE  HORSES. 

Rase  horses  and  others,  in  large  stables,  are  fed  on  six  to  eight 
pounds  of  hay  and  from  fifteen  to  twenty  pounds  of  the  best  oats  per 
day,  and,  if  needed,  a  bran  mash  once  a  week, — one-third  of  the  hay  after 
exercise  in  the  morning,  the  balance  at  night,  and  the  oats  fed  at  four 
feeds.  For  the  work  horse,  more  hay  is  given,  up  to  ten  pounds  per  day 
(six  pounds  loose  and  four  pounds  cut),  and  mixed  with  his  oats, 
sixteen  to  eighteen  pounds.  Any  farmer  can  see  how  much  this  differs 
from  his  feeding,  and  yet  these  horses  are  required  to  do  hard  work  and 
'-nake  sudden  exertions,  taxing  all  their  powers. 


128  HORSE    SENSE. 

HORSES  KEPT  CONTINUOUSLY  IN  THE  STABLE  MUST  BE 
FED  WITH  CARE. 

When  horses  are  in  the  stable  much  of  the  time,  the  feeding  needs 
to  be  carefully  managed.  Sv/ede  turnips  (rutabagas)  are  relished  by 
horses,  and  seem  better  food  for  them  than  the  carrot.  They  do  well  on 
roots  when  idle  or  at  moderate  woiiv. 

HORSES  DO  NOT  NEED  THEIR  FOOD  COOKED. 

Cooking  food  for  horses  has  not  been  found  generally  profitable. 
Careful  experiments  made  years  ago  showed  that  horses  do  better  on 
raw  food.  Crushed  or  ground  oats  are  much  used.  Some  horses  have 
a  tendency  to  bolt  their  feed  half  chewed,  and  some  of  the  grain  is 
voided  whole  in  these  cases.     Grinding  helps  any  such  tendency. 

RATIONS   FOR   HORSES   IN   LONDON. 

In  England  some  of  the  large  companies,  which  work  a  great  many 
horses,  give  mixed  food,  and  use  considerable  quantities  of  American 
corn.  The  North  Metropolitan  Company  (London)  allows  for  each 
horse  per  day  about  the  following  rations:  Corn,  nine  pounds;  oats, 
seven  pounds;  peas,  one  pound;  beans,  one  pound;  hay,  seven  pounds; 
cut  straw,  three  pounds;  total,  twenty-eight  pounds.  The  South  London 
Tramway  Company  gives  corn,  seven  pounds;  oats,  seven  pounds;  beans, 
one  pound;  hay,  eleven  pounds;  straw,  three  pounds;  total,  twenty-nine 
pounds. 

FEEDING    BRITISH    CAVALRY    HORSES. 

That  which  needs  special  attention  by  our  feeders  is  the  quantity  of 
hay  fed  and  the  desirability  of  usitig  a  small  quantity  of  straw  in  the 
ration.  British  cavalry  horses  are  allowed  ten  pounds  of  oats  and  twelve 
pounds  of  hay  as  an  ordinary  feed.  If  out  on  active  service,  the  oats  are 
increased  to  fifteen  pounds.  In  private  stables  and  on  the  farm  it  is 
better  to  give  greater  variety  to  the  food,  and  the  wise  feeder  will  be 
guided  by  the  season  and  the  price  of  foods,  in  keeping  his  animals  in 
the  best  of  health  at  the  least  expense., 

LONDON  TRAM  AND  BUS  COMPANY  FEED  THEIR  HORSES 
SEVEN   TIMES  A  DAY. 

The  London  County  Council  Tram  and  Bus  management  employs 
about  4,000  .  carefully-selected,  stout,  thick,  muscular  horses,  weighing 
1,150  to  1,250  pounds.  These  horses  are  fed  as  follows:  Thirteen  pounds 
of  roughage  per  day,  consisting  of  eleven  and  a  half  pounds  of  hay.  and 
one  and  a  half  pounds  of  straw,  fourteen  pounds  of  concentrates  or  grain, 
consisting  of  eight  pounds  of  corn,  four  pounds  of  oats  and  two  pounds 
of  peas,  all  ground  and  mixed  together.  All  hay  and  straw  is  cut,  and 
all  grain  is  fed  mixed  with  cut  hay  or  straw  and  moistened.  The  horses 
are  fed  seven  times  each  day,  extending  from  5  a.  m.  to  8  p.  m.  Water 
is  given  always  before  every  feed,  and  every  time  they  come  in  from 
work.  Rock  salt  is  accessible  at  all  times.  The  horses  stand  either  on 
stone  or  vitrified  brick  floors,  and  are  never  permitted  to  lie  down  except 


HORSE     SENSE.  129 

during  the  night,  when  the  stalls  are  well  bedded.  During  the  day  the 
bedding  is  all  put  forward  under  the  manger.  The  average  period  of 
service  at  very  exacting  labor  is  about  seven  years.  The  stables  contain 
from  ICO  to  200  horses  each,  located  in  various  parts  of  the  city,  to  be 
convenient  to  the  numerous  sections  of  the  bus  and  tram  lines.  The 
manager  travels  over  10,000  miles  a  year  in  making  his  daily  rounds. 

MORTALITY  FROM   ALL  CAUSES  ONE-HALF  OF  ONE  PER 
CENT. 

The  average  percentage  of  loss  from  all  causes  with  this  company  is 
one-half  of  one  per  cent  annually,  which  is  as  low  as  could  be  expected 
under  any  regime. 

FEEDS  AND    FEEDING. 

Proper  feeds — balanced  rations — in  relation  to  work  or  exercise  is  of 
the  utmost  importance  in  the  care,  development  and  health  of  our  horses. 

MUSCLE  MAKING  FOOD  AND  EXERCISE  FOR  THE  COLTS. 

The  young  growing  animals  need  plenty  of  muscle  and  bone-making 
food,  such  as  oats,  bran,  oil  meal,  beans,  peas,  clover,  hay,  etc.,  but  they 
must  have  exercise  in  proportion  to  the  food  consumed.  And  it  is  im- 
possible to  grow  a  good  strong,  useful  horse  without  plenty  of  exercise. 
The  feed  and  exercise  must  always  be  considered  together  and  the  young 
growing  animal  should  have  plenty  of  both. 

AFTER   MATURITY,   THE   HORSE   IS    FED    FOR   HIS   WORK 
AND  MAINTENANCE. 

After  the  horse  is  matured,  then  he  is  to  be  fed  in  proportion  to  the 
work  to  be  performed,  over  and  above  that  of  maintenance.  Like  our- 
selves who  eat  our  breakfast,  dinner  and  supper  and  weigh  the  same,  he 
is  to  be  considered  in  the  same  light.  If  he  is  idle,  we  should  feed  him 
just  enough  to  supply  the  waste  material  of  the  body,  and  no  more,  un- 
less we  wish  to  increase  his  weight,  and  this  must  be  done  carefully,  or 
derangements  of  the  digestion  are  likely  to  occur. 

IDLENESS  AND  FAT,  GREAT  ENEMIES  TO  HORSES. 

We  here  wish  to  caution  every  horseman  who  is  working  his  horses 
hard  and  then  suddenly  gives  them  a  period  of  idleness,  that  the  grain 
ration  should  be  cut  down  at  least  one  half,  and  oftimes  more  would  be 
better  for  the  welfare  of  the  animal.  Probably  more  ailments  of  the 
horse  are  traceable  to  this,  and  the  irregular  hours  of  feeding  than  all 
else  combined.  Azaturia,  and  a  host  of  other  troubles  are  almost  directly 
traceable  to  this  one  cause  of  high  feeding  and  idleness— a  waste  of  the 
food  material,  and  too  often  the  horse.  It  is  a  standing  saying  with  the 
Arabs  that  "Rest  and  fat  are  the  greatest  enemies  of  the  horse." 

DIFFERENT  HORSES  NEED   DIFFERENT  FEEDS   AND 
AMOUNTS. 

Of  course,  there  is  a  difference  in  horses;  some  will  require  more  feed 
than  others,  and  some  will  consume  much  more  than  they  can  digest  and 


130  HORSE     SENSE. 

assimilate.     Here  is  where  the   "art"  of  feeding  comes  in.     How  often 
we  have  seen  it  exemplified. 

ONE  MAN  WILL  WORK  FLESH  OFF  AND  ANOTHER  WILL 
WORK  IT  ON  HORSES. 

One  man  will  take  a  team  thin  in  flesh,  work  it  hard  and  have  the 
horses  gain  in  flesh  on  much  less  feed  than  they  had  before.  This  shows 
that  it  is  not  so  much  the  amount  of  feed  given,  as  it  is  the  properly 
balanced  ration  and  the  regularity  with  which  they  were  fed,  together 
with  the  manner  of  handling.  Another  will  take  the  team  in  the  height 
of  condition  of  flesh  and  fit  for  their  work,  and  in  a  short  time  the 
horses  are  seen  to  be  dull  and  losing  flesh,  notwithstanding  they  had 
all  the  grain  and  hay  they  could  consume. 

RATION  FOR  THE  WEANLING  COLT,  THE  YEARLING,  TWO 
AND  THREE  YEARS  OLD. 

Below  we  give  a  number  of  "Rations"  in  relation  to  the  character  of 
animal  and  work  required,  per  day,  for  trotting  bred  stock: 

Weanling  Colt. — Two  to  three  pounds  cf  oats.     Hay  all  it  will  eat. 

Yearling  Colt. — Four  to  five  pounds  of  oats.     Hay  all  it  will  eat. 

Two-yearColt. — Six  to  seven  pounds  of  oats.     Hay  all  it  will  eat. 

Three-year  Colt  in  Training. — Nine  to  twelve  pounds  of  oats.  Hay 
somewhat  limited. 

Horse  in  Races. — Ten  to  fourteen  pounds  of  oats.  Hay  somewhat 
limited. 

Road  Horse. — Eight  to  ten  pounds  of  oats.  Hay,  ten  to  twelve 
pounds. 

Carriage  Horse. — Ten  to  twelve  pounds  of  oats.  Hay,  twelve  to 
fourteen  pounds. 

Farm  Horse  at  Heavy  Work. — Twelve  to  fourteen  pounds  of  oats, 
three  pounds  of  corn.     Hay,  thirteen  to  fifteen  pounds. 

Draft  Horse  at  Heavy  Work. — Fourteen  to  sixteen  pounds  of  oats, 
five  pounds  of  corn.     Hay,  sixteen  to  eighteen  pounds. 

VALUE  OF  BRAN  AND  BRAN-MASHES  FOR  HORSES. 

The  addition  to  the  above,  of  one  to  five  pounds  of  bran  per  day- 
considering  the  animal,  the  condition  of  the  bowels  and  the  character 
of  the  hay,  will  often  prove  very  advantageous.  An  occasional  bran- 
mash  for  any  indications  of  a  feverish  condition  must  not  be  neglected. 

The  question  of  feeding  is  largely  a  matter  of  regularity  and  close  ob- 
servation of  conditions  and  food  stufT. 

Cooked  food  is  not  to  be  thought  of,  except  m  case  of  sickness  or 
the  old  and  comparatively  toothless  animals.  The  horse  has  both  a  good 
mill,  and  digestive  apparatus  when  properly  fed  and  handled. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

FATTENING  HORSES  FOR  MARKET. 

It  has  become  quite  common  to  stall-feed  horses  for  the  market,  very 
much  as  cattle  are  prepared,  and  it  is  said  "fat  covers  up  a  multitude  of 
■defects,"  to  the  buyer. 

Mr.  H.  W.  Brattell,  of  Iowa,  has  given  the  subject  of  fattening  horses 
<lose  attention,  and  furnishes  the  results  of  his  observations  as  follows:. 

HORSES  FED  GRAIN  FIVE  TIMES  PER  DAY. 

"They  are  put  in  the  barn  and  fed  gradually,  as  great  care  must  be 
taken  for  a  few  days  to  avoid  colic.  It  seems  most  profitable  to  feed 
grain  about  five  times  per  day,  due  to  the  fact  that,  the  stomach  of  a 
horse  being  proportionately  smaller  than  the  stomach  of  a  cow,  he  needs 
his  feed  in  smaller  quantities,  or  as  the  old  quotation  is,  'Little  and  often.' 
The  hay,  of  course,  they  have  access  to  at  any  time,  by  filling  the  racks 
twice  a  day.  They  also  are  given  all  the  water  they  will  drink,  twice  a 
day. 

CORN  A  GREAT  FACTOR  IN  FATTENING  HORSES. 

"Corn  is  given  at  5  a.  m.,  then  water  at  7;  at  9  fill  all  the  hayracks 
and  give  oats  and  bran,  the  proportion  being  two-thirds  bran  and  one- 
third  oats.  Then  at  12  feed  corn  again;  at  3  p.  m.  feed  oats  and  bran, 
and  also  refill  the  hayracks.  At  4  p.  m.  give  second  watering,  and  at  6 
the  last  feed  of  corn  is  given.  The  proportion  for  each  horse  when  upon 
full  feed  is  as  follows:  Corn,  from  ten  to  fourteen  ears  at  each  feed,  oats 
and  bran,  about  three  quarts  per  feed. 

GLAUBER  SALTS  SUBSTITUTED  FOR  EXERCISE. 

Another  point  of  great  importance  comes  into  consideration  where 
a  large  unmber  of  horses  are  fed:  It  is  almost  impossible  to  give  them 
all  sufficient  exercise,  and  so,  as  a  rule,  they  are  given  no  exercise  f'-om 
the  time  they  are  put  in  the  barn  until  a  few  days  before  they  are  to  be 
shipped.  So  something  must  be  given  as  a  substitute  for  the  exercise 
in  order  to  keep  the  blood  in  good  order,  or  else  "stocked"  legs  will  be 
one  of  the  first  troubles.  Glauber  salts  will  in  most  cases  prevent  this 
trouble,  and,  mixed  with  the  oats  and  bran,  the  horses  will  eat  them 
quite  readily.  These  salts  are  fed  about  twice  per  week  at  equal  inter- 
vals, giving  about  one-half  or  three-fourths  of  a  pint  at  each  feed.  These 
salts  can  be  bought  very  cheap  by  having  your  druggist  order  them  for 
you  at  wholesale  prices.  They  are  not  nearly  so  strong  as  the  epsom 
salts,  but  they  have  a  very  desirable  and  cooling  effect  upon  the  blood. 


132  HORSE     SENSE. 

OIL-MEAL  IS  FED  TO  SOFTEN  THE  SKIN. 

"Oil-meal  may  also  be  given  to  good  advantage,  as  it  aids  greatly 
in  putting  on  flesh,  and  also  gives  the  skin  a  soft  and  mellow  touch.  All 
mangers  and  feed  boxes  should  be  cleaned  out  twice  a  day,  and  the  cobs 
and  other  refuse  thrown  out  behind  the  horses  and  taken  out  with  the 
manure.  By  all  means  give  the  horses  sufficient  time  for  their  stomachs 
to  rest,  and  this  can  be  done  by  giving  the  first  feed  at  5  in  the  morning 
and  the  last  between  6  and  7  at  night. 

FLOATING  THE  TEETH.  THAT  HORSES  MAY  GRIND  THEIR 
FEED  WELL. 

Another  point  that  ought  to  be  mentioned  is  floating  the  teeth, 
when  the  horses  are  put  in,  and  before  commencing  to  feed  them.  It 
is  best  to  get  a  veterinarian  to  do  this,  as  he  has  the  proper  instruments, 
and  where  there  are  so  many  to  do,  it  can  be  done  more  rapidly.  Float- 
ing the  teeth  is  a  point  which  a  great  many  people  overlook,  and  is  in 
many  instances  the  real  cause  of  a  horse  being  out  of  condition.  When 
a  horse  has  a  number  of  sharp  projections  on  his  teeth,  the  gums  become 
raw  and  sore,  so  that  he  does  not  masticate  his  feed  thoroughly,  and  con- 
sequently indigestion  often  results,  and  the  horse  runs  down  in  condi- 
tion. In  a  load  of  horses  shipped  from  Kansas  it  was  found  upon  exam- 
ination that  a  large  number  of  them  had  sharp  projections  on  the  outer 
edge  of  the  grinders,  and  their  mouths  were  in  such  a  condition  that  a 
person  would  wonder  how  they  could  eat  at  all;  but  after  they  were 
floated  down  quite  a  marked  change  was  soon  noticed.  I  think  it  will 
pay  better  to  put  the  horses'  teeth  in  shape,  and  let  them  do  their  own 
grinding,  than  it  will  to  grind  the  grain  for  them. 

GAINED  AS  HIGH  AS  FIVE  AND  A  HALF  POUNDS  WEIGHT 
PER  DAY. 

"When  horses  are  fed  in  this  manner,  good  gains  are  generally  real- 
ized. In  one  instance  a  horse  fed  in  this  manner  made  a  gain  of  five 
and  one-half  pounds  per  day  for  a  period  of  fifty  days,  or  in  100  days  he 
gained  550  pounds.  And  in  several  instances,  with  as  many  as  a  dozen 
head,  a  gain  of  three  and  one-third  pounds  per  day  for  a  period  of  ninety- 
days  was  obtained. 

IS  THIS  STUFFING  PROCESS  GENERALLY  OF  ADVANTAGE? 

This  stuffing  without  exercise  may  enable  the  feeder  to  get  the  horse 
in  condition  to  go  onto  the  market  for  sale  at  a  good  profit  for  his 
feed  and  trouble,  but  how  will  it  be  with  the  buyer  who'  wants  to  put  the 
horse  (so  prepared)  at  hard  work? 

FEEDING  WORK  HORSES. 

This  is  a  subject  in  which  every  horseman  is,  or  should  be,  particu- 
larly interested;  but  it  is  a  subject  about  which  there  is  a  great  diver- 
sity of  opinion  and  theory,  much  of  which  is  unworthy  of  considera- 
tion.    That  there  is  a  right  way  of  feeding  is  demonstrated  both   in  this 


BORSB    SENSE.  133 

country  and  in  Europe,  where  large  numbers  of  horses  are  kept  for 
hard  work,  fed  regularly  by  close  observers,  whose  business  it  is  to  do 
the  best  for  the  horses,  their  work  and  their  owners. 

WATER  THE  WORK   HORSES   BEFORE   FEEDING. 

When  it  is  understood  that  the  stomach  of  the  horse  can  contain 
only  from  three  to  three  and  one-half  gallons,  then  it  becomes  apparent 
that  we  must  study  the  best  methods  of  keeping  him  in  health  and 
strength  for  the  labor  required  of  him,  largely  in  the  manner  in  which 
we  water  and  feed  him.  It  is  always  best  to  water  some  time  before 
feeding. 

TOO  MANY  HORSES  ARE  OVER-FED. 

A  great  proportion  of  our  horses  are  over-fed,  many  under-fed,  and 
but  few  out  of  the  whole  that  are  fed  to  the  advantage  of  the  horse  and 
owner.  Horses  are  frequently  fed  as  much  as  thirty  or  forty  pounds 
of  hay  in  twenty-four  hours,  when  twelve  to  twenty  pounds  is  enough 
for  the  majority  of  horses  that  are  working  hard;  and  as  much  as  a 
bushel,  and  sometimes  more,  of  grain  is  given  daily  to  each  horse,  when 
one-half  of  the  amount  would  be  ample. 

THE  FEEDING  SHOULD  ACCORD  WITH  CONDITIONS. 

One  of  the  greatest  and  most  frequent  mistakes  is  in  over-feeding 
our  horses,  especially  when  idle  or  exhausted  from  hard  work.  It  re- 
quires vital  energy  to  digest  a  heavy  feed,  as  well  as  to  perform  hard 
work,  and  when  the  horse  is  very  tired  it  is  bad  practice  to  give  him 
a  large  feed  until  he  is  rested. 

WORKING  HORSES  SHOULD  BE  FED  LESS  WHEN  IDLE. 

It  is  also  a  great  mistake  to  feed  our  horses  the  same  amount  of 
grain  when  idle  for  a  few  days  (especially  if  in  good  flesh),  after  regular 
work  or  exercise,  as  this  is  the  very  cause  of  that  dread  disease  called 
azaturia,  which  almost  always  attacks  the  best  conditioned  horse,  and 
if  it  does  not  kill  him,  it  will  deprive  his  owner  of  his  use  for  a  con- 
siderable time. 

NINTY  PER  CENT  OF  ACUTE   SICKNESS  THE   RESULT  OF 
OVER-FEEDING. 

It  is  of  the  utmost  importance  that  we  study  carefully  the  best 
methods  of  feeding  our  horses  when  at  hard  work,  when  idle,  and 
during  the  winter  when  they  are  but  little  used;  thereby  saving  the 
frequent  calls  of  the  veterinarian,  drug  bills  and  condition  powders.  It 
is  the  almost  universal  statement  of  veterinarians,  that  ninety  per  cent 
of  the  acute  cases  that  they  are  called  to  treat  is  caused  from  over-feed- 
ing. 

VALUE  OF  A  BRAN  MASH. 

If  the  horses  cannot  have  green  grass  once  or  twice  a  week  (na- 
ture's great  regulator),  they  should  have  a  bran  mash  instead.  But  a  s 
hired  help   will  often  leave  enough  mash  in  the  tub  or  manger  to   fer- 


134  HORSE     SENSE. 

ment,  we  have  found  that  dry  bran,  mixed  with  the  oats  and  corn, 
gives  excellent  resuUs  and  protects  against  dangers  that  come  from  feed- 
ing stale  or  musty  mash. 

AN  EXPERIMENT  WITH  OMNIBUS  HORSES. 

Some  years  ago  an  experiment  was  made  by  the  London  Omnibus 
Comapny  on  6,000  horses,  to  test  the  relative  value  between  cut  hay 
and  ground  grain  and  whole  grain  and  hay.  They  first  divided  the 
horses,  and  3,000  were  fed  the  ground  grain  and  cut  hay,  and  the  other 
3,000  were  fed  the  whole  grain  and  hay,  giving  the  latter  nineteen  pounds 
of  oats  and  thirteen  pounds  of  hay  daily,  and  the  others  were  fed  six- 
teen pounds  ground  oats,  seven  and  one-half  pounds  cut  hay,  and  two 
and  one-half  pounds  cut  straw.  The  first  lot  of  horses  got  thirty-two 
pounds,  each,  daily,  and  the  latter  only  twenty-six  pounds  all  told,  and 
yet  they  kept  up  well  in  ffesh  and  stood  their  work  equally  well  with  the 
former. 

SAVINGS  IN  ECONOMIC  FEEDING. 

The  above  system  would  make  a  saving  of  six  pounds  on  each 
horse  daily,  and  counting  this  worth  in  that  market  five  cents,  there 
would  be  a  saving  of  $300  per  day  on  the  6,000  horses. 

AN  EXPERIMENT  WITH  MILL  HORSES. 
Another  experiment  was  made  with  heavy  mill  horses,  by  wetting 
the  cut  hay  and  thoroughly  soaking  it   for  twelve  hours  before  feeding, 
mixing  the  ground  feed  with  the  wet  cut  hay  just  before  feeding. 

JUST  THE  RIGHT  QUANTITY  AND  QUALITY  OF  FEED 
SHOULD  BE  STUDIED. 
In  the  above,  the  ration  for  each  horse,  to  start  with,  was  four 
pounds  dry  cut  hay,  five  pounds  ground  oats  and  barley,  and  a  half 
pound  of  brain,  night  and  morning,  and  four  pounds  dry  whole  oats 
at  noon,  without  hay.  This  proved  hardly  sufficient  for  the  large  horses 
and  their  heavy  work,  and  it  was  afterwards  incerased  to  five  pounds 
hay,  five  pounds  ground  grain  and  a  half  pound  of  brain,  night  and 
morning,  and  eight  pounds  oats,  without  hay,  at  noon,  to  the  perfect  sat- 
isfaction of  the  owners  of  the  horses  and  ample  feed  for  the  largest 
horses  doing  the  heaviest  work. 

HORSES  CAN  BE  WELL  OR  MADE  SICK  BY  FEEDS  AND 
FEEDING. 
The  above  experiment  proved  to  be  a  saving  of  ten  pounds  of  hay 
and  six  pounds  of  grain  daily  to  each  horse,  over  the  old  whole  grain 
and  hay  method,  besides  under  the  old  system  many  horses  were  sick 
with  colic  and  inflammation  of  the  stomach  and  bowels,  and  for  years 
a  sick  horse  has  not  been  seen,  since  the  new  system  has  been 
adopted.  We  would  say,  however,  that  no  fixed  and  definite  rules  can 
be  laid  down  for  feeding  all  horses,  but  by  careful  attention  to  the  man- 
ner in  which  they  eat  and  the  condition  of  the  bowels,  every  farmer 
may  become  quite  a  master  of  the  art  of  feeding. 


HORSE     SENSE. 
METHOD  OF  FEEDING  THE  LITTLE  COLTS. 


135 


When  the  pasture  gets  short  during  the  dry  weather  of  summer, 
both  mares  and  colts  shrink  in  flesh  unless  something  is  done  for  them. 
It  is  a  good  time  to  get  the  little  colts  to  eating  grain,  and  we  here 
show  a  practical  method  in  the  picture  of  accomplishing  the  desired 
object  with  little  or  no  trouble. 

FEED  THE  LITTLE  COLTS  GRAIN  IN  A  SMALL  YARD   BY 
THEMSELVES. 

Fence  in  a  small  yard  or  pen  with  one  rail  or  plank  on  each  side, 
high  enough  for  the  colts  to  run  under,  and  still  high  enough  so  the 
mares  will  not  get  over.  Put  a  box  or  trough  in  the  center  of  this  yard 
and  place  some  grain  in  it,  and  the  colts  will  soon  get  there,  and  learn 
to  eat,  by  having  access  to  this  place  every  time  the  stock  comes  to  the 
lot.  In  this  manner  the  little  colts  are  kept  growing,  and  when  weaning 
time  comes  they  are  accustomed  to  grain  feeding,  and  will  keep  on 
growing  with  scarcely  any  falling  ofif.     See  Cut  No.  57. 


Cut  No.  57. 
FEEDING  YARD  FOR  COLTS. 


136  HORSE     SENSE. 

FEEDING   COLTS. 
There  is  no  more  important   subject  in  relation  to  the  future  use- 
fulness of  the  horse  than  his  growth,  which  is  largely  dependent  on  the 
feed  he  gets  after  weaning  time. 

GROW  THE  FRAME-WORK  OF  THE  COLTS  FIRST. 

Bone  and  muscle-making  food  is  the  most  essential  element  re- 
quired, and  one  or  two  quarts  of  sweet  skim-milk,  together  with  the 
.-^rain  ration  of  ground  oats,  barley,  or  corn  and  bran,  will  keep  the  colt 
growing  continuously,  and  thereby  avoid  that  shrinkage  that  usually 
follows  the  weaning  period.  Three  or  four  pounds  of  good,  sweet  hay» 
two  or  three  pounds  of  oats  and  one  of  barley  or  corn  ground,  and  a 
half  pound  of  bran,  with  the  four  quarts  (not  more)  of  skim  milk  daily^ 
varied  to  suit  the  size  and  make-up  of  the  colt,  will  keep  him  growing 
finely,  and  be  very  much  better  than  if  twice  the  amount  had  been 
given.  Don't  think  because  skim  milk  is  cheap  and  the  colt  likes  it,, 
that  the  more  it  will  drink  the  better.  The  stomach  must  not  be  dis- 
tended beyond  activity.     Enough  is  enough,  and  too  much  is  a  damage. 

DONT  TRY  TO  GROW  COLTS  ON  HAY  AND  WATER  ALONE. 

Large  quantities  of  ordinary  hay  or  straw  and  water  is  what  pro- 
duces the  ordinary  stunted,  pot-bellied  orphan  colt  so  often  pointed  out 
as  the  scrub,  when  he  may  be  well  bred,  and  if  properly  attended  to, 
could  have  been  made  as  good  as  many  of  the  others.  Regularity  in 
feeding  is  of  far  more  importance  in  the  growth  of  the  colt  than  in- 
creased quantity  of  feed. 

DONT  GIVE  THE  WEANLING  COLTS  LARGE  AMOUNTS  OF 
WATER  AT  A  TIME. 

One  very  common  error  is  giving  the  weanlings  far  too  much  water 
at  one  time,  which  deranges  their  digestion,  depraves  their  appetites, 
and  develops  their  bodies  like  "poisoned  pups." 

EXERCISE   THE   COLTS. 

Exercise  for  the  growing  colts  is  of  equal  importance  to  their  feed, 
and  should  be  as  regular  as  the  weather  will  permit.  If  the  weather  is 
very  severe,  the  colts  must  not  be  exposed  long  enough  to  become 
thoroughly  chilled,  but  it  is  a  very  pernicious  habit  to  keep  the  colts  in 
the  stable  for  days  at  a  time  and  feed  them  heavily,  as  it  will  tell  a  sad 
tale  on  their  legs,  that  may  require  months  to  recover  from. 

WEANING   THE  LITTLE   COLTS. 

If  you  take  the  colts  away  out  of  sight  of  the  dams  in  weaning,  it 
should  be  done  in  the  morning,  if  there  are  several  of  them  and  it  can 
be  done,  two  colts  should  be  put  together  in  box  stalls.  One  will  be 
lonesome,  two  will  be  company  and  three  is  a  crowd  and  trouble  will 
ensue. 


HORSE     SENSE.  137 

LEAVE  THE   COLTS   TWELVE    HOURS    BEFORE   OFFERING 
FEED   OR   DRL\K. 

In  the  evening  after  the  colts  have  been  weaned  in  the  morning 
take  some  warm  skim  milk  sweetened,  and  with  a  little  in  a  shallow  pan, 
hold  under  the  colt's  nose  and  with  a  sudden  movement  of  the  pan  up- 
wards, dip  its  nose  into  the  milk  and  take  the  pan  away.  Repeat  this 
several  times,  until  the  colt  gets  a  taste  of  the  milk  and  then  it  will 
drink  readily,  as  it  is  thirsty.  Offer  no  water  and  if  it  will  not  take  the 
milk  in  the  evening,  wait  until  the  next  morning  and  there  will  be  no 
trouble,  if  it  is  done  as  before  directed. 

SKIM  MILK  FURTHER  CONSIDERED. 

In  closing  this  subject  of  feeding  the  colts,  it  is  important  to  add, 
that  the  real  value  in  cow's  skim  milk,  for  the  little  colts  at  weaning 
time  (afterwards,  too)  can  scarcely  be  estimated.  Cow's  skim  milk 
(not  whole  milk),  comes  nearer  the  natural  food  of  the  dam  than  any 
other  we  can  furnish,  and  if  given  in  moderate  quantities  daily,  the 
weanling  colts  will  never  shrink  in  their  growth,  and  you  will  be  sur- 
prised to  see  how  well  they  will  grow  and  prefer  the  milk  to  any  other 
food.  Milk  is  87  per  cent  water,  and  if  we  depend  too  much  on  the 
milk  the  colt  will  have  to  take  so  much  of  it  that  it  will  do  no  good. 
While  the  milk  is  splended  feed,  we  must  depend  on  grain  for  the  more 
concentrated  nutriment.     They  properly  go  together. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

DEVICES,   MEANS  AND   METHODS    FOR   CONTROLLING 
OUR  HORSES. 

For  the   want   of    a   proper   education    when    young,   together   with 
the  careless  handling  and  abuse  of  our  horses,  they  contract  habits  that 
are    both    dangerous    to   themselves,    their    companions    and   those    who' 
handle  them. 
STUDY  TO  AVOID  INCONVENIENCE  AND  PUNISHMENT. 

It  should  be  our  purpose  all  through  life  to  carefulljr  study  horses* 
habits  and  the  laws  of  their  control,  with  the  least  possible  inconveni- 
ence and  punishment,  and  we  will  be  thoroughly  convinced  that  the 
simplest  and  most  effective  means  of  control,  is  through  devices  that 
harmonize  with  the  laws  of  their  organization. 

WE  SHOULD  NEVER  BATTLE  WITH  OUR  HORSES. 
The  horses'  strength  being  superior  to  that  of  man,  precludes,  at 
once,  the  idea  that  we  should  ever  go  to  battle  with  him  on  anything 
like  equal  grounds;  in  fact,  we  would  discourage  the  idea  of  ever  get- 
ting into  the  fight  with  our  horses,  for  this  reason;  since  they  are  en- 
dowed with  the  same  passions  as  ourselves,  such  as  resentment,  courage, 
revenge,  etc.,  etc.,  we  must  banish  the  idea  that  our  horses  are  "mere 
brutes"  to  be  yanked,  kicked  and  pounded  at  will,  without  the  remem- 
brance of  the  event  being  stored  up  by  them,  for  some  opportunity  when 
they  will  have  the  best  of  us. 

HORSES   ENDOWED   W^ITH    INTELLIGENCE,    SENTIMENT 
AND   PASSION. 

Horses  are  not  only  endowed  with  passions,  but  intellect  as  well, 
and  just  in  proportion  to  this  latter  endowment,  and  their  educational 
advantages,  is  the  true  value  of  the  horse. 

WE  ESTIMATE  BOTH  MEN  AND   HORSES.  BY  THEIR  ABIL- 
ITY AND  EDUCATION. 

We  estimate  men  by  their  natural  ability  and  education,  then  why 
not  apply  the  same  rule  to  our  horses?  We  have  good  and  bad  citizens, 
and  for  the  bad,  we  have  made  laws  and  prisons  for  their  control,  and 
if  we  would  correct  the  bad  habits  of  our  horses,  we  must  use  the  means 
with  which  to  overcome  their  muscular  power  without  injury,  or  arous- 
ing their  passion  toward  us,  as  is  naturally  engendered  by  whipping, 
"yanking"    and    kicking.      Let    us    so    confine    them    that   they   have    to 


HORSE     SENSE.  139 

operate  against  themselves  rather  than  us,  and,  the  results  will  be  much 
more  satisfactory  than  the  usual  methods  of  either  indulgence  or  pun- 
ishment. 

THE  USEFULNESS  OF  OUR  HORSES  DEPENDS   ON  THEIR 
EARLY  EDUCATION. 

The  usefulness  of  our  horse  is,  to  a  marked  degree,  just  what  we 
make  it.  We  do  not  advise  letting  our  horses  control  us  by  their  su- 
perior strength,  neither. do  we  encourage  the  idea  of  conquering  our 
horses  by  punishment  and  abuse.  The  true  principle  of  control  of 
horses  for  the  best  results,  is  by  such  means  as  will  deprive  them  of 
their  power  to  oppose  us,  and  our  kind  and  humane  treatment  of  them 
whenever  we  are  in  close  contact  with  them.  Whenever  we  get  our 
horses  into  trouble,  confinement  or  entanglement,  it  is  far  better  to  be 
away  from  them  during  their  efforts  to  liberate  themselves,  and,  when 
they  find  all  efforts  fruitless,  then  is  the  proper  time  to  go  to  their 
assistance,  and  relieve  them  of  any  entanglement  or  uncomfortable  posi- 
tion they  may  have  got  into  in  the  struggle,  bearing  this  one  n^inciple 
in  mind  strictly,  we  become  masters  of  the  situation,  if  our  means  and 
methods  are  practically  applied. 

WE   MUST   ALWAYS   BE   SURE   WE   HAVE   THE  MEANS    OF 
CONTROL. 

One  point  of  great  importance  in  the  management  of  horses,  is  to 
be  sure  we  have  the  absolute  means  of  control,  without  failure  either  of 
principle,  method  or  appliance,  and  when  these  are  properly  applied, 
any  except  insane  horses  will  readily  become  subservient  to  the  reason- 
able requests  of  man. 

EDUCATION   OF  THE  HORSE   IN  THE  STALL. 

It  is  a  great  satisfaction  to  any  owner  of  a  good  horse  to  have  him 
understand  and  promptly  comply  with  all  requests  while  in  the  stall, 
without  excitement,  irritation  or  annoyance.  One  of  our  first  duties 
is  to  show  the  horse  what  we  want  of  him  in  the  stall  and  how  he 
should  comply.  After  tying  him  to  the  manger  and  getting  out  of  the 
stall,  the  next  thing  is  to  get  back  into  the  stall  on  either  side  without 
his  resenting  or  crowding  us  in  the  stall. 

MANY  COLTS   SPOILED  THE   FIRST  DAY  IN  THE  STABLE. 

Many  a  colt  has  been  forever  spoiled  the  first  day  he  was  in  the 
stable,  by  the  treatment  he  has  received  in  trying  to  get  him  to  stand 
over  in  the  stall.  It  is  usually  commenced  by  trying  to  push  him  over 
from  side  to  side;  but  if  we  have  not  strength  enought  to  overcome  this, 
then  we  are  too  apt  to  resort  to  the  whip,  fork-handle  or  club  to  ac- 
complish the  desired  result,  and  by  this  last  means  frequently  make  a 
bad  actor  in  the  stall  forever. 


140  HORSE     SENSE. 

HORSE  REFUSING  ADMISSION   INTO  THE   STALL. 

The  first  illustration  (Fig.  i,  Cut  No.  58),  is  designed  to  show  not 
only  the  position  frequently  taken  by  the  horse  in  the  stall,  but  the  ex- 
pression and  dangerous  action  towards  any  one  who  may  desire  to  enter. 
He  not  only  refuses  to  stand  over,  but  indicates  that  he  will  kick  if  he 
is  interfered  with. 


Cut  No.  58. 

What  is  to  be  done?  Shall  we  go  at  him  with  a  club,  to  teach  him 
what  we  want  him  to  do?  Or  shall  we  anticipate  the  difficulty,  and  bf 
fore  placing  him  in  the  stall  provide  the  means  of  easy  control,  as  shown? 
in  our  illustration  (Fig.  2,  Cut  No.  59)?  This  coiisists  of  a  staple  and 
ring  just  over  the  manager  (to  which  his  halter  should  be  tied)  about  as 
high  up  on  the  side  of  the  stall  as  his  back.  Another  ring  and  staple  at 
the  rear  end  of  the  stall  partition  (see  letters  A  and  B),  then  tie  a  rope 
or  strap  into  the  ring  of  the  nose  band  of  the  halter,  pass  it  through 
the  ring  A  and  back  to  the  ring  B,  to  which  tie  sufficiently  long  to  en- 
able the  horse  to  eat  along  the  entire  length  of  the  manger. 

THE  HORSE  ADMITS  ENTRANCE  TO  THE  STALL  WITHOUT 
OBJECTION. 
When  we  go  to  enter  the  stall,  we  should  place  our  hand  on  him, 
as  represented  in  Fig.  i,  Cut  No.  58,  and  if  he  refuses  to  stand  over, 
we  reach  forward  as  far  as  possible  in  the  stall  and  grasp  this  side-rope 
or  strap  and  at  the  very  instant  we  say  "stand  over"  we  must  pull  on 
the  rope,  which  will  bring  his  nose  to  the  side  of  the  stall  to  which  the 
rope  is  attached,  and  by  a  slight  push  at  the  hind  quarter  he  is  forced 
in  the  opposite  position  in  the  stall,  and  we  can  step  in  by  his  side  with 
perfect  safety  from  kicking,  fighting  or  crowding  (see  Fig.  2,  Cut  No. 
59)    and   this   followed   up    for    a    few   days    (often   repeated)    the    horse 


HOKSE     SENSE. 


141 


readily  stands  over  in  the  stall  to  the  right  whenever  requested,,  without 
fear,  excitement  or  resentment. 


FigE 


Cut  No.  sg. 

EDUCATE  THE  HORSE  ON  ONE  SIDE  THEN  ON  THE 
OTHER. 

When  he  has  fully  learned  what  we  want  from  one  side  of  the  stall, 
then  we  should  change  the  rope  to  the  other  side  of  the  stall  and  pro- 
ceed as  before,  and  we  are  soon  well  paid  for  our  trouble,  in  having  a 
horse  that  promptly  responds  to  our  every  wish  in  standing  over  in  the 
stall. 

SIMPLICITY  OF  METHOD  MAKES  IT  WORTH  TRYING. 

This  remedy  for  crowding  in  the  stall  is  so  simple  and  practical  that 
it  is  a  surprise  that  any  horfe  is  permitted  to  continue  the  habit.  The 
principle  is,  that  when  we  pull  the  head  up  and  to  one  side  of  the  stall 
it  is  perfectly  natural  and  easy  that  the  rear  end  must  go  to  the  oppo- 
site side  which  gives  room  and  safety  to  enter.  We  must  not  try  to 
whip  to  submission,  but  use  the  means  that  control  the  actions,  treat 
kindly,  and  success  will  crown  our  efforts,  in  the  management  of  our 
horses  in  the  stable. 

THE  HALTER-PULLER. 

This  habit  when  once  confirmed  is  quite  difficult  to  entirely  eradi- 
cate. The  first  way  to  avoid  this  bad  habit  is  proper  education  to  the 
halter  when  young. 

THE  CONFIRMED  HALTER-PULLER  CAN  BE  CURED. 

When  we  have  a  confirmed  halter-puller,  in  the  stable  or  out  of 
doors,  the  best  method  is  to  take  a  rope  ten  or  twelve  feet  long  and 
three-eighths  to  one-half  inch  in  diameter,  tie  a  knot  in  one  end,  then  a 
loop  that  will  not  slip,  or  a  ring  tied  in  the  end  will  do  as  well.     Place 


142  HORSE     SENSE. 

this  rope  around  the  body  of  the  horse  just  in  front  of  the  hips,  with 
the  slip  immediately  under  the  body  at  the  flank;  then  pass  the  rope 
along  under  the  body,  between  the  fore  legs,  under  the  noseband  of 
the  halter,  then  through  the  ring  or  hole  of  the  manger  or  post  to  which 
we  want  to  hitch  him  and  back  to  the  ring  of  the  head-stall,  and  tie  so 
as  to  give  him  about  three  feet  between  his  head  and  the  place  to  where 
he  is  hitched — all  as  shown  in  Figures  3  and  4,  Cuts  No.  60  and  61. 
Whatever  he  is  afraid  of  may  now  be  brought  in  front  of  him,  and  in- 
stead of  waiting  to  see  how  hard  he  will  pull,  we  start  for  him  and  don't 
stop  until  we  reach  the  point  to  where  he  is  hitched,  at  which  time,  nine 
times  in  ten  he  will  be  there  to  meet  us;  as  he  will  only  pull  while  one 
breath  lasts  him,  when  he  must  come  forward  for  relief. 


Fig  5 


^^:;^ 


Cut  No.  60. 
HALTER-PULLER   HITCHED   AT  BOTH   ENDS. 

Illustration  (Fig.  3,  Cut  No.  60),  shows  him  doing  his  utmost  tvj 
break  lose,  but  being  hitched  at  both  ends  of  his  body  and  the  pull  equal 
at  front  and  rear,  he  suddenly  leaps  forward  to  relieve  the  pressure  at 
the  rear  end  and  appears  a  shown  in  Fig.  4.  Cut  No.  61,  with  an  entire 
change  of  expression  and  demeanor.  He  may  try  it  two  or  three  times, 
always  with  the  same  results. 

A   MERE    STRING    WILL    BE    SUFFICIENT    TO    HOLD    THE 
HORSE. 

The  horse  may  now  be  tied  with  a  halter-strap  that  will  break  at 
only  a  moderate  pull,  with  the  rope  from  his  body  secured  to  the  hitch- 
ing post  or  manger,  so  that  the  pull  on  his  head  comes  first,  and  when 
the  halter  strap  breaks  he  comes  suddenly  into  the  hitch  around  his 
body,  which  so  surprises  him  that,  in  a  few  days,  by  hitching  with  a  still 
weaker  and  weaker  tie-strap,  he  cannot  be  induced  to  pull  enough  to 
break  a  mere  string.  The  hitch  around  his  body  should  not  be  neg- 
lected for  quite  a  time,  so  that  if  he  should  pull  back  and  break  loose, 
and  get  away,  he  has  intelligence  enough  to  know  when  the  rope  is 
around  his  body  and  when  it  is  not. 


HORSE     SENSE. 


143 


HALTER-PULLER  SURPRISED  FROM  THE  EFFECT  OF  THE 
REAR  HITCH. 


Fie- 4 


Cut  No.  6i. 
We  must  not  hurt  him,  nor  should  we  give  way  for  him  when  he 
pulls;  but  rather  follow  him  up  to  show  him  that  he  cannot  get  away 
from  his  object  of  fright,  which  soon  convinces  him  that  his  efforts  are 
fruitless. 

KICKING  AND  PAWING  IN  THE  STALL. 

This  is  a  very  disagreeable  habit,  and  unless  the  proper  means  are 
used  at  the  outset  it  is  also  quite  difficult  to  break  up  with  a  hope  of 
permanent  cure.  It  can  be  prevented  at  any  time;  and  as  soon  as  the 
horse  commences  kicking  the  side  of  the  stall  or  his  stall  companion,  he 
should   be  shackled  at  the  hind  legs  as  shown  in  Fig.  5.     Cut  No.  62. 

Fig  5 


Cut  No.  62. 
THE    HORSE   SHACKLED    IN    HIS   STALL. 


144  HORSE     SENSE. 

This  is  done  with  a  good,  strong  strap  buckled  around  each  hind 
leg  above  the  ankle  joints,  with  a  coupling  strap  between,  as  shown  in 
Cut.  No.  62  and  will  effectually  prevent  it,  and  if  persevered  in  its  use 
will  usually  cure  the  habit.     This  is  better  than  a  short  chain. 

Pawing  is  prevented  by  shackling  the  front  legs  in  the  same  manner 
as  shown  also  in  Fig.  5.     Cut  No.  62. 

How  frequently  we  see  a  pair  of  sharp  shod  horses  put  into  a  stall  to- 
gether and  very  soon  find  one,  or  both,  so  badly  cut  from  kicking  as 
to  render  them  unserviceable.  Now,  this  could  be  prevented  by  shackles 
on  the  hind  legs  of  both,  and  still  giving  them  sut^cient  liberty  to  step 
about  the  stall  or  lie  down  and  get  up.  It  is  best,  however,  to  first  put 
the  shackles  on  for  once  or  twice  before  getting  sharp  shod  to  get  them 
used  to  them  and  to  prevent  calking  themselves.  Many  a  valuable  young 
horse  has  been  ruined  in  the  hind  legs  from  kicking  the  stall,  generally 
acquiring  the  habit  for  the  want  of  exercise.  He  has  no  chance  to  exer- 
cise, consequently  he  goes  to  kicking  the  stall  until  it  becomes  a  con- 
firmed habit.  Pawing  in  the  stall  results  generally  from  the  same  cause. 
The  shackles  are  very  effectual  with  no  danger  after  the  first  few  minutes, 
and  then  only  from  self-calking.  A  trial  will  convince  the  most  skeptical. 
This  is  a  wonderful  remedy  for  wilfully  vicious  horses,  as  it  renders  them 
perfectly  harmless,  like  the  handcuffed  and  shackled  prisoner.  We 
should  treat  these  horses  kindly  but  firmly  and  go  about  them  with  per- 
fect indifference,  which  we  can  do,  under  the  circumstances. 

REMEMBER  THE  NATURAL  LAW  OF  FORWARD  AND  BACK- 
WARD MOVEMENTS. 

Right  here,  we  want  to  say  to  our  readers  that  there  is  a  principle 
with  horses,  that  whatever  happens  at  the  front  part  of  their  bodies  im- 
pels them  backward,  and  at  the  rear  part  induces  them  to  move  for- 
ward, and  with  this  ever  in  mind  it  will  greatly  aid  us  in  all  dealings 
with  our  horses. 

,      EDUCATING  THE  HORSE  TO  BACK. 

Almost  everybody  endeavors  to  educate  their  horses  to  back  by 
pulling  on  the  reins,  and  in  the  majority  of  cases  they  are  successful; 
but  there  are  many  horses  that  do  not  understand  what  is  wanted  of 
them  when  in  harness  and  become  sullen,  and  then  it  is  almost  an  im- 
possibility to  force  them  backwards  by  the  bits. 
DON'T  FIURT  THE  HORSE'S  MOUTH  TO  GET  HIM  TO  BACK. 

A  very  simple  and  effectual  method  is  to  stand  in  front  of  the  horse 
and,  by  only  a  gentle  pressure  on  the  bit  with  one  hand,  and  a  push  with 
the  extended  fingers  of  the  other  hand  between  the  point  of  the  shoulder 
and  breast-bone,  he  will  readily  go  backward  as  shown  in  Fig.  9.    Cut  No. 

THE   HORSE  BACKS  IN   COMPLIANCE  WITH   NATURAL 
LAW. 
In  giving  this  lesson  we  should  always  associate  the  pressure  of  the 
fingers  with  the  word  "back,"  and  in  a  very  few  minutes  the  horse  rea- 


HORSE     SENSE. 


145 


lizes  our  wants  and  moves  backward  at  the  word  alone.  If  we  have  a 
sluggish  or  sullen  horse  a  piece  of  wood  (not  sharp)  may  be  used  to  ad- 
vantage instead  of  the  fingers,  but  usually  the  fingers  alone  are  suf- 
ficient. Don't  make  the  lesson  very  long,  at  first,  and  by  the  third  or 
fourth  trial  the  horse  will  respond  to  the  word,  together  with  gentle  pres- 
sure on  the  bit. 


Cut  No.  63. 

DON'T  PUNISH  THE  HORSE  TO  BACK,  AS  BACKING  IS  AN 
ART. 

It  is  altogether  wrong  to  "jerk"  or  "see-saw"  the  bit  through  the 
mouth  to  get  the  horse  to  back,  when  one,  two  or  three  lessons,  as  in- 
dicated, will  make  a  willing  servant  in  backing  the  horse  without  punish- 
ment or  excitement.  With  the  horse,  backing  is  an  art,  and  must  be 
cultivated  with  great  patience  to  make  a  complete  success. 

When  we  consider  the  horse  in  harness,  cramped  at  the  mouth  with 
the  bit  and  at  the  rear  by  a  breechen  and  then  asked  to  back  a  load,  for 
the  first  time,  is  it  at  all  surprising  that  he  gets  confused  and  don't  know 
what  to  do?  Add  to  the  punishment  at  the  mouth  with  the  bit,  that  of 
the  whip  and  what  can  we  expect  him  to  do,  but  go  up  into  the  air  and 
throw  himself? 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 


CONTROLLING  THE  ACTIONS   OF  THE   HORSE  BY  HIS 
TAIL. 

There  are  other  uses  for  a  horse's  tail  than  to  brush  off  the  flies. 
In  our  hands  it  becomes  a  great  medium  for  controlling  the  actions  of 
the  horse.  Experience  with  plains'  horses  is,  that  there  is  no  other 
means  by  which  we  can  accomplish  so  much  in  so  short  a  time,  as  by 
hitching  the  subject's  head  to  his  own  tail  so  close  that  he  is  obliged  to 
gyrate  or  whirl  around  in  a  very  small  compass.  Yes,  but  the  natural 
query  comes  to  almost  everybody,  how  are  we  to  accomplish  this  con- 
nection of  head  and  tail  without  danger  of  getting  hurt?  The  answer 
is,  that  it  is  best  done  the  very  first  time  he  is  ever  caught  with  the 
lasso,  and  then  he  should  never  again  have  his  liberty  until  he  is  thor- 
oughly acquainted  with  his  controller,  man.  This  thing  of  catching  the 
wild  horse  and  then  letting  him  go  again  and  again,  soon  educates  him 
to  have  a  dread  fear  of  man;  besides,  he  is  very  apt  to! learn  how  to 
evade  the  fatal  noose,  which  only  serves  to  make  him  the  more  danger- 
ous whenever  anything  out  of  the  ordinary  routine  of  his  experience 
transpires. 

LET  THE   HORSE   RUN  AWAY   IN  A   CIRCLE. 

When  he  is  lassoed  and  thrown  is  just  the  time  to  put  the  halter 
on  his  head  and  secure  it  to  his  tail  before  letting  him  up.  Then,  with 
a  long,  limber  pole,  something  like  a  fishing-rod,  we  begin  his  educa- 
tion. See  Cut  No.  66.  He  has  the  use  of  his  legs — his  means  of  escape 
and  defense — and  at  our  approach  and  the  touch  of  the  pole  he  attempts 
to  get  away  by  flight;  but  his  run  away  is  only  in  a  small  circle,  and, 
notwithstanding  he  exerts  himself  to  the  utmost  of  his  ability,  he  does 
not  succeed  in  getting  away  from  the  touch  of  the  pole.  If  he  attempts 
to  kick  or  strike  at  the  pole  he  is  almost  certain  to  fall,  which,  of  itself 
is  an  admonition  that  he  had  better  not  repeat  that  action. 

POLING  THE  HORSE  A  GREAT  FEATURE  IF  WELL  DONE. 

This  whirling  motion  requires  but  a  very  few  minutes  to  render  him 
so  dizzy  he  must  either  stOp  or  fall,  and  he  generally  prefers  the  former; 
but  in  either  case,  when  he  stops  is  the  time  we  should  bring  it  in  con- 
tact with  every  part  of  his  body — as  advised  with  the  young  colt  and  like 
the  use  of  the  hand  in  our  first  visit  to  him  when  he  is  but  one  hour  or 
one  day  old — and  as  soon  as  the  wild  horse  finds  that  the  pole  does  not 
hurt  him,  and  he  has  done  his  very  best  to  get  away  from  it  and  failed. 


HORSE     SENSE.  147 

he  becomes  more  docile,  and  \vc  may  now  be  able  to  get  near  enough 
to  him  to  touch  him  with  the  hand.  But  it  is  far  better  to  use  articles 
of  clothing,  such  as  an  old  vest,  a  pair  of  pants,  a  coat  or  a  hat  securely 
fastened  to  shorter  poles,  and  show  him  that  he  cannot  get  away  from 
any  of  these.  We  will  very  soon  find  that  he  makes  less  and  less  ex- 
ertion at  each  attempt  with  new  objects  until  finally  we  get  our  hands 
on  him. 

WITHOUT    MISTAKES.    HALF    AN    HOUR    IS    AS    GOOD    AS 
THREE  MONTHS. 

If  we  make  no  mistakes,  in  half  an  hour  we  have  accomplished  more 
in  satisfying  the  wild  horse  that  his  attempts  to  get  away  from  man  are 
fruitless,  than  would  be  accomplished  in  three  months  by  the  ordinary 
process  of  "breaking,"  and  no  danger  to  horse  or  man  of  a  serious  char- 
acter. 

A  SUCCESSFUL  METHOD   OF  FASTENING  THE  TIE-STRAP 
INTO  THE  TAIL. 

The  successful  manner  of  tying  the  halter-strap  or  rope  to  the  tail, 
is  so  important  that  we  have  made  illustrations  to  show  to  a  certainty 
just  how  it  should  be  done  for  convenience  and  security.  We  puzzled 
our  brain  more  than  thirty-five  years  ago  to  evolve  this  knot,  or  manner 
of  tying,  for  this  purpose.     See  cuts  No.  64  and  65. 

Fig  7 


Cut  No.  64. 
MANNER  OF  TYING  THE  HALTER  STRAP  TO  THE  TAIL. 

Of  course  there  are  a  number  of  methods,  but  this  is  conceded  the 
best,  easiest,  surest  and  safest,  and  is  the  one  we  have  used  for  many, 
many  years. 

MEASURE   THE   DISTANCE   FROM   END   OF  TAIL-BONE  TO 
GIRTH-PLACE. 

A  tie-strap  with  a  snap  attachment  to  the  head  stall  of  the  halter  is 
preferable.     Detach  the   tie-strap  from  the  head-stall,  then  grasp  all  the 


148 


HORSE     SENSE. 


hair  of  the  tail  just  below  the  termination  of  the  tail-bone,  pull  the  tail 
around  to  the  side  of  the  horse  and  lay  the  strap  across  the  tail  with  the 
snap-end  just  about  where  the  girth  or  sursingle  should  encircle  the  body 
as  shown  in  Fig.  7,  Cut  No.  64.  Alark  the  strap  as  shown  by  the  arrow, 
so  as  to  preserve  this  proper  length;  then  turn  all  the  hair  of  the  tail 
back  towards  the  body  and  hold  with  the  left  hand,  while  we  reach  under 
and  bring  the  other  or  tapering  end  of  the  strap  around  the  tail,  and 

READY   TO   TIE    KNOT  IN   THE   TAIL   WITH    THE    HALTER 
STRAP. 

tuck  under  as  shown  in  Fig.  8,  Cut  No.  65.  This  is  a  knot  that  is  very 
easily  tied,  perfectly  secure,  and  instantly  untied  by  pulling  on  the  pen- 
dant end  of  the  strap,  and  we  also  have  hold  of  the  horse  by  the  head  at 
the  same  time  when  thus  untied. 


Fig. 8 


•*i^^.4^^■•'A:^^'^^^; 


Cut  No.  65. 

THE  HORSE  READY  TO  HAVE  HIS  HEAD  AND  TAIL 
HITCHED  TOGETHER. 

When  we  have  the  knot  tied  and  the  strap  of  the  proper  length  to 
attach  to  the  halter,  we  are  ready  for  active  operations.  ' 

It  is  always  best  to  select  some  place  free  from  stones,  posts  or  other 
objects  of  injury,  and  then  suddenly  bring  the  horse's  head  far  enough 
around  to  his  side  to  attach  the  snap  to  the  ring  of  the  halter  and  let 
him  go.  Then,  with  the  long,  slender  pole,  we  can  approach  him  near 
enough  so  that  the  legs  of  the  horse  come  in  contact  with  the  pole  at 
every  turn,  as  shown  in  Fig.  9,  Cut  No.  66. 

MAKING  THE  HORSE  FAMILIAR  WITH  OTHER  OBJECTS. 

After  he  becomes  familiar  with  the  pole,  then  we  bring  other  ob- 
jects of  all  kinds  to  him  until  he  no  longer  exerts  himself  to  get  away, 
and  then   we  should   begin   handling  his  legs   on    the   side  to  which   his 


HORSE     SENSE. 


149 


head  is  inclined:  first,  by  the  use  oi  a  soft  strap,  he  will  allow  us  lo  lift 
his  fore  and  hind  leg  then  with  the  hand. 


Fie,.  9 


Cut  No.  66. 
POLING  THE  WILD  OR  NERVOUS  HORSE. 
If  the  horse  is  a  sensitive,  touchy,  wild  fellow,  he  will  make  desper- 
ate exertions  to  get  away  from  the  pole,  but  if  we  attend  to  business  and 
follow  him  up,  he  does  all  the  work  and  we  look  calmly  on  until  he  stops 
or  falls,  when  we  try  to  touch  all  parts  of  his  body  without  hurting  him 
with  the  pole. 

TURN  THE   HORSE  THE   OTHER   DIRECTION. 

It  is  often  good  practice  to  unsnap  from  that  side  securing  his  head 
and  tail  to  the  opposite  side  and  see  if  he  will  try  to  run  the  other  way, 
(which  he  may  a  little),  then  handle  the  legs  of  that  side  to  which  the 
head  is  inclined. 


FIG    10 


Cut  No.  e?. 
WESTERN  OR  WILD  HORSES. 


150  HORSE    SENSE. 

If  he  is  a  western  or  wild  horse  that  we  will  have  difficulty  in  catching 
we  should  put  shackles  on  all  the  legs  as  shown  in  Fig.  5.  Cut  No.  62, 
and  Fig.  10,  Cut  No.  (>T,  and  instead  of  giving  him  his  entire  liberty  of 
head,  we  have  a  ring  or  loop  tied  in  his  tail  through  which  we  run  the 
strap  of  the  halter  and  attach  a  long  rope,  as  seen  in  Fig.  10,  Cut  No.  67- 

SHACKLING  THE  HORSE  ALL  AROUND  AND  FEEDING 
FROM  THE  HAND. 

If  at  any  time  when  we  wish  to  approach  him  and  he  tries  to  get 
away,  we  have  only  to  pick  up  the  rope,  and  by  pulling  on  it,  we  are  able 
instantly  to  bring  his  head  and  tail  together  as  shown  in  Fig.  11,  Cut 
No.  68. 


f^'G  H 


Cut  No.  68. 
THE   WILD    HORSE   CORRALLED,   HELPLESS   ANR    HARM- 
LESS. 

If  the  shackled  horse  does  not  stop  when  we  pick  up  the  rope  he 
will  wind  himself  up  and  becomes  perfectly  helpless,  so  we  can  go  to 
him  without  danger  of  being  hurt.  We  should  continue  going  to  him 
and  handling  him,  watering  and  feeding  him  from  the  hand,  caressing 
him,  showing  him  new  objects,  etc.,  etc.,  until  he  seems  pleased  with  our 
visits.  Then  we  may  lengthen  the  shackles  out  until  Tie  has  more  or 
less  use  of  his  legs,  and  then  we  should  begin  his  education  of  fol- 
lowing us,  backing,  the  word  "whoa,"  harnessing  him,  etc.,  when  he 
will  soon  become  a  valuable  horse,  if  he  is  endowed  with  a  fair  share  of 
intelligence. 

ALL  THE  HORSE'S  LEGS  TIED  TOGETHER  WITHOUT  PAIN 
OR  DISCOMFORT. 

Heretofore  we  have  been  depriving  the  horse  of  the  use  of  his  legs 
by  degrees  and  controlling  him  more  or  less  through  the  medium  of  the 
halter  with  head  and  tail.  But  now,  with  simply  the  addition  of  a  strong 
coupling  strap  or  rope  between  the  front  and  hind  legs  just  short  enough 
to  keep  the  legs  all  under  the  body,  so  as  to  neither  hamper  or  give  lib- 


HORSE     SENSE. 


151 


erty  of  action  and  we  can  remove  all  other  attachments  and  familiarize 
ourselves,  families,  neighbors  and  friends  with  the  young  or  aged  ani- 
mal, as  seen  in  cut  No.  69. 


Cut  No.  69. 

EVERYBODY    GETTING    ACQUAINTED    WITH    THE    HORSE 

AND    HE   WITH    EVERYBODY. 

Notwithstanding  the  subject  of  our  sketch  is  anxiously  looking  to- 
wards the  herd  that  he  was  but  recently  a  member  of,  he  is  now  seem- 
ingly contented  with  the  new  situation,  unhampered  in  any  way  except 
that  he  is  deprived  of  the  use  of  his  legs.  While  he  is  unable  to  go  any- 
where he  has  learned  that  he  is  not  to  be  hurt  in  any  way.  The  children, 
lady  with  umbrella  and  men  now  are  to  be  treated  with  indifference  by 
him.  as  he  knows  they  mean  no  harm.  In  this  condition  all  kinds  of 
objects  can  be  brought  to  him  and  he  can  be  made  acquainted  with  any- 
thing desired  by  his  owner  or  handler,  but  this  one  thing  must  be  en- 
forced on  the  mind  of  every  one  coming  in  contact  with  him;  that 
he  is  not  to  be  hurt  or  suddenly  frightened  under  any  circumstances. 

NATIVE  NEW  ZELANDER'S  METHOD  VERY  CRUDE  BUT 
ABOUT  THE  SAME. 

The  native  New  Zelander  drives  the  subject  to  be  handled  into  the 
mire  and  while  in  a  helpless  condition  they  make  themselves  familiar 
with  the  horse  from  every  quarter.  Men,  women  and  children  ride  the 
wild  horse  from  ears  to  tail.  They  bring  all  kinds  of  objects  to  the  horse 
for  his  inspection,  but  they  never  give  him  pain  and  by  the  time  they 
have  helped  him  from  the  quagmire  the  horse  realizes  that  they  are  his 
friends  instead  of  enemies,  and  they  make  very  reliable  animals. 

HAVE  THE  EDGES  OF  THE  SHACKLE-STRAPS  ROUNDED. 

It  must  not  be  forgotten  that  the  shackle-straps  must  be  made  very 

strong  and  have  the  edges  nicely  rounded  or  lined  witli  lamb's  wool  to 


152  HORSE     SENSK. 

prevent  chafing.     The  coupling  straps  for  the  front  and  hind  leg  shackles 
should  be  kepi  about  the  same  length. 

NO  LIBERTY  FOR  THE  WILD   HORSE  UNTIL  FULLY  EDU- 
CATED. 

If  the  reader  has  followed  us  closely,  with  frequent  reference  to  the 
cuts,  he  can  at  once  see  that  these  appliances  are  founded  on  right  prin- 
ciples and  lead  to  the  ends  to  be  attained  in  the  control  of  the  wild  horse 
without  injury  to  horse  or  man.  We  should  never  let  the  wild  horse  get 
away  from  us  or  have'  the  chance  to  take  the  advantage  of  us  in  any 
particular,  from  the  first  time  we  come  in  contact  with  him  until  he  has 
full  confidence  in  us;  neither  should  we  ever  hurt  him  when  in  immedi- 
ate contact  with  him,  if  we  expect  him  to  have  confidence  in  us. 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 


NOVEL,  BUT  PRACTICAL  METHOD  OF  HITCHING  OR  PICK- 
ETING HORSES,  ETC.,  ETC. 

On  our  large  prairies  we  can  not  readily  find  a  post  or  object  to 
which  we  can  tic  or  hitch  our  horses.  We  have  all  tried  various  meth- 
ods, but  the  one  shown  in  illustration  (Fig.  12.  Cut  No.  70),  is  as  con- 
venient and  practical  as  any,  where  we  have  two  horses.  Use  halters  or 
bridles. 

^  Fig.  12. 


/«-. 


Cut  No.  70. 
PAIR    OF    HORSES    HITCHED    HEADS    AND    TAILS. 

The  illustration  speaks  for  itself  and  consists  only  in  tying  each 
horse  to  the  other's  tail,  just  sufficiently  long  to  enable  them  to  get  their 
heads  to  the  ground  when  we  want  them  to  graze,  and  when  we  need 
them  they  can  be  found  not  far  from  the  very  spot  where  we  left  them, 
as  each  one  must  follow  the  other  in  a  circle.  The  knots  in  the  tails 
are  tied  just  the  same  as  the  one  just  mentioned,  except  that  the  tie- 
strap  or  rope  is  wound  around  the  tail  several  times  before  being  tucked 
under  to  finish  the  knot;  so  that  the  spring'^^f  the  hair  in  the  tail  will 
not  render  it  loose  and  become  untied.  If  several  turns  are  made  and 
drawn  down  tight,  there  is  no  danger  of  their  becoming  untied. 

This  is  a  safer  manner  of  picketing  horses  than  a  stake  and  rope. 
This  is  an  excellent  method  to  educate  little  colts  to  the  halter  if  they  are 
tied  short.    They  soon  learn  to  follow  the  halter. 


154  HORSE     SENSE. 

PICKETING  OR  LEAVING  THE  SINGLE  HORSE. 

We  are  often  asked  for  a  method  of  hitching  the  single  horse  on 
the  prairie  and  be  able  to  find  him  on  our  return,  and  here  it  is.  The  il- 
lustration speaks  for  itself.  Tell  me,  please,  how  far  the  horse  will  get 
from  where  he  is  left,  and  yet  he  can  eat  grass  and  move  around  over 
quite  a  space  (backwardly)  in  half  a  day,  but  cannot  go  forwards.  This 
is  a  very  convenient  method  of  grazing  the  lawn  or  feeding  to  grass 
■where  there  are  no  fences  for  holding  the  horse.     See  Cut  No.  71. 

THE  SINGLE  HORSE  HITCHED  TO  HIMSELF  ON  THE  PRA- 
IRIE OR  LAWN. 


Cut  No.  71. 

<;UNNY-SACK  OR  MATTING  AND  HALTER  WILL  KEEP  THE 
SINGLE  HORSE. 

Take  a  piece  of  strong  matting  four  feet  long  and  one  foot  wide, 
with  a  hole  cut  in  the  center  of  the  matting  so  as  to  put  in  a  ring,  or 
tie  the  halter  through  this  opening,  and  we  have  a  better  method  of 
learning  a   horse  to   stand   without  hitching   than  by  a   weight. 

It  is  better  to  put  shackles  on  the  front  legs,  as  shown  in  cut  No.  70 
<a  strap  around  each  leg  above  the  ankle  and  a  cross  strap)  to  keep  the 
matting  immediately  under  the  horse  at  all  times;  yet  in  many  cases  it 
is  just  as  effectual  without  this,  as  with  it.  Good  strong  "gunny"  sack 
will  answer  as  well  as  anything  for  the  matting.  This  is  simple  but  ef- 
fectual in  practice.  The  horse  is  practically  tied  to  himself  and  yet  he  is 
not  seriously  hampered.     See  Cut  No.  71. 

CONTROLLING  THE  HIND  FEET  OF  THE  HORSE  IN  SHOE- 
ING. 

So  many  people  have  trouble  in  handling  the  hind  legs  of  horses, 
in  caring  for  the  feet,  shoeing,  etc.,  that  it  is  best  to  give  an  illustration 
and  a  little  advice  in  the  manner  and  method  of  doing  it  easily. 

We  should  first  take  a  strap  or  rope  8  or  10  feet  long  and  lay  it 
across  the  tail,  as  seen  in  Fi^    7    Cut  No.  64. 


HORSE     SENSE. 


155 


INDUCING  THE  HORSK  TO  HOLD  HIS  HIND  LEG  UP. 
Tie  a  similar  knot  as  in  picketing  the  pair  of  horses,  (see  cut  No. 
70),  with  one  end  of  the  rope;  then  slip  on  iron  ring  on  the  rope  and 
tie  as  near  to  the  knot  of  the  tail  as  possible  and  secure  it  there  on  the 
rope.  Ne.xt  let  the  rope  drop  to  the  ground:  then  buckle  a  short  strap 
around  and  pastern  and  over  the  rope;  pass  the  rope  back  up  through 
the  ring  at  tJie  tail  and  an  assistant  can  hold  the  hind  foot  up  with  ease 
in   spite   of  the  horse's  efforts,  by  pulling  on  the  rope. 


Fig  13 


Cut  No.  72. 

If  you  are  alone  you  can  tie  the  horse  to  a  post,  and  after  pulling- 
the  foot  up  with  the  rope  and  he  has  ceased  to  struggle,  you  can  tie 
the  rope  to  the  ring  by  a  half  hitch  and  the  horse  must  hold  his  own 
foot  up,  and  you  can  operate  on   it  as  you  like. 

POSITIONS    OF    THE    HORSE    AND    ATTENDANT    AT    THE 
SHOEING  SHOP. 

The  consequent  troubles  of  many  horses  at  the  shoeing  shop  calls 
for  a  few  suggestions  to  reduce  to  the  minimum  the  sufferings  of  the 
horse,  the  danger  to  the  smith  and  the  conduct  of  the  attendant. 

Too  many  people  take  their  horses  to  the  shoeing  shop  and  go 
away  and  leave  them  in  the  hands  of  strangers  and  expect  to  return 
and  find  the  work  done  in  the  best  possible  manner.  This  is  in  many 
cases  almost  an  impossibility.  It  is  about  as  important  that  the  horse 
is  taken  care  of  by  an  attendant,  as  by  the  smith. 

THE  POSITION  OF  THE  ATTENDANT  ON  THE  SAME  SIDE 
AS   THE  SMITH. 

The  position  in  which  the  horse  is  made  to  stand  while  being  shod 
or  having  his  feet  cared  for,  is  of  more  importance  than  the  majority 
of  people  or  smiths  ever  think  of. 

Usually,  when  horses'  feet  are  being  handled,  and  especially  while 
young,   they   should  always  be   controlled  by  an  attendant  holding  the 


156 


HORSE     SENSE. 


horse's  head.     Now,  the  attendant's  position  in  relation  to  that  of  the 
horse  is  of  the  utmost  importance. 


Fig14 


Cut  No.  7z. 

ATTENDANT  NEARLY  ALWAYS  ON  OPPOSITE  SIDE  FROM 

SMITH. 

Almost  invariably  we  see  the  attendant  standing  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  horse  from  the  operator,  and  generally  with  the  horse's 
head  inclined  towards  him  as  seen  in  cut  No.  ^2)^  and  the  result  is,  the 
weight  of  the  horse  (to  a  degree  at  least)  is  thrown  on  the  man  holding 
the  foot  as  also  seen  in  same  cut. 


Fig  1^ 


Cut  No.  74. 

ATTENDANT  AND  SMITH  ON  SAME  SIDE— PROPER  PLACE. 

The  reader  may,  at  first  sight,  think  this  frivolous  to  some  degree, 
but  if  it  is  once  tested  with  care,  it  will  ever  after  be  practised,  as  the 
results  show  for  themselves. 


HOKSE     vSENSE.  157 

ATTENDANT    STANDING    ON    OPPOSITE    SIDE    FROM    THE 
SMITH. 

When  the  attendant  takes  his  position  on  the  opposite  side  from 
the  smith,  any  struggle  that  the  horse  makes  will  naturally  be  towards 
the  smith;  besides,  if  the  horse's  head  is  inclined  from  the  smith,  it 
as  naturally  throws  more  weight  on  the  smith  than  if  the  head  was 
turned  to  the  same  side,  and  renders  his  position  necessarily  more 
or  less  dangerous;  but  if  the  attendant  will  always  stand  on  the  same 
side  as  the  operator  and  incline  the  horse's  head  a  little  to  the  same 
side,  the  operator  is  relieved  of  the  bearing  down  of  the  horse,  as  that 
inclines  the  weight  on  the  opposite  legs  as  seen  in  cut  No.  74.  Besides 
the  easy  position  thus  obtained,  there  is  little  or  no  danger  in  the 
horse's  struggles,  as  they  will  be  away  from  the  operator  instead  of 
towards   him. 

COMPLETE     SUCCESS     DEPENDENT     ON     ATTENTION     TO 
DETAILS. 

The  details  of  any  department  of  animal  husbandry  goes  to  make 
up  the  sum  total  of  success,  and  while  we  have  in  the  last  two  chap- 
ters only  dealt  with  a  few  of  the  many  conditions  to  be  solved,  a 
careful  study  and  practice  of  these  will  be  preparatory  to  meeting 
other  contingencies,  the  sole  object  of  which  is  to  render  our  horses 
of  more  service  to  us,  by  showing  our  fellow  men  some  of  the  details 
of  the  methods,  horse  sense  and  true  horse  education,  resulting  from 
long  experience. 

WE  MUST  CONDUCT  OURSELVES  IN  HARMONY  WITH  THE 
CIRCUMSTANCES. 

We  must  ever  take  matters  as  we  find  them,  and  conduct  ourselves 
according  to  circumstances  and  conditions.  If  we  will  commence  the 
proper  education  of  our  horses  when  they  are  very  young,  we  will  find 
the  same  results  as  with  our  children  who  have  the  proper  training  in 
their  youth — no  trouble  in  after  life,  if  naturally  well  disposed;  but  if 
we  let  our  horses  run  wild  until  they  have  attained  their  mature  growth, 
we  must  certainly  use  such  means  and  methods  (without  violence)  as 
win  -"ositively  demonstrate  to  them  that  we  are  masters  of  the  situa- 
tion, yet  merciful  to  the  end. 

OUR  EDUCATION  WAS  NOT  ACQUIRED  IN  A  DAY.  NOR  IS 
THAT   OF  THE   HORSE. 

We  did  not  obtain  our  education  in  a  day,  week,  month  or  year; 
then  why  expect  the  horse  to  understand  all  that  is  needed  of  him  in  the 
unreasonably  short  period  that  is  ordinarily  required?  Because  we  have 
herein  indicated,  as  well  as  shown,  the  means  for  the  control  of  our 
horses,  we  sincerely  hope  none  of  the  readers  of  this  book  will  look 
upon  it  as  a  means  of  revenge  for  some  of  the  actions  of  their  horses 
and  severely  punish  them,  simply  because  advantages  can  be  so  readily 
taken  of  them.  The  whole  principle  is  to  avoid  danger  and  trouble 
with  our  horses,  rather  than  the  correction  of  acquired  bad  habits. 
Let  us  commence  right,  ever  keep  right,  and  we  will  always  be  right. 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

MEANS,   METHODS  AND   PRINCIPLES   OF   HANDLING   MA- 
TURE HORSES. 

The  author  confesses  that  he  has  more  or  less  misgivings  in  the 
preparation  of  this  chapter  than  any  of  the  others,  particularly  in  rela- 
tion to  the  means  and  methods  to  be  used  in  controlling  our  horses, 
when  in  the  hands  of  the  unobserving,  impetuous  and  passionate  "hoss- 
men." 

AS  MUCH  VIRTUE  IN  METHODS  AS  THE  MEANS  WITH  OUR 
HORSES. 

While  he  will  endeavor  to  impress  upon  the  mind  of  every  reader 
the  fact  that  there  is  fully  as  much  virtue  in  the  methods  as  the  means 
used,  he  is  quite  certain  too  many  will  adopt  the  means  of  control  (as 
the  key  of  success),  and  ignore  the  methods  (manner  of  using  the  ap- 
pliances) and  then,  failing  in  the  desired  results,  will  condemn  the 
author. 

THESE     MEANS     AND     METHODS    ARE     PROVEN    BY    EX- 
PERIENCE   AND    PRACTICE. 

The  means  and  methods  herein  given,  have  often  been  used  by 
the  author  and  found  the  most  valuable  of  any  he  has  tried.  They  are 
not  a  mere  theory,  but  principles  established  upon  experience.  The 
author  has,  in  the  preceding  chapters,  tried  to  impress  upon  the  minds 
of  his  readers  the  importance  of  complying  with  the  simple  laws  gov- 
erning our  animals,  and  he  cannot  do  justice  to  our  noble  servant — 
the  horse — without  referring  briefly  to  them  again,  and,  possibly,  in 
a  manner  that  will  make  it  more  impressive,  embracing  the  priniples 
and   laws. 

NATURAL    LAWS    GOVERNING    THE    ACTIONS     OF    OUR 
HORSES. 

The  pivotal  point  which  determines  the  action  of  the  horse  is  the 
center  of  his  body,  and  when  this  is  thoroughly  understood,  very  many 
of  the  mysteries  concerning  why  horses  act  as  they  do  is  easily  under- 
stood. Whatever  we  do  with  the  horse,  should  always  be  in  harmony 
with  these  laws. 

1st.  Whatever  transpires  at  the  front  of  the  horse  impels  him 
backward. 

2nd.  Whatever  takes  place  at  the  rear  of  the  horse,  inclines  for- 
ward   action. 


HORSE     SENSE.  159 

3rd.     All  side  motions  affect  in  like  manner — in  opposite  direction. 
4th.     In  all  of  our  operations  with  the  horse,  it  should  be  our  high- 
est aim  to  avoid  giving  him  pain  when  in  close  contact  with  him. 

5th.  Whenever  he  becomes  entangled  by  accident,  or  we  do  it  pur- 
poselj',  we  should  stay  away  from  him  until  he  reali^s  his  utter  help- 
lessness to  free  himself,  then  go  to  his  assistance  and  kindly  relieve 
him,  when  he  will  appreciate  us,  and  readily  becom.e  our  willing  ser- 
vant. But  if,  by  entanglement,  we  abuse  him  for  it,  then,  whenever  he 
finds  himself  encumbered  in  any  way,  he  naturally  goes  to  work  to 
free  himself  and  gets  away  from  his  handler — making  a  dangerous  horse, 
instead  of  what  he  should  be — kind  and  gentle. 

6th.  We  should  endeavor  to  control  our  horses  by  m.eans  and 
methods  that  will  demonstrate  to  them  that  we  are  the  stronger  (through 
the  means  used),  but  associated  with  kindness  whenever  in  close  con- 
tact with  them. 

7th.  In  connection  with  the  means  to  demonstrate  our  superior 
power  over  the  horse,  we  should  never  forget  that  the  medium  of  the 
stomach  is  the  most  direct  road  to  his  affections — consequently,  not- 
withstanding, we  may  lay  him  down,  deprive  him  of  the  use  of  his 
legs,  etc.,  we  should  feed  him  sugar,  sweet  apples,  cookies,  or  what- 
ever he  relishes  from  our  hand,  and  it  is  astonishing,  to  the  masses, 
how  soon  the  wild  or  even  vicious  horse  is  as  docile  as  a  lamb. 

8th.  The  reader  will  observe  that  the  means  set  forth,  in  Horse 
Sense,  is  not  intended  to  injure  the  horse  in  any  way,  but  to  enable 
his  handler  to  demonstrate  his  superior  muscular  power  (through  these 
means)  over  that  of  the  horse  without  any  manifestation  of  anger 
on  the  part  of  the  handler. 

9th.  We  should  at  all  times  keep  the  horse  cool  and  quiet,  and  en- 
deavor to  show  him  kindly  what  is  expected  of  him,  rather  than  to  try- 
to  force  him  to  do  what  he  does  not  understand. 

loth.  We  should  always  make  the  lessons  short  and  impressive, 
and  never  try  to  progress  faster  than  the  horse  fully  understands  what 
we  want  of  him. 

Note:  To  reassure  the  reader  that  we  are  correct  in  this  matter, 
we  have  to  only  remind  him  that,  if  a  horse  gets  his  head  fast  any- 
where, he  goes  backward  to  get  loose.  If  he  gets  his  front  foot  over 
any  obstruction  if  not  more  than  one  foot  high,  and  feels  the  pressure 
on  the  underside  of  his  leg,  he  instinctively  goes  backward  for  relief. 
When  he  gets  his  hind  foot  fast,  he  goes  forward  to  free  himself.  Fasten 
a  tin  can  to  his  tail,  and  like  the  dog  in  the  same  condition,  he  goes 
forward  as  fast  as  he  can.  If  the  horse  undertakes  to  go  through  a 
narrow  passage,  like  a  narrow  door  or  between  two  posts,  and  he  is 
pressed  on  both  sides  at  the  swell  of  his  body  back  of  the  middle,  he 
goes  on  through  if  it  knocks  his  hips  down.  Whoever  "broke"  a  colt 
to  the  halter  but  knew,  before  putting  the  halter  on  the  colt's  head, 
when  he  began  to  pull  at  the  halter,  that  tn'<;  colt  wou\d  go  backwards 
for  relief,  but  what  proportion  of  fnankind  ever  stopped  and  thought 
what  made  the  colt  go  that  way  invai'^'olr.''    Tne  colt  thinks  he  has  bis 


160 


HORSE     SENSE. 


head  into  some  kind  of  a  trap,  and  by  the  law  of  his  nature  he  must 
go  backwards  for  relief.  Blindfold  the  colt  and  he  will  stand,  gener- 
ally. 

Then  let  us  observe  these  natural  laws  in  all  we  do  with  our  horses 
and  we  will  hav.e  far  less  trouble  than  when  we  are  working  directly 
against  these  laws,  as  is  too  often  the  case. 

HANDLING  THE  HORSE  BY  THE  HEAD. 

As  most  of  our  horses  are  controlled,  through  the  medium  of  the 
mouth,  it  will  be  best  to  begin  our  illustrated  part,  of  chapter  xxxv,  with 
easy  and  effective  means  and  methods  of  controlling  the  horse  through 
the  mouth.  We  should  be  decidedly  opposed  to  the  use  of  harsh  bits, 
which  lacerate  and  mutilate  the  sensitive  mouth  of  the  horse,  by  and 
through  which  we  communicate  our  very  thoughts,  to  this  noble  animal, 
through  the  medium  of  the  reins.  For  many  reasons,  we  should  all  begin 
our  education  of  the  horse  through  the  medium  of  the  mouth,  with  a 
small  (comparatively  soft)  rope,  instead  of  iron  bits.  It  is  much  more 
effective,  will  not  bruise  the  soft,  sensitive  tissues  and  by  its  binding  char- 
acter, in  which  it  is  applied,  makes  our  work  more  readily  appreciated  by 
the  horse.    For  instance,  when  we  pull  on  the  rope,  it  binds  in  the  mouth, 


Cut  No.  75- 
SAFETY  (OR  STALLION;   BRIDLE,  FIRST  FORM  AND  POSI- 
TION. 


HORSE     SENSE. 


161 


and  does  not  let  go  until  tiie  horse  comes  to  us  or  we  go  to  him  and 
loosen  it,  which  is  at  once  appreciated  by  the  horse,  and  makes  us  looked 
upon  as  a  friend  in  need  and  not  an  enemy. 

STALLION  OR  SAFETY  BRIDLE. 

It  is  well  to  take  about  twenty  feet  of  one-fourth  inch  manilla  rope, 
with  which  we  can  make  a  better  stallion  bridle  than  is  generally  used  of 
any  other  character. 

MANNER  OF  ADJUSTING  THE  STALLION   OR 
SAFETY  BRIDLE. 

We  should  first  throw  one  end  of  the  rope  over  the  neck  of  the  horse, 
with  the  left  hand;  reach  under  the  neck  with  the  right  hand,  and  grasp 
the  end  of  the  rope,  and  tie  a  bow — bowline  knot  (see  Cut  No.  3^),  quite 
snug  to  the  neck,  (but  not  really  tight  or  too  close),  now  pass  the  left 
hand  under  this  part  around  the  neck,  and  draw  through  enough  rope  to 
go  in  the  mouth,  as  shown  in  Cut  No.  75. 


Cut  No.  76. 
SAFETY  (OR  STALLION)  BRIDLE,  SECOND  FORM  AND  PO- 
SITION. 

We  should  next  stand  with  our  face  toward  the  rear  of  the  horse,  tak- 
ing the  rope  in  the  right  hand  about  one  foot  from  the  neck  of  the  horse, 
then  reaching  over  the  rope  with  the  left  hand,  take  hold  of  the  rope 


162  HORSE    SENSE. 

v/ith  the  back  of  the  hand  up  and  forward,  as  seen  in  Cut  No.  75.  We 
must  now  pass  this  rope,  as  held  in  this  way,  over  the  horses  head  bring- 
ing the  right  hand  to  the  base  of  the  ear  and  left  hand  down  under  the 
neck  as  seen  in  Cut  No.  76. 

FINISHING  THE  ADJUSTMENT    OF    THE  SAFETY  BRIDLE. 

Now  we  should  change  hands,  taking  hold  of  the  rope  with  the  right 
hand  where  held  by  the  left  and  open  the  mouth  of  the  horse  by  pressing 
the  soft  end  of  the  finger,  or  thumb  of  the  left  hand,  against  the  roof  of 
the  horse's  mouth,  when  he  will  readily  open  the  mouth  and  we  pass  the 
rope  through  the  mouth,  and,  changing  hands  again,  taking  hold  of  the 
rope,  just  at  the  left  side  of  the  mouth,  with  the  left  hand;  then  pull  on' 
the  long  part  of  the  rope,  with  the  right  hand,  to  adapt  the  rope  to  head, 
and  we  have  the  most  effective  bridle  for  the  control  of  strong,  vicious 
horses,  or  biting  stallions,  to  be  found.     See  Cut  No.  35,  fig.  3. 

THE     HORSE    IS    PREVENTED    FROM    BITING    WITH    THE 
SAFETY  BRIDLE. 

By  pulling  on  this  rope,  only  moderately,  the  cheeks  of  the  horse  are 
forced  between  the  molar  teeth,  so  that  it  is  impossible  for  him  to  close 
his  mouth,  and  bite,  even  though  we  put  our  hand  into  his  mouth,  and 
hold  it  there,  if  we  keep  the  rope  tight. 

METHOD  OF  USING  THE  SAFETY  BRIDLE. 

When  we  have  it  snugly  applied  to  the  head  of  the  horse,  (not  loose- 
ly), we  should  permit  him  to  run  away  from  us,  the  length  of  the  rope, 
and  with  a  sudden  pull,  pivot  him  on  his  hind  feet,  or  stop  him.  He  is 
willing  to  stop,  no  matter  how  well  he  feels,  for  he  finds  that  his  head  and 
mouth  are  in  a  vice,  as  it  were,  with,  apparently,  no  relief. 

GETTING  THE  HORSE  INTO  TROUBLE  WHEN  AWAY  AND 
RELIEF    WHEN    NEAR    HIM. 

Now,  if  he  does  not  come  to  us,  we  should  go  to  him,  pat  him 
caressingly  on  the  cheek,  and  gently  loosen  the  rope  in  his  mouth.  He 
is  now  free  again,  and,  possibly,  may  be  so  reckless  as  to  try  it  again, 
with  the  same  results.  We  should  do  as  before,  three  or  four  times  if 
necessary,  when  he  fully  realizes  that  he  had  better  not  get  to  the  full 
length  of  the  rope  away  from  us,  or  if  he  does  the  rope  binds  his  mouth 
as  before. 

GIVE    RELIEF    WHENEVER    THE     MOUTH     IS     CRAMPED 
BY  ROPE. 

But  if  the  horse  will  come  to  us,  we  never  must  disappoint  him  in 
relief  and  kind  attentions  when  in  close  contact  with  him,  which  insures 
his  confidence  in  us,  that  no  matter  what  troubles  he  encounters,  he  is 
assured  we  will  help  him  out  of  the  difficulty. 

Now  a  full  description  has  been  given  of  the  method  of  applying  the 
safety  handling  bridle,  so  that  the  reader  can  readily  comprehend  the 
principle   of  handling  vicious   horses   without  serious   abuse  or  danger. 


HORSE     SENSE.  163 

The  horse  is  a  very  apt  scholar,  to  learn  either  good  or  evil,  and  it  is  for 
us  to  direct  him  aright,  as  he  never  forgets  what  he  has  fully  learned. 
A   CHEAP   AND   VERY    EFFECTIVE    RIDING    BRIDLE. 


Cut  No.  "jy. 
THE  HORSE  FRIGHTENED    AT    THE    SIGHT    OF  THE  UM- 
BRELLA. 


^^■^':::s 


MPJA  JC^^-   Cfr 


Cut  No.  78. 
HANDLING  THE  UMBRELLA  ON  HORSEBACK. 

Remember  the  law,  as  previously  referred  to,  that  whatever  happens 
at,  or  toward,  the  rear  of  the  horse,  impels  him  forward,  as  well  as  that 


164 


HORSE    SENSE. 


which  happens  in  front  of  him,  forces  him  backward.  It  is  well  illustrated 
in  cuts  No.  78  and  79,  in  handling  an  umbrella  on  horseback.  When 
the  umbrella  is  back  of  the  center  of  his  body,  and  he  takes  fright,  he 
naturally  tries  to  run,  but  by  bringing  the  umbrella  over  his  head,  as 
seen  in  cut  No.  79,  he  stops  instantly,  and  reverses  his  action  so  suddenly, 
that  we  must  be  on  our  guard,  or  we  will  go  over  his  head. 

A  GOOD,  CHEAP  RIDING  BRIDLE. 

It  consists  of  a  piece  of  quarter  inch  manilla,  or  cotton  rope,  from 
six  to  eight  feet  long.  By  placing  the  middle  part  on  top  of  the  horses 
head,  drawing  down  on  either  side  of  the  face  and  passing  through  the 
mouth  from  each  side,  up  on  top  of  the  neck,  and,  tying  a  knot  at  the 
withers  to  keep  froni  dropping  out  of  the  mouth,  we  have  a  good  riding 
bridle,  as  illustrated  in  Cut  No.  ']T,  down  in  front  of  the  horse  as  well  as 
applied  to  his  head. 


Cut   No.  79. 
BLINDING  THE  HORSE  WITH  AN  UMBRELLA. 

Now,  how  much  better  it  is  to  understand  this  law,  and  hold  on  to 
the  umbrella,  until  the  horse  finds  he  cannot  get  away  from  it,  than  to 
throw  it  away  at  first  fright,  and  ever  after  incline  him  to  run  away  from 
every  object  he  is  afraid  of. 

We  must  not  get  in  a  hurry  in  the  education  of  our  horses,  if  we 
would  have  them  fully  understand  our  meaning  in  all  we  do  with  them. 
"Hurry  often  makes  waste,"  and  mistakes  with  the  horse  are  very  difficult 
to  correct. 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

POWER  OF  MAN  OVER  THE  HORSE. 
Whenever  we  find  the  horse  does  not  feel  disposed  to  give  us  his  un- 
divided atttention,  with  the  apphcation  of  the  safety  bridle,  and  its  asso- 
ciate treatment,  then  we  should  proceed  to  demonstrate  to  him  our  su- 
perior strength,  through  the  means  we  use,  together  with  very  kind 
treatment. 
LAYING   THE   HORSE   DOWN— AND   MEANS   OF   DOING   IT. 

There  is  probably  nothing  we  ever  do  to  the  horse  that  is  quite  so  as- 
suring to  him  of  our  superior  power,  like  that  of  laying  him  down  and 
putting  him  in  a  perfectly  helpless  condition  and  at  the  same  time,  treat- 
ing him  with  the  greatest  kindness. 

MAKING  A  CIRCINGLE  AND   CRUPPER  WITH   ONE   PIECE 
OF  ROPE. 

We  first  take  about  fifteen  feet  of  three-eighth  inch  rope,  double  it 
at  about  one-third  its  length,  and  slip  a  two-inch  iron  ring  over  this 
doubled  portion,  and  tie  a  knot  in  the  double  rope,  so  as  to  hold  the  ring 
in  such  position,  that  the  doubled  end  will  make  a  crupper  and  back  piece 
the  required  length,  to  have  the  ring  rest  at  the  point  of  the  back,  where 
the  saddle  of  the  harness  should  be.  The  remaining  portion  of  the  rope 
forms  a  circingle  as  seen  in  cuts  No.  80  and  81. 

A  casting  harness  may  be  made  of  leather  consisting  of  strong  cir- 
cingle, back  strap  and  crupper  to  suit  the  taste. 


Cut   No.   80. 
CRUPPER  AND  CIRCINGLE  MADE  OF  ONE  PIECE  OF  ROPE. 
When  the  circingle  and  crupper  is  adjusted,  we  should  take  a  fourth- 
inch  rope,  twenty  or  thirty  feet  long,  pass  one  end  through  the  ring  on 
the  back,  pass  it  along  the  right  side  of  the  neck  of  the  horse,  through 


166 


HORSE    SENSE. 


the  ring  of  the  halter,  and  back  to  the  ring  referred  to  on  the  back,  and 
tie  securely.  Next  we  should  take  the  hold-back  or  side  strap  to  a  sin- 
gle harness,  or  a  good  ham-strap  will  answer,  pass  it  around  the  pastern 
of  the  left  front  leg,  passing  through  the  keeper,  so  that  the  buckle  will 
be  on  the  outside  of  the  leg  when  the  strap  is  pulled  backward.  Then 
we  must  lift  up  the  left  front  foot  of  the  horse,  run  the  strap  under  the 
circingle,  with  the  hair,  and  buckle  up  quickly  and  short,  as  seen  in  cut 
No.  8i.  As  soon  as  the  leg  is  securely  fastened,  we  should  let  the  horse 
have  his  liberty  to  about  the  length  of  the  rope,  when  he  is  apt  to  be  halt- 
ed, as  seen  in  cut  No.  82. 


Cut  No.  81. 
THE  HORSE  ALREADY  TO   BE  LAID  DOWN. 

OBSERVE  THE  METHODS  AS  WELL  AS  THE  MEANS;  THEY 
GO  TOGETHER. 

We  should  not  try  to  throw  the  horse  down  at  once  but  allow  him  to 
hobble  around  on  three  legs,  until  he  gets  tired,  being  sure  to  keep  at  a 
•distance  from  him  all  the  time,  letting  him  realize  that  he  is  in  trouble — 
that  he  is  a  cripple.  By  keeping  his  head  inclined  to  one  side,  with  slight 
tension  on  the  small  rope,  he  will  soon  get  tired,  and  drop  on  his  knees, 
when  his  head  should  be  pulled  to  his  side,  as  seen  in  cut  No.  83,  con- 
tinue to  stay  away  from  the  horse  and,  holding  him  in  this  uncomforta- 
ble position  until  he  falls  over    on    his    side,    when     we  must  pull  hard 


HORSE    SENSE. 


167 


enough  on  the  small  rope  to  bring  his  nose  to  the  ring  on  his  back  as 
seen  in  cut  No.  84. 

If  the  reader  does  not  believe  this  is  an  uncomfortable  position,  let 
him  try  to  look  back  over  his  sliouldor  one  minute  by  the  watch  and 
see  how  his  neck  will  ache.    After  the  horse  has  lain  in  this  position  one 


half  minute  to  a  minute,  he  will  make  a  desperate  struggle  to  rise  but  if 
the  small  rope  is  kept  tight  it  is  impossible  for  him  to  get  up.  Just  as 
soon  as  the  struggle  is  over  we  should  approach  him,  (keeping  the  hand 
rope  tight),  caress  him  on  the  head  and  neck  and  begin  relaxing  on  the 
hand  rope  until  he  is  stretched  out  on  the  ground  in  an  easy  position  as 
seen  in  cut  No.  85. 


168  HORSE    SENSE. 

If  the  horse  fails  to  appreciate  the  comfortable  position  we  have  given 
him,  and  attempts  to  get  up,  we  must  spring  away  from  him  and  again 
get  him  into  that  same  uncomfortable  position  by  pulling  on  the  hand 
rope  as  before.  See  cut  No.  83.  Now  we  will  hold  him  in  this  very  un- 
comfortable position  again  a  short  time,  to  let  him  know  that  we  are 
away  from  him  and  he  is  unable  to  extricate  himself.     If  he  struggles 


again,  we  must  do  as  before;  but  if  he  submits  without  a  struggle,  we 
should  never  keep  him  long  in  this  position,  but  go  to  him  and  relieve 
him  as  before.  By  the  second  or  third  round  of  trial  to  get  up,  he  fully 
comprehends  that  when  we  are  in  close  contact  with  him,  he  is  relieved 
of  his  troubles;  also,  that  when  he  attempts  to  rise  we  are  suddenly  gone, 
and  he  is  at  once  in  that  same  uncomfortable  position  again. 


HORSE    SENSE. 


169 


PUNISHMENT  DEFEATS  THE  VERY  OBJECT  AIMED  AT. 
As  soon  as  the  horse  discovers  that  we  do  not  mean  to  hurt  him,  and 
that  whenever  he  is  in  serious  trouble  we  come  to  his  relief,  he,  very 
naturally,  has  confidence  in  us.  and  cares  but  little  what  we  do  to  him,  or 
with  him,  that  does  not  give  him  pain. 


Cut    No.   84. 
THE    HORSE    ON    HIS   SIDE    AND    IN    GREATER   TROUBLE. 


'^^^: 


.C' 


Cut   No.   85. 
THE  HORSE  IN  A  COMFORTABLE  POSITION. 


170 


HORSE    SENSE. 


WHEN  DOWN  A  GOOD  TIME  TO  GET  ACQUAINTED  WITH 
OBJECTS  OF  FRIGHT. 

While  we  have  the  horse  down  in  this  way,  it  is  a  good  time  to  make 
him  familiar  with  us,  from  every  position,  holding  on  to  the  hand  rope 
all  the  time,  and  being  ready  to  pull  his  nose  to  his  side  at  any  moment, 
he  should  strive  to  avoid  us. 

As  sooji  as  the  horse  is  familiar  with  us  from  every  position,  also 
with  our  weight,  on  any  part  of  his  body,  lying,  sitting,  or  standing,  we 
then  should  begin  with  other  objects,  such  as  the  noise  of  bells,  pans, 
drums,  etc.  The  sight  and  touch  of  blankets,  robes,  or  umbrellas,  open 
or  closed  in  cut  No.  86. 


Cut   No.   86. 
THE   HORSE   EXAMINING    UNUSUAL    OBJECTS. 

By  bringing  objects  to  the  horse  when  down,  we  can  make  him  ac- 
quainted with  them,  without  his  getting  away  from  us,  or  injury  in  any 
way. 

THE  HORSE  EXAMINES  OBJECTS  AS  WE   DO,   BY   SIGHT, 
TOUCH  AND  SMELL. 

The  horse  examines  all  things  very  much  as  we  do,  first  by  sight,  and 
then  by  touch.  But  if  the  sight  is  sufficient  to  frighten  him  away,  he 
never  fully  satisfies  himself  by  the  touch:  he  stays  away  from  the  object 
through   fear  by  sight  alone.        Consequently,  the  importance  of  having 


HORSE    SENSE. 


171 


him  in  a  position  by  which  wc  can  bring  the  objects  in  contact  with  his 
body,  and  show  him  by  touch,  sight  and  smell,  that  there  is  no  cause  for 
pain  from  them. 


Cut   No.   87. 
CONTENTMENT  OF  HORSE  AND  MAN. 

If  we  have  done  our  work  consistently,  and  in  such  order  that  we 
have  carried  the  horse  along  with  us,  in  understanding,  step  by  step,  we 
may  now  take  every  incumbrance  from  him,  and  he  will  appear  as  seen 
in  cut  No.  87,  confident  and  contented. 

The  above  cut.  No.  86,  was  made  from  the  photograph  of  a  hand- 
some four-year-old  mare,  and  the  writer,  after  having  had  a  lesson  of 
about  twenty  minutes  (without  sweating  a  hair),  on  the  fair  grounds  at 
Madison,  Minn.  She  was  a  powerful  mare,  active  and  very  nervous  to 
begin  with,  but  very  soon  became  remarkably  docile,  as  almost  all  horses 
will,  when  properly  handled. 

REMEMBER  THE  HORSE  IS  ENDOWED  WITH  INTELLECT 
AND  PASSION. 

Don't  let  us  ever  forget  that  the  horse  is  endowed  with  intelligence, 
kindness,  fear,  passion  and  revenge;  and  we  must  conduct  ourselves  ac- 
cordingly, observing  closely  the  laws  of  correlation  between  men  and 
animals. 

AN  APPEAL  TO  THE  READERS  IN  RELATION  TO  METHODS 
AND  MEANS. 

Vow.  dear  reader,  please  remember  what  has  been  repeatedly  said, 
that  there  is  as  much   virtue  in  the  methods  as  the  means.     To  be  sure 


172  HORSE    SENSE. 

we  can,  by  the  means  here  represented,  throw  the  horse  down  with  con- 
siderable violence,  and  punish  him  severely  while  down  and  in  close  con- 
tact with  him,  without  his  being  able  to  help  himself;  but  by  so  doing  we 
defeat  the  very  object  aimed  at,  viz.,  every  time  thereafter,  remembering 
the  punishment  received,  he  will  refuse  to  submit  until  entirely  exhausted. 
But  by  the  cool,  quiet  method  and  not  being  in  too  great  a  hurry,  the 
horse  realizes  his  trouble,  gets  weary,  lies  down,  finds  he  is  unable  to 
rise  of  his  own  efforts,  yet  finds  he  has  a  friend  in  us,  who  comes  to  his 
assistance  in  time  of  need,  and  he  certainly  appreciates  it  with  a  kindly 
remembrance,  or  he  would  not  rest  so  contented  as  shown  in  cut  No.  87. 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 

MEANS,  METHODS  AND  PRINCIPLES  OF  HANDLING 
HORSES  BY  THE  LEGS. 

Having  previously  made  ourselves  familiar  with  the  horse,  by  laying 
him  down  and  proving  our  superior  power,  (through  the  means  used), 
and  at  the  same  time  relieving  him  when  he  got  into  any  serious  entangle- 
ments; if  he  still  persists  in  asserting  his  wishes  as  soon  as  he  is  assisted 
to  his  feet  again,  then  we  should  use  means  to  control  his  powers  of 
locomotion. 

Of  the  many  ways  and  means  of  controlling  the  horse  through  the 
medium  of  his  legs,  mention  of  a  few  of  the  more  important  will  suffice. 

We  will  commence  our  operations  by  taking  the  saddle  and  crupper 
of  a  single  harness.  We  use  both  girths  in  order  to  retain  the  shaft- 
holders  down  in  position. 


CONTROLLING 


Cut   No. 
HORSE    BY 
METHOD. 


DOUBLE    PERSUASIVE 


The  lines,  for  driving,  should  pass  through  the  shaft-holders,  in- 
stead of  the  terrets  on  the  saddle.  By  having  the  lines  through  the 
shaft-holders,  the  horse  is  prevented  from  turning  around  and  facing 
us,  as  the  lines  pull  across  his  thighs,  instead  of  over  his  back,  and  we 
are  enabled  to  keep  his  head  from  us. 


174 


HORSE     SENSE. 


When  we  have  the  Hnes  so  adjusted,  we  should  then  buckle  a  strap 
around  each  front  pastern.  Then  take  about  twenty  feet  of  quarter 
inch  rope  or  rawhide,  and  with  one  end  in  the  hand,  put  it  under  the 
girth  of  the  harness,  against  the  hair,  pass  it  down,  and  under  the  strap 
at  the  pastern  of  the  right  leg,  and  back  under  the  girth  again,  with  the 
hair,  and  down  to,  and  attach  to  the  strap  of  the  pastern  of  the  left 
leg,  when  we  can  take  the  rope  and  lines  in  hand,  and  get  behind  the 
horse,  and  commence  proceedings  as  in  cut  No.  88. 

If  the  horse  starts  of?  quietly  we  must  certainly  give  him  no  an- 
noyance, but  if  he  persists  in  trying  to  get  away  from  us,  or  rears,  we 
should  proceed  to  draw  his  front  feet  to  his  body,  as  seen  in  cut  No.  89, 
by  pulling  on  the  rope;  or  if  he  attempts  to  run  from  the  start,  we  pull 
on  the  rope,  for  the  same  purpose  as  seen  in  cut  No.  90. 


'^^^%A 


Cut  No 


THE  HORSE  REARING,  BUT  LOSING  THE  USE  OF  HIS  LEGS 
.IN  THE  ACT. 


REINS  FOR  THE  LEGS,  BETTER  THAN  TO  THE  BITS. 
When  the  horse  is  determined  to  get  away,  with  even  good  treat- 
ment, the  use  of  the  double  foot  attachment  persuader  is  very  effective, 
if  in  the  hands  of  a  considerate  and  affectionate  horseman.  If  the  horse 
starts  by  rearing  or  running,  and  we  pull  on  the  rope,  the  result  is  the 
same  in  both  cases,  and  is  very  well  shown  in  cut  No.  90. 


HORSE     SENSE. 


175 


It  is  quite  evident  from  the  appearance  of  the  horse  in  the  illus- 
tration, cut  No.  89.  that  if  the  attachment  give  way  he  is  at  liberty, 
but,  on  the  other  hand,  if  the  attaciimcnts  are  strong  enough  he  is 
bound  to  come  to  the  ground  on  his  nose  and  knees,  as  will  be  seen  in 
cut  No.  91. 


Now  that  we  have  the  horse  in  this  helpless  condition,  we  must  not 
keep  him  there  long,  or  he  will  get  discouraged  and  lie  down,  and 
possibly  refuse  to  get  up.  But  if  we  hold  him  in  this  position  but  a 
moment,  or  until  he  becomes  comparatively  quiet,  then  go  to  him 
calmly,  caress  him,  put  one  arm  under  his  neck,  loosen  the  reins  and 
rope,  and  lift  on  him  a  little,  with  an  encouraging  word  to  get  up,  he 
will  get  to  his  feet  promptly,  and  be  a  little  more  careful  afterwards. 


l<b  HORSE     SENSE. 

A    FAILURE    UNLESS     PRINCIPLES    AND     METHODS    ARE 
CLOSELY  OBSERVED. 

One  handler  will  use  this  appliance  with  the  most  satisfactory  re- 
sults by  going  slow  and  careful,  not  dropping  the  horse  to  his  knees, 
but  once  or  twice,  and  the  horse  realizing  the  advantage  taken  of  him, 
and  not  becoming  confused,  quietly  adapts  himself  to  the  wishes  of 
his  teacher,  while  another  handler  with  the  same  horse  would  make 
some  mistakes,  get  confused  ar  angry  himself,  and  soon  get  the  horse 
excited  and  have  a  real  fight  between  horse  and  man,  a  condition  that 
should  be  avoided  at  all  times  and  under  all  conditions,  as  no  good  can 
result.  The  natural  query  to  the  reader  then  would  be,  is  this  method 
valuable  or  dangerous  in  my  hands?  This  can  be  answered  only  by  say- 
ing that  by  these  means  we  can  prevent  the  horse  from  running  away 


Cut   No.   91. 
CONVINCING  THE  HORSE  OF  HIS  UTTER  HELPLESSNESS. 

or  doing  much  mischief  in  any  way,  which  we  consider  valuable  to 
both  man  and  horse.  But  we  must  urge  all  handlers  not  to  put  the 
horse  down  on  his  knees  any  oftener  than  can  possibly  be  avoided, 
for  the  best  results.  The  horse  can  travel  with  this  appliance  about  as 
well  as  without  it.  We  should  advise  the  use  of  knee-pads  if  the  horse 
is  to  be  driven  on  the  hard  rough  roads. 

THE  APPLIANCE  MORE  VALUABLE  IN   SINGLE  THAN   IN 
DOUBLE  HARNESS. 

The  double  persuader  is  better  and  more  practical  in  single  than 
double  harness,  on  account  of  this  depriving  the  horse  of  the  use  of  his 
front  legs  and  stopping  him  entirely,  which  must  necessarily  be  a 
hindrance  to  the  other  horse.  The  single  persuader  will  be  considered 
in  connection  with  the  work  in  double  harness  principally. 


HORSE     SENSE.  177 

CONTROLLING  THE  HORSE  BY  THE  SINGLE  PERSUASIVE 
METHOD. 

Now,  dear  readers,  please  don't  complain  of  our  heading,  because  we 
mean  it  in  its  most  forcible  sense.  Persuasive  influence,  with  both  men 
and  animals,  is  certainly  the  most  efifective,  as  we  shall  try  to  show 
here;  and  if  our  readers  will  apply  the  principles,  means  and  methods 
here  laid  down,  instead  of  the  whip  and  other  brutal  force,  we  are 
confident   of  gaining   our  point   with  both  the   horse  and  his  handler. 

Means  and  methods,  you  will  observe,  are  our  principles  of  con- 
vincing the  horse  that  if  he  is  determined  to  have  a  struggle,  it  must 
be  mostly  with  himself.  We  should  take  as  little  part  in  it  as  possible, 
consequently  try  to  devise  the  means  by  which  he  can  demonstrate  to 
himself  that  he  is  fighting  himself  rather  than  his  handler.  In  the  pre- 
ceding example  of  handling  the  horse  by  his  feet,  and  taking  both  front 
feet  from  him  by  the  double  persuader,  we  thereby  stop  him  in  further 
progress  of  locomotion,  which,  if  persevered  in  will  have  a  tendency  to 
anger  or  discourage  the  horse.  While  we  may  like  this  method  of  taking 
the  front  feet  from  the  horse  in  his  very  first  lesson  in  harness,  to 
convince  him  that  at  the  word  whoa,  or  in  an  attempt  to  run  away  with 
us,  to  rear  or  kick,  we  can  at  once  demonstrate  to  him  (without  pain) 
that  he  is  powerless  to  do  so  to  any  satisfactory  degree,  it  also  has  its 
objectionable  features,  as  we  have  before  indicated;  beyond  the  first 
short  lesson,  in  which  we  should  always  use  it  to  begin  with,  so  as  to  be 
sure  we  have  all  the  advantage  on  our  side;  after  which  we  use  the 
single  persuader  until  the  horse  fully  understands  what  we  wish  him 
to  do  for  us. 

PERSUASIVE  INFLUENCE  IS  ALWAYS   BETTER  THAN 
BRUTE  FORCE. 

We  should  not  depend  on  the  bit,  and  especially  harsh  bits,  to  control 
the  young,  ambitious,  or  even  vicious  horse,  because,  in  his  eagerness 
to  get  away,  or  do  mischief,  we  are  apt  to  injure  his  mouth  to  such  a 
degree  that  it  is  ever  after  tender  and  sore,  or  so  calloused  that  he  is  a 
"puller"  (lugger)  ever  after.  But  if  we  apply  our  "persuasive"  influ- 
ence as  hereinafter  described,  all  users  will  be  pleased  with  its  effect, 
and  not  take  the  chances  of  making  a  runaway,  kicking,  dangerous 
horse,  in  his  primary  lessons  in  harness.  By  the  use  of  the  "per- 
suader," we  are  enabled  to  make  the  horse  a  cripple  for  the  time  being, 
and  yet  not  necessarily  stop  or  hurt  him,  but  impede  his  progress  to 
such  a  degree  that  it  is  not  really  dangerous  to  his  handler  or  encour- 
aging  to  the  horse. 

If  the  horse  proves  to  be  a  runaway,  we  let  him  run  upon  three  legs 
instead  of  all  four.  If  he  is  a  kicker,  he  must  stand  on  one  front  leg  to 
do  the  most  of  his  kicking.  If  he  is  restless  and  uneasy  about  stand- 
ing, we  let  him  stand  on  three  legs  part  the  time. 

When  we  find  we  have  a  confirmed  kicker  it  is  best  to  attach  bells, 
tin  pans,  a  fourth  of  a  sack  of  bran  or  other  object  to  the  crupper  of  the 


178 


HORSE    SENSE. 


harness  and  let  it  hang  down  to  the  hocks  or  near  there,  and  drive  about 
without  being  hitched  to  a  vehicle  at  first,  as  seen  in  cut  No.  92. 


<-V(i, 


-»^<^i^' 


Cut    No.    92. 
THE  SINGLE  "PERSUADER"  APPLIED  TO  A  KICKER. 

Note. — The  rope  from  girth  to  pastern  should  show  double  and 
tied  at  the  girth  instead  of  at  the  foot,  as  in  cut  No.  92.  See  cut  No. 
93,  correctly  applied. 

The  cut  represents  the  horse  in  the  act  of  doing  his  utmost  to  rid 
himself  from  the  bells  attached  to  the  crupper  of  his  harness,  before 
the  persuader  has  actually  been  put  into  operation.  The  "persuader"  is 
applied  by  having  a  strap  around  one  front  pastern  only,  then  take  the 
end  of  the  small  rope,  and  pass  under  the  girth  from  the  rear,  down 
under  the  strap  around  the  pastern  and  tie  to  the  girth.  See  cut  No.  92. 
With  the  confirmed  kicker,  we  should  give  him  the  opportunity  to  kick 
once  or  twice,  or  even  more,  at  the  object  attached  to  induce  him  to 
kick,  before  making  it  hard  work  for  him  by  the  use  of  the  "per- 
suader." 

WHEN  THE  HORSE  GETS  WARM  AND  EXCITED,  STOP  TO 
COOL. 

As  soon  as  the  horse  gets  warmed  up  to  his  work  in  earnest,  or 
starts  to  run,  we  pull  on  the  rope  which  takes  one  front  foot  from 
him,  so  that  he   is  compelled  to  balance  himself  on  one  foot  while  he 


HORSE    SENSE. 


179 


does  his  kicking,  which  soon  persuades  him  that  he  is  making  hard 
work  of  it  for  himself.  Or,  if  he  attempts  to  run  and  kick,  he  must 
do  so  on  three  legs,  by  which  he  is  soon  persuaded  it  is  too  hard  work 
to  be  enjoyed. 

SINGLE   PERSUADER    BEST  USED   WITH   THE    HORSE   GO- 
ING IN  A  CIRCLE. 

If  he  is  a  powerful  horse  and  starts  to  run  and  kick,  we  should 
always  incline  his  head  towards  the  opposite  side  from  the  leg  that  is 
held  up,  which  induces  him  to  run  in  as  small  a  circle  as  possible,  and 
by  a  sudden  turn  of  the  head  he  is  very  apt  to  fall  broadside,  which 
again  persuades  him  he  is  making  hard  work  of  the  kicking  business, 
which  must  be  the  object  to  be  attained  in  the  correction  of  the  kicker. 


.-  -^ 


Cut   No  93. 
THE  SINGLE  "PERSUADER"   APPLIED  TO   THE   RESTLESS. 
HORSE. 

The  restless,  uneasy  and  impatient  horse  can  soon  be  persuaded  to 
stand  until  we  are  ready  to  give  him  the  word  to  move,  by  simply 
letting  him  stand  on  three  legs  a  part  of  the  time  when  he  is  most 
anxious  to  go.  But  as  soon  as  he  becomes  at  all  quiet — even  for  a 
few  seconds — he  should  have  the  benefit  of  all  four  of  his  feet,  to  assure 
him  that  we  will  give  him  this  benefit  if  he  will  only  be  quiet.  This  is 
fairly  well  shown  in  cut  No.  93. 

THE  SINGLE  PERSUADER  IS  FAR  BETTER  THAN  KICKING 
STRAPS  OR  HIGH   CHECKING. 

Mere  preventives,  such  as  kicking  straps,  high  checking,  etc.,  rarely 
ever    cure    the    kicking    habit.      But    if    we    would    give    the    horse    the 


180 


HORSE     SENSE. 


opportunity  to  kick  at  something  that  cannot  hurt  him,  and  have  him 
in  such  position  that  does  not  necessarily  prevent  him  from  kicking, 
but  makes  hard  work  of  it,  he  is  soon  persuaded  that  he  prefers  to 
have  anything  hanging  to  him  or  hitting  his  heels,  rather  than  work 
so  hard  to  get  rid  of  it  and  fail,  too. 

EVERYTHING  MUST  BE  SECURELY  ATTACHED  FOR  SUC- 
CESS. 

Everything  attached  to  the  harness  to  induce  the  horse  to  show 
what  his  natural  inclination  is  should  be  securely  fastened,  as  every  time 
he  succeeds  in  getting  rid  of  it  is  an  evidence  to  the  horse  that  he  carj 
accomplish  his  object  if  he  only  tries  long  enough,  and  he  is  perfectly 
willing  to  try  as  long  as  he  sees  any  possibility  of  succeeding. 

DEMONSTRATING  TO  THE  HORSE  THAT  HE  CAN  IN- 
STANTLY BE  MADE  A  CRIPPLE. 
Now  isn't  it  plain  that  if  this  is  all  done  quietly,  and  without  appar- 
ent efifort,  and  not  to  simply  annoy  and  tease  the  horse,  that  he  will 
soon  be  persuaded  that  he  is  only  v/orking  against  himself,  and  conclude 
that  he  is  doing  a  great  amount  of  hard  work  for  nothing?  Isn't  it  also 
apparent,  to  even  the  casual  observer,  that  if  we  can  permit  the  horse  to 
still  keep  going  (though  somewhat  crippled  in  one  leg)  that  he  will 
be  persuaded  to  go  quietly,  much  sooner  than  he  will  if  we  take  both 
front  feet  from  him,  which  stops  him  from  moving  entirely? 


Cut    No.    94. 

DRIVING  THE  KICKER  DOUBLE  WITH  SINGLE  PERSUAD- 
ER  ATTACHED. 

Note. — The  dotted  line  is  to  represent  the  rope  drawn  under  the 
body  of  the  horse  to  which  it  is  attached  and  between  the  horses  to  the 
driver,  and  not  on  the  outside,  as  the  same  would  appear. 


HORSE    SENSE. 


181 


HITCHING  THE  KICKER  IN  DOUBLE  HARNESS  TO  WAGON. 
We  neglected  to  state  before  that  when  we  are  ready  to  hitch  the 
kicker  to  a  vehicle,  we  prefer  to  first  drive  in  double  harness  to  wagon 
and  be  sure  to  have  the  "persuader"  on  the  outside  front  foot,  so 
that  if  he  should  fall  at  any  time  he  will  fall  outwardly,  instead  of  on  the 
pole,  and  possibly  break  it.  As  a  precautionary  measure  we  should  al- 
ways apply  the  "persuader"  to  every  colt  when  first  harnessed  to  a 
wagon  or  other  vehicle,  so  as  to  persuade  him,  at  once,  that  if  he 
attempts  to  run  or  kick,  that  he  must  necessarily  find  it  a  hard  under- 
taking.    See  cut  No.  94. 

THE  WILLFULLY  VICIOUS  KICKER. 

If  the  persuader  and  other  means  and  methods  fail  to  accomplish 
the  desired  results  with  the  confirmed  kicker,  then  we  must  try  a 
means  of  self  punishment  that  has  never  failed  with  this  class  of  unruly 
horses. 

SELF  PUNISHMENT  AT  THE  VERY  INSTANT  OF  THE  VIO- 
LATION. 

Self  punishment  is  valuable  for  the  reason  that  the  punishment  is 
dealt  out  the  very  instant  of  the  violation  and  at  the  other  end,  or  front 
end  of  the  horse,  which  naturally  attracts  his  attention  to  the  point  of 
punishment  with  such  force  that  he,  as  naturally,  forgets  what  has 
transpired  at  the  rear.  The  means  to  accomplish  the  work  consists  of 
one  piece   of  one-fourth   or   five-sixteenths   inch   rope,   about  twelve   or 


Cut    No.    95. 

KICKING   ATTACHMENT   FOR   SINGLE   OR    DOUBLE    HAR, 

NESS. 


182  HORSE     SENSE. 

fourteen  feet  long,  and  another  piece  of  seven-sixteenths  inch  rope,  about 
six  feet  long,  a  pulley,  four  straps  one  inch  and  one-fourth  wide  and 
about  one  foot  long  each,  and  two  iron  rings,  one  and  one-half  inches  in 
■diameter. 

First,  thread  the  long  rope  through  the  eye  of  the  pulley,  and  the 
short  rope  around  the  pulley  itself.  Now,  check  the  horse's  head  the  de- 
sired height  with  a  good,  strong  overhead  check.  Next  draw  the  short 
rope  backwardly  from  the  front,  and  under  the  girth,  so  the  pulley  will 
rest  just  back  of  the  girth,  as  shown  in  cut  No.  95. 

Next,  take  the  ends  of  the  small  rope,  carry  each  to  the  rings  of 
the  bridle-bit,  at  either  side,  passing  through  the  rings,  from  the  out- 
side (which  will  bring  the  rope  over  the  head,  under  the  headstall  of 
the  bridle)  and  carry  over  the  head,  from  each  side,  and  pass  through  the 
rings  again  from  the  inside,  and  let  them  hang  there  until  the  balance 
of  the  attachment  has  been  adjusted.  First,  by  buckling  the  straps  above 
and  below  the  hocks  and  through  the  rings,  as  seen  in  cut  No.  95. 
Then  tie  the  larger  and  shorter  rope  into  these  rings  at  the  hocks, 
by  half  hitches,  so  as  to  leave  the  pulley  just  back  of  the  girth,  and 
finish  the  adjustment  by  drawing  the  ropes  moderately  taut  at  the  bit, 
and  tie  on  either  side  by  half  hitches  also,  (which  makes  the  rope 
easily  untied,  no  matter  how  tight  drawn)  and  we  are  ready  for  the 
first  trial. 

GIVE  THE  FIRST  LESSON  WITH  ONLY  THE  HARNESS  ON 
THE  HORSE. 

We  should  always  commence  the  first  lesson  with  only  the  harness 
and  reins,  because  the  first  kick  may  be  a  terrible  one;  but,  in  all 
probability,  it  will  be  the  last  severe  one,  as  it  will  never  be  forgotten 
by  the  horse.  We  will  naturally  be  asked,  why?  It  is  for  the  reason 
that  when  the  hind  legs  are  forced  backward,  the  rope  over  the  head 
has  drawn  the  bit  so  far  up  into  the  angles  of  the  mouth,  and  holds 
it  there,  that  the  horse  forgets  what  happened  at  the  rear,  from  the 
fact  that  he  is  into  so  much  trouble  at  his  front  end  (the  mouth). 

EVERY    TIME    THE    HORSE    KICKS    HE    SHOULD    BE    RE- 
LIEVED AT  THE  MOUTH. 

It  should  be  our  duty  to  go  to  the  horse's  head  and  draw  the  bit 
down  into  the  mouth  away  from  the  angles,  and  caress  him,  immediately 
after  a  hard  kick,  satisfying  him  that  notwithstanding  he  got  himself  into 
trouble,  we  are  charitable  enough  to  help  him  out  of  it.  If,  by  the 
first  kick,  any  part  of  the  kicking  attachment  has  been  broken,  it  should 
be  repaired  before  relieving  the  horse  at  the  head.  This  attachment  is 
applicable  to  either  single  or  double  harness,  the  wagon,  plow  or  other 
vehicle;  but  we  should  never  hitch  a  kicking  horse  to  any  kind  of 
vehicle  where  he  can  injure  himself  or  break  the  carriage,  until  we  are 
satisfied  that  he  knows  better  than  to  kick  hard,  at  least. 


HORSE     SENSE.  1H3 

CAN   TRAVEL  ABOUT  AS  WELL  WITH  AS  WITHOUT  THIS 
ATTACHMENT. 

With  this  kicking  attachment  the  horse  can  walk,  trot  or  pace, 
but  cannot  run  to  much  purpose,  for  when  the  hind  legs  are  brought 
backward  together  it  must  produce  an  effect  on  the  mouth;  whereas 
the  movements  of  walking,  trotting  or  pacing  move  one  leg  at  a  time; 
the  leg  rope  plays  back  and  forth,  through  the  pulley,  without  any  appre- 
ciable effect  on  the  mouth. 

Except  in  a  very  straight  hock,  the  straps  will  stay  in  their  places, 
especially  if  both  upper  and  lower  straps  are  of  the  proper  length  to 
allow  the  ring  to  d'-aw  from  the  center  of  the  hock.  But  if  there  is  an 
inclination  to  drop  down  below  the  hock,  a  string  or  strap  from  the 
hock-band  to  the  back  strap  v/ill  keep  them  in  place. 

ALWAYS  CARRY  THE  SMALL  ROPES  OVER  THE  HORSE'S 
HEAD  BEFORE  TYING. 

The  reader  may  wonder  why  we  want  to  pass  the  long,  small  rope 
up  over  the  horse's  head  and  tie  into  the  bit-ring  on  the  opposite  side; 
but  will  naturally  say  to  himself,  it  is  just  as  well  to  tie  to  the  bit-ring 
on  either  side,  instead  of  going  to  the  trouble  of  passing  it  over  the  head 
and  tying  on  the  other  side. 

NEVER  TIE  THE  ROPE  DIRECTLY  FROM  UNDER  THE 
BODY  TO  THE  BIT. 
If  the  rope  is  tied  directly  to  the  bit-ring,  and  the  horse  should  kick 
hard,  he  will  certainly  bruise  his  mouth  badly,  and  may  break  the  bit  and 
get  his  freedom;  whereas,  if  the  rope  is  passed  over  the  head,  as  directed, 
the  hard  kick  draws  the  bit  up  into  the  angles  of  the  mouth  so  tightly 
that  the  pressure  continues  until  relief  is  brought  to  the  horse  by  his 
handler  pulling  the  bit  down  into  the  mouth,  which,  if  done  in  the  spirit 
of  kindness,  will  soon  satisfy  the  horse  that  it  don't  pay  to  kick  any 
more.     Its  use  should  be  persevered  in  for  a  considerable  time. 

A  MODIFICATION  OF  THE  LAST  NAMED  APPLICATION 
FOR  THE  KICKER. 
Before  trusting  the  kicker  without  any  appliance  to  prevent  him 
from  kicking,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  use  a  halter  under  the  bridle  with 
tic-strap  of  minimum  strnegth  only  (one  that  can  be  easily  broken) 
and  attach  this  strap  to  the  eye  of  the  pulley,  back  of  the  girth,  a  little 
shorter  than  the  ropes  of  the  headstall  of  the  bridle,  so  that  any  ten- 
sion from  the  head  to  the  hind  legs  will  come  on  the  nose-band  of  the 
halter  instead  of  the  mouth.  And  if  the  horse  should  make  an  effort  to 
kick,  the  halter-strap  will  break  and  the  effect  on  the  mouth  will  be 
just  the  same  through  the  medium  of  the  ropes  to  the  mouth  as  before. 

THE  HALTER  ATTACHMENT  FOR  SUBSEQUENT  US^  AND 
ITS   BENEFITS. 
After   the   horse   has   become   acquainted   with  the   additional   halter 
attachment   to   that   of  the   ropes   to   the   mouth,   the   rope   part  to   the 


184  HORSE     SENSE. 

mouth   may   be   discontinued  and  only   the  halter  method  used,   as   seen 
in  cut  No.  96. 


Cut    No.    96. 
HALTER  ATTACHMENT  FOR  KICKER,  TROTTER,  PACER  OR 

RUNAWAY. 

To  use  this  to  the  best  advantage,  a  good  strong  over-head  check 
rein  must  be  of  the  first  consideration,  next  a  strong  halter,  a  pulley  as 
used  in  the  former  attachment  for  the  confirmed  kicker  as  seen  at  (a) 
in  the  cut,  and  supporting  strap  from  the  hock-band  to  the  back  strap 
of  the  harness,  to  keep  "the  hock-strap  in  position.  Now  if  everything 
is  strong  and  the  hock-bands  well  protected  with  felt  or  sheep-skin  wool 
to  protect  the  skin  from  chafing,  we  are  in  good  shape  for  correcting 
many  of  the  bad  habits  of  the  horse,  such  as  bolting,  breaking  in 
trotting  and  pacing,  kicking  or  running.  As  long  as  the  legs  of  the 
horse  are  working  alternately,  everything  will  be  running  smoothly;  but 
the  instant  they  act  simultaneously  the  horse  "gets  it  in  the  neck."  That 
is,  every  time  the  horse  breaks  his  gait  or  kicks,  the  effect  is  instantly  felt 
in  the  neck  from  the  sudden  pull  on  the  halter,  which  the  horse  very 
soon  learns  to  respect  and  consequently  behave  himself  as  a  good  horse 
should,  without  punishment  from  his  driver.  It  is  a  part  of  his  harness, 
and  always  works  at  the  opposite  end  of  the  animal  with  the  most  em- 
phasis, and  without  a  movement  on  the  part  of  the  driver.  It  is  not 
as  unsightly  and  is  less  dangerous  to  the  horse  than  hobbles.  To  be  ap- 
preciated  it  must  be  properly  used. 

CLOSING  INJUNCTION. 

Before  closing  our  remarks  in  regard  to  all  the  preceding  ap- 
pliances for  the  sure  and  safe  education  of  our  horses,  we  would  again 
impress  on  the  reader's  mind  that  a  knowledge  of  the  methods  are  of 
more  importance  than  to  know  how  to  make  and  adjust  the  means. 
They  go  hand  in  hand  and  they  must  be  used  humanely,  or  the  objects 
aimed  at  will  be  utter  failures.  We  naturally  consider  these  the  very 
best  appliances,  properly  used,  to  persuade  the  horse  to  become  man's 
willing  servant,  that  we  have  ever  had  anything  to  do  with.  They  can 
be  used  without  scarcely  any  inconvenience  to  the  action  of  the  horse, 
and.  if  required,  can  be  put  into  immediate  effect  with  the  very  best 
results. 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

THE  SWITCHER  AND  LINE  CATCHER. 

The  rein  catcher,  with  the  tail,  is  often  a  dangerous  character,  not- 
withstanding he,  or   she,   may  otherwise   be   a  very  valuable  animal. 

NEVER   PULL  THE   LINE    SUDDENLY    FROM    UNDER   THE 
TAIL  OF  THE  HORSE. 

It  is  very  bad  policy  to  try  to  suddenly  pull  the  rein  from  under  the 
horse's  tail  whenever  caught  by  accident  or  purposely.  But  if  it  is  pos- 
sible to  let  the  rein  loose,  or  the  tail  can  be  lifted  from  off  the  rein 
quietly  by  the  hand,  the  animal  may  soon  recover  from  any  nervousness 
in  consequence. 

NEVER     FIGHT     OR     PUNISH     THE    LINE    CATCHER    AND 
SWITCHER. 

It  too  often  happens  that  the  mischief  is  done  by  some  unthinking  or 
inexperienced  driver,  and  the  animal  ever  afterward  rendered  dangerous 
or  at  least  troublesome,  to  say  the  least,  by  punishment  for  this  act  of 
catching  the   line. 

Mares  are  generally  worse  than  geldings,  and,  while  they  have 
free  use  of  the  tail,  may  constantly  keep  trying  to  catch  the  rein  under 
the  tail. 

NO  CHANCES  SHOULD  BE  TAKEN  WITH  THE  CONFIRMED 
SWITCHER. 

When  the  habit  of  catching  the  rein  with  the  tail  has  become  a 
constant  practice,  we  should  endeavor  to  prevent  it  by  tying  into  a  por- 
tion of  the  hair  of  the  tail,  a  little  above  the  terminal  end  of  the  tail 
bone,  the  middle  portion  of  a  string  of  sufficient  length  to  extend  the 
tugs,  or  traces  on  either  side,  and  securely  tie,  as  shown  in  cut  No.  97. 

TIE  THE   HORSE'S  TAIL  TO  THE  SHAFTS   OR  TRACES  TO 
PREVENT  SWITCHING. 

The  strings  to  the  tugs  or  shafts  should  be  drawn  taut  to  begin  with, 
and,  as  the  animal  becomes  used  to  the  rein,  it  may,  from  time  to  time, 
be  tied  more  loosely. 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  it  is  impossible  for  the  animal  to  se- 
curely catch  and  hold  the  rein  with  the  tail  where  this  device  is  used; 
and,  by  gently  dropping  the  rein  from  side  to  side,  without  teasing  the 
animal,  we  will  soon  establish  confidence  between  us  and  the  animal, 
and   the   habit   is   eventually   forgotten.      The   author   once   used   the   de- 


186 


HORSE    SENSE. 


-vice  a  whole  summer  on  a  very  nervous  mare  before  she  entirely  gave 
at  up.  Prevention  and  confidence  must  be  established  before  the  habit  is 
broken  up. 


Cut  No.  97. 
PREVENTION  AND  PROBABLE  CURE  OF  THE  SWITCHER. 

The  tie  in  the  tail  should  be  made  with  only  a  small  portion  of  the 
hair  on  the  under  side  of  the  tail,  about  the  size  of  a  pencil,  to  that  of 
the  size  of  the  finger. 

TYING  THE  SWITCHER'S  TAIL  UP  OVER  THE  BACK. 

When  the  nervous  switcher  will  not  quit  the  habit  of  switching, 
-we  can   often   effect   a    cure   by    tying   the   tail    up   over   the  back,    as 


Cut    No. 

THE    SWITCHER    WITH    THE    TAIL    TIED    UP    OVER  THE 

BACK. 


HORSE     SENSE.  187 

represented  in  cut  No.  98,  wliicli  is  done  by  tying  the  knot  in  the  tail 
as  heretofore  mentioned  in  handling  the  horse  by  his  tail  or  rather,  in 
picketing  the  pair  of  horses. 

Take  a  small  piece  of  rope  about  eight  feet  long  and  double  it, 
tying  the  double  end  into  the  tail  so  it  can  be  easily  untied.  Tie  the  ends- 
of  the  rope  to  each  of  the  hame  tugs  or  at  the  collar  about  even,  so  as. 
to  hold  the  tail  just  over  the  back,  and  draw  down  quite  tight,  so  as  to 
make  considerable  strain  on  the  cords  of  the  tail,  and  to  secure  them 
in  place,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  put  a  circingle  over  the  ropes  and  fasten 
around  the  body. 

MUSCLES  TOO  SORE  FOR  MUCH  MOVEMENT  OF  THE  TAIL. 

From  half  an  hour  to  two  hours  is  generally  sufificient  to  remind 
the  horse  that  his  tail  is  too  much  strained  to  do  much  of  a  job  of 
switching,  and  in  this  way  he  will  often  forget  or  quit  the  habit. 

CARE  MUST  BE  TAKEN  WITH  THE  NERVOUS  MARE  ABOUT 
THE   LINES   AND  TAIL. 

Too  much  care  cannot  be  exercised  in  handling  nervous  mares 
about  the  line  getting  under  the  tail,  and  whenever  it  happens  to  be 
caught,  either  stop  and  remove  it  gently,  or  slacken  the  line  so  it  will 
drop  irom  under  the  tail.  We  cannot  afford  to  jerk  it  out  and  take  the 
chances  of  spoiling  an  otherwise  valuable  animal.  "An  ounce  of  pre- 
vention is  worth  a  pound  of  cure."  "A  stitch  in  time  saves  nine."  Toa 
often  we  "lock  the  stable  door  after  the  horse  is  stolen.  "For  the  want 
of  a  nail  the  shoe  is  lost" — a  yank  at  the  line  and  a  stroke  of  the  whip 
in  haste,  often  gives  room  for  repentance  at  leisure. 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

THE  BALKY  HORSE. 

From  the  heading,  every  reader  will  naturally  say  to  himself:  "Well, 
now  you  have  introduced  a  subject  in  which  we  are  all  interested,  and 
from  the  varied  experiences  with  men  and  horses,  we  all  want  to  know 
more  about." 

WHAT  IS  A  BALKY  HORSE? 

A  balky  horse  is  one  that  has  been  badly  handled  or  overloaded. 
His  shoulders  are  sore  or  he  is  discouraged,  disgusted,  or  prevented 
from  going  when  he  wanted  to,  and  naturally  says  to  himself,  "you  have 
stopped  me,  now  I  will  go  when  I  get  ready."  Here  we  are,  and  the  ques- 
tion is,  "what  are  we  going  to  do  about  it?"  Well,  most  people  will  begin 
to  whip,  yell,  yank  and  pound  the  poor  horse,  and  so  confuse  him  that  he 
loses  what  horse  sense  he  had  and  stands  there  like  a  post,  puts  his 
head  over  the  other  horse,  or,  throwing  himself  to  the  ground,  breaks 
some  part  of  the  harness  or  wagon,  and  thus  gains  his  point  in  a  large 
majority  of  cases. 

MOST  BALKY  HORSES  ARE  MADE  FROM  ONE  OR  MORE  OF 
THREE  CAUSES. 

Horses  are  generally  made  balky  in  one  of  three  ways,  and  sometimes 
all  three,  viz.:  Overloading,  going  with  a  heavy  load  until  the  horse 
is  out  of  breath,  exhausted,  discouraged  and  disgusted  with  the  treat- 
ment of  his  driver;  by  badly  fitting  collars,  sore  shoulders,  improper 
draught  of  the  collar,  pulling  too  high  or  too  low  on  the  shoulder,  etc. 

THE  HIGH  STRUNG,  NERVOUS  HORSE  MUST  BE  TREATED 
VERY  KINDLY. 

Horses  are  made  balky  by  punishment  in  the  mouth  with  the  bit 
when  the  horse  is  disposed  to  go,  preventing  him  from  starting  when  he 
would  go  off  quietly,  by  "yanking"  the  horse  back  from  time  to  time, 
when  he  would  go  ahead,  until,  when  the  driver  is  ready  for  the  start, 
the  horse  has  concluded  that  he  dare  not  try  it  again  on  account  of 
the  punishment  by  the  bit,  when  he  absolutely  refuses  to  go  when 
asked. 

PUNISHMENT    AND    CONFUSION    OFTEN    MAKES    BALKY 
HORSES. 

When  the  balky  horse  has  stopped  is  the  time  the  fata!  mistake  is 
generally  made,   by  the  use  of  the   whip  at  the  rear  end  of  the  horse. 


HORSE     SENSE. 


180 


ami  while  lie  naturaiiy  would  go  ahead  by  the  tap  of  the  whip  on  the 
rump,  he  now  acts  under  the  impression  that  he  is  nut  to  be  per- 
mitted to  go  ahead  from  the  treatment  he  had  in  the  mouth,  and  now 
that  the  punishment  is  coming  at  the  rear,  he  says  by  his  actions,  "what 
am  I  to  do  now?"'  and  in  his  confused  condition  he  generally  rears  up 
and  throws  himself,  breaking  the  harness  or  wagon. 

BAD  MANAGEMENT  IS  A  FRUITFUL  CAUSE  OF  BALKING. 

Who  is  to  blame  with  the  balker?  Ninety-nine  times  out  of  one 
hundred  it  is  the  result  of  bad  management,  in  the  first  place  by  the 
driver,  consequently  the  old  adage  that  "balky  horses  are  made  by 
balky  drivers." 

REMEDY   FOR   BALKY    HORSES. 

Before  giving  the  remedy,  it  will  be  well  to  repeat  the  law  governing 
the  horse,  to-wit:  Whatever  happens  at  the  front  of  the  horse,  impels 
him  backward;  and  that  at  the  rear  sends  him  forward.  Now  we  must 
take  advantage  of  this  law  in  applying  the  remedy  to  the  balky  horse. 
Instead  of  the  usual  confusion,  excitement  and  punishment,  we  should 
quietly  get  down  from  the  wagon  and  caress  the  balky  horse  as  though 
nothing  was  wrong.  We  should  then  take  a  rope  or  strap  strong 
enough  to  draw  the  load,  and  from  eight  to  ten  feet  long,  with  the  short 
end  toward  us.  Then  we  should  lay  the  rope  or  strap  across  the  tail  of 
the  horse,  just  below  the  end  of  the  tail  bone,  about  three  feet  from  the 
end  of  the  rope  or  strap;  now  turn  all  the  hair  of  the  tail  back  toward 
the  body  of  the  horse,  holding  the  same  with  the  left  hand.  Reach  under 
the  tail  and  grasp  the  long  part  of  the  rope  or  strap  with  the  right  hand, 
bring  it  around  the  tail  and  tuck  it  under  that  part  of  the  tail  double,  as 


Cut    No.    99. 
THE   BALKY   HORSE    HITCHED    FOR  THE   START. 


190  HORSE     SENSE. 

shown  in  cut  No.  65,  where  we  were  hitchhig  the  horse's  head  and  tail 
together.     It  is  the   same   character  of  knot. 

As  soon  as  the  knot  in  the  tail  is  draw-n  firmly,  we  should  tie  the 
short  end  of  the  rope  or  strap  to  the  end  of  the  evener  (double  tree), 
with  the  tugs  (traces)  slack;  then  we  must  quietly  get  into  the  wagon, 
taking  the  long  end  of  the  rope  or  strap  with  us,  as  is  well  shown  in 
cut  99,  ready  for  the  start 

When  we  are  all  ready  to  start  (not  before)  we  should  touch  the  oth- 
er horse  with  the  whip  or  rein  for  a  sudden  start,  which  pulls  on  the  other 
fellow's  tail,  and  he  wonders  what  has  so  suddenly  happened  to  him 
at  the  rear  end,  which  induces  him  to  at  once  move  forward  without 
further  ceremony,  which  is  very  nicely  represented  in  cut  No.  100. 


Cut   No.    100. 
THE  BALKY  HORSE  PULLING  BY  HIS  TAIL. 

He  naturally  says  to  himself,  "this  is  a  new  attachment,  and  by  the 
law  of  my  being  I  must  go  forward,"  which  is  the  desired  direction,  and 
we  should  make  no  complaint. 

KEEP  THE   HORSE  PULLING  BY  THE  TAIL  UNTIL  SATIS- 
FIED TO  GO  WITHOUT. 

We  must  keep  the  horse  pulling  by  his  tail  until  he  becomes  fairly 
reconciled  to  that  way  of  drawing  and  going  steadily,  when  we  should 
quietly  pull  on  the  rope  or  strap  we  have  in  the  wagon,  which  releases  his 
tail  and  permits  him  to  pull  in  the  usual  manner  without  stopping. 

ALWAYS   UNTIE  THE  TAIL  WHEN    GOING   DOWN   GRADE. 

The  untying  of  the  tail  should  be  done  while  the  horse  is  in  mo- 
tion, while  going  down  grade,  and  if  he  does  not  appreciate  the  change 
and   should   stop,   we  must  again   get  down,   as   quietly  as   before,   and 


HORSE     SENSE.  191 

keep  it  up  nuicli  longer,  repeating  as  often  as  necessary,  until  the  horse 
decides  that  lie  prefers  to  draw  the  loads  by  his  shoulders,  rather  than 
his  tail,  as  shown  in  cut   No.   loi. 


Cut   No.    loi. 
THE  HORSE   CHEERFULLY   DECIDES  TO    DO   THE   WORK 
FROM  THE  SHOULDERS. 

The  object  in  writing  is  twofold;  first,  to  give  a  more  complete  de- 
scription of  the  means,  and  especially  the  methods,  than  has  hereto- 
fore been  observed  by  other  writers  on  the  subject;  second,  to  be  able, 
at  least  to  a  degree,  to  ameliorate  the  sufferings  of  our  horses  in  the 
hands  of  those  who  would  treat  them  more  humanely  if  they  only  knew 
the  means  and  methods  by  which  they  could  efifectively  do  so  in  an  in- 
telligent manner.  We  must  not  charge  the  abuse  of  our  horses  entirely 
to  the  naturally  cruel  dispositions  of  their  handlers,  but  to  a  want  of 
the  proper  means  and  methods,  also,  to  the  inherited  impression  in 
man  that  the  horse  is  only  a  brute  to  be  driven,  driven,  driven,  without 
giving  this  noble  servant  credit  for  scarcely  any  of  his  innate  intelligence. 

The  close  attention  given  this  subject  by  the  author  for  more  than 
forty  years,  and  a  study  of  the  natural  laws  by  which  the  horse  can  be 
made  as  obedient  and  useful  an  animal  as  treads  the  earth,  though  the 
means  and  methods  of  his  education,  is  the  reason  for  dwelling  on  the 
humanitarian   side   b'f  the   question. 

The  author  confidently  believes  that  when  the  young  men  of  today 
fully  understand  the  underlying  principles  of  horse  sense,  that  our  equine 
friends  will  be  handled  more  humanely,  and  there  will  be  a  better  under- 
standing between  men  and  horses. 

Note. — An  old  Mexican  method  of  drawing  loads,  and  especially  the 
^low,  by  the  tail  of  animals,  was  brought  out  at  a   Farmers'   Institute 


192 


HORSE     SENSE. 


at  Hagerstown,  Md.,  while  the  author  was  talking  on  this  important  sub- 
ject, through  a  Mr.  Daniel  Reichard,  who  had  traveled  extensively  and 
had  seen  many  methods  of  handling  horses.  He  said  "he  had  seen  many 
horses  and  mules  in  Mexico  drawing  the  old  crude  wooden  plows  hitched 
only  by  their  tails  to  the  beam  of  the  plow."  And  once  while  riding 
with  a  Mexican  in  Texas  on  horseback,  they  came  across  a  darkey,  who 
with  his  mule  were  stuck  in  the  mud  and  both  discouraged.  After  many 
attempts  to  get  out  of  the  dilemma,  he  said  the  Mexican  asked  the 
darkey  if  he  would  like  him  to  help  him  out  of  the  difficulty.  The  darkey 
replied  that  he  would  like  his  help  very  much,  but  he  could  not  see  how 
he  could  pull  him  out  "without  a  harness  on  his  hoss."  He  said  the 
Mexican  took  his  lariat  and  tied  a  similar  knot  with  it  in  his  horse's 
tail;  then  tied  the  other  end  to  the  shaft  of  the  darkey's  cart;  told  the 
darkey  to  make  his  mule  pull  his  best  when  ready.  The  Mexican  got  on 
his  horse,  gave  the  word,  and  by  the  use  of  his  spurs,  his  horse  pulled 
cart,  mule  and  darkey  out  of  the  difficulty  by  the  tail,  before  the  mule 
had  time  to  straighten  himself  in  the  harness.  To  the  surprise  of  the 
author,  ]Mr.  Reichard  stepped  forward  and  tied  the  knot  with  the 
familiarity  of  an  old  hand  at  the  business. 


Cut     No.      102. 

A  PAIR  OF  HORSES  CONNECTED  WITH   EACH   OTHER  AT 
BOTH    ENDS. 


HORSE     SENSE.  193 

IMPORTANCE  OF  KEEPING  A  TEAM  OF  HORSES  FROM 
SEPARATING. 

In  the  commencement  of  the  Iiandling  of  wild  horses  in  harness, 
one  of  the  first  considerations  is  to  keep  the  team  in  close  contact  with 
each  other.  Never  let  a  team  of  horses  get  in  such  position  that  they 
can  act  independently  of  each  other,  or  we  are  in  trouble  at  once  if 
they  are  so  disposed.  By  having  a  good  strong  neck  strap  on  each 
horse  with  a  coupling  connection,  we  are  enabled  to  hold  the  front  ends 
of  the  horses  as  close  together  as  we  desire,  and  by  connecting  the  tails 
with  rope  or  strap  (with  the  character  of  knots  heretofore  described  in 
picketing  horses  on  the  prairie,  cut  No.  70),  we  are  able  to  keep  the 
rear  ends  of  the  horses  at  any  required  distance.     See  cut  No.  102. 

When  the  horses  are  securely  connected  as  described,  we  can  take 
hold  of  the  lines  and  drive  them  with  the  harness  only  at  first.  It  is  al- 
ways better  in  the  beginning  to  use  an  old  steady  horse  with  the  newly 
captured  one,  so  that  the  experienced  horse  can  act  as  a  teacher  for  the 
inexperienced.  After  driving  about  for  a  short  time,  and  stopping  and 
starting  frequently  so  that  the  new  horse  may  learn  what  this  means, 
they  may  be  attached  to  a  log,  stone-boat  or  sled  and  driven  about  to 
this  for  a  sufficient  time  to  get  them  accustomed  to  pulling  and  working 
together;  then  they  may  be  hitched  to  a  heavy  wagon  with  rub-lock,  so 
that  in  case  the  rattle  of  the  wagon  frightens  the  young  pupil  we  can 
make  the  draft  suthcient  to  regulate  the  speed  as  we  may  desire. 

THERE  IS  ALWAYS  A  WAY  IF  WE  WILL   GIVE  THE  MAT- 
TER DUE  CONSIDERATION. 

Many  of  the  readers  of  Horse  Sense  may  think  there  is  entirely  too 
much  stress  placed  upon  the  security  of  our  horses  in  the  beginning  of 
their  education  (in  youth  and  maturity),  but  it  is  far  better  to  provide 
against  accidents  than  to  try  to  correct  bad  habits  after  once  acquired. 
We  3?iOuld  always  keep  in  mind  the  natural  laws  governing  the  actions 
of  our  horses  and  then,  knowing  the  greater  strength  of  the  horse  to 
that  oi  man,  we  must  provide  against  probabilities  as  well  as  possibilities. 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

MISCHIEF  IN  THE  HORSE'S  STOMACH. 

We  sincerely  hope  that  the  reader  will  feel  that  we  are  fully  justified 
in  our  frequent  references  to  the  welfare  of  our  horses,  and  the  ad- 
vantages to  their  owners  of  breeding,  feeding  and  general  care,  also  in 
urging  the  desirability  of  keeping  them  in  a  healthy  and  vigorous  con- 
dition. 

The  most  common  fault  in  dealing  with  the  horse,  and  particularly 
his  stomach,  and  probably  the  most  mischievous  and  detrimental,  is  in 
giving  water  just  after  a  full  feed  of  -grain.  Grain,  unlike  hay,  has  to 
undergo  gastric  digestion  in  the  stomach,  where  the  nitrogenous  ele- 
ments have  to  be  taken  care  of,  and  if,  by  the  addition  of  water,  the 
grain  is  forced  from  the  stomach  into  the  bowels  before  this  character  of 
digestion  is  accomplished,   the  food  is  practically  lost. 

TOO    MUCH    WATER    AFTER    FEEDING    IS    A    GREAT    MIS- 
CHIEF MAKER. 

Excessive  draughts  of  cold  water  after  feeding  is  a  great  mischief 
maker,  producing  vascular  congestion,  and  frequently  violent  muscular 
contractions.  It  lowers  the  temperature,  and  otherwise  intereferes  with 
digestion,  and  naturally  tends  to  promote  disorders  of  a  dangerous  char- 
acter. At  particular  times  a  copious  drink  of  water  of  only  moderate 
temperature  is  full  of  mischief. 

It  is  a  good  plan  to  always  allay  the  thirst  of  the  horse  before  giving 
grain,  and  if  any  water  is  given  after  feeding,  it  should  be  but  a  few,  and 
only  a  few,  swallows,  until  the  digestion  of  the  stomach  is  completed. 

TAKE  WATER  TO  THE  FIELD   FOR  THE  HORSE  AS  WELL 
AS  THE  MEN. 

When  the  farmer  is  working  in  the  fields,  the  horse  generally  is 
obliged  to  go  from  morning  until  noon,  and  from  noon  until  night, 
without  water,  when  his  driver  is  very  careful  to  provide  himself  with 
plenty  of  drinking  water,  and  takes  it  often;  never  thinking  that  the 
mute  horse  is  suffering  more  than  he  would,  if  he  had  forgotten  to  pro- 
vide for  himself.  A  five-gallon  keg,  or  one  that  will  hold  more,  and 
a  pail,  should  be  provided  from  which  to  give  the  horse  an  occasional  ^ 
small  drink  of  water,  which  would  be  as  fully  appreciated  by  the  horse  as 
the  driver's  drink  is  by  him,  and  is  but  little  trouble  to  take  tn  the 
field. 


HORSE     SENSE.  l\JO 

THOUSANDS     OF     HORSES     DIE    ANNUALLY     FROM    TOO 
MUCH  WATER  AT  A  TLME. 

Thousands  of  horses  die  every  summer  from  the  effects  of  drinking 
too  much  cold  water,  after  having  to  go  so  long  a  time  before  being  sup- 
plied with  that  natural  and  necessary  beverage. 

DIETING  HORSES. 

The  secret  of  feeding  horses  to  advantage  is  to  keep  their  appetites 
and  digestion  (which  are  very  closely  allied)  in  perfect  condition;  and 
to  do  this  is  to  study  closely  the  dififerences  in  likes  and  dislikes  in  the 
tastes  and  relish  of  each  individual  animal,  some  having  very  marked 
preferences  for  one  article  of  food,  and  strong  dislikes  for  others,  one 
horse  doing  well  and  thriving  on  some  foods,  while  others  will  fall  off  in 
flesh  on  the  same  diet. 

HORSES  HAVE  AN  AVERSION  TO  FOOD  OR  DRINK  OF  A 
GREASY  NATURE. 

Almost  all  horses  have  an  aversion  to  food  or  drink  of  a  greasy 
nature,  and  yet  there  is  occasionally  one  that  will  go  to  the  swill  bar- 
rel and  fill  up  on  its  contents  of  every  character. 

SOME   HORSES   CAN   BE  TAUGHT  TO    EAT   TOBACCO   AND 
DRINK  ALCOHOL. 

Some  horses  can  be  taught  to  consume  tobacco  and  even  alcoholic 
drinks,  and  as  a  stimulant  the  latter  has  been  used  to  a  considerable  ex- 
tent for  faint-hearted  racehorses.  But  the  administration  of  stimulants  is 
not  to  be   commended,   as   a   rule. 

HAY  AND  GRAIN  REGULARLY  BETTER  THAN  CONDITION 
POWDERS. 
Good,  clean  grain  and  hay,  with  water  at  regular  intervals  and  in 
moderate  quantities,  is  the  best  for  all  horses,  and  when  so  treated,  there 
is  rarely  any  call  for  stimulants  or  appetizing  foods,  such  as  condition 
powders,  and  a  long  '»ne  of  appetizers,  blood  regulators,  etc.,  so  freely 
advertised. 

DRUGGING  HORSES. 

Among  the  most  pernicious  ideas  which  possess  the  minds  of  many 
farmers  and  would-be  horsemen  is  the  notion  that  almost  any  one  can 
"doctor  a  horse;"  that  some  kind  of  medicine  must  be  given  to  every  one 
upon  the  least  symptom  of  disease;  and  that,  when  he  is  well  and  thrifty, 
some  drugs  must  be  given  him  now  and  then  to  keep  him  so.  The  reader 
will  not  have  to  strain  his  thinker  very  badly  to  recall  some  one  who 
believes  that  good  feed,  exercise  and  comfortable  quarters  are  not  nearly 
so  essential  to  health  and  thrift  as  a  few  doses  of  condition  powders, 
given  occasionally;  that  foul  water  and  no  salt  is  all  right,  if  he  has  a 
little  sulphur  and  copperas  once  in  awhile. 


196  HORSE     SENSE. 

PROPENSITY  TO  USE  DRUGS  WITH  OUR  HORSES. 

One  of  the  most  unaccountable  traits  in  the  makeup  of  many  men 
is  ihe  propensity  to  drug  animals,  and  to  be  deluded  by  the  bostful  pre- 
tensions of  ignorant  vendors  of  nostrums,  warranted  to  cure  all  ills, 
restore  shattered  constitutions  and  be  a  perfect  substitute  for  good^ 
wholesome  food  and  proper,  humane  treatment. 

MEDICINES  RIGHT  AND  PROPER  IN  THEIR  PLACE. 

No  one  will  deny  that  medicine  in  the  hands  of  one  competent  to- 
make  a  correct  diagnosis  and  skillfully  administer  the  same  (when  the 
horse  is  sick)  is  a  powerful  agent  for  relieving  a  majority  of  all  the  ills 
to  which  the  horse  is  subject. 

DRUGS     HIGHLY     INJURIOUS,     WHEN     NOT    SKILLFULLY 
HANDLED. 

The  point  we  are  trying  to  make  is  that  medicine  not  skillfully 
handled  is  highly  injurious,  even  dangerous,  and,  with  the  exception  of  a 
few  simple  remedies,  should  be  given  only  by  a  skilled  veterinarian. 

IT    IS    FOLLY    TO    EXPERIMENT    WITH    DRUGS    ON    THE 
HORSE. 

A  most  inexcusable  folly  is  that  of  experimenting  with  drugs  on  the 
horse  every  time  he  shows  some  trifling  ailment.  Yet  this  is  not  a  very- 
uncommon  practice  in  dealing  with  the  sick  horse.  If  the  animal  dies 
under  the  treatment,  as  it  does  sometimes,  the  owner  consoles  himself 
f  with  the  reflection  that  he  tried  everything  he  could  hear  of,  and  did  his 
best  to  save  the  horse.  If,  by  some  happy  circumstance,  the  horse  over- 
comes both  the  disease  and  the  bungling  treatment,  the  owner  pats  him- 
self on  the  back  and  believes  he  is  a  natural  "boss  doctor." 

THOUSANDS  RELIEVED  BY  SKILL,  AND  MORE  KILLED  BY 
BUNGLERS. 

Thousands  of  diseased  horses  are  relieved  by  our  skilled  veterin- 
arians, but  a  good  many  more  are  killed  outright  by  bunglers,  wha 
try  to  practice  a  profession  they  know  nothing  about.  Others  are  in- 
jured and  some  ruined  by  constant  dosing  with  quack  nostrums  and 
cure-alls. 

REST  WHEN  AILING,  GOOD  TREATMENT  WHEN  SICK  AND 
LET  ALONE  WHEN  WELL. 

With  rest,  quiet  and  proper  surroundings,  nature  will  correct  her 
own  slight  disorders.  Use  judgment  and  discretion  in  cases  of  emer- 
gency requiring  treatment.  If  the  case  is  serious,  leave  the  treatment 
to  one  skilled  in  that  line.  But  above  all,  when  the  horse  is  well  and 
thrifty  leave  him  alone. 

DRENCHING  HORSES. 

Whenever  it  is  necessary  to  give  fluid  medicines  to  horses,  it  should 
be  done  in  the  most  convenient  and  humane  manner.     Too  often  it  is. 


HORSE    SENSE. 


197 


seen  that  tlie  horse's  head  is  drawn  up  high,  by  tlirowing  the  halter 
strap  over  a  beam  in  the  barn,  holding  the  jaws  together  by  pulling  on 
the  under  jaw,  and  then  pour  half  the  prescribed  dose  into  the  horse's 
mouth  and  pound  him  on  the  throat  to  get  him  to  swallow.  By  this 
method,  every  move  is  in  opposition  to  the  natural  instincts  of  the  ani- 
mal. The  jaw-strap  o'f  the  halter  has  the  efifect  of  holding  the  mouth 
closed  frt)m  its  pressure  on  the  under  jaw.  The  pounding  or  pinching 
of  the  throat  also  tends  to  the  contraction  of  the  muscles  of  the  neck 
and  operates  against  the  horse  swallowing.  Now  it  should  always  be 
remembered  that  any  pressure  on  the  horse's  palate  (roof  of  the  mouth) 
induces  him  to  open  his  mouth  and  hold  it  open  as  long  as  this  pressure 
is  made.  The  illustration  shows  a  very  simple  and  effective  manner  of 
handling  the  horse's  head  while  giving  fluid  medicines.  The  picture  shows 
for  itself.     See  cut  No.  103. 


Cut   No.   103. 
PRACTICAL   METHOD   OF   DRENCHING   THE    HORSE. 


A  small  rope  the  size  of  a  clothes  line  , slipped  under  the  nose-band 
of  the  halter  and  into  the  horse's  mouth  and  lifted  high  enough  so  that 
the   medicine   will   gravitate    back   in  the    mouth,    will   answer   about   as 


198 


HORSE    SENSE. 


well  as  drawing  it  over  a  beam.  Either  will  answer  this  purpose,  but 
instead  of  pounding  the  horse  on  the  throat  to  get  him  to  swallow, 
just  tickle  him  a  little  with  the  neck  of  the  bottle  in  the  roof  of  the 
mouth  and  give  time  for  the  horse  to  close  his  mouth,  and  he  will  take 
the  medicine  very  readily  in  the  majority  of  cases.  Don't  strain  the  head 
too  high  as  that  very  much  interferes  with  swallowing. 

CHEAP  AND  PRACTICAL  SYRINGE. 

Since  it  is  well  known  that  injections  for  the  horse  per  rectum  are 
about  as  valuable  as  those  given  per  mouth,  it  is  important  that  every 
horse  owner  provide  himself  with  one  of  these  inexpensive  instruments. 
It  consists  of  an  ordinary  tin  funnel,  to  be  had  at  any  hardware  store. 


Cut    No.    104. 
GIVING    MEDICINE    BY    INJECTION. 

and  a  piece  of  rubber  tubing  of  just  sufflcient  size  to  be  stretched  over 
the  spout  of  the  funnel.  The  rubber  tubing  is  to  be  oiled  and  inserted 
into  the  rectum  from  four  inches  to  one  foot,  and  then  the  funnel  lifted  as 
high  above  the  horse's  back  as  the  tubing  will  allow,  and  then  the  med- 
icine or  injection  material  is  to  be  poured  into  the  funnel  and  let  it 
gravitate  into  the  bowels,  as  shown  in  cut  No.   104. 

WATCH  THE  HORSE'S  FEET. 

Too  much  care  cannot  be  taken  of  the  feet.  It  is  much  easier  to 
keep  the  feet  sound  than  to  cure  them  after  they  have  become  injured 
by  neglect  or  carelessness. 

If  your  horses'  feet  have  become  hard,  soak  them  in  water,  or  ap- 
ply a  poultice  of  flax  seed.  A  pad  made  of  a  piece  of  an  old  blanket, 
or  some  woolen  cloth,  thoroughly  wet  and  fastened  around  the  hoof,  will 
allay  fever  and  keep  the  feet  in  good  condition.  . 

WHERE  TO  FEED  THE  HORSE  GRAIN. 

The  most  natural  position  for  the  horse's  food  to  occupy  when  he 
is  eating,  it  is  on  the  ground.     In  ordinary  cases,  it  is  certainly  the  one 


HORSE    SENSE.  199 

which  is  the  most  conducive  to  his  health,  because  it  obliges  him  to  eat 
more  slowly,  oft'ers  more  facilities  for  the  saliva  to  flow  from  the  salivary 
glands  into  the  mouth,  and  gives  more  exercise  to  the  muscles. 

DRINKING  WATER  FOR  HORSES. 

Horses  are  so  fastidious  as  to  the  quality  of  their  drinking  water, 
and  grooms  are  often  so  careless  of  this  fact,  that  we  feel  certain  it  is  a 
mistake  to  have  a  fixed  water  vessel  alongside  of  a  horse,  which,  wc 
may  be  quite  sure,  will  not  be  cleaned  out  as  frequently  as  necessary. 
Observation  convinces  us  that  when  a  horse  has  a  basin  or  bucket  of 
water  constantly  in  front  of  him,  he  will  undoubtedly  slaver  into  it  and 
foul  it,  so  that  its  inner  surface  will  soon  be  covered  with  mucous  and 
•dirt,  which  will  not  be  always  cleaned  away  by  the  groom,  even  if  he 
be  careful  enough  to  keep  the  vessel  constantly  full.  When  the  re- 
ceptacle is  a  fixture,  the  cleaning-out  process  can  be  accomplished  only 
with   difficulty. 

THE  HAY  MANGER. 

The  hay  receptacle  should  never  take  the  form  of  the  old-fashioned 
hay-rack,  which  is  placed  high  up,  and  which  consequently  is  not  an 
uncommon  indirect  cause  of  inflammation  of  the  eyes,  from  irritating 
particles  dropping  out  of  the  hay  into  them.  Besides,  with  these  hay- 
racks, many  horses  get  into  the  idle  and  provoking  habit  of  pulling  out 
the  hay,  irrespective  of  their  desire  to  eat  it,  until  all  the  hay  they  have 
not  consumed  is  scattered  over  the  floor,  and  more  or  less  "messed" 
about. 

MANGE  IN  HORSES. 

This  annoying  disease  is  characterized  by  irritation  and  itching  of 
the  skin,  causing  the  horse  to  rub  himself  whenever  the  opportunity 
offers.  There  are  several  kinds  of  this  disease,  but  nearly  all  may  be 
relieved,  and  generally  cured,  by  removing  the  scabs  with  a  brush,  soap 
and  warm  water,  and  then  applying  a  strong  decoction  of  tobacco, 
which  can  be  made  by  putting  one  and  a  half  to  two  ounces  of  tobacco 
in  one  quart  of  water.  The  operation  should  be  repeated  in  about  two 
weeks,  to  destroy  the  new  brood.  The  barn  and  stalls  should  be  white- 
washed. The  parts  generally  affected  are  at  the  roots  of  the  hair  of 
The  mane,  along  the  back  and  tail,  head  and  sometimes  the  heels  and 
lower  portions  of  the  legs. 

FATIGUE,  A  CAUSE  FOR  DISEASE. 

If  a  horse  is  tired  when  he  comes  to  the  barn  we  should  not  water 
him  immediately,  nor  should  we  give  him  a  feed,  but  first  allow  him  to 
become   rested. 

The  following  methods  should  be  observed  in  feeding  and  water- 
ing horses: 

Avoid  sudden  change  in  the  kind  of  food. 

Avoid  sudden  changes  from  whole  food  to  ground  food,  and  vice 
versa. 

Limit  the  quantity  of  food  to  what  can  be  easily  and  thoroughly  di- 
gested. 

Water   before    feeding. 

Never  feed  or  water  a  horse  when  exhausted  or  very  tired. 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

MISCELLANEOUS  RECIPES. 

It  is  not  intended  to  make  Horse  Sense  to  any  special  degree  a 
veterinary  work,  but  there  are  a  few  recipes  that  have  been  found  to  be 
excellent  in  the  majority  of  cases,  and  for  the  convenience  of  those  in- 
terested, a  limited  number  are  given  in  the  hope  that  they  will  meet 
the  wants  of  its  readere. 

REMEDY  FOR  COLIC. 

We  should  give  these  cautiously,  as  conditions  alter  cases  to  that 
extent  that  remedies  should  be  varied  to  meet  the  conditions.  One  of 
the  first  remedies  is  ginger.  Take  about  half  a  teacupful  of  powdered 
Jamaica  ginger,  pour  on  cold  water  till  the  cup  is  full,  stir  thoroughly 
after  a  minute  or  so,  and  then  gradually  add  hot  water  until  it  is  about 
as  warm  as  the  horse  can  stand.  Give  as  a  drench.  Immediately  after- 
ward, if  there  is  a  tendency  to  bloat,  put  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  salera- 
tus  in  half  a  pint  of  warm  water  and  give  to  the  animal.  This  will  correct 
any  acid  condition  of  the  stomach  or  intestines,  and  often  relieves  bloat- 
ing at  once.  Injections  of  warm  water  and  soap  will  be  found  a  relief 
for  the  difficulty.  If  the  colic  is  due  to  over-feeding,  give  raw  linseed 
oil.  If  the  horse  is  of  ordinary  size,  say  1,200  pounds  weight,  then  give 
a  quart  to  a  quart  and  a  half,  and  if  he  weighs  from  1,400  to  1,600  pounds, 
then  give  from  a  quart  and  a  half  to  two  quarts.  It  will  be  found  the 
above  method  of  treating  colic  is  as  effective  as  using  the  most  expen- 
sive drugs,  providing  the  treatment  is  begun  in  the  earliest  stages  of  the 
disease. 

COLIC  REMEDY. 

Carbonate  ammonia I  drachm. 

Tincture  Ginger i    ounce. 

'Water i  Pint. 

Mix  and  drench  the  horse.  If  the  acid  or  gas  exists  in  the  bowels, 
substitute  lime  water  for  the  ammonia  and  add  half  an  ounce  of  tincture 
Gentian.  When  the  carbonate  of  ammonia  is  not  at  hand  bi-carbonate 
of  soda  will  answer.  The  addition  of  injections  will  be  a  great  help  in 
relieving  the  bowels  of  gas  and  fecal  matter.  Soap-suds  as  an  injection 
will  be  indicated  in  almost  all  cases.     If  the  above  remedy  does  not  give 


HORSE     SENSE.  201 

relief  in  hall  an   hour,   it  will   be  well   to   give  the  following  every  three 
hours  until  it  operates: 

Turpentine I  ounce. 

Raw  linseed  oil i  quart. 

Mix  and  give  at  one  dose.  Then  follow  up  wi^h  the  first  named  colic 
remedy  above,  every  hour  until  the  horse  is  comfortable  and  eating. 

FLATULENT  COLIC. 

Powdered  grains  of  paradise i       teaspoonful 

Powdered   caraway  seeds J  i  teaspoonful 

Oil   peppermint 20      drops 

Powdered  slippery  elm i       tablespoonful 

Hot  water i       pint 

Mix,  give  one  dose  and  repeat  if  necessary.     It  is  perfectly  harmless. 
If  the  disease  proves  a  complicated  one,  no  time  should  be  lost  in 
calling  a  competent  veterinarian. 

DIARRHEA— SCOURS. 

Powdered   ginger    (African) 3  drachms 

Powdered  charcoal 2  drachms 

Flour    gruel i  pint 

Oil  peppermint 20  drops 

]\Iix  and  give  at  one  dose,  which  may  be  repeated  in  six  hours  if  the 
disease  is  not  checked.  We  should  not  be  in  too  great  a  hurry  to  stop 
the  diarrhea  or  we  will  be  in  greater  trouble.  If  the  liver  is  involved  in 
the  difficulty,  we  may  give  a  few  doses  of  the  following: 

Powdered  gentian 2  oimces 

Powdered  ginger   (African) i  ounce 

Salt I  ounce 

Mix  and  give  in  half  ounce  doses  twice  a  day.     The  first  may  answer 
the  purpose,  but  it  may  require  both  to  accomplish  a  cure.  ■ 

SCOURS  IN  THE  YOUNG  FOAL. 
This  is  a  matter  of  more  than  passing  notice.  The  young  foal  is 
dependent  on  its  dam  for  all  the  food  it  gets,  consequently  our  attention 
should  be  to  the  feed  and  care  of  the  mother  of  the  colt  rather  than  the 
colt  itself.  If  the  food  is  not  sufficiently  nourishing  for  the  requirements 
of  both,  it  will  first  show  in  the  colt.  But  if  the  food  for  the  mare  is 
generous  and  she  is  a  glutton  in  both  eating  and  drinking,  the  colt  is 
very  apt  to  have  an  attack  of  the  scours,  and  instead  of  treating  the  colt 
for  the  disease,  we  should  cut  down  on  the  feed  and  drink  of  the  mare, 
and  the  trouble  will  soon  be  over  with.  Sometimes,  limiting  the  water 
supply  to  the  mare  will  be  all  that  is  necessary  to  relieve  the  colt  of 
scours.  A  raw  egg  broken  in  the  mouth  of  the  colt  and  swallowed  is 
beneficial,  but  will  not  relieve  the  difficulty  without  attention  to  the  feed 
and  drink  of  the  dam. 

SLAVERING. 

Powdered  bayberry   bark I  ounce 

Powdered  gum  myrrh I  ounce 

Powdered   goldenseal i  ounce 

Powdered  ginger I  ounce 

Powdered  sulphur i  ounce 

Mix  and  divide   into  eight  powders,   giving  one   (in   fine   feed)   night 


202  HORSE    SENSE. 

and  morning.  In  some  cases  it  may  be  necessary  to  use  astringent  mouth 
washes,  composed  of  bayberry  bark,  witch-hazel,  alum,  etc.,  either  of 
■which  is  good  where  astringents  are  indicated. 

PREPARATION   FOR  THE  EXPULSION   OF  BOTS. 

Powdered  male  fern 2  ounces 

Powdered  aloes i  ounce 

Powdered  poplar  bark 4  ounces 

White  mustard  seed 2  ounces 

Common    salt 6  ounces 

Mix  and  divide  into  eighteen  doses,  giving  one  each  night  and  morn- 
ing in  the  feed.  If  the  horse  can  have  the  advantage  of  some  green  food, 
the  better. 

The  nits  or  eggs  from  which  the  bots  derive  their  start  is  deposited 
"by  the  female  Gad-fly  upon  the  front  legs  of  horses  principally,  and  they 
can  be  removed  by  greasing  the  hair  of  the  legs  and  then  rubbing  with 
a  coarse  cloth,  or  washing  with  warm  water. 

THE  HORSE'S  STOMACH  THE  NATURAL  HOME  OF  THE 
BOT. 

Now  please  don't  take  it  for  granted  that  this  remedy  is  given  for  the 
expulsion  of  the  bots,  because  we  believe  that  they  injure  or  disease  the 
horse  in  the  least.  But  it  is  given  to  satisfy  those  people  who  are  sure 
that  bots  are  a  very  dangerous  enemy  to  the  health  of  the  horse.  The 
preparation  is  one  that  will  do  no  harm  if  it  does  not  remove  all  of  the 
bots,  and  as  good  for  the  purpose  as  anything  that  we  know  of. 

INDIGESTION. 

Powdered  ginger   (African) 2  ounces 

Powdered  poplar  bark 2  ounces 

Powdered  asafoetida 2  ounces 

Powdered  sulphate  iron 5  drachms 

Powdered  capsicum I  drachm 

Oat-meal •  •    i  pound 

Mix,  divide  into  sixteen  parts,  giving  one  each  night  in  the  feed. 

WORM  REMEDY. 

Powdered   wormseed 2  ounces 

Powdered  mandrake 2  ounces 

Powdered  sulphur 2  ounces 

Powdered  ginger  (African) 2  ounces 

Powdered   charcoal 2  ounces 

White   mustard   seed   (whole) 2  ounces 

Salt 2  ounces 

Powdered  poplar   bark i  pound 

Mix  and  divide  into  twenty  powders,  and  give  one  night  and  morn- 
ing in  the  feed.  This  will  improve  the  health  of  the  horse  and  have 
a  tendency  to  expel  the  worms. 

Note. — Many  of  the  so-called  worm  remedies  are  not  reliable  for  all 
cases  and  character  of  worms.  If  they  are  small  worms,  injections  of  salt 
water  or  decoction  of  quassa  chips  will  remove  them. 


HORSE     SENSE.  203 

WORM  MEDICINE. 

Turpentine i  ounce 

Raw  linseed  oil 6  ounces 

Mix  and   give   at  one  dose,   repeat  once  a   week  for  three  weeks. 

INJECTION  FOR  PIN  WORMS. 

Aloes I  ounce 

Hot  water i   quart 

Mix  by  dissolving  the  aloes  in  the  water  and  when  blood  warm  use 
as  an  injection.  This  has  an  effect  on  the  worms  and  inclines  the  horse 
to  evacuate  the  bowels. 

DRY  COUGH. 

Marsh    mallow    root 2  ounces 

Treacle 4  ounces 

Water 3  pints 

Mix  and  boil  to  one  quart  and  give  as  a  drench  at  night. 

CHRONIC  COUGH. 

Tar    water ^  pint 

Lime  water ^  pint 

Powdered  squill _ I  drachm 

Mix  and  give  this  amount  every  morning  until  better. 

BRAN  MASH. 

Bran,  J^  peck;  boiling  water  enough  to  wet  the  bran  thoroughly, 
when  worked  with  a  stick.     Cover  and  let  stand  until  blood  warm. 

COUGH  MASH. 

Ground  oil-cake   meal 2  quarts 

Sugar 2  ounces 

Boiling   water.  . ., 6  quarts 

Simmer  for  three  or  four  hours  and  give  at  night.  This  is  food, 
medicine  and  comfort  to  the  horse. 

SPRAINS  AND   OLD   SWELLINGS. 

Camphorated  spirit 2  ounces 

Spirits  ammonia 2  ounces 

Oil  turpentine i   ounce 

Laudinum lA  ounce 

Oil   oraganum i  drachm 

Mix  and  bathe  the  parts  every  day  with  good  hand  rubbing. 

SWELLED   LEGS. 

Many  horses'  legs  swell  when  confined  to  the  stable  and  the  follow- 
ing has  been  found  beneficial,  constitutionally  as  well  as  locally: 

Pulverized  asafoetida ^  ounce 

Cream   of  tartar I  ounce 

Powdered   gentian 2  ounces 

Ginger   (African) 2  ounces 

Powdered  poplar  bark 4  ounces 

Mix  thoroughly  and  divide  into  six  e(|ual  parts,  one  part  to  be  given 


204  HORSE     SENSE. 

in  the  feed  each  night,  to  regulate  the  digestion.     If  it  is  an  old  chronic 
case  ,it  may  be  followed  by  the  following: 

Powdered  goldenseal I  ounce 

Powdered  gentian I  ounce 

Powdered  balmony i  ounce 

Flaxseed  meal    V2   pound 

Mix  and  divide  into  six  parts,  giving  one  night  and  morning  in  the 
feed.  The  legs  should  be  well  hand-rubbed  daily  and  if  this  does  not 
reduce  the  swelling,  the  following  may  be  used  as  a  liniment: 

Essence    of   cedar 2  ounces 

Tincture   capsicum I  ounce 

New  rum i  pint 

Mix  and  bathe  the  legs  well  every  night,  or  for  a  little  stronger 
remedy  take: 

Spirits  ammonia ■. 2  ounces 

Olive  oil 8  ounces 

FOOT  SORE  HORSES. 

Linseed  oil Vz  pint 

Spirits   turpentine 4  ounces 

Oil  tar 6  ounces 

Oil  Oraganiim 6  ounces 

Mix  and  apply  all  over  the  feet  with  a  sponge,  often. 

FEVERED  LEGS. 

Chloride  ammonia 4  ounces 

Tincture   asafoetida 2  drachms 

Acetic  acid i  gallon 

Mix  and  use  one  ounce  to  the  quart  of  water  or  witch-hazel  for  bath- 
ing the  legs  after  a  drive. 

CRACKED  HEELS. 

Goulards'  extract J4  ounce 

Tannin • V2  ounce 

Gum    camphor J4  ounce 

Charcoal i  ounce 

Sulphur 2  ounces 

Lard Va,  pound 

Mix  and  apply  to  the   affected  parts. 

REMOVAL  OF  WARTS. 

Warts  with  a  broad  base  can  be  removed  by  taking  a  suture  needle 
and  threading  with  two  strong  ligatures.  Pass  the  needle  through  the 
base  of  the  wart  down  to  the  skin  and  tie  each  half  of  the  wart  separately 
with  a  surgeons  knot  and  cut  the  threads  close  to  the  knots.  If  the  work 
is  well  done  the  wart  will  drop  ofT  in  a  short  time.  A  wart  with  a  small 
pedicle  can  be  removed  by  a  single  ligature,  or  with  the  Ecrasuer, 

BODY  WASH. 

Aqua  ammonia 2  ounces 

Tincture  opium 2  ounces 

Tincture  cantharides 2  ounces 

Compound  soap  liniment i  pint 

Witch-hazel I  pint 

Rain-water i  pint 

Mix  and  use  ab^ut  two  ounces  of  this  to  the  pint  of  rain-water,  to  be 


HORSE     SENSE.  205 

used  after  scraping  out  the  horse  at  the  termination  of  a  very  heated 
drive.  This  should  be  used  quickly,  rubbing  into  the  hair  thoroughly 
over  the  loin,  shoulders  and  quarters  and  then  walk  the  horse  under 
blankets  or  rub  dry.  It  will  leave  the  hair  in  fine  condition  and  have 
a  tendency  to  tone  the  skin  and  take  out  the  soreness  of  the  muscles. 
This  will  make  enough  for  about  twenty-five  to  thirty  washings. 

DISINFECTANTS  FOR  WOUNDS. 

That  it  is  necessary  in  veterinary  science,  as  well  as  in  the  human. 
to  give  great  attention  to  the  disinfection  of  all  wounds,  there  is  no 
longer  any  question.  If  the  bacteria  can  be  kept  out  of  wounds  we  have 
little  or  no  trouble  in  the  healing  process.  But  once  the  wound  becomes 
thoroughly  infected,  then  the  process  of  rapid  recovery  is  arrested,  and 
sloughing  is  apt  to  follow.  A  i  per  cent  solution  of  mercuric  chlorid  is 
sufficient  to  destroy  the  bacilli,  and  will  be  found  useful  in  the  treatment 
of  almost  all  character  of  wounds  and  aid  in  rapid  healing. 

CHARCOAL  TAR. 

Charcoal  tar  is  useful  about  wounds  as  antiseptic  and  especially  in 
diseases  of  the  feet  of  animals.  # 

SUGAR  AS  AN  ANTISEPTIC. 

Powdered  sugar  (pure)  is  an  excellent  remedy  for  strongly  granu- 
lating wounds,  and  acts  as  a  dryer,  and  aids  in  forming  a  scab,  under 
which  healthy  granulations  have  a  chance  to  form,  as  well  as  acting  as 
a  barrier  against  microbes  getting  into  the  wound.  It  can  be  dusted  into 
the  wound  with  little  or  no  trouble  and  where  there  is  but  little  supura- 
tion  it  is  just  as  well  to  let  the  wound  alone. 

FENCE  WIRE  CUTS. 

Probably  no  other  one  thing  gives  the  farmers  of  the  country  more 
trouble  than  the  wounds  from  barb-wire  fences.  Almost  all  these  cuts 
are  across  the  muscular  fiber  and  it  is  (as  a  rule)  but  little  use  to  stitch 
them  up,  on  account  of  the  muscular  contractions  of  the  skin  of  the 
horse.  As  a  rule  it  is  far  better  to  let  them  alone  than  to  treat  them  in 
the  usual  way;  with  harsh  stimulating  and  destructive  preparations — 
operating  against  nature's  efiforts — tearing  down  tissue  faster  than  it  can 
be  manufactured,  annoying  the  animal  to  no  purpose,  etc.,  etc.  Pure 
charcoal  tar  around  the  wound  to  protect  the  borders,  and  powdered 
sugar  dashed  into  the  wound  (if  it  is  self  draining)  and  let  the  horse  have 
exercise,  is  as  much  as  is  beneficial.  In  fact  if  the  horse  is  at  pasture, 
and  he  is  so  he  can  get  about  at  all,  it  is  better  to  let  him  alone  entirely, 
than  to  put  him  into  a  foul  stable  and  wash  and  torment  the  horse  with 
daily  treatment.  For  twenty  years  we  have  had  from  twenty  to  over  one 
hundred  head  of  horses  running  in  pastures  surrounded  with  wire  fences, 
and  as  a  consequence  more  or  less  of  them  were  injured,  and  in  the  be- 
ginning we  gave  ourselves  any  amount  of  work  and  worry,  and  had  many 
bad  scars.  We  have  learned  to  almost  entirt-ly  let  them  alone,  and  the 
scars  now  from  wire  cuts  are  scarcely  perceptable. 


206  HORSE     SENSE. 

SCRATCHES. 

Sugar  of  lead. 2  drachms 

Sulphate   of  zinc i  drachm 

Infusion  of  oak  bark i  pint 

This  is  a  mild  and  useful  application  for  scratches  where  the  horse 
is  not  otherwise  diseased.  Cleanse  out  the  affected  parts  and  bathe 
thoroughly  with   this   wash   and  bandage.     Use  no  grease. 

ANOTHER  FOR  SCRATCHES. 

Blue  vitriol i^  ounce 

Alum 3  drachms 

Water i  pi„t 

This  is  a  strong  application  and  should  not  be  used  until  other  has 
failed,  and  the  health  of  the  horse  taken  into  consideration. 

WASH  FOR  OLD  SORES. 

Sulphate  of  copper 2  drachms 

Water i  pint 

This  is  good  for  stimulating  and  cleansing  out  old  sores  that  are 
difificult  to  heal. 

WASH   FOR  MANGE. 

Tobacco 2  ounces 

Salt    (common) '. 3  ounces 

Bar  soap 2  ounces 

First  boil  the  tobacco  in  one  quart  of  water  and  strain.  Then  add  the 
soap  cut  up  fine  and  then  the  salt.  Wash  the  affected  parts  daily  for  ten 
days.  Or  for  a  day  or  two,  and  then  in  three  or  four  days,  and  keep  it 
up  for  two  weeks.     This  will  also  kill  lice. 

GREASE  HEEL. 

Sulphate    of   copper 2  drachms 

Alum 2  drachms 

Water I  pint 

Keep  the  parts  as  clean  as  possible  and  bathe  with  this  lotion.  Avoid 
any  greasy  preparations. 

THRUSH. 

This  is  a  disease  of  the  feet,  in  the  cleft  of  the  frog.  With  gelding^^ 
and  stallions,  it  often  attacks  the  front  feet,  and  in  mares  the  hind  feet, 
from  the  moisture  and  filth  of  the  stable  generally.  It  is  detected  by 
moisture  of  the  parts,  with  an  offensive  smell.  If  there  is  much  destruc- 
tion of  the  frog,  all  the  ragged  portions  should  be  cut  away,  the  foot 
thoroughly  washed  with  tar  soap  and  warm  water,  and  the  cleft  or  cracks 
well  filled  with  dry  calomel.  If  badly  affected,  this  dressing  should  be 
applied  every  day;  but  if  only  a  mild  case,  it  may  remain  for  three  or 
four  days  without  repeating.  Sometimes  the  condition  of  the  blood  of 
the  animal  will  require  constitutional  treatment. 

Some  use  a  weak  solution  of  blue  vitrol,  others  butter  of  antimony 
and  other  salts.  A  good  compound  for  thrush  is  made  by  taking  one 
ounce  each  of  red  precipitate,  blue  vitriol  and  powdered  white  sugar 
and  half  an  ounce  of  burnt  alum,  mix  and  apply  to  the  affected  frog. 


HORSE     SENSE.  207 

BAD  THRUSH. 

Barbadocs   tar i  ounce 

Ail    of    turpentine i  ounce 

Oil   vitriol i  drachm 

Mix  the  first  two  carefully  and  then  add  the  vitriol.  The  parts  should 
be  carefully  cleansed  and  then  the  remedy  applied.  Should  be  used  about 
every  third  day  until  the  offensive  smell  has  disappeared,  and  looks  gen- 
erally better. 

FOR  SPLINT. 

Camphorated   spirits   of  wine 2  ounces 

Oil    of    turpentine     Yz  ounce 

Oil  oraganum Yi  ounce 

Mix  and  apply  to  the  afifected  parts  night  and  morning  for  a  few 
days,  or  until  a  moisture  is  noticed  and  then  wait  a  few  days  and  then 
repeat. 

FOR  ITCHING  HUMOR. 

Oil  tar 2  ounces 

Oil  turpentine 2  ounces 

Seal   oil 2  ounces 

Alix  and  apply  to  the  itching  places  once  every  second  day  for  two 
or  three  times  and  then  wash.     Repeat  if  necessary. 

LICE  ON  HORSES. 

All  young  horses  that  do  not  appear  to  be  doing  well,  even  on  good' 
feed,  should  be  carefully  examined  in  the  bright  sunlight,  by  parting  the 
hair  on  the  shoulders,  side  of  the  body,  along  the  back,  under  the  mane, 
and  about  the  root  of  the  tail,  for  the  presence  of  lice.  If  found,  take 
a  whisp  broom,  dip  it  in  an  open  dish  or  pan  containing  kerosene,  whip^ 
oflf  the  surplus  kerosene,  and  draw  or  brush  along  the  back,  shoulders- 
and  sides  of  the  horse,  without  wetting  the  hair  excessively.  Repeat 
in  two  weeks  to  kill  the  newly  hatched  crop,  as  the  first  application  wiH 
not  kill  the  nits.  In  cold  weather,  gasoline  will  answer  a  better  purpose, 
from  its  rapid  evaporation,  and  is  generally  preferable  to  kerosene  or 
insect  powder. 

COLLAR  AND  SADDLE  GALLS. 

Wash  thoroughly  with  castile  or  tar  soap  and  warm  soft  water,  rub- 
bing the  soap  well  into  the  parts  afifected,  handling  gently,  and  allow  the 
lather  to  remain  until  dry;  then  apply  any  simple  astringent  wash,  such  as 
a  decoction  of  oak  bark,  witch  hazel,  etc.  Fifteen  parts  of  glycerine  with 
one  part  of  carbolic  acid  is  also  effective.  Twenty  grains  of  sulphate 
of  zinc  in  an  ounce  of  water  is  a  very  good  application. 

CARRIAGE  TOP  DRESSING. 

Oil   sassafras Y2  ounce 

Gum    camphor Y2  ounce 

Lamp  black 1/  ounce 

Rosin xY  ounces 

Gum  shellac   3  ounces 

Wood  alcohol i       pint 

Mix  and  use  with  a  brush,  keep  well  corked  and  shake  before  using. 
The    shellac    should   be    first   cut   with    the   alcohol,    then   add   the   gum 


208  HORSE     SENSE. 

camphor,  then  the  rosin  (powdered)  and  then  the  other  ingredients. 
This  makes  an  excellent  dressing.  By  leaving  out  the  lamp  black  it  can 
be  used  for  fair  leather  or  tan  shoes. 

KEROSENE  EMULSION  FOR  HARNESS. 

Take  one  bar  of  good  strong  washing  soap,  dissolve  in  a  quart  of 
water  and  bring  to  boiling,  then  add  one  pint  of  kerosene  oil,  and  stir 
the  whole  until  it  combines  to  make  a  creamy  emulsion.  Have  a  tub  of 
warm  water,  into  which  mix  the  emulsion,  and  into  this  place  the  harness 
and  let  it  soak  some  time;  then  with  a  stiff  brush  rub  and  brush  the  straps 
thoroughly  and  they  will  come  clean  very  easily.  Let  the  leather  dry  a 
little,  until  it  seems  dry  on  the  outside,  and  then  apply  the  harness  oil; 
either  neatsfoot  or  fish  oil.  To  make  the  leather  black,  m.ix  a  little  lamp 
black  up  with  about  one-fifth  as  much  kerosene  as  harness  oil  and  mix 
together  and  then  give  the  leather  a  good  oiling.  Old  straps  which  were 
so  brittle  as  to  crack  seriously  when  bent  are  restored  to  their  original 
softness  and  pliability  by  this  treatment.  If  a  new  harness  is  treated 
twice  a  year  in  this  way  it  will  always  keep  soft  and  in  good  order.  For 
fixing  leather  carriage  tops  it  is  necessary  to  wash  over  several  times 
with  the  emulsion  to  get  it  damp  enough  to  oil;  then  apply  the  oil  as  in 
the  case  of  the  harness. 

CARE  OF  HARNESS. 

The  care  of  harness  has  a  great  deal  to  do  with  its  appearance  and 
lasting  qualities.  Before  oiling  the  harness  should  be  all  taken  apart 
and  thoroughly  washed  with  warm  water,  castile  soap  and  a  brush  or 
cloth.  When  nearly  dry  apply  "neatsfoot"  oil  with  a  sponge  or  woolen 
rag,  and  such  parts  as  are  exposed  to  the  perspiration  of  the  horse  and 
mud,  should  have  an  additional  application  of  oil.  We  should  never  hang 
the  oiled  harness  near  the  hot  stove  or  in  the  hot  sun  to  dry.  It  should 
be  kept  in  a  room  of  moderate  temperature  until  the  oil  has  effectually 
penetrated  the  leather. 

MAKE  THE  HARNESS  LOOK  LIKE  NEW  WHEN  OILING. 

To  make  the  harness  look  like  new  when  oiling  we  have  "-only  to 
clean  the  leather  thoroughly  when  washing,  and  then  add  to  one  pint  of 
"neatsfoot"  oil  a  tablespoonful  of  lamp  black  and  one  or  two  ounces  of 
melted  bees-wax  and  stir  thoroughly  when  adding  these  two  to  the  oil. 

SPONGING  THE  HARNESS. 

To  keep  the  harness  clean  and  looking  nicely,  we  have  only  to  sponge 
or  wipe  the  harness  with  castile  or  black  harness  soap  and  a  very  little 
water,  as  often  as  the  harness  is  gummed  or  dusty.     This  can  be  done 
quickly  and  it  adds  very  much  to  the  appearance  and  lasting  qualities. 
HANGING  THE  HARNESS  IN  THE  STABLE. 

The  harness  should  always  be  hung  in  such  part  of  the  stable  as  not 
to  be  exposed  to  the  fumes  of  ammonia  generated  by  the  manure.  This 
will  injure  the  leather  of  the  harness  more  than  its  every  day  use.     You 


HORSE    SENSE.  209 

will  always  know  the  effect  on  the  leather  from  ammonia  from  the  whitish 
appearance  of  the  leather  and  the  rapidity  of  the  stifeniny  of  the  leather — 
it  soon  loses  its  pliability. 

HANGING    UP    THE    HARNESS    AFTER    BEING    IN    A    RAIN 
STORM. 

Whenever  we  come  in  the  stable  after  getting  the  harness  soaking 
wet,  we  should  be  very  careful  how  we  hang  it  up  to  dry,  because  leather 
drying  out  of  form  always  weakens  it  at  the  places  where  the  leather  is 
bent  out  of  its  usual  shape.  Either  hang  the  harness  all  straightened 
out  or  lay  it  carefully  straightened  on  the  floor,  and  when  partially  dry 
sponge  it  off  with  castile  soap. 


CHAPTER  XL 

QUESTIONS  AND  ANSWERS. 

The  following  questions  and  answers  are  a  compilation  of  some  of 
the  many  questions  that  have  been  asked  and  answered  in  connection 
with  the  Farmers"  Institute  work  of  Minnesota,  by  good  veterinary 
authority,  in  relation  to  those  that  pertain  to  disease,  etc.,  the  others 
by  the  author. 

ANSWERED  BY  THE  AUTHOR. 

Would  not  the  method  of  tying  the  horse  by  the  tail  to  make  him 
pull  be  considered  inhuman  treatment  in  fly  and  mosquito  season? 

Ans.  Yes;  it  would  if  the  horse  was  expected  to  go  a  long  distance 
tied  in  that  way  by  the  tail.  But  a  few  rods  work  hitched  by  the  tail  will, 
generally,  be  sufficient  to  satisfy  him  that  he  had  rather  pull  the  load  by 
his  shoulders,  and  have  the  use  of  his  tail  for  his  protection  against  flies 
and  mosquitoes.  Be  sure,  however,  that  you  do  not  get  your  horse  angry 
and  disposed  to  "sulk"  before  you  hitch  him  by  the  tail,  or  he  may  not 
go  at  all. 

At  what  age  is  it  best  to  break  a  young  colt  to  the  halter — and  how? 

Ans.  When  ten  days  or  two  weeks  old  is  about  the  best  time  to 
begin  his  education  to  the  halter,  and  the  best  method  is  fully  represented 
in  connection  with  cut  No.  29. 

What  age  is  best  to  harness  and  drive  the  colt? 

Ans.  This  is  also  well  represented  and  illustrated  in  cuts  No.  30 
and  31. 

How  would  you  handle  all  vicious  and  tricky  horses? 

Ans.  To  answer  this  question  satisfactorily  would  require  more 
time  and  space  than  is  allowed  here,  and  we  would  refer  all  those  in- 
terested to  chaptersXXXIII  and  XXXIV. 

How  do  you  account  for  so  many  of  our  horses  of  the  present  day 
having  bad  legs? 

Ans.  The  principle  cause  is  the  use  of  stallions  and  mares  for  breed- 
ing purposes  that  have  defective  legs.  Stallions  have  the  power  to  trans- 
mit their  defects  as  well  as  mares  (if  not  more)  and  when  both  are  de- 
fective in  like  manner  we  could  not  reasonably  expect  perfect  foals. 
Nature  abhors  incongruities — the  perfect  cannot  be  produced  from  the 
inherited  imperfect. 

Have  you  any  method  that  you  consider  good  for  the  care  and 
wintering  of  stallions? 

Ans.  Yes;  you  will  find  this  subject  considered  at  length  in  chap- 
ter VIII. 


HORSE     SENSE.  211 

What  do  you  consider  the  best  treatment  for  "scours"  in  a  young 
colt    without    giving    much    medicine? 

Ans.  In  our  long  experience  with  many  foals  every  spring  we  have 
found  that  proper  care  of  the  dam  to  be  the  best  treatment  for  "scours." 
The  general  cause  of  this  trouble  is  a  too  copious  flow  of  milk,  usually 
from  the  mare  drinking  large  quantities  of  water,  which  is  easily  remedied 
by  giving  only  small  draughts  of  water  at  a  tirne  and  cutting  down  on 
the  grain  ration  for  a  short  time,  and  the  "scours"  soon  disappear.  But 
as  long  as  the  mare  drinks  large  quantities  of  water  and  is  richly  fed,  the 
chances  are  that  the  colt  will  not  improve  in  condition.  A  dose  of  castor 
oil  may  be  given  to  the  colt. 

What  is  the  proper  care  of  the  colt's  feet  before  he  reaches  the  age 
for  shoeing,  for  the  best  results  for  the  future  of  the  horse? 

Ans.  Be  sure  and  trim  the  feet  often  and  keep  them  as  nearly  level 
as  possible  all  around,  so  as  not  to  have  the  bearing  unequal  on  the 
sides,  not  too  long  at  the  toe,  or  the  heels  so  high  as  not  to  get  good 
"frog"  pressure,  is  the  surest  method  of  keeping  the  feet  in  proper  shape 
for  the  best  results  for  the  future  horse. 

Do  you  approve  of  the  blacksmith  cutting  away  the  "sole"  and  "bars" 
of  the  horse's  feet  preparatory  to  shoeing? 

Ans.  No,  indeed;  the  thinner  the  "sole"  is  pared  and  the  more  the 
"bars"  are  cut  away,  the  sooner  the  horse  will  sufifer  from  dryness  of  the 
feet  and  consequent  contraction,  bruises,  corns,  etc. 

Is  it  a  good  practice  to  rasp  away  the  outside  horn  of  the  horse's 
foot  up  as  high  as  the  nails  clinch  to  make  a  nice,  smooth  job  in  shoeing? 

Ans.  The  outside  glossy  coating  of  the  horse's  foot  is  nature's  pro- 
tection for  the  preservation  of  the  moisture  of  the  foot,  and  the  more 
rasping  is  done  the  more  exposure,  and  consequently  the  greater  danger 
of  drying  and  shrinking  up  of  the  horse's  feet.  Elasticity  is  needed  in  the 
feet  as  well  as  other  parts  of  the  body,  but  not  to  the  same  degree,  yet 
if  the  moisture  of  the  feet  is  allowed  to  escape  by  rasping  and  cutting 
at  the  feet  unnecessarily,  the  more  danger  there  is  to  the  inside  structures 
being  injured.  Keep  the  feet  as  nearly  natural  as  possible  in  conformation, 
■with  good,  strong  "bars,"  "soles"  and  elastic  "frog"  and  the  liability  to 
lameness  will  be  very  much  lessened. 

What  is  the  relative  value  of  a  springy  or  oblique  "pastern"  over 
a  straight  or  upright  "pastern?" 

Ans.  That  would  depend  somewhat  on  the  usage  of  the  horse. 
AVhile  a  springy  "pastern"  is  always  preferable  to  an  upright  one,  the 
road  horse  must  have  springy  "pasterns"  or  soon  go  sore  (unless  he  is 
a  very  low  gaited  horse).  More  lameness  results  from  straight  inelastic 
"pasterns"  than  any  other  cause  (excepting  accidents).  The  heavier  the 
road  horse  with  upright  "pasterns"  the  sooner  and  more  surely  will  he 
sufifer. 

Do  you  think  the  rigid  use  of  a  "bitting  harness"  good  for  colts  be- 
fore they  go  into  harness  practice? 

Ans.  No:  it  too  often  "sours"  the  disposition,  cramps  the  muscles 
of  the  neck,  injures  the  mouth   and  frequently  spoils  an  otherwise  good 


212  HORSE     SENSE. 

and  useful  horse.  We  have  no  objection  to  putting  a  bit  into  the  colt's 
mouth,  but  to  check  his  head  up  high  and  fasten  the  side  straps  rigidly 
is  certainly  a  pernicious  practice.  If  the  "bitting  harness"  is  to  be  used 
let  the  bit  loosely  in  the  mouth  and  check  and  side  straps  "slack." 

What  remedy  would  you  recommend  for  pin  worms  in  horses  and 
colts? 

Ans.  Injections  of  aloes  in  solution,  one  ounce  of  aloes  to  a  gallon 
of  water,  once  a  week  for  two  weeks. 

How  is  wheat  for  feed  for  horses? 

Ans.     Very  good,  if  fed  ground;  mixed  with  ground  oats  it  is  better. 

How  shall  I  prevent  a  horse  from  rolling  over  in  the  stall  and  getting 
cast  so  he  cannot  get  up? 

Ans.  Tie  him  so  short  that  he  cannot  lay  his  head  fiat  on  the  floor 
of  his  stall,  or  fasten  a  pully  in  the  ceiling  with  weight  that  will  do  the 
same. 

What  good  is  a  check-rein  and  blinders? 

Ans.  The  check-rein  is  really  of  no  value  further  than  to  prevent 
the  horse  from  getting  his  head  to  the  ground  when  stopped,  or  tied  to 
post,  or  other  fastening;  and  sometimes  to  prevent  him  being  too  playful 
when  first  starting  out.  The  blinders  are  useful  in  driving  "shirky," 
tricky  horses,  or  where  one  is  free  and  the  other  lazy  and  watching  the 
driver. 

Why  do  people  use  the  cruel  overhead  check-rein  tight  for  ordinary 
driving? 

Ans.  Because  it  is  the  fashion,  and  the  drivers  or  owners  do  not 
f  realize  how  much  discomfort  they  are  giving  their  mute  friends  by  its 
use.  If  they  could  fully  understand  how  much  suffering  our  horses  were 
enduring  for  our  comfort  and  pleasure,  the  overhead  check-rein  would 
never  be  used  tight — especially  on  straight-shouldered  horses — or  long 
at  a  time,  in  any  case,  or  never  when  left  to  stand  or  hitched  to  the 
post.  Always  lengthen  out  the  overhead  check  for  a  long  drive  and 
whenever  stopped. 

Is  there  any  way  to  prevent  a  biting  horse  from  biting? 

Ans.  We  think  so;  by  the  use  of  the  safety  bridle  represented  in  this 
book,  and  by  feeding  him  from  the  hand  what  he  most  relishes,  making 
him  first  believe  that  we  are  not  afraid  of  him,  by  the  safety  bridle,  and,, 
also,  that  we  are  his  best  friend.  Don't  hurt  him  when  in  immediate 
contact  with  him;  but,  if  he  attempts  to  bite,  pull  on  the  rope,  and  he 
bites  himself  instead  of  the  object  aimed  at,  and,  we  assure  you,  he  will 
soon  comprehend  the  situation. 

How  do  you  prevent  a  horse  from  crowding  his  keeper  in  the  stall? 

Ans.     By  the  means  shown  in  chapter  XXX,  cuts  Nos.  52  and  53. 

How  do  you  make  a  horse  hold  up  his  head? 

Ans.  If  the  horse  has  a  sloping  shoulder,  he  will  hold  his  head  well 
up,  naturally,  if  well  fed.  If  his  shoulder  is  straight,  and  his  neck  set 
low,  it  is  very  hard  for  him  to  hold  his  head  high.  By  the  use  of  the 
check-rein,  the  head  can  be  gradually  raised,  by  degrees,  without  very 
great  inconvenience  to  the  horse,  and.  in  time,  his  style  of  carriage  can 


HORSE    sp:nse.  213 

be  improved.  But  too  many  of  our  would-be  useful  horses  have  been 
"soured,"  made  balky,  contracting  the  pernicious  habit  of  pulling  on  the 
bit.  and  many  other  faults,  by  tiie  use  and  abuse  of  the  check-rein  (of 
any  character)  in  trying  to  make  high-headed  horses  of  them  from  the 
beginning  of  their  harness  experience.  Natural  style  in  harness  is 
nature's  graceful  curves,  but  man's  devices  for  the  purpose  often  fall  far 
short  of  the  object  attained. 

How  can  I  prevent  a  horse  from  "bucking"  when  he  is  determined  to 
"buck"  me  off? 

Ans.  The  use  of  the  persuader,  is  as  applicable  in  saddle  as  harness 
work,  and  can  be  handled  from  the  back  of  the  horse  in  taking  up  one 
front  foot,  as  when  behind  him;  and  the  horse  makes  a  "sorry"  job  of 
bucking  on  three  legs.  Besides,  he  can  be  given  the  use  of  all  his  legs 
at  any  instant,  or  deprived,  as  may  be  desired. 

What  can  I  do  to  teach  a  horse  to  back? 

Ans.     This  is  fully  explained  at  Cut.  No.  63. 

You  spoke  here  of  how  to  hitch  a  team  on  the  prairie  so  they  could 
feed  and  could  be  found  near  where  they  were  left  without  a  post  or 
tether.     How  is  it  done? 

Ans.     This  is  explained  and  illustrated  in  chapter  XXX H,  cut  No.  70. 

How  shall  I  manage  a  horse  that  is  troublesome  to  shoe? 

Ans.     This  is  represented  and  shown  in  chapter  XXXII,  cut  No.  "jz. 

How  can   I  break  my  horse  from  pulling  on  the  halter? 

Ans.     See  chapter  XXX,  cuts  Nos.  60  and  61. 

What  do  you  consider  the  best  methods  of  handling  the  "Broncho," 
from  the  beginning,  for  a  useful  and  safe  horse? 

Ans.  We  devoted  considerable  space  to  this  subject,  under  the  head- 
ing of  "Controlling  the  Actions  of  the  Horse  by  His  Tail,"  chapter 
XXXI.  By  reading  this  matter  carefully,  and  complying  with  the  de- 
tails, we  believe  you  will  succeed  beyond  your  expectations;  but  don't 
hurt  him,  if  possible,  under  any  circumstances,  and  remember  that  the 
medium  of  the  stomach  is  the  most  direct  route  to  his  affections. 

What  is  the  best  method  of  separating  colts,  at  weaning  time,  from 
their  dams? 

Ans.  As  we  have  often  said  before,  we  prefer  putting  two  together 
in  box  stalls,  for  company  for  each  other,  but,  if  we  had  but  one,  we 
would  prefer  to  wean  it  beside  the  dam,  by  tying  it  in  such  a  manner  that 
it  could  not  get  its  mother's  milk. 

What  is  the  best   feed  for  colts  the  first  winter? 

Ans.  We  prefer  to  commence  with  weaning  on  skimmed  cow's  milk 
(the  separator  preferred),  by  letting  them  go  from  eight  to  twelve  hours 
after  taking  from  the  dam,  before  offering  them  anything;  then  approach 
them  with  a  little  warm  sweetened  skim-milk  in  a  shallow  pan,  and  watch 
the  opportunity  to  suddenly  lift  the  pan,  so  as  to  immerse  the  colt's  nose 
into  the  milk,  and  take  it  away,  letting  the  colt  have  a  chance  to  taste 
the  milk  on  its  lips,  when  it  may  be  repeated,  and,  as  the  colt  is  thirsty, 
it  will  generally  take  to  drinking,  when  the  trouble,  ever  after,  is  at  an 
end.     In  a  few  days  we  make  an  addition  to  its  ration  of  milk.     We  give 


214  HORSE    SENSK. 

a  little  oil  meal,  and  begin  feeding  a  very  little  ground  oats  and  bran, 
which  we  increase  in  quantity  as  its  appetite  craves,  and  the  amount  of 
exercise  will  justify.  It  is  not  good  to  feed  colts  all  they  will  often  eat, 
unless  they  have  the  liberty  to  take  plenty  of  exercise.  Well  cured  c'.over 
hay  is,  also,  an  excellent  feed  for  colts  the  first  winter. 

What  do  you  think  of  wild  hay  as  feed  for  horses? 

Ans.  Together  with  a  good  grain  ration,  wild  hay,  to  the  amount 
of  ten  to  fifteen  pounds  per  day,  we  regard  as  excellent  for  horses  at 
work.  Too  many  farmers  feed  far  more  hay  than  is  good  for  horses. 
Hay,  like  grain,  should  be  fed  as  a  ration,  eaten  up  clean,  and  then  wait 
until  the  next  meal. 

Is  ground  barley   good  horse   feed? 

Ans.  Ground  barley  is  much  like  corn  in  quality,  but  stock  of  all 
kinds  become  tired  of  it  as  a  continuous  feed.  Horses,  like  people,  like 
variety;  and  should  have  it. 

Does  it  hurt  a  horse  to  give  him  water  when  he  is  warm  if  we  do 
rot  let  him  stand? 

Ans.  No;  unless  he  is  very  thirsty,  and  it  is  soon  after  he  has  had 
his  ration  of  feed;  and  then  it  is  more  apt  to  produce  colic  than  affect 
him  otherwise. 

How  much  water  should  a  horse   have  at  one  time? 

Ans.  As  the  capacity  of  the  horse's  stomach  is  only  about  three 
and  one-half  gallons,  it  is  not  best  to  give  more  than  that  amount  at  any 
one  time.  We  always  prefer  to  water  horses  before  feeding,  and  then 
the  water  will  pass  along  into  the  bowels  when  the  grain  ration  is  fed; 
whereas,  if  he  is  fed  before  water  is  given,  the  food  is  forced  into  the 
bowels  before  the  stomach  has  performed  its  part  of  the  digestion,  and 
derangement  is  too  apt  to  follow. 

Can  a  farmer  raise  colts  and  profit  by  them  at  the  present  prices? 

Ans.  That  depends  largely  on  the  character  of  colts  to  be  raised. 
If  the  farmer  has  the  breeding  stock  to  produce  first-class  horses  of  ai:y 
of  the  three  classes,  viz.,  draught,  carriage  or  road  horses,  we  say  he  can, 
provided  he  gives  them  the  same  care  and  attention  that  is  required  to 
make  a  success  in  any  other  department  of  farming. 

What  is  the  best  thing  to  do  with  a  horse  easily  frightened? 

Ans.  This  is  usually  due  to  an  extreme  nervous  irritability,  to  a  lack 
of  intelligence,  harsh  treatment  or  defective  eyes.  The  only  available 
treatment  is  kind,  uniform  treatment;  usually  a  mild  bit,  properly  ad- 
justed harness,  sometimes  open  bridle  works  better,  and  on  some  horses 
a  blind  bridle  is  more  satisfactory.  Little  can  be  done  if  the  eyes  are 
defective. 


CHAPTER  XLI. 

ANSWERED   BY   DR.   M.    H.    REYNOLDS.   STATE   VETERINA- 
RIAN. ST.  ANTHONY  PARK,  MINN. 

Question,  (i)  What  is  a  good  grain  for  a  hard-working  horse  to 
keep  him  in  marketable  condition?  (2)  For  an  idle  horse?  (3)  What 
is  the  best  kind  of  hay  for  horses?  (4)  Can  sweeny  be  cured,  and  if  so, 
how?  A.  (i)  For  each  i,coo  pounds  live  weight,  fifteen  pounds  oats, 
twelve  pounds  hay,  clover  or  timothy,  four  to  six  pounds  of  bran,  if  con- 
venient, for  twenty-four  hours.  Allow  two  pounds  of  water  for  each 
pound  of  dry  feed.  (2)  Fifteen  pounds  of  hay,  with  half  the  grain  if  the 
horse  is  already  fat.  (3)  Clover  or  timothy.  (4)  Yes.  usually,  if  the 
horse  is  not  lame,  by  persistent  irritation,  e.  g.,  severe  and  repeated  blis- 
ters, setons  or  hand  rubbing,  with  exercise. 

Question.  What  can  I  do  for  a  .four-year-old  colt  which  got  kicked 
on  the  hock-cap,  and  an  enlargement  remains  a  month  later?  A.  Blis- 
ter with  red  iodide  of  mercury,  one  part,  and  lard  or  cosmoline,  six  parts, 
well  mixed.  Repeat  in  four  weeks  if  necessary.  The  prospect  for  satis-- 
factory  results  is  fair,  but  not  sure.  Prevent  the  horse  from  biting  the 
part  while  the  blister  is  smarting. 

Question.  W'hat  causes  a  number  of  young  colts  to  die  within  a  few 
days  after  birth?  They  seem  to  be  lacking  in  vitality  from  the  moment 
of  birth.  A.  The  fault  may  be  with  the  sire,  or  it  may  be  with  the  dam. 
She  may  be  fat  and  soft,  or  poor  and  weak.  The  trouble  may  be  with 
the  mother's  food,  and  the  cause  may  lie  with  the  undetermined  cause  of 
epidemic  abortions.  Only  a  careful  examintion  will  show  the  cause  in 
any  given  case. 

Question.  Can  benzine  or  gacoline  be  used  with  safety  to  kill  lice 
on  horses,  and  how?  A.  Yes.  Put  a  little  on  a  whisk  broom,  or  any 
brush,  and  brush  through  the  hair. 

Question.  How  would  you  treat  thrush  in  horses'  feet?  A.  Cut 
off  all  the  diseased  frog,  scrape  out  the  cleft  and  crevices  with  a  hoof 
knife,  and  pour  a  little  95  per  cent  carbolic  acid  over  the  diseased  frog 
every  morning  after  cleaning  out.     Avoid  filthy  stables. 

Question.  What  is  the  cause  of  heaves  in  horses,  and  how  can  they 
be  cured?  A.  Heaves  are  caused  by  overfeeding  in  coarse,  dusty  foods. 
There  is  no  hope  for  advanced  cases.  In  early  stages  turn  out  to  grass 
for  five  or  six  months;  afterwards  feed  but  little  hay.  Sprinkle  both  hay 
and  grain  if  dusty. 

Question.  Is  there  any  cure  for  poll  evil?  A.  Yes,  but  these  cases 
usually  require  continued  treatment  by  a  skillful  veterinarian. 


216  HORSE     SENSE. 

Question.  How  can  a  spavin  or  ringbone  be  cured?  A.  The  lame- 
ness may  usually  be  cured  by  repeated  blisters  or  well-done  firing;  but 
the  enlargement  will  remain  in  spite  of  any  satisfactory  treatment  that 
has  yet  been  devised. 

Question.  What  is  good  for  colts  troubled  with  lice?  A.  Corn, 
oats,  bran  and  hay,  aided  by  gasoline  used  carefully  as  in  above.  Kero- 
sene and  soft  soap  emulsion,  or  Persian  insect  powder  dusted  in  the  hair 
on  neck,   withers  and  back. 

Question.  Do  you  recommend  feeding  good  oat  straw  to  idle 
horses?  A.  Yes;  clean  oat  straw  makes  a  very  good  coarse  food  for 
horses,  whether  working  or  idle.  When  working,  the  horse  needs  a  little 
more  grain  than  when  fed  on  clover  and  timothy  hay. 

Question.  Do  wolf  teeth  make  horses  blind?  A.  No.  Leave  them 
alone. 

Question.  What  is  the  cause  and  proper  treatment  of  colic?  A. 
Anything  that  interferes  with  the  digestive  processes,  in  the  whole  or 
any  portion  of  the  alimentary  canal,  may  cause  an  attack  of  colic,  e.  g., 
sudden  changes  from  dry  to  green  food  or  the  reverse,  watering  after 
eating  grain,  finely,  ground  corn  meal,  unmixed,  excessive  feeding  of 
hay,  full  drink  of  very  cold  water  when  horse  is  warm,  or  feeding  when 
horse  is  very  tired,  and  some  cases  are  probably  due  to  the  presence  of 
parasitic  worms  in  certain  arteries  that  furnish  blood  to  the  intestines. 

Question.  I  have  a  three-year-old  colt  which  has  a  whitish  colora- 
tion or  change  in  the  pupil  of  the  eye  with  the  full  of  the  moon,  and  then 
goes  blind.  About  five  days  later  the  spot  leaves  and  the  eyesight  re- 
turns. What  is  the  trouble?  A.  This  is  evidently  a  case  of  periodic 
ophthalmia,  and  the  patient  will  probably  go  blind.  Treatment  would 
not  be  apt  to  give  good  satisfaction. 

Question.  Is  cob  meal  ground  with  oats  good  feed  for  horses?  A. 
Yes,  but  the  cob  should  be  ground  fine — not  merely  crushed. 

Question.  How  is  millet,  for  feed,  for  working  horses,  when  ground 
and  mixed  with  bran?  A.  There  is  some  dispute  among  veterinarians 
and  feeders,  over  this  point;  but  the  majority  of  those  who  have  studied 
the  matter  and  had  large  experience  in  feeding  millet  agree  that  it  is  a 
safe  and  valuable  food  for  horses  if  cut  early. 

Question,  (i)  Is  barley  good  feed  for  growing  colts?  (2)  How 
about  barley  straw  for  horses?  A.  (i)  Barley  is  nearly  equal  to  corn 
for  >  horse-feed,  but  it  should  be  crushed.  {2)  Barley  straw  is  less 
nutritious  than  oat  straw,  and  the  beards  cause  a  great  deal  of  trouble 
to  horses  mouths. 

Question.  Which  would  you  feed  first  to  horses — hay  or  grain?  A. 
The  ideal  way  to  feed  a  horse  is  first  water,  second  hay,  third  grain,  but 
the  difference  between  this  and  grain  first  and  hay  second,  as  horses 
usually  eat,  is  not  very  decided.  A  few  horses  will  eat  grain  and  hay 
together,  which  is  possibly  better  still.  The  old  street  car  system  of  feed- 
ing horses,  by  cutting  hay  or  straw,  wetting  it,  and  mixing  the  ground 
grain,  was  a  very  safe  and  very  economical  system  of  feeding  horses  on 


HORSE     SENSE.  217 

a  large  scale.  By  this  system  the  Ium-sc  was  compelled  to  eat  the  hay 
and  grain  together. 

Question.  How  can  I  dispose  of  bleeding  tumor  on  the  joint  oi  the 
hind  foot  near  the  fetlock?  A.  Touch  the  bleeding  surface  with  the 
point  of  a  red  hot  iron,  in  case  it  does  not  come  nearer  than  within  an 
inch  of  the  hoof,  otherwise  dust  powdered  iron  sulphate  over  the  surface. 

Question.  What  would  you  do  with  a  horse  that  has  lampers,  and 
what  is  the  cause  of  the  same?  A.  Lampers  is  to  be  regarded  frequently 
merely  as  a  symptom  of  disease  rather  than  in  itself  as  a  diseased  con- 
dition. It  may  be  caused  by  anything  that  would  irritate  the  mucous 
membrane  of  the  mouth,  changes  in  the  teeth,  but  more  often  by  dis- 
turbance in  the  stomach  and  intestines.  The  only  treatment  that  is  ad- 
visable is  scarifying  the  mucous  membrane  over  the  swoolen  parts  with 
a  sharp  pen  knife,  being  careful  not  to  cut  too  deep  for  serious  bleeding 
may  follow  a  deep  cut  at  a  certain  place. 

Question.  Are  the  so-called  condition  powders,  which  are  offered 
by  dealers,  of  any  real  value  to  the  horse  when  fed?  A.  I  have  very 
little  confidence  in  patent  medicines  of  any  kind,  especially  the  average 
condition  powders  which  we  find  on  the  market  for  stock. 

Question.  Is  it  hurtful  to  water  a  horse  while  warm?  A.  It  all 
depends  on  how  cold  the  water  and  how  much  of  it.  I  think  horses  never 
get  so  hot  that  a  little  cold  water  will  injure  them.  How  inuch  they 
shall  have  depends  on  how  hot  the  horse  and  how  cold  the  water. 

Question.  Can  ringbones  or  spavins  be  taken  off  without  firing 
or  blistering  or  injury  to  the  horse?     A.     I  think  not. 

Question.  What  shall  I  do  for  a  horse  that  has  bone  spavin  just 
forming?  A.  Blister  over  the  spavin  with  tincture  or  cantharidcs.  or 
have  him  fired  by  a  competent  veterinarian. 

Question.  Will  all  horses  of  the  same  live  weight  do  equally  well  on 
the  same  amount  of  food?  A.  Certainly  not.  Some  horses  require 
much  more  food  for  the  same  amount  of  work  than  others  of  similar 
weight. 

Question.  Is  it  economy  to  cook  the  food  for  horses?  A.  I  think 
not,  except  it  be  for  an  old  family  pet  with  poor  teeth. 

Question.  How  often  shall  I  feed  my  horse  that  is  a  hard  worker? 
A.     Three  times  a  day  or  five  times  a  day  if  it  can  be  done. 

Question.  How  should  horses  for  farm  work  be  fed?  A.  Water 
first,  always.  Grain  and  hay  next  and  together.  Only  so  much  hay 
as  a  horse  will  clean  up  in  a  reasonable  time.  If  the  hay  is  dusty  it  should 
be  sprinkled.  A  reasonable  amount  of  grain,  according  to  the  size  of 
the  horse  and  the  amount  of  work,  should  be  given. 

Question.  Is  there  any  harm  in  feeding  horses  a  quantity  of  salt  ta 
last  them  a  week?  A.  No  especial  harm,  but  a  decidedly  better  way  is- 
to  keep  it  before  them  all  the  time. 

Question.  What  shall  I  do  for  a  horse  that  has  scratches,  or  grease 
heel  of  three  years'  standing?     A.     Take  him  to  a  veterinarian. 

Question.     Would  you   consider   wheat   good  to   feed   a   marc   with 


218  HORSE     SENSE. 

foal?  A,  A  small  amount  of  wheat  crushed,  or  coarsely  ground,  may 
be  a  valuable  addition  to  her  diet. 

Question.  What  is  the  best  bit  for  a  hard-mouthed  horse?  A. 
Frequently  a  very  easy  bit  and  uniformly  kind  treatment  will  work 
wonders  for  a  puller.  There  are  quite  a  number  of  severe  bits  which 
commend  themselves  for  certain  horses,  such  as  the  Jay  Eye  See  bit,  Suc- 
cess, Imperial  and  Rockwell;  anything  but  the  double  jointed,  twisted 
wire  bit. 

Question.  What  shall  I  do  to  get  the  lice  off  a  colt?  A.  In  cold 
weather  use  pyrethreum  or  Persian  insect  powder  along  the  neck  and 
back.  Repeat  every  six  days  till  the  lice  disappear.  In  warm  weather 
us  kerosene  emulsion  made  in  the  following  proportions,  more  or  less  as 
needed:  One  gallon  of  water,  one  pound  laundry  soap;  boil  till  dis- 
solved. Add,  while  hot  and  away  from  the  lire,  two  gallons  kerosene. 
For  use,  take  one  pint  of  this  emulsion  for  three  gallons  of  cold  water. 
Wash  colt  thoroughly  with  this  diluted  mixture;  or  preferably  gasoline. 

Question.  What  should  be  done  in  a  case  of  sore  eyes  in  a  horse  ap- 
pearing at  different  intervals;  one  sore  one  week,  and  heal,  and  then  the 
other  sore?  A.  What  is  the  cause?  A.  I  cannot  tell.  This  may  be 
either  periodical  ophthalmia  (moon  blindness)  or  a  symptom  of  influenza. 
The  former  is  probably  incurable  and  usually  results  in  blindness.  The 
latter  usually  disappears  under  treatment. 

Question.  My  colts  rub  their  tails.  What  causes  it?  A.  Either 
lice  at  the  root  of  the  tail  or  pin  worms  in  the  rectum.  For  the  former, 
use  kerosene  emulsion.  If  due  to  the  latter,  give  injection  of  quassia 
lea,  followed  by  a  dose  of  raw  linseed  oil;  enough  to  physic. 

Question.  Will  a  horse  that  has  been  paralyzed  on  one  side  ever 
be  able  to  work  again?  A.  He  may  or  he  may  not.  It  depends  on  the 
location   and   extent  of  the   disease. 

Question.  What  would  you  do  for  collar  galls?  A.  Relieve  from 
work  if  possible.  Otherwise  remove  pressure  from  sore  place  by  ad- 
justing sweat  pad  or  collar.  Dust  over  the  raw  surface  the  following 
mixture:     Boracic  acid,  iodiforni  and  tannic  acid;  equal  part  by  weight. 

Question.  Do  you  approve  of  allowing  colts  the  first  winter  to  have 
oats  to  eat  at  their  will,  or  feed  what  they  will  eat  up  clean  three  times 
a  day?     A.     I  think  the  latter  is  the  proper  way  to  feed  any  horse. 

Question.  How  would  yoti  treat  a  horse  that  has  mange?  "A. 
Scrub  the  diseased  surface  with  brush,  soap  and  warm,  soft  water  until 
all  the  scaly  material  is  removed.  Then  use  a  lotion  made  in  the  follow- 
ing proportions:  Water,  one  quart;  carbolic  acid,  (95  per  cent)  one 
ounce;  acetic  acid  (glacial),  two  ounces.  Apply  every  third  day  until 
cured,  or  skin  becomes  very  sore.  In  the  latter  case  stop  treatment  for 
a  few  days,  then  begin  again. 

Question.  What  is  the  cause  of  lameness  in  the  forelegs  of  a  horse 
confined  in  the  stable  in  the  winter  time?  A.  It  may  be  due  to  any  one 
of  several  causes,  more  frequently,  perhaps,  to  contracted  hoof  caused 
by  horses  standing  on  dry  floor,  either  shod  with  high  toe  and  heel  calks 
or  barefoot,  and  the  wall  of  the  hoof  allowed  to  grow  down  till  frog  does 


HORSE     SENSE.  219 

not  touch  the  lloor.  Remove  the  shoes  or  trim  down  the  hoof  until  the 
frog  rests  upon  the  Hoor;  that  is,  the  frog  surface  must  be  below  the  level 
of  the  sole.  At  the  same  time  use  some  oil  or  hoof  ointment  to  soften  the 
hoof. 

Question.  What  makes  horses  that  are  well  fed  gnaw  feed-boxes, 
mangers  and  everything  around  them?  Is  there  any  help  for  it?  A. 
They  either  get  too  much  grain  or  too  little  coarse  food,  and  sometimes 
horses  gnaw  the  mangers  and  feed-boxes  because  they  do  not  get 
sufificient  exercise  and  have  little  better  to  do.  Tack  sheep  skin  over  the 
manger  with  wool  on,  or  cover  with  tin. 

Question.  Will  a  horse  do  well  on  good  wheat  and  oat  straw,  half 
and  half?  How  much  grain  should  he  have  with  it  to  balance  it?  How 
much  at  a  meal?  The  grains  are  oats  or  corn.  Which  is  best?  A.  I 
do  not  like  wheat  straw  for  horses,  except  it  be  cut  quite  green.  Oat 
straw,  if  it  be  clean  and  bright,  is  much  better.  About  the  same  propor- 
tion as  with  prairie  hay,  more  or  less,  in  quantity,  according  to  the  size 
of  the  horse  and  kind  of  work.  Both  are  good.  Clean,  heavy  oats  is 
probably  the  best  single  grain  for  horses,  although  I  think  corn  is  fre- 
quently underrated  by  feeders. 

Question.  A  horse  has  been  troubled  for  one  year  with  white,  round 
worms  about  two  inches  long.  Have  tried  several  remedies.  Can  you 
give  me  a  sure  one?  A.  First,  give  him  a  pint  and  a  half  to  a  quart  of 
raw  linseed  oil.  Allow  very  little  or  no  hay  during  the  period  of  treat- 
ment. Give  daily,  two  ounces  turpentine  in  one  pint  raw  linseed  oil 
for  four  days.  Close  treatment,  with  a  rather  severe  physic,  as  for  ex- 
ample, the  first  dose  of  linseed  oil,  unless  very  free  action  has  already 
been  established  by  the  continued  doses  of  linseed  oil,  in  which  case  the 
cleansing  dose  is  unnecessary.  The  essential  point  in  this  treatment  is. 
first,  to  thoroughly  empty  the  bowels  and  then  keep  them  from  filling  up 
by  allowing  little  or  no  hay;  and,  lastly,  the  continued  treatment  by 
turpentine.  The  only  satisfactory  way  to  treat  these  parisites  is  by  con- 
tinued treatment.  One  or  two  doses  of  any  single  medicine  is  not  usually 
satisfactory. 


CHAPTER  XLII. 

ANSWERED    BY    DR.    S.    D.    BRLMHALL,    ASSISTANT    STATE 
VETERINARIAN.   MINNEPOLIS,   MINN. 

Question.  Have  a  horse  that  is  bothered  with  contracted  hoof?  A. 
Contraction  of  the  foot  (hoof  bound)  is  the  more  or  less  marked  con- 
traction of  the  posterior  parts  of  the  foot.  There  are  two  kinds,  true  and 
false.  In  true  contraction,  the  quai^ters,  as  well  as  the  heels,  are  high  and 
narrow — often  called  mule  foot.  As  a  consequence  of  the  compression 
caused  by  the  contracted  heels  and  quarters,  the  sole  becomes  more 
concave  and  the  frog,  in  a  great  measure,  becomes  shrunken.  The  causes 
are  numerous,  but  all  can  be  traced  to  one  of  two  factors — drying  of  the 
horn,  or  some  interference  with  its  normal  elasticity. 

Treatment:  Keep  the  heels  and  quarters  pared  down  so  that  there" 
will  be  a  good  frog  pressure  at  all  times,  and  keep  the  hoof  moist;  also 
prevent  drying  out  by  the  use  of  vaseline.  If  the  contraction  is  very 
great,  and  the  horse  is  lame,  it  would  be  well  to  thin  the  wall  at  heels 
and  quarters  to  allow  them  to  expand  more  readily. 

Question.  What  treatment  would  you  recommend  for  a  horse  that 
has  Sweeney  in  both  shoulders  slightly,  caused  by  too  large  a  collar,  more 
than  a  year  ago?  A.  Sweeney  is  often  due  to  prolonged  lameness  of  the 
feet.  If  the  horse  is  lame  try  to  determine  the  cause.  A  slight  shrink- 
ing of  the  shoulder  muscles  seldom  afifects  the  usefulness  of  the  animal. 
Medical  treatment  is  rarely  satisfactory  in  cases  of  so  long  standing. 

Question.  How  would  you  treat  a  ringbone  that  has  been  on  about 
six  months,  swollen  in  the  first  joint  of  the  hind  foot?  A.  Blister 
thoroughly  by  rubbing  in  the  following  ointment  every  ten  days:  Tie  the 
horse  so  that  he  cannot  get  his  mouth  to  the  blister:  Red  iodide  of 
mercury,  one  dram;  pulverized  cantharis,  one  drachm;  vaseline,  six 
drachms. 

Question.  What  would  you  do  for  a  mare  that  has  heaves?  A. 
Feed  sparingly  of  coarse  feed  and  be  sure  that  all  feed  is  clean,  sweet 
and  free  from  dust.  Moistening  the  feed  with  lime  water  is  often  of 
advantage.  Never  feed  hay  which  has  not  been  perfectly  cured.  Badly 
cured  hay  will  irritate  the  stomach  and  the  nerve  which  supplies  the  lungs 
and  stomach,  thus  producing  a  cough,  which,  if  continued,  will  cause 
heaves. 

Question.  Describe  glanders.  A.  Glanders  and  farcy  are  one  and 
the  same  disease.  The  term  farcy  has  been  applied  to  the  disease  when 
th  principle  manifestation  is  an  outbreak  of  the  sores  on  the  skin  of  the 


HORSE     SENSE.  221 

animal,  but  internal  lesions  always  exist  and  can  be  seen  on  post  mortem. 
Glanders  is  a  contagious  constitutional  disease  of  the  horse,  ass  and  mule, 
and  is  readily  communicable  to  man,  sheep,  goats,  the  dog,  the  cat,  the 
rabbit  and  guinea  pig.  It  runs  a  variable  course,  lasting  from  a  few 
weeks  to  several  years.  It  is  subject  to  various  complications  of  the 
lymphatic  glands,  of  the  lungs,  of  the  testicles,  of  the  internal  organs 
and  the   subcutaneous  connective  tissues. 

The  essential  symptoms  are  the  enlarged  lymphatic  glands  and  cords, 
and  ulcers  on  mucous  membrane  of  nose.  Farcy  buds  or  ulcers  in  the 
skin,  and  the  characteristic  discharge  is  from  nose  and  sores.  A  horse 
which  has  a  chronic  discharge  from  the  nose  should  always  be  looked 
upon  with  suspicion.  This  suspicion  can  be  removed  or  confirmed  by  the 
mallein  test. 


CHAPTER    XLIII. 

ANSWERED  BY  DR  R.  M.   DODDS.  MANKATO,  MINN. 

Question.  I  have  a  mare  that  has  a  running  sore  on  lower  jaw, 
caused  by  ulcerated  tooth,  what  can  I  do  for  it?  A.  Have  the  ulcerated 
tooth  extracted  by  a  competent  man.  He  may  have  to  trephine  the 
jaw  to  obliterate  the  fistula. 

Question.  What  is  best  to  do  for  a  horse  whose  shoulder  has  become 
puffed  and  swollen,  and  has  been  opened;  it  still  remains  swollen,  but  no 
discharge.  A.  Open  it  up  thoroughly  by  a  free  incision  of  knife  to 
bottom  of  tumor,  and  dress  daily  with  a  saturated  solution  of  chlorid 
of  zinc.  If  it  is  necessary  to  work  the  animal  cut  out  a  portion  of  sweat 
pad  over  tumor. 

Question.  What  is  the  correct  treatment  for  azoturia?  A.  As  pre- 
vention is  always  better  than  cure,  advice  should  be  given  in  that  direc- 
tion. Horses  regularly  worked  and  fed  are  never  the  subjects  of  this  mal- 
ady. If  you  have  no  work  for  your  horses,  turn  them  out  for  exercise,  al- 
ways cutting  down  their  feed.  Dr.  Reynolds,  Experimental  Farm,  St. 
Anthony  Park,  has  prepared  an  excellent  treatise  on  this  disease,  which 
it  will  be  well  foi  you  to  send  to  him  for.  You  will  find  it  the  most 
practical  exposition  of  the  subject,  both  canst  and  treatment,  in  the 
English  language. 

Question.  How  much  hay  does  a  1,000-pound  horse  require?  A.  It 
will  depend  on  circumstances  entirely — the  kind  of  horse  and  the  duty 
required  of  him. 

Question.  What  is  the  best  liniment  for  barb  wire  cuts?  A.  Raw 
linseed  oil,  one  pint;  carbolic  acid,  one  ounce.  Keep  the  wounds  satu- 
rated all  the  time  with  this.  Will  do  in  all  kinds  of  conditions  and 
weather. 

Question.  I  have  a  colt,  coming  two  years  old,  that  has  puffs  on 
hock  joints,  both  in  front  and  on  each  side.  Both  hind  legs  are  alike, 
is  not  lame,  colt  is  quite  large  of  its  age.  What  will  be  best  to  do  for  it, 
or  will  it  come  out  all  right?  A.  Considering  that  the  colt  is  a 
growthy  fellow  it  will  be  better  to  let  it  alone,  as  it  is  most  likely 
dropsical  and  will  probaby  disappear  with  age  and  careful  usage. 

Question.  I  have  a  horse  that  has  a  lump,  or  soft,  puffy  enlarge- 
ment, inside  of  the  fore  pastern  joint.  What  can  I  do  to  get  rid  of  it?  A. 
What  you  describe  as  a  lump,  or  soft,  puffy  enlargement,  inside  the 
pastern  joint,  is  probably  nothing  but  a  so-called  wind  gall  in  the  sheath 
of  the  flexor  tendon.     It  is  not  apt  to  cause  lameness,  and  since  it  is 


HORSE     SENSE.  223 

small  it  i?  be?t  left  alone.  May  be  your  blacksmith  has  pared  away  too 
much  of  the  quarters,  or  has  allowed  the  toes  to  grow  too  long;  or  else 
you  have  allowed  the  flexor  tendons  to  become  too  much  strained  by 
too  fast  or  too  long  continued  drives. 

Question.  What  constitutes  a  bog  spavin?  I  have  a  mare  that 
has  an  enlargement  on  hock  joint  that  my  neighbors  say  is  bog  spavin. 
She  is  not  lame.  I  would  like  to  take  the  bunch  of¥  if  possible.  A.  A 
bog  spavin,  that  is,  an  enlargement  of  the  capsular  ligament  of  the  hock 
joint,  very  seldom  causes  any  lameness,  and,  therefore  may  as  well  be  left 
alone;  at  any  rate  unless  the  causes,  usually  defective  mechanical  pro- 
portions in  the  hock  joint  and  an  uneciual  distribution  of  weight  and  con- 
cussion, can  be  removed.  Hence,  no  treatment  will  have  any  lasting  ef- 
fect. A  temporary  reduction  may  be  effected  by  iodine  preparations — 
tincture  of  iodine,  for  instance — if  applied  once  a  day  for  several  months 
in  succession. 

Question.  I  have  a  horse  that  has  been  lame  in  his  left  fore  foot  for 
over  a  year.  I  have  blistered  his  shoulder  for  sweeney,  but  it  did  no 
good.  He  is  as  lame  as  ever,  although  I  have  treated  him  for  several 
months.  What  had  I  better  do?  A.  If  you  will  kindly  inform  me  where 
the  lameness  is  situated,  and  give  a  lucid  description  of  its  characteristic 
features,  I  may  be  able  to  answer  your  question.  Meanwhile  give  your 
horse  absolute  rest,  or  else  consult  a  veterinarian  personally. 

Question.  I  have  a  valuable  horse  that  has  a  running  sore  from  his 
neck.  He  was  bit  by  a  stallion  about  one  year  ago  and  it  has  never 
healed  up.  What  can  I  do?  A.  In  the  wound  you  describe,  the  bottom 
is  probably  lower  than  the  opening,  so  that  the  pus  that  is  formed  cannot 
be  discharged.  The  wound,  therefore,  is  equivalent  to  what  is  usualljr 
called  a  fistula.  The  facts  in  the  case  must  be  first  ascertained  by  carefuE 
probing.  If  this  reveals  that  the  bottom  is  lower,  either  the  wound  must 
be  enlarged  or  a  lower  opening  must  be  made.  If  this  is  done,  and  the- 
wound  is  kept  clean  and  dressed  twice  a  day  with  some  antiseptic,  say — 
according  to  circumstances  and  to  the  condition  of  the  wound — either 
with  a  three  or  five  per  cent  solution  of  carbolic  acid,  or  with  iodiform, 
a  healing  will  be  effected.  It  is  much  cheaper  in  all  cases  to  employ  a 
good  veterinarian,  and  pay  him  for  his  services,  than  to  lose  a  good 
horse. 

Question.  What  would  you  do  with  a  sweeney  on  a  three-year  old 
colt?  A.  If  the  colt  is  lame,  have  the  foot  examined  and  see  if  the 
trouble  is  not  there.  If  it  is,  the  shoulder  always  shrinks  from  sympathy. 
If  it  should  be  in  shoulder,  a  rowel  will  be  in  order,  left  in  about  two 
weeks. 

Question.  Can  splints  on  horses  be  cured?  If  so,  what  is  the  cure? 
A.  If  your  horse  is  not  lame  from  the  splints,  let  them  alone.  They  will 
disappear  by  a  natural  process  in  time.  If  lame  and  near  the  knee  joint  it 
will  be  well  to  apply  a  sharp,  absorbing  blister,  iodine  of  potassium,  4 
drachms;  iodine,  4  scruples;  mercurial  ointment,  2  ounces.  Mix  and  ap- 
ply on  splints  once  a  week  for  three  applications. 


224  HORSE    SENSE. 

Question.  What  is  the  best  remedy  for  scratches?  A.  Take  a  clean 
rub  rag  and  clean  out  heels  well  and  apply  oxide  of  zinc  ointment.  Never 
wash,  or  as  seldom  as  possible. 

Question.  What  about  capped  elbow  or  shoe-boil?  A.  Open  freely, 
getting  perfect  drainage,  wash  out  thoroughly,  using  a  solution  of  Pot. 
Permanganese;  one  drachm  to  one  pint  of  water,  once  daily;  apply  can- 
tharides  blister,  over  the  whole  mass  once  weekly.  This  is  the  simplest 
treatment.  Of  course  in  old  standing  cases,  a  surgical  operation  is  nec- 
essary, when  the  services  of  a  veterinary  is  in  order. 

Question.  Can  swelling  of  the  legs  be  cured?  A.  It  would  depend 
on  the  cause.  For  ordinary  swelled  legs  the  following  remedy  will  be 
found  beneficial:  potassium  acetate,  tinct.  digitalas  six  ounces;  equal 
parts;  add  water  sufficient  to  make  twelve  ounces.  Dose,  one  ounce  every 
four  hours. 

Question.  Do  wind-galls  injure  a  horse  and  can  they  be  removed? 
A.     If  windgalls  do  not  cause  lameness,  let  them  alone. 

Question.  How  will  the  horse  act  with  shoulder  lameness?  A. 
This  is  quite  a  broad  question,  as  there  are  three  forms  of  shoulder  lame- 
ness, all  of  which  may  exist  independently  of  each  other.  The  gait  of 
shoulder  lameness,  is  indicative  of  the  seat  of  injury.  The  horse  brings 
the  leg  forward  with  a  sort  of  half  circle  sweep,  and  in  some  cases  the 
toe  is  dragged  along  the  ground.  In  well  marked  cases,  in  bringing  the 
limbs  forcibly  forward,  the  pain  will  be  so  great  as  to  raise  the  front  of 
the  animal  ofif  the  ground. 

Hot  fomentations  with  blankets  wrung  out  of  hot  water  and  placed 
over  the  shoulders,  with  dry  blankets  over  is  indicated  and  should  be  kept 
up  until  relief  is  obtained. 

Question.  What  is  the  best  means  of  removing  warts?  A.  Keep 
wart   saturated   with  diluted  acetic   acid. 

Question.  What  can  be  done  for  grease  heel?  A.  As  the  trouble 
arises  within  the  body,  connected  with  digestion,  torpidity  of  the  liver, 
etc.,  we  must  remove  the  cause.  Give  seven  drachms  of  barbedoes  aloes 
and  one  drachm  of  ginger,  in  a  bolus  at  once.  This  acts  on  the  blood 
before  acting  on  the  bowels.  Give  also  a  tablespoonful  of  soda  in  every 
feed,  for  about  two  weeks;  then  give  the  following:  tr.  ferri  chlor, 
(chloride  of  iron),  liq-potas-arsen,  (Fowler's  solution),  12  ounces;  mix 
together  and  give  one  ounce  of  this  mixture  in  one  pint  of  water  three 
times  a  day.  For  local  treatment,  poultice  with  flaxseed  meal  in  which  a 
tablespoonful  of  powdered  charcoal  is  mixed.  Keep  up  the  poultices 
for  a  couple  of  weeks.  We  prefer  dry  treatment  after  poulticing.  Never 
wash,  but  always  rub  dry  with  a  towel  and  keep  the  cracks  dusted  with 
powdered  alum  and  golden  seal,  (hydrastis). 

Question.  What  is  the  best  remedy  for  scratches?  A.  Poultice  the 
afifected  part  with  flaxseed  meal,  in  which  a  tablespoonful  of  powdered 
charcoal  is  mixed.  Renew  this  poultice  every  day  for  one  week;  then 
apply  oxide  of  zinc  ointment  for  another  week,  after  which  good  hand 
rubbing  will  do  the  finishing,  unless  there  is  constitutional  trouble,  in 
which  case  use  the  same  treatment  as  for  grease  heel. 


HORSK     SENSE.  225 

Question.  What  treatinciU  will  relieve  the  lameness  of  ring  bone? 
A.  Keep  the  toe  pared  short;  shoe  with  high  heel  corks  and  use  the 
following  counter-irritant:  oil  of  peppermint  one  ounce;  tincture  of  bella- 
donna and  tinct  iodine,  each  three  and  a  half  ounces;  mix  and  apply  once 
or  twice  a  day.     The  most  certain  treatment,  is  firing  or  neurotomy. 

Question.  What  will  relieve  the  lameness  of  bone  spavin?  A.  The 
treatment  for  ring  bone  applies  to  this  case;  viz.:  counter-irritants,  firing 
and  sciatic  neurotomy,  are  indicated. 

Question.  What  can  I  do  for  quarter-crack?  A.  Proper  balanc- 
ing of  the  foot  with  a  bar  shoe,  cutting  out  a  V-shape  of  horn  from  each 
side  of  the  crack,  so  there  will  be  no  working  of  the  part  above  or  at  the 
coronet.  Blister  above  the  crack  once  a  week,  for  three  week  and  after- 
wards treat  foot  as  for  hoof-bound. 

Question.  What  can  I  do  for  toe  crack?  A.  Same  as  for  quarter 
crack. 

Question.  What  is  best  for  a  "prick"  of  the  sole?  A.  In  veterinary 
science  this  designation  has  been  given  to  a  punctured  wound,  often 
with  laceration,  sometimes  with  contusions,  either  of  the  sole  or  frog, 
produced  by  sharp  or  cutting  bodies;  more  commonly  nails,  upon  which 
the  animal  steps.  The  form  of  these  bodies,  the  direction  they  take,  the 
force  with  which  they  penetrate  and  the  parts  they  enter,  give  rise  to 
various  lesions  of  varying  gravity,  as  they  are  older  or  as  the  injured  part 
enjoys  a  greater  sensibility.  In  all  cases,  the  first  indication  is  to  get  a 
natural  repair.  Open  up  the  wound  with  hoof  knife  to  bottom;  giving 
always  good  drainage,  then  absolute  rest,  warm  poultices  of  flaxseed  meal 
and  a  little  powdered  charcoal,  for  a  few  days;  then  cold  water  baths,  in 
which  is  added  a  little  acetate  of  lead  or  even  common  salt.  By  this 
treatment,  the  progress  of  the  inflammation  is  checked  and  very  often 
-deep  and  serious  wounds  cured  without  injury. 

Question.  What  can  be  done  for  corns  in  the  horse's  feet?  A.  As 
for  the  curative  treatment  of  corns,  there  are  four  indications  to  be  ful- 
filled: 1st,  remove  the  cause;  2nd,  treat  the  injury  it  has  produced;  3rd, 
relieve  the  pressure  upon  the  diseased  region;  4th,  prevent  the  return 
of  the  injury.  Cold  baths  to  the  feet  are  very  usejul  in  all  cases  of  corns 
and  a  bar  shoe  is  a  necessity.  ^ 

Question.  What  is  hoof-bound  feet  and  the  cure?  A.  Sometimes 
"hoof-bound"  is  only  a  simple  deformity  without  lameness  and  without 
serious  results.  But  in  most  cases  it  constitutes  a  very  serious  affection 
which  renders  many  horses  useless  and  practically  without  value.  Hoof- 
bound  is  commonly  associated  with  corns,  navicular  disease,  punctured 
wounds,  thrush,  side  bones,  any  and  all  articular  diseases  and  heredity. 

Question.  What  is  to  be  done  with  hard,  dry  hoofs?  A.  Avoid  all 
known  causes  likely  to  give  rise  to  this  morbid  condition  of  the  frog; 
pare  the  foot,  cutting  away  all  the  ragged  parts  that  would  cover  secre- 
tions that  collect;  exposing  and  thoroughly  cleansing  first  the  diseased 
parts;  then  poultice  a  few  times  with  flaxseed  meal;  then  dress  with  dry- 
ing powders,    such   as  sub-acetate  of  lead;   powdered  alum  and  tannin. 


226  HORSE     SENSE. 

equal  parts.     It  is  certain  that  in  many  cases,  that  proper  shoeing  is  of 
great  advantage. 

Question.  What  is  good  to  remove  stomach  worms  from  the  horse? 
A.  Give  the  following  on  an  empty  stomach;  raw  linseed  oil,  eight 
ounces;  oil  of  turpentine,  two  tablcspoonfuls;  keep  well  mixed  and  ad- 
minister as  a  drench.  It  may  be  well  to  repeat  it  in  a  week  or  two.  Give 
as  a  tonic;  the  following  mixture:  sulpliate  of  iron,  ten  drachms;  gentian,. 
two  ounces;  willow  charcoal,  one  ounce;  Jamaica  ginger,  one  ounce. 
Mix  into  fifteen  powders  and  give  one  powder  on  the  tongue  before 
meals. 


APPENDIX.      . 

FOR  YOUNG  COLTS. 

Note.— The  illustrations  used  here  are  of  "Betsy  Tell,"  b.  f.,  foaled  April  20,  1902; 
sired  by  Brauntel.  by  tlif  workl  renowned  Axtel  (sold  as  a  three-year-old  for  $105,000). 
Betsys  kindergarten  work  of  iustructlou  began  with  the  first  hour  and  day  of  her 
life,  and  continued  with  short,  frequently  repeated  lessons  for  one  week,  and  after, 
■every  two  or  three  days  up  to  thirty  days  old,  when  turned  to  pasture.  Hundreds  of 
St.  Paul  people  of  all  classes  can  testify  to  this  little  equine's  remarkable  advance- 
ment and  good  behavior.  Ladies  and  children  were  delighted  to  entertain  this  young 
member  of  fashionable  society  on  St.  Anthony  Hill. 

The  usefulness,  comfort,  safety  and  consequent  value  of  all  our 
horses  in  the  varied  duties  of  their  mature  life — like  that  of  our  chil- 
dren for  trades,  business  and  useful  members  of  society  during  their 
maturity — depends  so  much  on  their  early  education  and  training  for 
specific  work  to  be  performed,  that  kindergarten  schools  for  our  "little 
tots"  all  over  our  land  is  now  recognized  as  next  to  indispensable,  that 
work  of  a  similar  character  with  the  little  colts— for  their  future 
required  duties  must  be  considered  of  but  little  less  value,  when  we 
reflect  that  every  act,  duty  or  labor  that  they  perform  must  first  be 
taught  so  thoroughly  that  the  animal  can  be  relied  on  for  a  certainty 
of  action  under  all  circumstances. 

NATURAL  LAWS  OF  ANIMAL  LIFE. 

One  of  the  most  important  lessons  for  the  educator  of  animals 
is  to  thoroughly  understand  the  natural  laws  of  animal  life:  to  know 
for  himself  perfectly  what  is  to  be  done  and  just  how  to  do  it.  He 
must  understand  the  natural  laws  governing  horses  in  their  natural 
actions— in  their  uneducated  state.  He  should  understand  that  the 
perpendicular  center  of  the  horse's  body  is  his  center  of  action — pivotal 
point;  whatever  happens  or  attaches  to  the  front  portion  of  tlie  ani- 
mal induces  backward  movements  and  that  to  the  rear  part  just  as 
naturally  induces   forward   movement.s — just  opposite  direction. 

Whatever  movements  are  required  by  the  educator  of  the  young 
colt  must  be  in  conformity  with  these  unalterable  natural  laws  for 
proper  results  If  a  backward  movement  is  desired  the  work  of  the 
tutor  should  be  made  at  the  front  portion  of  the  colt's  body,  but  for 
a  forward  action  then  the  work  must  be  transferred  to  the  rear  part 
of  the  body.  Care  must  always  be  exercised  that  these  alternate 
movements  are  not  required  in  rapid  succession  from  one  end  of  the 
body  to  the  other,  as  it  is  too  apt  to  confuse  the  young  animal  pupil 
before  it  thoroughly  understands  them. 

Without  a  still  further  explanation  of  this  natural  law  the  reader 
may  not  fully  comprehend  it;  but  when  he  is  reminded  of  that  which 
he  already  knows  full  well  he  will  no  doubt  realize  its  complete  mean- 


228 


HORSE   SENSE. 


ing.  Every  horseman  of  experience  and  observation  knows  that 
whenever  a  horse  gets  his  front  foot  over  an  obstruction  of  any  kind 
and  feels  the  pressure  on  the  foot  or  leg — even  if  it  is  not  six  inches 
above  ground — he  goes  backwards  until  he  frees  himself,  even  when 
he  could  step  over  the  obstruction  by  a  forward  movement;  and  when 
the  hind  foot  is  fast  he  goes  forward. 

It  is  also  well  known  that  when  the  halter  is  put  upon  the  colt's 
head  for  the  first  time  and  the  "breaker"  begins  to  pull  upon  the 
halter  that  the  colt  will  invariably  go  backwards  to  get  out  of  the 
difficulty,  yet  how  many  colt  handlers  ever  stopped  to  consider  for 
one  moment  why  the  colt  goes  in  that  direction  in  preference  to  any 
other?  And  still  everybody  knows  this  to  be  the  fact.  Every  colt 
"breaker"  realizes  in  the  beginning  that  it  is  a  question  of  man  power 


rf"  ■       ■'^ffif^ 

[^^"    <:••' 

,.;-■. .;t. 
.1.1-                                  •■                   "t       ' 

^  *-#v'sai 

IIII«IP^^ 

fk 

^: 

Fig.  1  represents  Betsy,  at  three  days  old,  and  the  manner  of  catching  the 
colt  at  both  ends  at  the  same  time  for  success. 


at  one  end  of  the  halter  and  horse  power  at  the  other.  If  there  is 
more  horse  power  than  human  strength,  too  oft^n  a  confirmed  halter 
puller  follows.  If  the  halter  is  broken  in  the  struggle  a  like  result  is 
quite  evident. 

To  still  further  illustrate  this  great  natural  law,  just  take  up  the 
front  foot  of  the  horse  and  carry  it  forward  to  the  straining  point 
and  the  horse  invariably  goes  backwards.  Now  carry  the  same  foot 
back  under  the  body  back  of  its  center  and  a  forward  movement 
is  the  result.  Then  take  up  a  hind  foot  and  carry  it  backwards  and 
the  horse  moves  forward  for  relief;  but  carry  it  under  the  body  for- 
wards of  the  center  and  the  horse  again  attempts  a  backward  action 
to  get  away  from  its  efifect.  Whenever  a  horse  is  seen  to  try  the 
passage  of  a  narrow  doorway,  gate  or  between  two  posts,  which 
makes    pressure    on    both    his    sides,    if    he    gets    more    than    half    way 


APPENDIX, 


229 


through   it  is  next  to   impossible  to  back  him  out.     He  seems  deter- 
mined to  go  on  througii  if  his  hips  are  broken  down  in  the  attempt. 

An  ilhistration  of  leading  the  dog  for  the  first  time  is  the  same 
as  that  of  the  colt;  he  pulls  back  just  the  same,  and  if  the  leader  is 
in  a  hurry  he  will  go,  dragging  the  dog;  but  don't  every  small  boy 
and  most  old  men  know  the  efifect  and  direction  the  dog  will  take 
with  a  tin  can  tied  to  his  tail  and  turned  loose?  Now  should  not 
these  well  known  facts  in  relation  to  the  natural  laws  make  an  impres- 
sion on  all  horsemen  strong  enough  that  from  this  time  forward 
they  will  work  in  conformity  with  them  instead  of  everlastingly  oppos- 
ing them  for  the  trouble  that  can  be  so  easily  avoided. 


Fig.  2  shows  Betsy,  at  four  days  old,  enjoying  her  first  experience  m  halter 
edtication.    Shows  she  takes  kindly  to  it. 

AGE  TO  BEGIN  TRAINING  THE  COLT. 

Bacause  it  has  been  the  time-honored  custom  to  let  the  colts  run 
ad  libitum  until  there  comes  a  convenient  time,  or  until  they  are  two 
or  three  years  old,  and  then  "turn  in  and  break  them,"  does  it  prove 
that  it  is  best?  The  colt  must  be  taken  hold  of  and  handled  before 
it  can  understand  what  its  duties  in  life  work  are.  Then  at  what  age 
shall  we  begin?  "Yankee  like,"  the  question  may  be  answered  by 
asking  if  any  one  likes  a  hard  job  in  preference  to  an  easy  one, 
a  wild  colt  instead  of  a  gentle  one,  a  nervous,  dangerous  one  to  a 
fearless  fellow?  These  conditions  are  the  results  of  the  differences 
in  handling  and  the  age  at  which  to  begin.  Sooner  or  later  the  neces- 
sary time,  patience  and  care  must  be  taken  for  a  practical  education, 
and  it  is  certainly  the  easiest,  surest  and  best  method  to  begin  when  we 
can  handle  the  young  colts  on  equal  terms  without  punishment  or 
fright;  show  them,  rather  than  force  them,  to  do  that  which  they 
do   not  understand  by  beginning  at  the  age  ot   infancy,    say  one  hour 


230  HORSE   SENSE. 

or  one  day  old,  bv  taking  hold  of  them  and  handling  them  all  over 
carefully  without  fright  or  punishment.  The  earlier  in  the  colt's  life 
we  begin  the  easier  the  task,  and  the  longer  it  is  postponed  the 
greater  chances  or  prospects  for  a  hard  struggle.  The  dififerences  of 
opinion  come  in  here  as  to  just  the  right  age  to  begin. 

HORSE  INTELLIGENCE. 

Far  too  many  of  the  human  family  believe  the  horse  is  only  a 
"brute"  to  be  "yanked,"  kicked  and  pounded  into  submission  at  the 
pleasure  or  passion  '^f  the  "acephalous  hossman,"  who  is  trying  to 
force  his  would-be  faithful  animal  servant  to  perform  duties  which 
neither  understand  the  foundation  principles  of,  but  both  operating 
against  each  other  and  getting  farther  from  the  desired  "goal"  at  every 
turn.  It  is  a  case  of  a  man  wanting  to  be  a  horse  trainer  not  under- 
standing the  true  principles  of  horsemanship,  ignoring  the  natural  laws 


Fig.  3  indicates  clearly  just  how  Betsy,  at  six  days  old,  learned  to  back  in    , 
compliance  with  the  great  natural  law,  so  that  in  a  few  days  she  could 
be  induced  to  keep  backing  for  half  a  block  by  word  alone. 

of  animal  life,  and  the  horse,  not  knowing  what  is  wanted;  a  horse  and 
man  fight  generally  results,  with  no  advantage  to  the  "breaker"  and 
certainly  a  damage  to  the  horse. 

HORSE'S  WONDERFUL  MEMORY. 

If  we  are  not  willing  to  concede  that  the  horse  is  endowed  with 
a  fair  degree  of  intelligence  we  are  in  duty  bound  to  respect  his  very 
retentive  memory,  as  he  never  forgets  anything — good  or  bad.  Most 
people  are  ready  to  charge  the  horse  with  readily  remembering  all 
the  bad  tricks  he  ever  learned,  yet  very  few  are  ready  to  acknowledge 
the  careful  recollections  of  the  valuable  instructions  of  early  life.  If 
the    horse    only    remembers    the    bad    habits    learned    and    forgets    the 


APPENDIX.  231 

good,  it  becomes  the  more  important  that  he  never,  never,  never  have 
the  advantages  of  acquiring  a  single  bad  trick. 

WHEN  AND  HOW  TO  BEGIN  WITH  THE  COLT. 

When  the  young  foal  is  but  an  hour  or  one  day  old  is  the  very 
best  time — without  question — to  demonstrate  the  truth  of  another 
natural  law  in  animal  life,  i.  e.,  the  stronger  rules  the  weaker;  but 
in  this  case  it  must  be  with  kindness  and  good  things  to  eat — by 
catching  the  young,  timid  thing  at  both  ends  and  holding  it. 

This  must  be  done  in  a  very  firm  but  quiet  manner  by  placing  one 
hand  under  the  neck  of  the  colt  and  the  other  under  the  hams,  when 
that  first  natural  law  can  be  easily  demonstrated.  If  the  pressure  i.s 
made  greatest  at  the  hams  or  rear  end,  the  colt  will  move  forwards; 
then  if  the  pressure  is  made  at  the  chest  or  front  end  of  the  body, 
with  relief  at  the  hams,  the  colt  will  go  backwards.  Never  catch  the 
colt  around  the  neck  only  and  hold  on.  If  this  is  done,  and  persisted 
in,  the  colt  will  go  backwards  in  a  hurry,  and  both  will  go  down  to- 


pic. 4  gives  the  reader  an  idea  of  how  Betsy,  at  seven  days  old,  likes  sugar, 
and,  although  her  newly  fitted  surcingle  and  crupper  were  a  great  annoy- 
ance to  her  very  sensitive  nerves,  she  soon  became  reconciled. 

gether  in  a  heap.    And  it  is  not  always  safe  to  rely  on  a  tail  hold  even 
at  this  early  age. 

HANDLE  THE  COLT  ALL  OVER. 

Sooner  or  later  we  must  take  hold  of  the  colt  and  handle  it.  Will 
we  wait  until  it  is  the  stronger  and  we  have  to  rely  on  means  of  pun- 
ishment to  a  greater  or  less  degree,  or  will  we  undertake  this  work  at 
an  age  that  the  young  thing  can  be  handled  on  equal  terms  without 
pain  or  struggle? 

After  the  colt  has  been  caught  and  held  as  above  described  until 
it  becomes  reconciled  to  the  fact  that  man  is  the  stronger  of  the  two 


232  HORSE    SENSE. 

—and  it  will  never  forget  this  unless  a  mistake  is  made  and  it  gets  away 
—then  begin  making  it  acquainted  with  hand  touches  over  every  part 
of  its  body,  being  very  careful  about  its  ears,  back  of  the  fore  legs  and 
at  the  flank,  where  it  will  be  found  very  sensitive.  After  this  is  done 
then  take  up  the  feet  and  legs  on  the  side  next  to  you  and  handle  them 
very  carefully;  then  get  on  the  other  side  and  handle  all  over  again 
from  that  standpoint.  A  horse  may  be  very  familiar  with  his  handler 
from  the  "near,"  or  left  side  (the  side  he  is  usually  approached  from), 
and  yet  he  may  be  frightened  from  approach  on  the  "ofif,"  or  right  side. 
The  colt  should  be  familiar  with  people  coming  to  it  from  every  quarter 
without  fright  or  suspicion  that  it  is  to  be  harmed  in  the  least  by  any- 
thing. 

SECURE  COLT'S  ENTIRE  CONFIDENCE. 

The  great  secret  in  handling  men  or  animals  intelligently  is  in  getting- 
and  maintaining  their  confidence.    When  the  young  colt  has  been  caught 


Pig.  5  pictures  Betsy,  at  eight  days  of  age,  with  her  surcingle,  crupper  and 

check-rein,  being  driven  with  lines  (no  bit  in  mouth),  and  as  contented 

as  an  old,  experienced  pupil  or  graduate. 

and  handled  all  over  for  the  first  time,  and  the  demonstration  of  the  law 
that  the  stronger  rule  the  weaker  is  manifest  by  the  inability  of  the  colt 
to  get  away  (which  should  never  be  permitted),  makes  such  a  lasting 
impression  that  it  will  never  forget  it  until  some  mistake  is  made.  But 
if  by  a  mistake  it  succeeds  in  making  its  escape,  it  will  certainly  not 
forget  this  either,  but  try  it  again  unless  its  confidence  is  so  thoroughly 
gained  that  it  feels  as  much  at  home  with  its  tutor  as  with  its  mother, 
which  is  possible  to  such  a  degree  that  it  will  be  as  well  satisfied  with 
one  as  the  other. 

The  medium  of  the  stomach,  it  is  said,  is  the  most  direct  road  to  a 
man's  affections,  and  it  is  none  the  less  true  with  the  young  colt.     A? 


APPENDIX.  233 

sugar  is  a  little  sweeter  than  the  dam's  milk,  and  is  generally  relished 
with  astonishing  effect  when  given  in  small  quantities  from  the  hand  of 
the  tutor,  the  young  colt  becomes  the  more  confident,  as  it  has  been 
caught  and  held  by  a  superior  force;  it  has  not  been  hurt,  but  caressed, 
fondled,  petted  and  given  ever  a  little  sweeter  food  than  its  dam  was 
able  to  provide.  Then  what  has  the  little  thing  to  be  afraid  of?  If  it  is 
treated  in  this  manner  a  few  days  it  will  as  readily  follow  its  tutor  as  its 
dam,  and  enjoy  being  handled  in  any  way  desired  which  does  not 'frighten 
or  give  it  pain. 

Granulated  sugar,  in  its  early  life,  must  be  given  from  the  palm  of 
the  hand,  which,  by  passing  the  hand  across  the  colt's  lips  with  some 
pressure  and  taken  away,  will  leave  a  little  sugar  between  the  lips  and 
the  colt's  tongue  will  soon  come  in  contact  with  it,  and  the  job  is  practi- 
cally done,  as  the  colt  becomes  more  and  more  satisfied  with  the  situa- 
tion,  and   soon   manifests   a   disposition   by   its  actions   that   it   would   like 


Fig.  6  illustrates  what  an  early  beginning,  as  in  the  (•;iv(-  of  Betsy  at  nine  days 
old,  does  for  the  voting  colt  to  make  It  kind  and  indittert'iit  to  benig  handled 
in  any  manner.  See  how  much  more  she  is  attracted  to  an  object  in  the  dis- 
tance than  she  is  to  having  her  foot  held  up. 

more  sugar,   in  which  it  should  not  be   disappointed,  but  given  more, 
little  by  little,  until  its  confidence  is  fully  obtained. 

COLTS  ARE  NATURALLY  TIMID. 

The  treatment  our  horses  have  had  from  time  immemorial  and  the 
experiences  of  brutal  treatment  and  torture  their  ancestors  have  suffered 
has  no  doubt  had  much  to  do  with  the  innate  fear  exhibited  in  the  high- 
ly organized  nervous  system  of  many  of  our  horses,' and  this  influence 
is  so  strongly  manifest  in  the  progeny  that  we  are  compelled  to  be  more 
careful  in  all  we  do  with  the  young  colts  to  gain  their  confidence,  by 
kind  treatment  and  careful  handling,  to  satisfy  them  that  we  are  their 


lU 


HORSE   SENSE. 


friends  instead  of  enemies.  This  natural  timidity  can  only  be  overcome 
by  kind,  firm  treatment,  relished  morsels  for  the  stomach  and  an  assur- 
ing manner  that  they  need  not  fear  anything  from  those  who  have  charge 
of  their  care  and  keeping. 

EDUCATING  THE  COLT  TO  THE  HALTER. 

This  IS  about  the  simpliest,  easiest  and  most  satisfactory  demonstra- 
tion of  the  natural  laws  of  anything  we  have  to  do  in  their  education. 
If  the  colt  has  been  treated  in  the  manner  heretofore  suggested,  there 
need  be  no  trouble  in  getting  the  halter  on  the  colt's  head,  but  I  here 


Fig.  7  outlines  the  method  of  laying  Betsy  down  for  the  first  time  at  ten  days  of  age. 
She  did  not  take  kindly  to  this  at  first,  but  in  a  few  lessons  she  became  as  famil- 
iar with  her  humble  attitude  as  any  other.  Note  that  the  left  foot  is  held  in  the 
hand  while  the  head  is  turned  to  the  right,  which  naturally  throws  the  weight  of 
the  colt  to  the  teacher,  and  he  can  lay  the  little,  young  thing  down  as  gently  as 
putting  a  baby  in  Its  crib. 

beg  of  the  handler  not  to  pull  at  the  colt's  head  to  get  it  to  follow,  as 
in  this  it  will  certainly  be  on  the  wrong  line  of  operation.  But  as  soon 
as  the  halter  is  nicely  fitted  to  the  colt's  head,  a  small  rope — the  size 
of  a  light  clothes  line — about  ten  feet  or  more  long,  with  a  slip  noose 
or  ring  in  one  end,  should  be  gently  placed  over  the  colt's  back  just 
in  front  of  the  hips,  with  the  noose  or  ring  on  the  underside  of  the  body, 
so  that  when  the  other  end  of  the  rope  is  run  through  the  noose  the 


APPENDIX.  235 

ropo  can  be  closely  drawn  down  around  tlie  tlanks;  then  pass  the  rope 
between  the  fore  legs  under  the  body  up  under  the  nose  band  of  the 
halter,  and  then  by  taking  hold  of  the  halter  strap  in  one  hand  and 
tliis  light  rope  with  the  other,  the  halter  education  of  the  colt  may  begin 
— and  not  before — by  first  feeling  of  the  colt's  head  through  the  medium 
of  the  halter  strap  by  gentle  tension  and  then  relieving,  a  little  more 
tension  and  relief.  But  above  all,  don't  hurry  or  go  at  it  in  a  vigorous 
manner,  but  give  the  colt  a  chance  to  realize  that  the  new  situation 
is  not  a  pulling  match  in  opposition  to  the  natural  law  governing  such 
procedure  generally.  After  feeling  of  the  colt's  head  with  the  halter 
strap  a  number  of  times  to  let  it  know  that  its  head  is  not  rigidly  fast, 
but  in  a  trap  that  it  must  not  try  to  get  out  of,  pulling  a  little  harder 
each   time   until    it    decides   to   go  back  and   try   to    get    away   in   that 


Fig.  8  is  an  example  of  Betsy,  at  eleven  clays  of  age,  and  her  instructor  loung- 
ing on  the  lawn  together,  entertaining  one  another.    Betsy  has  the 
appearance  of  being  sleepy  instead  of  frightened. 

direction,  when  a  sudden  and  emphatic  action  is  to  be  made  through 
the  medium  of  the  rope  by  a  sharp  pull,  which  will  immediately  change 
the  intention  and  action  of  the  colt  to  a  forward  movement — the  one 
desired — when  the  colt  should  be  set  at  ease  regarding  the  situation  by 
a  little  sugar  and  caresses  Repeat  this  operation  over  and  over  a-rain 
until  the  colt  understands  that  when  pressure  is  made  on  the  top  of  the 
head  with  the  halter,  and  a  backward  movement  is  made,  that  it  is  go- 
ing into  a  more  positive  pressure  at  the  other  end  of  the  body,  which 
naturally  induces  a  change  of  programme  and  a  move  in  the  other  di- 
rection without  a  fight,  squabble  or  getting  mad. 

After  the  colt  fully  understands  the  legitimate  use  of  the  halter  in 
leading  is  a  very  good  time  to  teach  it  to  back — a  very  important  and 
necessary  duty  in  its  after  life  of  usefulness — which  is  easily  accomplished 
by  complying  with  the  natural  law  again — by  pressing  the  extended  fin 


236 


HORSE   SENSE. 


gers  of  one  hand  between  the  point  of  the  shoulder  and  the  breast  bone 
and  using  the  other  hand  at  the  halter  strap  to  simply  keep  the  colt 
straight  in  line,  to  back  in  any  desired  direction.  Don't  try  to  force  the 
colt  backwards  by  "yanking"  at  the  halter  or  bit,  but  simply  press  in 
this  sensitive  chest  cavity  with  the  fingers  and  the  colt  will  naturally  go 
backwards,  provided  there  is  nothing  of  an  obstruction  behind  it.  When 
this  pressure  has  been  made  at  the  front  and  the  colt  has  moved  back- 
wards (if  it  is  only  one  step)  it  should  be  rewarded  for  this  action;  then 
try  it  again.  About  the  third  time  this  pressure  has  been  made  is  a 
good  time  to  associate  the  word  back!  with  the  pressure,  and  the  reader 
will  be  surprised  to  see  how  soon  the  colt  will  comprehend  what  is 
wanted,  and  how  willingly  the  young  thing  complies  with  our  every  wish 
as  soon  as  it  understands  what  is  wanted. 


Fig  9  exemplifies  how  Betsy,  at  twelve  days  of  age,  be(  ame  so  -well  acquainted 
with  the  umbrella  and  other  objects  while  lying  on  the  grass  that  she  pre- 
ferred to  eat  the  latter  instead  of  getting  frightened  at  the  umbrella. 
See  how  contented  she  is. 

DRIVING  THE  YOUNG  COLT  WITH  LINES. 

Just  as  soon  as  the  colt  fully  understands  the  backing  movement 
thoroughly  is  a  verv  opportune  time  to  begin  driving  with  lines,  and 
to  do  this  successfully  a  surcingle  (crupper  and  check  may  be  well) 
nicely  adjusted  is  required.  The  surcingle  must  be  provided  with  loops 
or  rings  on  each  side,  placed  below  the  center  line  of  the  body  and  the 
lines  passed  through  these  and  secured  to  the  rings  of  the  halter  (never 
use  a  bit  in  the  mouth  of  the  very  younp  colt  if  it  can  possibly  be 
helped),  and  then  the  lines  will  draw  or  pass  the  hind  quarters  low  down 
to  prevent  the  colt  from  turning  with  its  head  towards  the  educator. 
It  is  very  important  to  keep  the  reins  low  in  turning  to  make  the 
guiding  process  easy  The  tutor  can  walk  very  close  to  the  colt's  heels 
in  the  beginning,  so  as  to  encourage  it  in  its  forward  movement  with  a 


APPENDIX. 


23: 


little  pressure  on  the  rump  with  one  hand  wliile  the  directing  or  guid- 
ing is  done  with  the  other  hand.  After  a  little,  as  the  colt  becomes  ac- 
customed to  being  driven,  then  it  can  be  touched  up  with  the  line  for  a 
start  forward,  guiding  to  the  right  and  left,  but  stopping  often  to  assure 
the  young  thing  that  it  is  doing  all  right  by  caresses  and  a  little  sugar. 

EDUCATING  THE  COLT  TO  STOP. 

In  driving  the  colt  with  lines,  as  soon  as  it  will  start  off  promptly 
at  the  word  for  forward  movements,  or  by  a  slight  touch  at  the  hams 
with  the  lines  and  can  be  guided  to  the  right  and  left  without  difficulty 
is  the  proper  time  to  educate  it  to  stop  at  the  word  whoa!  together 
with  a  sudden  and  positive  pull  on  the  lines;  then,  after  waiting  a  min- 
ute or  two.  start  on  as  before,  and  after  going  until  everything  appears 


Fig.  10  is  a  clear  case  of  the  contentment  of  the  dam  in  the  distance  gi'aziug, 

while  Betsy,  thirteen  days  old,  is  sleeping,  with  her  teacher's  head 

pillowed  on  her  ijody,  with  one  hind  foot  on  his  hip. 

all  right,  the  stopping  can  be  ordered  and  carried  out  in  the  same  way. 
repeating  at  longer  or  shorter  intervals,  until  the  colt  stops  at  the  word 
whoa!  as  promptly  as  any  horse  with  years  of  experience. 

Whenever  these  stops  are  made  the  colt  should  be  given  special 
attention,  by  caresses  and  a  little  sugar,  to  satisfy  it  that  notwithstanding 
it  has  been  "snubbed"  up  suddenly,  it  is  still  treated  kindly.  The  coh 
must  not  on  any  account  become  confused  or  frightened.  Time,  patience, 
compliance  with  the  natural  law,  sweet  morsels  of  food  fed  from  the 
hand,  kindness  and  firmness  will  make  the  work  easy,  successful  and 
satisfactory.     Please  don't  forget  any  of  this. 

LAYING  THE  YOUNG   COLT  DOWN. 
This  matter  of  laying  the  colt  down  is  considered  by  many  as  wholly 
unnecessary,  and  by  some  a  disadvantage.     But  this   will  be  a   subject 
for  each  one  to  decide  for  himself  after  the  advantages  are  set  forth. 


238 


HORSE    SENSE. 


To  lay  the  young  colt  down  is  a  very  easy  matter,  when  rightly  done. 
Say  you  stand  on  the  near  or  left  side  of  the  colt  with  the  halter  strap 
drawn  from  the  right  side  of  the  colt's  head  and  across  the  back  of  the 
colt.  Now  take  up  the  left  front  foot  of  the  colt  with  one  hand  by  a 
firm  grasp  and  with  the  other  pull  the  colt's  head  by  the  halter  strap 
close  to  its  right  side,  which  will  throw  the  weight  of  the  colt  towards 
the  operator,  and  at  an  early  age  it  can  be  laid  down  about  as  easily 
and  carefully  as  a  mother  would  put  her  baby  in  its  crib  or  cradle. 
As  soon  as  the  colt  is  down  and  it  makes  the  least  effort  to  rise,  its 
head  should  be  pulled  up  closely  to  its  side,  back  towards  the  flank 
which  makes  it  impossible  for  it  to  get  up  if  kept  in  this  position.  As 
soon  as  it  has  finished  its  struggle  to  gain  its  feet  and  failed  it  should 
be  given   an   easy  position  in   prostrate  form,   and,   as   soon  as   it   takes 


Fig.  1 1  portrays  Betsy,  at  thirty  days  of  life,  standing  in  front  of  the  Acme 
stables,  Selby  avenue,  hitched  to  shafts  (with  pieces  of  rear  end  to  prevent 
backward  movements  voltmtarilv),  but  she  seems  to  pay  more  attention  to 
the  little  girl  standing  by  the  Indian  tobacco  sign  than  the  electric  street 
cars  running  at  full  speed. 

kindly  to  this,  it  should  be  caressed,  handled  and  given  a  little  sugar: 
thus  given  to  understand  that  it  is  not  to  be  hurt,  but  that  it  must  stay 
in  whatever  position  it  is  placed  in  comfort.  But  at  each  efifort  to  get 
up,  the  head  must  be  pulled  to  the  side  and  well  back  towards  the  flank, 
which  will  soon  demonstrate  to  the  colt  (if  the  tutor  has  not  been  care- 
less) that  it  is  in  comparatively  a  helpless  condition  and  still  treated 
kindly,  which  soon  makes  the  work  of  handling  or  doing  anything  about 
it  easy,  and  if  no  mistakes  are  made  it  is  astonishing  how  soon  it  realizes 
its  helpless  condition,  and  is  a  perfectly  willing  subject  to  whatever  is 
desired. 

The  main  object  in  laying  the  colt  down  is  to  demonstrate  to  it  that 
the  tutor  is  stronger  than  it,  and  that  in  its  prostrate  condition  it  can- 


APPENDIX.  239 

not   get   away    from  objects   whicli   it   would    struggle  to  accomplish    if 
upon  its  feet. 

As  soon  as  the  colt  is  satisfied  with  its  humble  position  is  a  good 
time  to  bring  the  umbrella,  robe,  tin  pans  or  other  objects  of  fright  s( 
that  it  can  become  acquainted  with  them  by  examination  with  the 
nose,  the  touch  on  all  parts  of  the  body,  noise,  etc.,  but  all  this  must 
be  done  with  the  utmost  caution  to  avoid  frightening  or  hurting  the 
colt.  Every  movement  must  be  made  quietly,  canefully  and  never 
quickly. 

The  colt  must  learn  everything  from  experience,  much  as  we  do, 
and  if  it  is  in  a  comparatively  helpless  condition  it  will  learn  milch 
more  rapidly  what  is  desired  than  if  it  is  on  its  feet  and  can  struggle 
more  or  less  with  some  show  of  escape.     After  the  colt  has  examined 


n 

S^-o* 

iSKSKP^S^ff^B^    *^*    ^j^%S^          •  *•  'vr! 

P 

1 

|Ofe,.'':lfP'***.'^*.-    ■ 

1 

■■HHIriiH 

M 

I^^^^^^B 

Pig  12.    Betsy,  at  three  months  old,  with  an  interval  of  two  month.s  since  see- 
ing her  instructor.    It  is  plain  to  be  seen  that  she  has  not  forgotten 
her  former  handling  nor  lost  confidence  in  her  teacher. 

the  objects  that  are  brought  to  it,  has  smelled,  touched  with  its  nose 
(its  fingers),  seen,  heard  the  sounds  and  felt  touches  of  it  all  over  its 
body  while  down,  it  has  nothing  to  fear  when  up  on  its  feet,  and  con- 
sequently does  not  try  to  get  away  from  what  would  otherwise  be  the 
means  of  spoiling  the  colt. 

When  it  once  understands  that  these  things  are  harmless,  it  cares- 
nothing  for  them.  Once  well  learned  nothing  further  is  to  be  feared^ 
But,  after  mistakes  have  been  made,  oh,  how  different!  Care,  perse- 
verance and  patience  may  win,  but  the  chances  are  of  too  great  a 
risk  to  warrant  any  other  course  than  the  very  best  from  every  con- 
sideration. We  must  ever  recollect  that  the  colt  never,  never  forgets 
anything,  let  it  be  for  good  or  evil,  therefore  we  should  avoid  anything 
and  everything  that  can  in  any  way  contribute  to  the  dangerous  side 
of  the  colt's  education.     The  great  value  in  laying  it  down  is  to  have 


240  HORSE   SENSE. 

absolute    control    without   a   possible  chance    of   the   colt   getting  away 
from  objects  of  fright  before  it  is  well  acquainted  with   them. 

TEACH  THE  COLT  USEFUL  LESSONS  ONLY. 

Because  the  young  colt  is  so  susceptible  to  training  is  no  reason  that 
it  should  be  taught  a  lot  of  things  that  are  of  no  practical  use;  or,  be- 
cause it  is  bright  and  full  of  play,  that  it  must  be  frightened  to  see  it 
run,  teach  it  tricks  or  allow  it  to  become  mischievous,  and  bite,  rear, 
kick  or  anything  else  that  may  seen  "cute"  while  it  is  very  youncr:  but 
these  very  things  later  on  may  become  a  great  annoyance  and  very 
hard  to  overcome. 

The  "Cosset"  colt  is  generally  looked  upon  as  a  worthless  animal, 
but  this  is  true  only  on  the  basis  that  the  "Cosset"  has  always  been 
allowed  to  have  its  own  way  and  it  pleases  to  be  into  more  or  less 
mischief,  lawless  or  "sulky."  From  this  fact  alone  the  colt  should  be 
taught  useful  lessons,  those  only  that  will  enable  the  colt  to  become  a 
better  and  more  useful  animal  during  mature  life.  It  should  be  taught 
to  be  handled  from  every  point  of  approach  without  resistance.  Teach 
it  the  importance  of  that  greatest  word  in  horsemanship,  whoa — mean- 
ing stop  and  stand  still  until  commanded  to  move.  Teach  it  to  back 
at  the  word,  start  whenever  commanded  to  move  forward,  etc.,  etc.  It 
should  be  strongly  impressed  that  its  tutor  is  its  protector  under  all 
circumstances,  and  whenever  any  object  of  fright  is  presented  it  must 
be  encouraged  to  march  up  to  it  or  the  object  brought  to  the  colt 
and  an  opportunity  given  for  an  examination  of  the  apparent  frightful 
thing,  with  every  confidence  that  it  will  be  protected  from  all  harm. 
Whenever  the  colt  associates  with  the  things  of  fright  more  or  less  pun- 
ishment, then  the  two  can  never  be  completely  separated.  When  the 
object  is  seen  the  punishment  is  practically  felt,  and  the  animal  is  very 
sure  to  act  in  anything  but  a  satisfactory  manner. 

A  CHOICE  VOCABULARY  FOR  THE  COLT. 

While  we  all  recognize  that  the  horse  is  mute  (cannot  talk)  it  must 
not  be  forgotten  that  his  sight  and  hearing  are  remarkably  good,  gen- 
erally.    We   must  remember — and   never   forget   for  one   moment — that 
words  used  in  association  with  actions  will  very  soon  become  fixtures 
with   the    horse    and    can    be    relied    on     without     other     means.       For 
instance,  when  the  young  horse  is  asked  to  move  forward  bv  a  "chir- 
rup" or  the  word  "start,"  and  he   is  touched  at  the   rear  end  of  the 
body  at   the   same   time,   he   promptly   moves   ahead,    and    if    this    is 
repeated  a  number  of  times  he  needs  only  to  be  told  to  "start"  and 
he  obeys.     A  vocabulary  of  ten   words,   all  of  which    can    be    taught 
the  horse  in  ten  days,  will  enable  the  cool-headed  horseman  to  derive 
as  many  distinct  movements  of  the  horse  by  the  use  of  specific  words 
for  the  purpose  only.     The  reader  will  naturally  say  this  is  a  strong  state- 
ment; so  it  is  and  only  applies  to  a  level-headed  colt  and  a  well  behaved 
horseman  with  a  proper  education;  not  a  horseman  in  the  sense  of  bois- 
terous gesticulation,  spur,  harsh  bit  and  whip  treatment  in  the  usual  man- 


APPENDIX.  241 

ner,  but  one  who  understands  the  natural  laws  governing  animal  life  and 
the  movements  of  horses  generally,  their  peculiar  traits  of  character,  and 
is  in  harmonious  association  with  them,  one  who  loves  horses  and  who  the 
horses  take  kindly  to  and  loves  to  obey  without  fear  of  punishment.  i 

Hundreds  of  instances  can  be  cited  showing  the  intelligence  of  horses 
and  their  ability  to  comprehend  through  the  use  of  words  alone  the  directed 
duties  to  be  performed,  which  have  been  taught  and  thoroughly  understood 
through  practical,  demonstrated  lessons  with  words  and  associated  actions 
in  contradistinction  to  the  too  generally  and  apparently  too  willingly  ac- 
cepted idea  that  the  horse  is  but  a  mere  brute,  without  sense  or  feeling,  to 
be  used  as  the  most  degraded,  menial  servant,  with  only  abuse  and  punish- 
ment, to  the  gratification  and  sometimes  delight  of  the  self-boasted  "hoss- 
man,"  who  often  knows  less — devoid  of  sentiment  or  sympathy — than  the 
humiliated  animal  that  submits  to  his  inhuman  treatment,  and  under  such 
circumstances  it  would  be  only  fair,  if  it  were  possible,  to  harness  the  man- 
brute  and  give  the  humane-horse  a  chance  to  demonstrate  his  higher  order 
of  development. 

SPECIFIC  WORDS  FOR  DEFINITE  ACTIONS. 

For  the  very  best  results  there  should  be  a  general  adoption  of  specific 
words  for  definite  actions  all  over  the  land,  and  whenever  this  becomes  a 
fixture  in  horse  education  by  universal  adoption,  then  we  can  buy,  sell  and 
exchange  horses  with  benefit  to  ourselves  and  some  satisfaction  to  the 
horses  themselves  in  many  cases.  If  everybody  would  use  the  same  vo- 
cabulary in  the  handling  of  their  horses  then  the  horses  would  understand 
the  meaning  of  the  words  used  and  conduct  themselves  accordingly  with- 
out any  fear  of  punishment  for  failure  to  understand  a  command.  But 
just  as  long  as  every  horseman  has  a  way  of  his  own  (and  no  two  alike) 
what  can  we  expect  in  the  actions  of  our  horses?  Is  it  not  plain  that  a 
horse  may  be  very  valuable  in  one  man's  hands  and  comparatively  worthless 
in  that  of  another,  simply  because  he  understands  what  to  do  in  one  case 
and  knows  nothing  in  the  other  but  confusion,  fear  and  punishment  And 
right  here  is  where  the  troubles  ensue  in  trading  horses  generally — both 
parties  may  be  benefited  or  beaten,  or  one  the  gainer  and  the  other  worsted 

A  TEN   WORD   HORSE  VOCABULARY. 

After  years  of  study  and  experiment  the  writer  has  adopted  the  follow- 
ing: 

Already. — To  let  the  horse  know  that  a  command  is  about  to  be  given. 

Start. — For  a  forward  movement,  modified  in  tone  for  prompt  or  delib- 
erate action. 

Hurry. — For  increased  movement  in  gait,  used  in  modulation  or  em- 
phasis, as  may  be  required 

Faster. — When  the  gait  is  to  be  increased,  also  with  modulation  of 
voice,  rapid  repetition,  emphasis  or  slight  touches  of  the  whip. 

Steady. — Is  to  be  used  as  a  governor  to  maintain  the  speed  attained  and 
satisfy  the  horse  that  he  is  doing  just  right. 


242  HORSE   SENSE. 

Slacken. — Indicates  what  is  wanted  and  tone  of  voice  for  degree  of  mod- 
ification of  speed  for  special  character  of  animal. 

Whoa. — Is  the  most  important  word  in  the  whole  catalogue,  and 
should  never  be  spoken  except  for  an  immediate  stop  to  a  positive  stand- 
still, and  the  horse  should  understand  that  he  is  to  remain  stationary 
until  notified  that  another  order  is  about  to  be  given  by  Already. 

Back. — Is  next  in  importance,  and  the  horse  should  fully  understand 
just  what  this  command  actually  means.  One  driver  will  use  the  word 
"whoa-back,"  another  "backup,"  and  a  third  says  nothing,  but  pulls  on  the 
lines  hard  enough  to  split  the  horse's  mouth,  and  if  the  horse  goes  back 
too  rapidly  he  will  apply  the  whip  vigorously  at  the  rear  end  of  the  ani- 
mal, which  virtually  puts  him  between  two  fires — front  and  rear — con- 
fuses or  so  excites  him  that  it  is  hard  to  tell  what  will  happen  next. 

Right. — Is  just  as  good  as  "gee"  (of  our  forefathers),  and  the  horse 
soon  comprehends  what  is  wanted  through  the  same  single  line  or  other- 
wise. 

Left. — Can  take  the  place  of  "haw"  (of  our  ancesters),  and  the  line 
or  lines  used  just  as  they  did  or  otherwise  to  have  the  horse  understand. 
These  words,  "haw"  and  "gee,"  in  connection  with  the  one-line  sys- 
tem of  the  South,  demonstrates  what  can  be  done  in  the  way  of  educat- 
ing horses  to  comply  with  commands  of  these  words,  "haw"  and  "gee;" 
by  association  of  a  pull  on  the  line  and  the  word  "haw"  the  horse 
promptly  turns  to  the  left,  and  by  a  slight  jerk  of  the  line  in  connection 
with  the  word  "gee,"  the  horse  as  readily  turns  to  the  right.  A  good, 
intelligent  line  or  lead  horse  will  soon  acquire  a  knowledge  of  what  is 
needed  of  him  so  that  the  driver,  who  usually  rides  the  left  wheel  horse 
of  the  four,  six  or  eight-horse  team,  can  walk  beside  the  team,  behind 
the  wagon  or  ride  and  drive  by  the  commands  of  word  alone. 

By  a  careful  study  of  this  vocabulary  it  will  be  seen  that  the  words  are 
simple,  and  there  is  no  good  reason  why  this  or  some  better  system  does 
not  deserve  adoption  by  everybody  to  save  trouble,  confusion  and  mis- 
understanding of  men  and  horses. 

CONFUSION  MUST  BE  AVOIDED. 

Whatever  is  done  with  horses  to  the  best  advantage  must  be  done 
coollv,  deliberately,  confidingly  and  with  kindness  for  best  results.  When- 
ever the  horse  becomes  confused  and  excited  he  seemingly  "loses  his 
head,"  which  is  then  very  liable  to  lead  to  dangerous  results;  but  just 
as  long  as  he  and  his  driver  are  on  peaceable  terms  and  understand  each 
other  perfectly,  there  is  comparatively  little  danger  even  with  the  high- 
est order  of  nervous  development.  As  long  as  the  horse  understand  that 
he  is  not  to  be  hurt,  and  that  directions  will  come  in  an  intelligent  man- 
ner he  can  be  relied  on,  but  just  as  soon  as  he  loses  confidence  in  his 
driver  he  seems  to  take  the  responsibility  of  the  situation  upon  himself, 
and  then  destruction  too  generally  follows. 

The  theory  practiced  by  the  majority  of  the  (would  be)  horsemen 
is  to  force  the  animal  to  do  their  bidding,  whether  the  horse  understands 


APPENDIX.  243 

what  it  is  or  not.  But  neither  men  nor  horses  can  execute  any  order 
well  without  understanding  just  how  to  perform  the  duty,  and  this  is 
acquired  by  cool,  delilierate,  careful  and  kind  explanation  without  fear 
of  punishment.  Well  behaved  horses  are  the  results  of  kind,  careful 
handling,  but  dangerous  horses  are  made  so  .by  fright  and  fight  by  those 
who  have  undertaken  their  training.  Many  of  our  very  best  and  safest 
horses  under  similar  treatment  can  be  made  dangerous  animals  in  an  . 
incredibly  short  time  in  the  hands  of  an  abusive,  inhuman,  cruel,  horse-  / 
breaking  crank. 

MAKE  HORSE  TEACHING  LESSONS  SHORT. 

The  education  of  horses,  like  that  of  children,  should  be  confined  to 
short  lessons  of  real  practical  value.  It  is  best  to  do  the  work  in  a  short, 
exact  manner  in  the  same  way  every  day.  Take  up  one  thing  at  a 
time  and  be  sure  the  colt  fully  understands  that  lesson  before  undertak- 
ing another,  and  it  is  good  practice,  as  advancement  is  made,  to  keep 
the  several  lessons  in  the  most  useful  order  and  always  repeat  each  in 
the  order  taught,  when  the  colt  can  be  depended  on  to  go  through  the 
list  in  the  order  of  advancement  without  a  break.  But  if  the  work  of 
education  has  been  done  in  a  haphazard  manner,  then  it  is  not  certain 
just  what  can  be  depended  on. 

NO  SUDDEN  MOVEMENTS. 

As  horses  are  naturally  timid  and  sensitive,  it  is  important  that  no 
sudden  movements  be  made  in  approaching  the  colt,  as  these  will  tend 
to  make  it  start  and  jump  away,  through  which  it  will  soon  learn  that 
it  can  avoid  being  caught,  and  thereafter  be  inclined  to  move  away  from 
instead  of  towards  its  tutor,  a  thing  to  be  very  much  regretted. 

If  the  handler  of  the  colt  will  always  go  to  it  in  a  very  quiet  manner, 
never  seeming  to  care  whether  it  gets  away  or  not,  and  never  makes  a 
quick  movement  to  catch  the  colt,  but  be  sure  of  success  when  attempted, 
and  always  be  prepared  to  catch  it  at  both  ends  at  the  same  time  with 
one  hand  under  the  neck  and  the  other  under  the  hams,  then  you  are 
sure  of  success. 

NEVER  FRIGHTEN   THE   COLT. 

Too  many  persons,  thoughtlessly,  will  try  to  make  the  young  colt 
show  off  by  doing  something  to  startle  it — make  it  run,  etc. — which  is 
all  wrong  if  the  colt  is  to  be  made  a  safe  and  reliable  animal  for  the 
future ;  or  it  should  at  least  be  deferred  until  the  colt  fully  understands 
just  what  is  wanted  in  many  other  respects,  which  cannot  be  attained 
until  it  has  had  quite  an  experience  in  the  exhibition  business. 

USE  AND  ABUSE  OF  THE  WHIP. 

That  the  whip  has  a  place  in  legitimate  horsemanship  there  is  no  ques- 
tion, but  there  is  probably  no  other  one  thing  in  connection  with  horse 
education  (especially  the  colt)  where  the  application  of  the  whip  is  oftener 
out    of   place   than   all    others   put  together.     The    use   of  the    whip  is  to 


244  HORSE   SENSE. 

encourage  the  colt  to  move  forwards  promptly  when  that  command  is 
given,  but  it  must  not  be  forgotten  that  the  application  of  the  whip 
should  be  at  the  rear  end  and  always  in  association  with  the  word  start! 
yet  never  before  the  command  is  given  for  the  forward  movement,  but 
so  quickly  after  the  word  is  spoken  that  the  colt  readily  understands 
what  is  wanted.  These  two  (the  word  and  blow)  must  succeed  each 
other  so  closely  that  the  colt  cannot  help  feeling  that  when  the  word 
is  spoken  that  the  whip  is  right  after  it,  and  to  avoid  the  pain  of  the  whip 
it  acts  so  promptly  that  the  punishment  is  avoided,  and  it  learns  this,  too, 
so  there  is  no  further  use  of  the  whip  with  the  ambitious  horse ;  the  word 
is  sufficient,  and  it  would  be  doing  a  great  injustice  to  use  the  whip 
on  the  horse  that  is  trying  to  do  all  that  should  be  required.  One 
sharp  cut  with  the  whip  is  far  better  than  any  number  of  strokes  fol- 
lowing; in  fact,  no  one  should  ever  be  permitted  to  whip  a  colt  into 
(what  is  erroneously  termed)  submission.  This  term  is  a  misnomer  as 
applied  to  colt  education  and  should  not  be  tolerated  under  any  circum- 
stances. Such  a  thing  as  a  fight  between  a  man  and  his  horse  is  alto- 
gether wrong  and  no  good  can  come  of  it ;  but,  on  the  contrary,  bad 
habits  are  almost  sure  to  follow,  bad  feelings  engendered  that  cannot  be 
eradicated,  and  possibly  tricks  learned  by  the  horse  that  the  best  of  han- 
dlers cannot  overcome. 

NEVER  WHIP  AND  JERK  AT  THE  SAME  TIME. 

Whenever  the  whip  is  applied  to  the  rear  part  of  the  colt's  body  the 
greatest  care  must  be  exercised  not  to  suddenly  restrain  the  forward 
movement  by  the  lines  in  a  jerk  at  the  head,  and  more  especially  if  a 
bit  is  used  in  the  young,  sensitive  mouth,  or  great  mischief  may  be  done. 
Great  pains  must  be  taken  on  the  part  of  the  trainer  whenever  the  colt 
is  to  be  suddenly  stopped,  as,  for  instance,  following  the  word  whoa  I 
that  it  is  never  attempted  immediately  after  a  stroke  of  the  whip.  When- 
ever the  colt  is  struck  with  the  whip  for  a  forward  movement  then  it 
should  not  be  punished  in  the  mouth  by  a  "yank"  at  the  bit.  The  coif 
is  almost  certain  to  feel  that  it  is  between  two  enemies — rear  and  front — 
and  any  one  can  reason  out  the  natural  and  logical  conclusions.  Some 
desperate  act  on  the  colt's  part  is  very  likely  to  follow.  If  we  must  strike 
the  colt  with  the  whip,  let  us  be  sure  to  not  restrain  it  by  the  lines,  but 
permit  it  to  go  forward — fast  or  slow — as  it  decides  the  matter  from 
the  effect  made  on  its  body.  But  if  we  expect  a  well-behaved  colt  we 
must  do  as  little  with  the  whip  as  possible  to  get  the  colt  to  go. 

MUTUAL  UNDERSTANDING. 

It  is  equally  important  that  the  trainer  and  the  colt  are  mutual  friends 
and  have  a  perfect  understanding  like  when  the  teacher  of  the  school 
and  the  pupils  mutually  understand  each  other  for  harmony  and  advance- 
ment in  their  education.  But  just  as  soon  as  it  is  discovered  that  this 
good  feeling  and  friendship  is  lost  is  the  right  time  to  stop  and  let  some- 
one else  try  it  who  knows  better  how  it  should  be  done.  Never  make 
the    lessons    of  long   duration.     Never   try  to    force   the  colt    to    do  what 


APPENDIX.  245 

it  fails  to  understand,  and  as  soon  as  weariness  is  manifest  any  further 
work  must  be  postponed  until  another  day.  Frequent  short  lessons  are 
generally  enjoyed  by  the  colt,  and,  if  they  are  given  in  regular  order 
every  day,  step  by  step,  the  colt  soon  learns  to  like  both  the  work  and  its 
teacher. 

In  summing  up  this  whole  matter  it  is  unnecessary  to  say  more  than 
this:  That  if  the  foregoing  instructions  are  carefully  followed  the  writer 
has  great  confidence  in  the  results  with  both  teacher  and  his  pupils. 

In  reviewing  this  subject  the  reader  will  please  bear  in  mind  that  the 
author  is  not  trying  to  force  any  special  theories  upon  the  public,  but 
only  very  anxious  to  relieve  the  horse  of  much  of  his  suffering,  but,  by 
giving  through  this  medium  his  experience  and  observations,  intelli- 
gence and  wonderful  memory  of  the  very  large  majority  of  our  horses, 
as  well  as  making  the  horse  much  more  valuable  to  his  owner  by  edu- 
cation, care  and  treatment,  he  hopes  to  get  the  reader  to  looking  at  this 
whole  matter  just  as  we  find  it  in  nature,  and  not  on  the  basis  of  punish- 
ment. 

In  recapitulating,  the  reader's  attention  is  called  to  the  early  beginning 
of  the  colt's  education  and  the  importance  of  the  instructor  thoroughly 
understanding  the  colt's  nature  throughout,  as  well  as  just  how  to  proceed 
step  by  step  for  a  complete  education  without  any  danger  of  failure  in 
making  a  safe,  reliable  and  trustworthy,  mature  horse  for  the  duties  to 
which  he  is  best  adapted. 

The  means  and  methods  here  referred  to  are  only  suggestive  to  the 
reader,  and   if  any  one  has  a  better  and  more  comprehensive   system  in 
conformity  with   the   natural  laws  of  animal   life,   it  should   not  be   held 
back,  but  set  forth  in  the  interest  of  men  and  horses, 
of  the  neck  from  top  to  bottom. 


"HORSE    SENSE" 

HAME  AND  HAME  TUG 


CO 


(i 


HORSE  SENSE"— Common  Sense  Scientific  Combination. 


This  radical  improvement  in  Hame  and  Tug  construction  is  tlie  invention  of  Dr 
J.  C.  Curryer,  and  is  ttie  result  of  several  years  of  study  and  experimenting. 

This  new  method  of  draft  upon  tho  shouldei-s  Is  just  as  the  horse  would  have  it  if 
he  could,  as  it  is  constructed  on  scientitic  principles  to  insure  comfort  and  prevent 
injury  to  the  shoulders  of  our  hard-working  horses.  It  obviates  the  necessity 
of  sweat-pads,  greatly  diminishes  the  liability  of  producing  sweeny,  collar  boils, 
galled  shoulders  and  sore  necks.  The  collar  is  prevented  from  spreading  or  pulling 
away  from  the  neck,  or  moving  about  on  the  shoulders  as  the  horse  walks  in  his 
work.  And  the  collar-bearing  is  evenly  distributed  over  the  entire  shoulder,  as  the 
draft  is  directly  backward,  which  suggested  its  name,  "Horse  Sense." 

«The  principle  of  raising  and  lowering  the  draft  on  the  shoulders  Is  another  com- 
mon sense  as  well  as  "Horse  Sense"  method  to  meet  the  difference  in  horse  shoulders 
and  the  many  kinds  of  work  they  have  to  do.  If  the  collar  is  too  long  (as  is  often  the 
case)  the  draft  can  be  raised  to  the  required  point  and  the  horse  is  at  once  relieved 
from  working  with  too  low  a  draft.    If  it  is  too  high  it  can  be  lowered  just  as  easily. 

Our  horses  do  all  their  heavy  harness  work  from  the  shoulders,  and  the  best  fl't- 
tings  with  the  least  movement  on  the  shoulders  (like  carrying  anything  on  our 
shoulders)  will  greatly  relieve  the  horse  from  suffering  and  be  a  decided  benefit  to  his 
owner— insuring  the  work  being  done  with  less  fretting  and  chafing,  with  little  pros- 
pect of  balking  when  not  overloaded  and  properly  driven. 

The  plates  H  and  I  (as  seen  in  both  figs.  1  and  2)  are  made  to  change  the  shape  of 
the  collar  for  a  better  adaptation  or  fitting  of  the  collar  to  the  neck  of  the  horse. 
Plate  H  will  change  the  usually  straight  hame  into  a  more  circular  form  which  will 
better  fit  the  thick  or  "stag  necked"  horse  through  its  central  portion,  as  seen  in  fig. 
2,  while  the  plate  I,  on  the  straight  hame,  will  force  the  collar  to  the  depression  in 
the  sides  of  the  thin-necked  horse,  as  seen  in  fig.  1.  These  plates  fill  a  long-felt  want 
and  will  last  a  life-time,  and  considering  the  advantage  to  the  horse  which  needs 
neither,  their  cost  is  simply  trifling. 

BENEFITS  SUMMED  UP 1st— Better  fitting  collar.    2d— Saving  the  expense 

of  sweating-pads.  M— No  wearing  of  the  collar  or  drawing  it  out  of  shape  by  the 
hame-tug  pulling  hard  into  it.  4th— Direct  backward  draft  instead  of  the  usual  ro- 
tary pressure  on  the  horse's  shoulders,  by  its  extreme  outside  bearing,  as  usually 
done.  .5th— Raising  or  lowering  the  draft  with  a  range  of  two  inches,  at  every  third 
of  an  inch,  to  accommodate  the  draft  to  different  shaped  shoulders  and  the  work  to 
be  done,  which  can  be  done  easily  and  quickly.  6th— Saving  the  irritability  of  horses 
from  sore  necks,  painful  pressure  of  the  collar  on  sore  shoulders,  sweeny  and  should- 
er lameness  in  many  cases,  as  well  as  doing  ranch  towards  insuring  trtie  pullers  in- 
stead of  making  balkers.  7th— Best  of  all  that  th.'se  improvements  should  cost  but 
little  more  than  supplying  the  same  part-  f'l  w  with  Lrood  material)  to  the  harness 
now  in  use.    Address  "HORSE  SENSE'"  tuG  CO., 

.217  296  Selby   ^ve.,  ST.   PAUL,  MINN. 


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